@joegr

Joe, thank you for answering all my questions!

I think now I understand what your schematic means and how it works.

Regards

Johannes

So I think either a solution with "secondary battery" or with a "big capacitor" are the only two possibilities.

 

Thank you

Johannes

Well i have made that system and it's working. I have used a motor battery 12v 5Ah, an timer relay t40205 and three normal relays. I have used the ground pulse from my interiour light to switch 1 relay to get the right positive pulse for my timer relay. When i remote open my doors, he interior light is on and so it sends a signals to relay 1. This one is activating the timer relay and the timerrelay opens the two other relays. One is disconnecting the acc wire and the other one is diconnecting te constant wire. When activated, both the relays are on secondery battery for 30seconds plus the time the interiour light is on. This setup is working fine, but when i leave the car the radio is playing further for 30 seconds (i've i open my door first before swithing off the car).

Interesting thing!

Thanks for sharing your experience and ideas.

Johannes

http://www.medienelektronik.de/Artikel/615/1203/Entstoerung-MUNDORF_HeadCap_SC68_Speichercap_mit_ISO_Anschluss_und_Schutzelektronik.htm

 

Should work as plug and play for most cars in Europe with ISO style harness, for the Pioneer you just need one additional Diode in the yellow cable and you are fine. Buffers 5-6 secs, so long enough for cranking.

How u got the value of 5 seconds of buffering? Did you test it?

If i take that capacitor (0,068 F) with an AVIC of 2A and 14,4 V in a car and use

C = I * t / V

solved to t, then the capacitor buffers just 0,5 seconds...

I was wondering if both leads need to maintain 10.8+ volts? If the signal wire maintained 12v would the radio stay up even if the constant power wire dropped to less than 10.8?

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I was wondering if both leads need to maintain 10.8+ volts? If the signal wire maintained 12v would the radio stay up even if the constant power wire dropped to less than 10.8?

=

Yes. I've tried and when the acc wire is good and the constant drops, you get a strange effect in a not booting radio. You can hear the fan blowing but i get nothing on my screen.

thanks for saving me some time!

http://www.medienelektronik.de/Artikel/615/1203/Entstoerung-MUNDORF_HeadCap_SC68_Speichercap_mit_ISO_Anschluss_und_Schutzelektronik.htm

 

Should work as plug and play for most cars in Europe with ISO style harness, for the Pioneer you just need one additional Diode in the yellow cable and you are fine. Buffers 5-6 secs, so long enough for cranking.

 

How u got the value of 5 seconds of buffering? Did you test it?

If i take that capacitor (0,068 F) with an AVIC of 2A and 14,4 V in a car and use

 

C = I * t / V

 

solved to t, then the capacitor buffers just 0,5 seconds...

I have it installed and tested: When I pull out the key the Avic stays on for 5-7 seconds no matter which audio scource is running.

Jörg

I have it installed and tested: When I pull out the key the Avic stays on for 5-7 seconds no matter which audio scource is running.

 

Jörg

Great. Then i'm willing to pay the money for a try...if i can find the necessary space in my dash...

Thx for the hint, it seems to be an easy solution.

I don't know if everyone has solved their problem with this but I just finally broke down and bought a .5 farad capacitor from the local Meijer store (think Walmart). I wired it to the ACC line and now I no longer have any problems. I will wire up a fuse inline to it but other than that it's good to go. As a side note my radio stays on for about 11 seconds after the car is turned off. I can live with that but a .25 farad capacitor may be better. The part I bought is a Scoche PSC.5F20PK. It's probably at walmart too. 45 bucks and no more reboots at the gas station and no more excessive idling!

try the schematics from ThinkPad (4pda.ru)

works for me and allows to stay alive for 10 seconds

This should help me because I'm finding that the cap is feeding back into my delayed exit circuit. I need to isolate the voltage. It's still better than before, I just need to fiddle with it now.

I don't know if everyone has solved their problem with this but I just finally broke down and bought a .5 farad capacitor from the local Meijer store (think Walmart). I wired it to the ACC line and now I no longer have any problems. I will wire up a fuse inline to it but other than that it's good to go. As a side note my radio stays on for about 11 seconds after the car is turned off. I can live with that but a .25 farad capacitor may be better. The part I bought is a Scoche PSC.5F20PK. It's probably at walmart too. 45 bucks and no more reboots at the gas station and no more excessive idling!

Again, just to clarify something, using a CAP on the ACC line only solve the issue related to the lost of the ACC when starting it does not resolve the voltage dropping below 10 volts issue ?

And also to validate, if I read correctly the voltage drop is critical on the ACC line as well as on the constant power input, both need to stay higher then 10.5v ?

