Thanks Ron for picking up the gauntlet. I haven't been on the forum too much lately. The PAC TR7 is the way to go. Because it is solid state and programmable, it can do so much more. I am now using this for other things as well. Thanks for finding it. For the price, it's already made up, no DIY required.

My system works for me (and I DID run a new fused 12V (and 12 gauge)line direct from the battery to the yellow - so now no rebooting for no reason), but now I wouldn't do it. Thanks for finding the PAC unit.

hg

Thanks Ron for picking up the gauntlet. I haven't been on the forum too much lately. The PAC TR7 is the way to go. Because it is solid state and programmable, it can do so much more. I am now using this for other things as well. Thanks for finding it. For the price, it's already made up, no DIY required.

 

My system works for me (and I DID run a new fused 12V (and 12 gauge)line direct from the battery to the yellow - so now no rebooting for no reason), but now I wouldn't do it. Thanks for finding the PAC unit.

 

hg

Ok, thanks.

I'll go the PAC route then.

Anyone got some more indepth "How-to" on the programing of that thing?

Ok, after a lot of trial and error, I discovered that I was not supposed to cut the red wire. I just hooked up the blue and green wire from the PAC up to the red wire from the HU. The red wire from the PAC to the yellow of the HU and then the black wire from the PAC to ground. It worked then.

Of course, I did this after programing.

I also had to run a constant 12v from the battery to the yellow wire of the head unit.

BTW, I have a 2003 Ford SVT Lightning(F150).

I also have the same problem, my HU reboots everytime i start the car, i already bought the tr7 device, now i just need help programming it. I dont understand how to do this. Can someone explain to me how to program the device for it to fix our problem. Thank you in advance, i know that its function 12, but i dont understand how to exactly program it.

I also have the same problem, my HU reboots everytime i start the car, i already bought the tr7 device, now i just need help programming it. I dont understand how to do this. Can someone explain to me how to program the device for it to fix our problem. Thank you in advance, i know that its function 12, but i dont understand how to exactly program it.

Henry,

I researched the TR7 and was going to install it but I never got around to it. Once I realized that, by itself, it would not solve my reboot problem, I put it on hold . I would also have to run a heavy gauge wire directly from my battery (the yellow power feed) because the voltage drop (during starter cranking) on the factory harness was also a problem. I just didn't feel like ripping my center console again just for this annoyance. I'm waiting for the Z130 s/w upgrade to justify removing the HU and at that time will install the TR7, new Traffic Tuner, better mic, and rear camera.

I think I understand the basics of the TR7, but I have not actually done it. So, if no one else steps in, I will try helping. Maybe if you asked more specific questions. Are you asking how to set up the programming or are you asking for help with specific parameters? Like what values to use for the time delay?

I think the method of programming is pretty well covered in the manual, but I can see that if you are new to this stuff, it could get confusing.

Again, I'd rather have someone who's actually done it respond, but I can take a guess if no one responds. Maybe you could PM some of the members who have used it (see above). They might not see your question if they don't frequent the board often.

Henry,

I researched the TR7 and was going to install it but I never got around to it. Once I realized that, by itself, it would not solve my reboot problem, I put it on hold . I would also have to run a heavy gauge wire directly from my battery (the yellow power feed) because the voltage drop (during starter cranking) on the factory harness was also a problem. I just didn't feel like ripping my center console again just for this annoyance. I'm waiting for the Z130 s/w upgrade to justify removing the HU and at that time will install the TR7, new Traffic Tuner, better mic, and rear camera.

 

 

I think I understand the basics of the TR7, but I have not actually done it. So, if no one else steps in, I will try helping. Maybe if you asked more specific questions. Are you asking how to set up the programming or are you asking for help with specific parameters? Like what values to use for the time delay?

I think the method of programming is pretty well covered in the manual, but I can see that if you are new to this stuff, it could get confusing.

 

Again, I'd rather have someone who's actually done it respond, but I can take a guess if no one responds. Maybe you could PM some of the members who have used it (see above). They might not see your question if they don't frequent the board often.

I would like the specific parameters, yeah i think i understand pretty much how to program it, i just dont know what time i should program it to, and if i would use the 3 timers that are available in function 12, thanks you very much

I would like the specific parameters, yeah i think i understand pretty much how to program it, i just dont know what time i should program it to, and if i would use the 3 timers that are available in function 12, thanks you very much

As far as the best delay time, the way I figure it is - it needs to be at least as long as it takes your vehicle to start/crank. Normally, that's just a few seconds. If it sometimes takes longer, such as cold winter weather, add more. The only down-side that I can think of for an extra long delay is that your HU will stay on for that delay every time you turn off your ignition. So if you set it to 1 minute, you might have music or a DVD playing after you exit and lock the car. But that isn't a big deal. I'd rather error on the "too long" side than "too short".

