Ok you jackals I ordered a Z1 from AbesOfMaine (it's where I ordered my first one).

Hopefully I get a "fixed" one and if so, I'm going to take it apart and see if I can figure out what might be done for bypassing the new units. This is a very expensive test for me, but I'm going to do it.

If I get an old unit, I will either sell it to a friend or relitave and if that doesn't work, I will sell it here. Hopefully I have enough of a name here that people might feel comfortable buying something so expensive on a forum. I might be able to recoup the cost (might even come with a free bypass circuit) :)

If I get a new one, I'll let eveyone know what I find and when. If anyone else would like to start messing with their new "fixed" units, please feal free.

My guess is that the flashing of the lights will still be needed. They already created the code to check for this. If a new unit is still able to be bypassed in some way, I would guess that they added another "check" before it looked for flashing of the lights. Maybe we have to pull off a sticker (voiding the warranty) and flip a switch or blob solder on two pads or who knows. If anyone would like to check their new unit, please feel free. I wouldn't mind the help.

Thanks ducatiboy, even though I have an older unit that bypasses, I think that's great that your willing to go out and buy another unit to try and help those with the 'fixed' unit.

that's stand up !!

ducatiboy said:

Ok you jackals I ordered a Z1 from AbesOfMaine (it's where I ordered my first one).

Hopefully I get a "fixed" one and if so, I'm going to take it apart and see if I can figure out what might be done for bypassing the new units. This is a very expensive test for me, but I'm going to do it.

wow thats dedication man, thanks for doing this as i like so many others would definitely be buying your new flasher circuit.

Does your testing involve any oscilloscopes? or are you more inclined to do some software work on figuring this out?

thanks again, looking forward to your new product.

well, nother quick question

how do you decipher the serial number to determine the build date to see if you have a pre or post july model?

thanks

lcstyle said:

wow thats dedication man, thanks for doing this

Thanks. I figured that even if I got a "non-bypassable" unit I might be able to sell it here and recoup some of the cost of it. And if I can figure out something, then everyone benifits.

lcstyle said:

as i like so many others would definitely be buying your new flasher circuit.

If that's even what it still requires. If the new units are even able to be bypassed, they might not require any add on circuit, it might just be something as simple as grounding something or whatever.

lcstyle said:

Does your testing involve any oscilloscopes? or are you more inclined to do some software work on figuring this out?

thanks again, looking forward to your new product.

Well, for right now, I have only needed a scope for measurement of time. I created the software in my circuit and then meaured the output/input and timing with a scope. When I tell people I have this timed down to the MS, I'm not kidding :)

I figure that if there is some way to bypass it, it will be external. There will be something accessable to the exterior of the unit (maybe under a warranty sticker) that will have clue.

I'm sure you can bypass it by re-writing the code flashed into the processor of the unit, but I'm not going to go that far. I don't remember what processor is in there, but unless there is a data sheet for it, I'm not touching it. I might have the hardware to interface to an off-the-shelf processor, but they might have used something custom. I wasn't planning on going that far.

oh sweet man.... that's nice of you for those getting a new avic....

now I know where part of those 40bucks go to ;)

thanks again ... have fun...

Ducatiboy you are our savior.

You really are a great guy, thanks a million.

And you have a PM.

-Litos

wow i think that is great of you do .. all that money and time to try and find a bypass. if the unit you buy is an older unit. i would be willing to trade my brand new unit with you if you like? i have one of the new ones made in july and the flasher trick dosent not work. i also have your flasher unit. and that also dosent work. so just let me know if you end up with a older unit.

thanks
patrick

thanks again for all your hard work!

:D :D :D :D :D :D Thanks Db I get mine tommorrow and will see what happens. I know you can do it!!

Grcplaya

DJ Machismo said:

Ducatiboy you are our savior.

You really are a great guy, thanks a million.

For everyone.... I apprecite the support but don't thank me yet. As highly as you all think of me, I can't "walk on water" (so to speak).

If there is absolutely no bypass function in these new units, I don't think I can just magically make one. I'm not going to be reverse engineering the firmware flashed into custom processors for this.

I'm betting that since there has been something in the past to bypass these units, I/we need to figure out what that something is. I'm hoping there is something, but if there isn't I might not be able to come up with anything.

I didn't "find" the bypass for the first units, I read about it here and just made a little circuit that was automatic. I'm hoping I can figure out something with a new one.

ducatiboy said:

For everyone.... I apprecite the support but don't thank me yet. As highly as you all think of me, I can't "walk on water" (so to speak).

