So I just installed my new AVH-P6000DVD HU and tried to bypass the video protection. The parking brake wire is currently connected to the ground. Several sites mentioned this would work, but it won't for me. I'm not looking for a switch or anything, just a full-time bypass. Has anyone had any experience with this?
Thanks in advance!
-Jon
Try this (see attachment), it works perfectly on my AVH-P6800DVD. P6000DVD is identical except the navi option removed.
It's basically one NPN transistor and 2 resistors. Barely uses any electricity and no moving parts.
Any general purpose NPN transistor will work, but I built the circuit using a 2N3904 from my junkbox. Radio Shack sells them for 79-cents. Here's the datasheet for pinouts:
http://www.fairchildsemi.com/ds/2N/2N3904.pdf
The colors in the schematic correspond to the wire colors on the Pioneer harness.
Here's how it works: The Pioneers want to see a transition from 12V (p-brake released) to 0V (p-brake set). This circuit allows 12V to go to the green p-brake wire when there is power on the red ACC wire. Once the HU turns on fully, it energizes the REMOTE (blue/white) wire nearly a full second later, this switches the transistor on and grounds the p-brake wire. Therefore, the HU saw a transition from 12V to 0V and is now bypassed automatically.
Let me know if you try it.
So I just installed my new AVH-P6000DVD HU and tried to bypass the video protection. The parking brake wire is currently connected to the ground. Several sites mentioned this would work, but it won't for me. I'm not looking for a switch or anything, just a full-time bypass. Has anyone had any experience with this?
Thanks in advance!
-Jon
If you dont want to make automatic you have to use a relay. The unit AVH-p6000DVD has to "see" Park-Park release-Park, that means, Ground-Not Ground-Ground. So use a Relay with the Remote Vcc from your AVH-P6000DVD. So when the relay is off the green cable (thats reads the break signal) will be out of ground, when you turn your unit on the remote control will activate the relay putting the green cable to the ground, and finaly when you turn off your unit the relay will disconect to not ground again, so the cicly will be completed. I did that and work perfectly.
Wrong, wrong, and wrong. What you need is a PAC tr-7. Yes, the same PAC that does the steering wheel controls and interfaces. It is a multi-mode timer and output controler. In it it has a mode for bypassing the Alpine TVs, but as a side benifit, it also bypasses all of the newer Pioneer A/V units that need a brake-release-brake cycle. Here's how to do it-
Turn on the program switch on the side.
Power the unit up (red and black wires).
Pulse the brown wire twice. The led wil flash twice and then blink rapidly for a second.
Power down the unit and turn off the program switch.
connect the red wire to accessory and black to ground, the green to the remote turn on (blue/white) and the white to the parking brake (lt green).
Now, every time you turn the radio on, the tr-7 will tell the radio you just went through the parking brake sequence. If you can't find a PAC TR-7, the Peripheral PTR7 is the same thing.
Wrong, wrong, and wrong. What you need is a PAC tr-7. Yes, the same PAC that does the steering wheel controls and interfaces. It is a multi-mode timer and output controler. In it it has a mode for bypassing the Alpine TVs, but as a side benifit, it also bypasses all of the newer Pioneer A/V units that need a brake-release-brake cycle. Here's how to do it-
What are you talking about, "Wrong, wrong, and wrong"? My my, a bit presumptuous, aren't we! If it works, how can it be wrong? Did you even try it? I'm gonna bet the answer is "NO".
Transistor method = <$3.
PAC TR-7 = ~$30.
Transistor method is simple, no programming whatsoever, it just works.
It's a no brainer, IMO!
Don't like transistors for whatever reason, you could even make a standard Bosch style relay do the job for less than $10.
Do you work for PAC or something? Got stock in their company? I guess you don't need any kind of knowledge of electronics these days to be an installer. 
Um, actually, I do have plenty of knowledge of electronics. I did comm repairs in the Air Force 22 Years ago. So I have a very solid foundation. But if a device has already been developed, and is available, most shop managers (like myself) would rather have the customer spend $30 on a bypass part and let the installer spend 2 minuts programming and connecting it then to waste 30 minutes looking for electronic parts, building the circuit, testing it, and realizing it doesn't work. The next question I will here is "Hey, can I get your help over here?"
Yes, I have tried relays, transistors, everything. The only simple solution is an 18 cent switch wired to the park brake wire and to ground. But that's not automatic. The biggest problem lies in the fact the newer Pioneers need a pulse on the light green wire, then a constant ground. Unless you want to build a timer module, a transistor just will not work.
So again, I say pop for the $30 part, follow the instructions I listed, and enjoy.
Um, actually, I do have plenty of knowledge of electronics. I did comm repairs in the Air Force 22 Years ago. So I have a very solid foundation. But if a device has already been developed, and is available, most shop managers (like myself) would rather have the customer spend $30 on a bypass part and let the installer spend 2 minuts programming and connecting it then to waste 30 minutes looking for electronic parts, building the circuit, testing it, and realizing it doesn't work. The next question I will here is "Hey, can I get your help over here?"
For a shop with employees whose extent of electronics knowledge is matching colors and crimping butt connectors, I can certainly understand using a ready-made product, no matter how overkill it is. However, these are DIYers looking for an easy solution they can do themselves and it is barely any more difficult than wiring up a switch.
Yes, I have tried relays, transistors, everything. The only simple solution is an 18 cent switch wired to the park brake wire and to ground. But that's not automatic. The biggest problem lies in the fact the newer Pioneers need a pulse on the light green wire, then a constant ground. Unless you want to build a timer module, a transistor just will not work.