As far as wiring, I'm puzzled/confused by the method that castellscl described a few posts above. It sounds like the TR7 doesn't smoothly transition/cancel the delay shutoff once power is returned to the green trigger wire (like after you release the key). So he had to "tap" the green trigger and blue output into the existing red HU wire (instead of totally isolating the red from the original switched 12v source). The problem with this is that the blue wire will feed +12v current back into the vehicle's switched circuits. I see that as an issue. Those other circuits might overload the TR7. If that is the only way to get the TR7 to work, then a diode should be used up-stream of the blue wire.

Ladies and Germs,

I used the PAC TR7 for an ignition shutoff delay as well, but I used feature #6, which seemed more appropriate (Pulse extender/Delayed turnoff v. 3 timers in one [feature #12]). It took a little bit of figuring out, as I didn't realize that the TR7 itself would need constant power (I ended up wiring it to the cigarette power adapter), not accessory power, and a few other minor issues. It seems to lose its programming (or maybe it's just me) if you disconnect power after programming it, so I had to program it in the vehicle. We'll see what happens the first time I disconnect the batteries, but as of right now, it's working perfect.

Background info: 2008 Dodge Ram 2500 w/ 6.7L Cummins (two batteries), Pioneer AVIC X910BT w/ aftermarket subs and speakers (professionally installed), stock Infinity system. I just wired in steering wheel controls (PAC SWI-RC [contrary to SWI-RC instructions, I did not need the CAN adapter, as I had a suitable relay due to the AVIC having been installed]) and the PAC TR7 today, and all is well! I also did the hardware hack of the AVIC about a week ago and that's working perfectly. I also installed a lighted switch, powered by accessory power, for the fuel transfer pump mounted under my bed to transfer fuel from my 85 gallon toolbox/tank combo into the main tank, so now I'm set for my trip from Alaska to Texas, minus one H&S MiniMaxx tuner.

Thanks to everyone on the site for all the info! A note to the mods though: due to some weirdness with the search feature, it's nearly impossible to get anything useful by searching within the forums. It's easier to just use Google and add "AVIC" to what I'm trying to find than to search within the site.

Hey all,

New to the F900BT, but this reboot with ignition is already bugging the heck outta me. I've read through a couple threads on the subject with a variety of solutions and I like the ease of this PAC TR7 solution since I wouldn't feel safe with putting something I soldered together myself under my dash. However, some posters have reported that cranking the engine will cause the voltage on the yellow line to drop enough to reboot as well. Does the PAC TR7 normalize the voltage to address such a voltage drop?

While reading up on all this, I found on eBay a cheap used "Power Tamer VS" made by Copeland Engineering. It appears these are primarily marketed to Police and Abulance fleets to keep their numerous instruments running after shutting off the engine. You can set the delay from 15 minutes to a few hours, but it also has a "test mode" that retains voltage for 5 seconds. 5 seconds seems perfect to solve this reboot issue and the delay is set by simple DIP switches which sounds a bit easier than the PAC TR7 configuration. Not sure if it can keep the voltage up over 10.5V while starting the engine (users have reported that below that level the F900BT reboots), but it sounds like it should at least solve the drop on the ACC line.

Anyway, I ordered it since it was cheap so once I've had a chance to wire it up, I'll report on whether it solves this issue. But has anyone else have any luck with these sorts of units? It only has four wires (Ground, Battery, Ignition, and Power Out to Radio) and attaching that ignition wire is optional as it apparently can sense the car starting from the Battery feed. I'm assuming that the 'Power Out to Radio' would go to both the ACC and Battery lines into the AVIC?

Thanks for any insight before I fry anything,

PMS

Just wanted to chime in on how I made this work for me. 07 Nissan frontier, I tapped the power side of my clutch safety switch, and used a diode similar to the OP's method. Power is on here in on and start, and I kept acc power from the radio harness. Works well, as long as my battery is still charged to a certain extent. If the power gets to low my starter will draw below 9v. For auto trans pnp switch may be another option to do this from.

Most electrical devices drop off (because power is cut to them) during the crank cycle. This is because the starter needs the maximum amount of amps it can get.

Sometimes during crank you can drop to 5.5 or 6 volts. Nothing works at that low of a voltage.