If there is absolutely no bypass function in these new units, I don't think I can just magically make one. I'm not going to be reverse engineering the firmware flashed into custom processors for this.

I'm betting that since there has been something in the past to bypass these units, I/we need to figure out what that something is. I'm hoping there is something, but if there isn't I might not be able to come up with anything.

I didn't "find" the bypass for the first units, I read about it here and just made a little circuit that was automatic. I'm hoping I can figure out something with a new one.

but still, it's really cool that your trying and I'm sure that would be 'good enough' for everyone involved. I don't think anyone would be disappointed in you, if you didn't find a work around.

good luck !

The mfr. date, mm/yyyy, will be on the sticker on the box, next to the serial number. And on the same sticker will be on the radio.

I have a Z1. Dunno about the other models, but I would assume the same would apply :)

lcstyle Posted: Tue Aug 15, 2006 3:53 pm Post subject:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

well, nother quick question

how do you decipher the serial number to determine the build date to see if you have a pre or post july model?

thanks

BSecrest said:

The mfr. date, mm/yyyy, will be on the sticker on the box, next to the serial number. And on the same sticker will be on the radio.

I have a Z1. Dunno about the other models, but I would assume the same would apply :)

thanks for replying. maybe someone who just recently bought one of the new units can post up a detailed pic of the back side of the unit and someone with an old unit can post up a detailed pick on theirs so that everyone can see if there is something physicall different at least as far as the back of the unit is concerned.

If i had either unit (old or new) i would post up myself, but alas, i havent bought my Z1 Yet.

thanks

Ron

If we have a way to get software in count on me to try to write code. I don't have one (yet, because I wanna keep my steering wheel controls and I haven't found something compatible) but I'll be more than happy to help if possible. Maybe flashing the unit? Maybe creating a 1-1 copy of the old HDD?

ducatiboy said:

Ok you jackals I ordered a Z1 from AbesOfMaine (it's where I ordered my first one).

Hopefully I get a "fixed" one and if so, I'm going to take it apart and see if I can figure out what might be done for bypassing the new units. This is a very expensive test for me, but I'm going to do it.

I hope you get a newer unit for the testing. I bought my Z1 from abes last monday (8-7) and got a may '06 unit. I dont know what their inventory is, did they say it was in stock when you ordered? Btw thanks for the Circuit!

Steve, if you get an older unit that can still be bypassed, I'm betting there are some guys here who would be willing to pay money to trade you for one of the new ones.

I still can't believe you are willing to front the funds to do this. WOW! Actually, I think we all should get together, throw some money in a pot, and give it to you to offset the price of the unit. Then you won't be in it anything and you can do whatever you need to to try and get into the flashed software without fear of ruining your unit and losing your investment. I'm up for $100. Anyone else?

Thanks, but I figured that what ever I got (old or new), I would be able to sell. Even if it was one of the new ones and even if I can't figure out the way to bypass it, I figured that eventually when I was done testing I could sell it (here) for 80% of what I paid for it at the very least. Or even have a raffle, maybe something like $50 for a 1 in 40 chance for a Z1 (never installed, just tested by me). I would make the money back and someone will get a Z1 for a really low price.

So worse comes to worse, I wouldn't be out that much. I don't need any donations at this time. Thank you for offering though.

Honestly if I can figure out something so that I have one circuit work with both old and new units, it's worth the money just to not have to deal with the support issues that are already arising.

DB, thank you soo much for going through this. I, as I'm sure are many others, am very grateful. I will keep my fingers crossed!

Count me in for the raffle. Thanks again Steve for your willingness to further enhance this site. Whether or not things work out with this new unit, your past contributions to this site have been invaluable...and I'm sure I'm speaking for a lot of people when I say this.

I want dibs on the raffle too.

No raffle yet, it's just an idea. I'll post something if the time comes after I get a unit in and test it.

if it is an old one i will swap it with ya. i have had mine installed for 4 days and cant seem to figure out the bypass. let me know....

DB-Not sure if you saw my other post, but I've been told by someone that on the new units that there is a pin missing so instead of the 20 pins, it's actually only 19 or vice-versa. He said something about possibly grounding a wire for that blank pin. Sorry don't know anything about electrical stuff. He also said that behind the warranty sticker, there's a switch to flip that will bypass all the safety features. I don't know how true all of this, but it was what I was told...Of course I've been told that the new units aren't "fixed" either. Hope this can help in some way.

Well I did get a fixed one (july 06)... let the testing begin!

Good luck on it. Definitely interested to see what you are able to find out.

-Litos