InstallerFL2AL

Frickin' yippie!

I had the same prob with my Z2 (though not with the Z1 that it replaced, even using the same BT mod). I swapped my mic for one that I had laying around in my tool box. This was an auto EQ mic from my old radio (AVM-P7500DVD). It's a small round mic (Mento-shaped ) and so far so good.

Yes...... I had my phone working with my Z1 and everything worked great, when it was swapped for a Z2 using the same bluetooth mod. people told me that I was breaking up. Yesterday I tried a different Pioneer mic that I had laying around. This mic came with my 7500DVD for the auto EQ. It is a small round mic and people said that they couldn't tell I was using the bluetooth with using that mic.

The yellow stickers that we found were only on the master shipping cartons that the distributer gets on the pallets. The Z2 that we got from those is bypassable. The sticker is a small yellow circle, about a half inch in diameter. The older ones had the same sticker in white. The shipment we got had no yellow stickers on the individual boxes.

By the way coocho...... he may be an idiot or he may just be naive. It's good to see that you are still a jackass like always though. You must be overwhelmed at how clever you are. It's always such a joy to hear your wisdom.

Reverse : brown/yellow in pass. kick (harness to rear)

Vss: green/yellow @ the instrument cluster or @ ECM below glove box (on STI it is pin 27 of the 35 pin plug)

Almost a week now......... still working. Gyro not a problem, video hasn't shut off once. I have been watching video constantly and I drive quite a bit daily.

I had the same problem with 2 Z1s and had them both swapped under warranty. Now I am stuck with a Z2 as a replacement. When I called Pioneer tech they said that this didn't seen to be a big problem because they have not heard much about it. I knew they were full of it.

I doesn't make good sense to release the flagship Nav with no possible bypass. Sales will definately suffer. I'm sure that the bypass will come soon. Till then I'll keep using my sort-of bypass and keep my fingers crossed.

My video has been working since the day that I tried my theoretical bypass. If you always watch video, you never have to flip the switch. You only do that when you need to use the Nav. I recently moved to a new state and I will admit that last night it was a pain in the butt when I needed to use the Nav and I had to wait for it to find my location after flipping the switch. It only took about five minutes, but I guess I'm impatient. I posted instructions on how to do what I did to my Z2 under the topic "Good enough for now" Bypass. Hopefully someone figures out a true bypass (no switch and nav/vid work at the same time) soon.

I'm sure that there is a bypass for the Z2 that would seem just as easy if you only know what it is. It doesn't have anything to do with better technology. Sooner or later, Pioneer will leak the bypass (usually about 6 months after release) or they will not be able to sell these things. I know that I wouldn't have a Z2 if I hadn't gotten stuck with it as a replacement for a bad Z1. In the mean time, if you want a temp. solution, you can do what I did to have video for now. I explain it under the topic "Good enough for now" bypass. I have heard that someone is selling something similar on Ebay, but this is free and I know that it works. I have been using it everyday.

I did this exact same thing for a customer of mine also. He had a D2 and I used a couple of relays and a latching switch to make a video switcher so that he could chose which camera he was viewing through his camera input. I used a weather proof trailer harness and plug box to connect the wire for the trailer to so when he pulled the horses he could just pull out the wires and plug them in. It's a petty simple process if you have any expeience with video signals.

I don't know what was offered on Ebay. I never looked at it. This is what I figured out while tinkering. All I can say to that is that this works and it it a good solution until someone figures out a real bypass. If you don't want to use it, that is up to you. I will be watching video while you wait for something better I guess. Unlike Ebay, this is free info offered to give people an option. The only reason that you might not want to do this is because you have to cut into the antenna wire. if you do it properly, it should not be a problem. All you have to do is reconnect the wires if you don't want to use this bypass anymore.

By the way, I did not mean "battery problems" I meant to keep the relays from heating up. You can avoid using relays all together if you get a double throw toggle switch to separate both wires at once.

I have had my Z2 that I received as a replacement for a defective Z1 for 4 days and I have been watching video for 3 and a half. I used a trick that I figured out when the Z1's first came out before the bypass was available. I am not offering this as a perfect solution for the bypass problem, just as a temporary fix for watching video without an image reversed message until a real bypass is figured out. So, please don't stop working on one guys!

I recommend that only installers with some experience perform this work since some of it might be confusing to some. Once this work is performed, you will be able to watch video and use all of the nav control functions while moving when the switch is activated but, you will have to turn the switch back off to use the Nav because it will not be able to keep up with your location while bypassed. Once the switch is turned back off it should only take a moment for the Nav to figure out where you are.

First, the parking brake wire should be grounded. You will also need the Speed Sense(VSS) to be hooked up. This wire should be connected because when turning the bypass back off it will cut the time it takes to find your location in half. You also need this wire because the gyro will still block the video if you hit a strong bump at high speeds(this only happened once and I was trying to make it happen) and that wire will be needed to reset the bypass without stopping. You will need two relays and a toggle switch. The relays can be taped together and wired to work the same way using the toggle switch to provide a ground to activate both of them. The power to activate them should be from a key power wire. The first relay will be used to separate the VSS wire. The second relay will be used to separated the ground shielding (the outer layer) inside of the cable for the nav antenna. When this is done properly, the nav will no longer know the vehicle is moving once the switch is flipped. The gyro can shut down the video if the vehicle hits a severe pothole but, this happens very rarely and all you have to do to correct this is flip the switch off and then back on. This shows the nav a speed signal for a second to fool it into thinking you have stopped again.

These mods should be easy for most installers. It is very important that the center of the antenna wire not be cut or damaged! I will include some picture links to show how I did this stuff. If the end user uses video more than Nav (like me), I recommend the relays be wired as normally open. For those who use the Nav more, they should be wired as normally closed. This will prevent the relays from being constantly active. Don't forget to use key power to power the relays so that they will only work when the car is running to avoid battery problems.

Again, this is only a temporary fix and not a real bypass. I hope that all of you will keep working on a true bypass. Going from my Z1 that had a real bypass to this is a real disappointment.

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I got stuck with a Z2 as a replacement for a defective Z1 and I paid more than that at dealers' cost for my original Z1. So I guess i paid more for my Z2 than a retail customer. Oh well.

I would put my money on the Z1 flaking out. I was on my second defective z1 and now I am being forced into a Z2 and am crossing my fingers that someone figures out a usable bypass. My problem(with both Z1s) was that it would stick on the pioneer screen whenever the temp outside was above 90. This meant that when I left in the morning they would work and then not again until it got dark outside.

What he is saying is that the installer connected the rear monitor output to the back up camera input with a short RCA cable so that when you put power to the reverse wire(purple/white I believe) it will show the video as if it was a camera. Use a switch to supply the +12v.