There is possibly a better solution out there using these SPDT relays... check the12volt.com under "retained accessory power"

http://www.the12volt.../page5.asp#drto

This sets up your car so that the stereo gets power even after key is out of ignition -- and it gets cut when you open a door. This uses 3 SPDT relays and a couple of diodes and seems like it is going to work pretty well. I've wired up the relays and am about to install them in the car tomorrow. I tested it using a power supply and it seems like it will work like a charm. For those facing a drop in voltage during start, I can't see why you couldn't use a large capacitor to try to stabalize the voltage for those few seconds.

This will take care of the situation where you are going to just start the car from accessory position. I kind of wish there was a seamless way for the unit not to have to reboot after the key was turned off for under 10 or 15 minutes. Something like a "sleep" mode that brought it right back up to where you had it.

Got my Power Tamer VS today and installed it as per the instructions. It works great!! The programing is a piece of cake using dip switches compaired to the TR7. I turned all the switches off to put it in the 5 second test mode and haven't had a reboot yet when going from Acc to Engine Start. The only drawback is the price, $85.00 from a fleet dealer and the unit is larger than the TR7. Other than that I love it.

Got my Power Tamer VS today and installed it as per the instructions. It works great!! The programing is a piece of cake using dip switches compaired to the TR7. I turned all the switches off to put it in the 5 second test mode and haven't had a reboot yet when going from Acc to Engine Start. The only drawback is the price, $85.00 from a fleet dealer and the unit is larger than the TR7. Other than that I love it.

Where exactly did you wire up the Power Tamer VS? Near the fusebox under the hood? I would appreciate it if you could post pics.

I wired it under the dash in my Explorer. When I removed the bottom of the the dash under the steering wheel there wes a metal bracket that the power tamer fit perfect. Just set all the dip switches to off, that will put it in the 5 second "test mode". I didn't use the optional ignition wire. No reboots at all, Power stays on for 5 seconds after you open the door, normal.

I wired it under the dash in my Explorer. When I removed the bottom of the the dash under the steering wheel there wes a metal bracket that the power tamer fit perfect. Just set all the dip switches to off, that will put it in the 5 second "test mode". I didn't use the optional ignition wire. No reboots at all, Power stays on for 5 seconds after you open the door, normal.

I actually meant how did you ELECTRICALLY wire it up? Did you tap into the fusebox? Where did you run the wires?

I wired the unit this way.

Red wire of the Power Tamer VS to my 12v distribution block.

Black wire of the Power Tamer VS to my Ground distribution block.

Orange wire of the Power Tamer VS to the Red 12v lead of the Z unit's power connector.

I did not use the Power Tamer VS yellow lead, it is not needed.

Sorry for the confusion. This is a great unit.

this would be awesome if someone did a full video on how to do this.

It is really easy.

1. Connect the Red wire from the Power Tamer vs (PTvs) to a constant battery power source.

2. Connect the Black wire from the PTvs to ground

3. Connect the Orange wire from the PTvs directly to the power wire from your Z unit don't splice it in. this should be the only power in to the Z unit.

4. Disregard the Yellow wire from the PTvs. It is not needed.

5. Set all the dip switches to the off position. This will put the PTvs into test mode, giving you 5 seconds to start the engine.

Here is the link to the PTvs wiring at the manufactures' website. http://www.copelandengineering.com/powertamervswiring.html

Hope this helps.

I realize this is an old thread but am posting this as a cheap and easy fix for future readers of this thread having the same issue. There are only 2 parts needed to resolve this issue: 2200uF capacitor @ 16vdc (or higher - I used 35v) and a rectifier diode (stripped end toward capacitor). Here is the part numbers if the parts I used on my Pioneer AVH-4100NEX:

• IN4004 Rectifier Diode #276-1103 by RadioShack
• 2200uF Electrolytic Capacitor #272-1020 By RadioShack

You will need to cut the radio's ACC wire (usually red) and solder both the striped end of the diode and the positive end (black, insulated end for capacitor used above) of the capacitor to the ACC wire (radio-side). Now solder the non-striped end of the diode to the car-side of the ACC wire (switched power source). Solder the negative end of the capacitor to the radio's ground wire or another good ground. That's it! Now you will have about a 5sec buffer, plenty of time for the engine to start.

Came across this old thread so I thought I'd add some new info. I never did implement any "fix" based on the ideas here. I just lived with the problem (rebooting). However, last year I needed a new battery and I upgraded from the 700 CCA OEM battery to an AGM 900 CCA one from Autozone. After that, the problem went away. I now leave my Z110-BT ON when pumping gas or other similarly brief shutdowns.  So, in my case, the real issue was the voltage drop on the always-on +12V when starting the car. Just needed a more robust battery.