Uh, are you reading challenged?
Try this (see attachment), it works perfectly on my AVH-P6800DVD.
It is fully automatic. I wouldn't have wasted time with it if it weren't.
Do you need a video to prove it?
I even tested it with many different power on/off scenarios, disc in, disc out, etc. It never NOT worked. If you couldn't get anything you tried to work, I guess comm repairs doesn't teach you that much about transistors.
gnat do you think this is the same method you're talking about?
Could be, "INVOLVES ONLY FOUR SIMPLE COLOR CODED WIRES", and, "UNLIKE OUR COMPETITORS, OUR MODULE NEVER REQUIRES YOU TO PROGRAM IT! EVER!", along with the timing, leads me to believe it could very well be, but it's impossible to say without looking inside the little plastic box. Seems a wee bit overpriced if all it's got inside is a transistor and a couple resistors. If they can sell many of them, more power to them!
about the acc portion red wire. The red wire harness is suppose to connect to the red acc from the pioneer unit right and then have the resistor unit between the two red wires?
Not sure I understand what you mean, the 1K resistor would just connect anywhere on the red ACC wire going to the Pioneer. You do not need to cut any existing wires, just tap into them.
don't think the your method is working for me 
. I believe i followed the diagram. My screen all it shows is display might be shown in reversed in a black screen
I used this blue wire remote as that was pretty much the only blue wire the pioneer wires had so since it had an rather odd shape head I cut off the head to solder the wire onto the transistor (hopefully it was the right one)
And also use the parking brake and wires it to one end of the transistor and the acc to the other end of the transistor.
heres how my wiring diagram looks like. I also followed the CBE specific wiring
Is your park brake wire actually hooked up to the park brake? Mine was not, I connected it directly to the transistor.
The message you're getting, it almost sounds like you connected the reverse input wire instead of the park brake wire. A black screen showing "display might be shown in reversed" sounds like a message you would get for the rear camera which is triggered by the reverse input wire.
I dont even think i have a reverse input wire though on the pioneer connection. Its not hooked up to the park brake just directly the transistor. It had display before like showing the ipod and what not just it did not work with videos then suddenly after a few minutes it just went to the black screen and stays there even after i turn on and off the car and etc.
i was thinking of getting the relay but i have no idea what to get and if its possible to build the relay with radio shack parts of somehow buy the relay fully assembled in a store in brooklyn, ny. Don't really want to wait on those online relays.
When you disconnect it, the black screen goes away?
There is a reverse input wire, but it's violet.
Got any closeup pics of your actual circuit? Could the transistor be wired backwards?
Auto parts stores usually have the Bosch style automotive relays that most people use. You will need one SPDT. Someone else posted a diagram awhile back that he said works, you might be able to find it if you do a search. Off the top of my head, I think you'd connect 85 (coil) to SYSTEM REMOTE, 86 to GROUND, 30 to park brake wire (green), 87 to GROUND, and 87a to ACC (red). The numbers are the labels corresponding to terminals on the bottom of the relay. I haven't actually tried the relay myself, but it's similar principle to the transistor and somebody else (the guy that posted the drawing) said it worked for him.
wired backwards what do you mean? You mean the colors to the transistors ends? Is one end negative and the other positive?
No, you have to make sure you have the right wires going to the right pins: E, B, and C. The schematic I posted is generic, transistor pinouts can vary.
actually i resetted the system earlier and the black screen no longer stay there but it still had the symptoms of it popping up after a while and i would have to tap on the screen for it to go away
here is my diagram the resistors are color coded. 10k being orange and black and 1k being red and black. The diagram shows where the transistor are facing i am guessing red is + and black is - ? i really have no clue
If you're using the same 2N3904 transistor as I used, from the flat front (with the writing), the transistor pins are E, B, C.
E goes to ground.
C goes to 1K resistor.
B goes to 10K resistor.
This picture is of the flat side of the npn those are the correct letterings right? im looking at the back of the radio shack pin diagram
i also noticed it doesnt seem i have a revearse plug because the two purple wires are for speakers according to the p5000 wiring diagram
Yes, those are correct pinouts for the transistor if it's a 2N3904.
I'm looking at a PDF of the 5000DVD installation manual, there should be a 3rd purple wire, it has a white stripe and a bullet connector on the end. That one is for the reverse input.
You didn't label the pins in your diagram, so make sure you have the resistors hooked up to the correct pins.
What is the exact message you are getting on the screen?
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/Stati ... al0123.pdf i use this diagram it doesnt mention anything about a 3rd purple wire either
i cannot find the 3rd purple wire what so ever 
i didnt cut any wires off either. Do you happen to have aol instant messenger or what not? Think itll be better to talk to u there or rather easier 
ok update..
found the wire you're talking about but the wire isn't part of the set of wires that comes with the acc instead the wire comes attached with the rearview camera input.. I cant find the reverse cable anywhere on my metra wire harness.
I have a 2008 nissan rogue btw
Nah, no AIM. I have Live Messenger at work, but I won't be there till morning.
Anyway, if that wire isn't hooked up and isn't shorting to anything, then it can't be the problem.
When you disconnect your circuit, is everything working properly?
pretty sure it does havent had a chance to normally solder it, it partially works now but the bypass works like 10% of the time it will turn blue and then go back to the movie and turn blue again about it being in motion.