mlammert

Thanks Buffalo,

Glad to hear you agree with my assessments. I might just recheck a few things before contacting Crutchfield again.

I wonder if there is some service code or diagnostic screen in the D3 that would confirm a faulty IP-Bus system?

I bought the Crutchfield extended warranty on the D3 so that makes me happy.

Thanks again for everything!

Mark

Hey Buffalo,

Thanks for the feedback.

Yes, I installed everything myself.

Well, when I got home from work I took the dash apart and started playing around; here is what I found:

1) Tested the voltage at the BT unit with my multimeter. 12.XX with the car off.

2) Tested the voltage at the disk changer with my multimeter. 12.XX with the car off.

3) Re-seated all IP-Bus connectors. Still dimmed icons on the D3.

4) Removed the BT unit completely and plugged the disk changer directly into the D3. Still dimmed icons on the D3.

5) Swapped IP-Bus cables. I used the IP-Bus cable originally from the BT unit to plug disk changer directly into the D3. Still dimmed icons on the D3.

6) Removed the disk changer completely and just plugged the BT into the D3. Still dimmed icons on the D3.

So, what do you guys think? Any other testing I can do?

To me it is looking more and more like a faulty D3.

Any other thoughts?

Thanks everyone!

Mark

Hi all,

Over the weekend all devices connected to my IP-Bus all of a sudden stopped working.

Little bit of history:

1) Couple of months ago my 12-disk changer would be seen by my D3 but no matter how many disks were in it it would always say zero disks. This happened 90% of the time. I have read that the changers shoot craps after about a year so I chalked it up to being a POS.

2) Couple weeks ago my cell phone would intermittently stop connecting to my Bluetooth unit. My phone's battery was super old so I figured maybe the phone was dropping the connection due to excessively low battery juice. It "seemed" to stop doing this so I figured problem solved. Maybe not.

3) Last weekend the phone would not connect at all and when I looked at the D3's screen the 12-disk changer icon, the Bluetooth phone icon and the Bluetooth audio icon were all dimmed and unavailable.

The IP-Bus goes from the D3 to the BT module and then goes to the 12-Disk changer.

I installed everything myself so I am pretty confident in the install. But, by no means am I an expert or perfect.

Would anyone mind helping me troubleshoot this?

Pioneer's tech support was useless. They told me maybe the constant power to the BT and the disk changer came loose. Yes, that is obviously possible. But, both at the same time. I don't know. Also, wouldn't the changer still be seen even if power to the BT module was gone? Oddly, Pioneer tech support couldn't answer this.

Bad IP-Bus cable? Crimp? Short? Etc?

Luckily I got the 3-year warranty on the D3 from Crutchfield and it still has 6 months on it. So, if the D3 is the culprit I can get that fixed relatively cheap.

But, I need to troubleshoot the other stuff first to see before I yank it out and send it off for a repair that it may or may not really need.

If anybody has any suggestions or have had a similar issue before or has any in-depth knowledge of the IP-Bus, I would greatly apprecaite any advice/support.

Thank you very much guys!

Mark

I have had my D3 installed for a couple years now and since the beginning I have been using the Pioneer 12-Disk changer...

The 12-disk changer has been working flawlessly until now...

As of recent, when I go to use the changer, I navigate to the M-CD option in the D3 menu, I go into that option but it just says "No Disk"...

Being able to go into the M-CD option lend me to believe that the D3 is indeed seeing the 12-disk changer...

The 12-disk cartridge is full...

When I eject the cartridge to add new CDs into it, it ejects fine...

When I load the cartridge I can hear it cycling through the CDs verifying where the CDs are loaded...

As I said though, when I go through the D3 it says "No Disk" 85% of the time... Sometimes it will work... And, sometimes it will not...

I just think it is odd that (a) the D3 sees the changer ( the changer properly cycles through the disk but © the D3 doesn't recognize that the cartridge has disks in it...

Any ideas???

Thanks guys,

Mark

Thanks for the feedback, guys...

I will try and snap a photo using my phone the next time it does it...

Thanks,

Mark

Hi all,

I have had my D3 installed for several months now and every once in a while the screen will be very very dim (sometimes reddish in color)... It powers on when I turn the car on and the screen is very dim... Then, a little while after driving it pop back to full brightness...

This is NOT an illumination issue... The day/night mode is correct... This is the actual screen be very dim/reddish in color... Almost unreadable...

I have a feeling that it is a temperature issue... It has recently gotten very cold here and it seems to be dim when I turn the car on for the first time in the morning and then pop back to full brightness once it warms up...

I am not for sure if it is a temperature thing or not... That is just my best guess... It does not do it all the time... Just sometimes... But, when it does do it, it always eventually pops to full brightness after a while...

Just wondering if anybody else has had the dim/reddish issue??? Or, maybe if any tech guys have heard anything from Pioneer on this???

Thanks,

Mark

Can't answer the video output question...

However, the answer to the XDV-P6 is "sort of" and "no"...

