mhawley Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 I have my console out so I can work on the z1. I did a measurement on the amps on the red ignition circuit, and got 2.8 milliAMPS. Does this sound reasonable? I am in the learning curve on a lot of this stuff. Anyway, I placed the ampmeter between a break in the red circuit, with the leg from the fuse panel connnected to the red side of the ampmeter and the leg going to the z1 connected to the common {black} side of the ampmeter. Thanks for all the input. I also tried a timer relay set to interval, with the red ignition circuit used to trigger the relay. I had a full time circuit on one leg and the ignition circuit on the other leg. I set it up so when the ignition powered up the power to the z1 came from the full time circuit for 50 secs. But when the starter cranked power was lost to the switching circuit, and the relay connected back to the ignition circuit which was momentarily without power and the z1 rebooted. As soon as the power was restored the relay came back on and the timer started back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhawley Posted December 9, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2006 I had one other thought, could a PTR7 be programed to power the ignition input, and use the drop out in voltage as a pulse trigger? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted December 12, 2006 Report Share Posted December 12, 2006 It can be, however there would be a delay between when the power drops and when the tr7 kicks over which would be long enough to cause the z1 to reboot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mhawley Posted December 13, 2006 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 I was able to get the z1 to start acceptably with the PTR7. I set it up so that when the starter kicks in and the voltage drops, the PTR7 will trigger the z1 to start up. When the ignition is turned off, the z1 turns off. I was able to run a power lead from another circuit that is hot all the time. If i want to start it using the accessory switch, i have to turn the key to accessory twice to trigger the z1. I tried to set it up so the z1 would turn on when the key was turned on and when the the drop in voltage occured, the PTR7 would use a continuous hot circuit to power the z1, but the hot circuit still dropped to about 10 volts, and caused the z1 to reboot. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted December 13, 2006 Report Share Posted December 13, 2006 Congrats on getting everything solved the way you wanted it to work. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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