Also to add a delay to the ACC input on the AVIC.PDF circuit, can't we simply add a diode and a capacitor at the base of Q1 to maintain it alive a couple of seconds while the car is cranking ? (T= 3*R*C, so a 2200uF would give us around a 6 seconds delay)

hey guys, sorry to be the "can you google it for me" noob.. i've been trying to read this thread and i just... don't get what i need to do. but this is a mod i want to do SOOOO badly since i hate this issue. so my question is, is there anyway one of you can pretty much spell it out for lamens like myself?

pics? parts and where to get them? instructions

again... i don't like asking people to fish for me whenever possible, but i'm really lost on this one on my own

The biggest problem with getting the AVIC to continue to run will starting the car is that usually the car battery voltage will fall below 10.5V while doing so. The AVIC will shutdown if the voltage on the red or the yellow wire goes below 10.5 V.

See attached schematic for one solution.

The car_acc_pwr line has to be one that is on when the key is turned to run or start. The ignition power lead would be one example of such a signal.

Waiting for the batteries to arrive, but about to build this. Starting voltage drop is not usually the issue, but the unit's going 'stupid' and the resultant very long GPS boot time is; this even with both red and yellow power wires connected to BAT(+). (The car battery holds charge real well.) I have yet to learn why one F500BT long-boots (latest Pioneer update (4.0)) yet the other one, not car-installed but connected to the wall adapter, running Ver 3.0 (from here) w/ Chrome mod responds quickly to the 'soft boot'. Seems the quick press of the PWR button on the FT500BT should allow such a quickie, as it does on the latter one..... even after several days of no use.

Hey all,

Accidentally posted to a simillar thread under the the Z model forums, so reposting here as I've got the F900BT.

New to the F900BT, but this reboot with ignition is already bugging the heck outta me. I've read through a couple threads on the subject with a variety of solutions and I like the ease of this PAC TR7 solution since I wouldn't feel safe with putting something I soldered together myself under my dash. However, I'm not sure if the PAC TR7 will normalize the voltage to address such a voltage drop.

While reading up on all this, I found on eBay a cheap used "Power Tamer VS" made by Copeland Engineering. It appears these are primarily marketed to Police and Abulance fleets to keep their numerous instruments running after shutting off the engine. You can set the delay from 15 minutes to a few hours, but it also has a "test mode" that retains voltage for 5 seconds. 5 seconds seems perfect to solve this reboot issue and the delay is set by simple DIP switches which sounds a bit easier than the PAC TR7 configuration. Not sure if it can keep the voltage up over 10.5V while starting the engine, but it sounds like it should at least solve the drop on the ACC line.

Anyway, I ordered it since it was cheap so once I've had a chance to wire it up, I'll report on whether it solves this issue. But has anyone else have any luck with these sorts of units? It only has four wires (Ground, Battery, Ignition, and Power Out to Radio) and attaching that ignition wire is optional as it apparently can sense the car starting from the Battery feed. Though should I wire to my car's ACC wire? I'm assuming that the 'Power Out to Radio' would go to both the ACC and Battery lines into the AVIC?

Thanks for any insight before I fry anything,

PMS

I received the 'Power Tamer' and it seems it does keep the ACC line on, however, since my battery drops below 10V during ignition, so does it's ACC-out line and I still get a reboot.

So I'm going to add a battery, but looking at the AVIC.PDF diagram, I'm thinking I'll only need the top half since my ACC drop issue is already fixed (I don't need to touch the ACC line). I just need to keep the battery level going in to the Power Tamer from dropping those couple volts. Therefore I think I'll just need a 12v battery, two diodes, a 10 Ohm 10W resistor and a 10 uF 25V capacitor.

For the battery, I can get NiMH AAs pretty cheap. Would those suffice for the charge cycles and current required? And as for the diodes, I couldn't find the exact part#, but I did find a few schottky diodes at my local surplus store at various ratings for voltages and current. What range should I be aiming for? Another poster had 45V and 16A, but the only one I found that high has three leads(?).

Anyway, I'll run this by my electrical engineer brother before I plug it in, but again, if anyone has any suggestions before I head out again to my local electronics surplus shop again, they'd be appreciated. The staff there can be helpful, but they're always more pleasant if you appear to know what you're talking about.

The Power Tamer does have the nice feature that it'll retain ACC voltage from 5 seconds to up to a few hours configurable with DIP switches. It's a small unit that fits nicely in the glove box so it's great for road trip with pit stops... even meal breaks, but again, the engine crank issue defeats this.

-PMS

So this thread looks like it's becoming my monologue, though I think I may be done. Got the Power Tamer hooked up with the top half of the AVIC.PDF battery circuit and it's working great.

The only question I have left is, what type of batteries would work best in this situation? I was planning on using NiMH (~1500mAh) AAs, but the store had NiCD (600mAh) as well so I went with those as it matches the original design. They work good, but in terms of long-term use in this situation, would the higher capacity NiMH's work as well or better?

I started reading up on battery recharging, and the type of charging that this circuit provides doesn't sound ideal for either type. I don't think they'll explode or anything, but I'm just wondering how long I'll be able to rely on them. Though being AA's in standard battery holder will make them easy enough to replace.

-PMS