The XDV-P6 uses the IP-Bus and the AV-Bus in order to 100% control the XDV-P6 from a Pioneer head unit...

If you want to control every aspect of the XDV-P6 from the D3, then the answer is NO because the D3 does NOT have an AV-Bus...

However, you can use the XDV-P6 in "standalone" mode and plug it into the AUX video of the D3 and use it that way... This requires you to use the XDV-P6's remote control to control the XDV-P6 and manually switch your D3 to one of the AUX inputs whenever you want to watch a DVD from the XDV-P6...

I looked into this long and hard when I first bought the D3...

For me it was not worth it...

I ended up buying a 12-disk audio CD changer and love it...

In the rare case that one of my passengers wants to watch a DVD, I just eject the NAV disk and put in the DVD...

The D3 handles "storing" the NAV info in memory quite well while watching the DVD...

If you have a video-capable iPod, then you have that option as well for watching video... This works quite well, as well...

Good luck,

Mark

I would try and speak to some local dealer about the functionality of the unit before you buy it...

Reason I say that, is Pioneer has a six disk DVD changer but it uses the IP-Bus and the AV-Bus... So, it is "incompatible" with the D3... The D3 only has the IP-Bus and not the AV-Bus...

So, my initial concern would be, you will have to hook this DVD player up to the IP-Bus and to one of your AUX video inputs to view movies...

1) Will the IP-Bus control tell the D3 to auto switch to the AUX video when you play a DVD???

2) Will the IP-Bus control DVDs and CDs or just CDs???

3) Right now you get 4-speaker surround sound from the D3 when you play a DVD in it... Will you get the same from the audio coming through the DVD player's IP-Bus or does the IP-Bus only handle L/R audio???

4) More and more questions...

If you can talk to someone or get a copy of the manual and get some of these questions answered, it might be worth looking into...

True, it is low cost and from a third-party company, so yes, buyer beware... But, I have bought crap from Apple and HP and Dell before too...

Personally, I'd drop $300 on it if I could get acceptable answers to the above questions... But, that is just me...

Good luck,

Mark

Hi all,

I have had my PAC SWI-PS and D3 installed for about 3-4 months now without problem...

However, just recently I have been noticing some odd behavior with the steering wheel controls...

My 03 Lincoln Aviator has VOL UP and DOWN, TRACK FORWARD, and SOURCE button on the steering wheel...

Recently, the VOL UP and DOWN will not work... TRACK FORWARD and MEDIA work but not VOL...

Or, sometimes I will press TRACK FORWARD and the D3 will "beep" as if it recognizes a button has been pressed but nothing will happen...

Or, sometimes I will press TRACK FORWARD and the D3 will FAST FORWARD through the song instead of advancing to the next song...

Any ideas???

I am kind of ruling out a loose wire since it seems to always have power and some form of control over the head unit...

Sounds like I might just have to re-program the PAC SWI-PS...

But, wanted to get opinions first and maybe if someone knows why this happens or if this is a common thing or a faulty unit...

Thanks,

Mark

lol wait ? you cant use the phone and bluetooth while driving if its not bypassed ? wtf

Yeah, I have had a bypassed unit since the day I installed it... When I read this I couldn't believe it...

I mean, isn't that the point of hands-free calling???

I understand the reasoning, but it still seems odd...

Mark

I used this in my 03 Aviator...

http://www.sminntech.com/techai.html

The "creator" of this is a moderator in the Z1/2 forum of this board...

I built it based on his specs, but I think you might be able to buy one from him as well...

I love my 03 Aviator and the D3 is awesome in it...

Good luck,

Mark

Well, I am not an audio expert/installer...

The last thing you could try is seeing if there is a phase switch or reversing the phase of the tweeters...

Just a guess... I have no clue if that will help...

I still however think that this is a speaker/crossover issue and not a D3 issue... But, again, I am no expert...

Anybody else have any other ideas???

Good luck,

Mark

I don't know if it will help, but yes, I would definitely try a lower attenuation setting and see if that helps at all...

Good luck,

Mark

My problem is that the high frequency/tweets are like sandblasting my eardrums! Like really raspy at times... and not at ridiculous volumes or anything.

Well, like a couple other people said the D3 is a parametric EQ not a graphical EQ...

Parametric EQ's have different "bands" of frequencies they affect... I believe the D3 has three bands...

So, as you shift say the middle band, it will affect the low and high band as well since they are all "connected" so to speak...

You might just try turning down the gains on your amp that is powering the front speakers...

Or, try messing with the crossover settings in the D3 and in the amp if it is setup that way...

If it sounds "raspy" I can't imagine EQing helping out that much... I could be wrong though... EQing is a bandiad for something like that, IMHO... Not a true fix...

See if the MBQ crossovers have attenuation switches or something...

Good luck,

Mark

Check your system/hardware status screen... See what it says for reverse when you are actually in reverse and when you are not...

Sounds as if your system thinks the vehicle is always in reverse...

When I connected my reverse camera, I connected the power wire to a switched source and I connected the ground to ground... Then, I connected the D3's reverse wire to my rear taillight power wire...

To me it sounds like your D3 reverse wire is connected to something that is constantly getting 12v...

Good luck,

Mark

Okay, that makes sense...

So, I guess if all the air is moving either correctly or not, then you would get major altercations to the quality and perception of the sound...

So, another question, why does it seem this phase option is only available on sub amps and sub pre-outs???

Is this more of an issue with the nature of subwoofers as compared to other mid/high speakers???

Thanks for all the info,

Mark

Hi all,

I have a couple questions regarding the setup of the subwoofer...

Primarily, what exactly does the "phase" normal and reverse do to the sub???

I have a factory 8" sub and it works fine with the D3...

However, when I originally installed everything I had subwoofer set to "normal"...

The sub sounded overly loud and boomy and the sound stage of the whole vehicle seemed shifted to the rear of the vehicle...

I corrected all this by adjusting all the levels and positioning and everything but it seemed like everything had to be adjusted to the extreme to sound correct...

Anyway, the other night I reset all the sound options back to factory...

This time I put the subwoofer's phase in "reverse" mode...

Now, the sub seems more level with the other music, it is much more crisp and less boomy and the sound stage has miraculously moved back to the front of the vehicle...

I now have to barely adjust the sound settings to get optimal sound...

Can anyone tell me what exactly the phase does to the subwoofer and how that affects the sound coming from the other speakers???

I can't image just reversing the phase can have such a huge affect on all the sound, but apparently it does...

Can anyone explain how this all works together???

Thanks,

Mark

Don't know about the ILL wire stuff, but the I had the same issue with my phone and the +1 coming up as "unknown"...

I went into my phone's phone book and added a 1 in front of all the numbers... Your cell phone is smart enough to only use the 1 and the area code if needed...

So, since all the numbers now are full 11-digits, now when I get an incoming call, it knows the correct caller ID info...

I actually called Pioneer about this and they said it was definitely a phone by phone issue...

This "fix" did the trick...

Good luck,

Mark

I have two phones, it will always attempt to autoconnect to the phone in spot one in the phone register menu. If I don't have that phone with me, it will autoconnect to the second. If I have both phones with me and want to connect to the phone in spot two, I have to go into the menu, press disconnect, then press direct connect and switch to phone two. Wish it would connect to both too, but a few presses of the buttons on-screen switches to others

Excellent, thanks whtcrxghst!!!

Yeah, I wish it would connect to both, but like you said, a couple of button pushes is not bad at all...

I like the fact that it will indeed auto-connect to the phone that is in there when the other is not... That is nice...

Thanks again everyone,

Mark

I have successfully paired both my Razor V3 and my wife's BlackBerry 7100t (both from T-Mobile) to our D3 via the BTB200...

Question:

1) If both phones are in the car, is there a way for the BTB200 to connect to both of them simultaneously or do you have to manually disconnect one and connect the other one???

2) If both phones are NOT in the car, can you set the BTB200 to connect to the one that is there???

I have played around with the settings and whatnot but have not made any progress regarding the above two questions...

I have read the manual and it is horrible... However, if this is in the manual and I passed it over (probably out of frustration with the manual), please let me know...

Thanks,

Mark

I see what you mean now...

However, that is not the changer... That is the D3...

Mark

The OEM Navi piece is supposedly better than the aftermarket ones in terms of fit and color match.

Actually, now that you say that, I remember reading in another thread that a person bought the factory NAVI trim from the dealer and was MUCH more satisfied than with the aftermarket trim...

Good luck,

Mark

Glad the PAC SWI-PS will work for you...

I have no clue regarding the harnesses... Maybe one of the more experienced installers on the board can help...

Good luck,

Mark

If I had to make a best estimate, probably 20-30 seconds to actually scroll through that many pages...

If you simply hold your finger down on the up/down button, the page numbers scroll pretty fast...

Then, it takes a little bit longer to actually go back/forward a few screens to find the specific playlist you are looking for...

As far as iPod video filling the screen or not, it all depends in what aspect ratio the video on the iPod was encoded at...

There was a pretty in depth thread about ratio and screen size... Try searching for "17:9" or something like that... And, yes, that is 17:9 not 16:9 you want to search for...

Good luck,

Mark

i was going to order this for my new 2007 Honda Civic EX but crutchfield says it doesnt fit in my car. Is this true?

Try actually using PAC's fit guide on their web site:

http://fitguide.installationexcellence. ... cturerId=8

Crutchfield has a bad habit of saying stuff doesn't fit when really it has nothing to do with your vehicle...

Example: I purchased a D3 (that they said fit) and I also purchased a 12-Disk CD-Changer for the D3... Crutchfield says the CD-Changer didn't fit my car... That really makes no sense since it plugs into the D3 and can be mounted virtually anywhere...

Unless the item specifically replaces a factory unit, I have found that Crutchfield defaults to "does not fit"...

Checkout the PAC web site to be certain the PAC SWI-PS works for your particular make and model and year...

Good luck,

Mark