That may be the case, although I'm unsure how to scan the boot sector for errors and fix them. It's been my (limited) experience that once the boot sector on a standard HD gets errors or corrupts it's a done deal and the OS won't boot until those files are recompiled and/or repaired manually via a boot disk or similar means. The HDD FAQ sticky mentions that the system OS is embedded in flash memory and not on the HD, so if that's the case that leads me to think that this is not a bad sector on the cylinder issue because the OS does not boot or run from the HD. Of course that just begs the question, if the system doesn't run from the HD why doesn't it boot from the embedded memory?

But, until I know for sure that the internal temperature sensor is not preventing the units from starting properly I'd hate to waste $150 for a HD that is just going to freeze based on that sensor's output. From a logic standpoint, it just makes sense to me that they put that sensor in there so that the unit knows if it's safe to start or not.

im going to take the gamble with the HD and ill let ya know the only problem is a few other members mentioned the only HD,s they got to work were toshiba and the rest wouldnt work. i wont use the gax line and i would like to use the MK4036GAC but you cant find them they have the 85C threshold like the one HD you found. currently we use the GACE and they are avalible but im not going to buy another possible problem.

I guess i should have refraised my boot sector idea. its like this [i know you know just making sure i know lol]

the HD when hot throws errors right and left and when the HD is hot its getting too many errors during the boot proccess to boot at all. its those same errors that cause mine and so many others librarys to jump around also. your rite its not a bad sector but it makes me wonder because once these get hot in the begining the get progressively worse pre update. i really think they changed more then just the heat threshold with the update. i heard there were boot files in the update.

either way if we get another 10-15C out of a HD and use a sunshade to keep the dash cooler we may be home free for the cure since the GACE already works for allot of people.

without hacking up the HU i will look for case modifacations that i can do like when im overclocking PC,s finaly all those years of overclocking will pay off besides having a smokin PC

personaly if there was a temp sensor it would be in the HU and ive kept my HU hot as it was when it would not boot and then put in the cool HD only to watch it boot perfect. i dought there is a temp sensor in the HD when the get hot they just throw errors they dont shut down. remember people have got into the diagnostics of the HU when the unit is hot and they have done the read test only to see errors pop up while hot but the unit booted perfectly and then when the unit cools the same test was done with no HD errors at all.

the first time your HU wont boot and you put that hot HD in your hand youll understand

What are the odds of getting a lawyer to represent us Z1 users for this issue that Pioneer doesn't take seriously?

Not good. I've been through this with Sony back in 2000 and it's difficult to find a lawyer willing to go class action against a company that big. If there were several million of these units sold in this country and a bigger population of people experiencing (and posting) the problem they might take interest. I've been keeping a list of users reporting the problem and so far we're up to 47. I don't think any lawyer would think it's worth their time and effort unless there were several 100 or even a thousand people to add to the suit. Moreover, Pioneer would just place blame on Toshiba so then your looking at multiple companies and years of litigation. In the end, assuming a judgement in favor of the plaintiffs, we'd probably only get a couple of hundred bucks in restitution.

Well I live in Houston, TX and since the update from Z1 to Z2 I have not had a freeze... I was told by my installer that the update changed the degrees to 125 it was set at 110 not sure if that is real or not he says that is what was told to him by Pioneer.

Yup, I was wondering if they adjusted the temp threshold. I'm down in Clear Lake and mine has been doing better since the update...only one freeze Monday when it was around 105F at the space center.

they had to of changed the temp with the update. my guess is its the HU that has the temp sensor.

the only problem i have with it is its not shutting down the HD the HD is failing [kicking errors] before the unit will shut itself down.

you can add me to the list of freeze at boot mine has done it at least 5 time under hot weather.on my z2 got mine when they first came out.

I've been experiencing freeze ups and library music just keeps scrolling playing part of songs.

I've been able to insert a music cd and the unit will play the cd, but the unit still is froze on the splash screen.

Haven't been able to do a level 3 or 4 reset.

Today hasn't been hot at all, in the lower 70's when I started my vehicle, and temp was dropping into high 60's.

Freeze ups are occurring more frequently now.

WILL SEE IF THE NEWER UNIT WORKS BETTER

I have sent my Z2 in for repair once already and they cleared the HD, got it back and installed 3 days ago and now the problem is back. freezes on splash screen, but still plays my ipod.

I called Pioneer and they asked me the current temp (98 +hight humidity) and asked me to run a 16guage wire from the radio ground directly to the battery.

dude must not realize the batter in my car is in the trunk!

(I have an 06 Dodge Charger http://www.cardomain.com/id/GeekGrl)

I have sent my Z2 in for repair once already and they cleared the HD, got it back and installed 3 days ago and now the problem is back. freezes on splash screen, but still plays my ipod.

I called Pioneer and they asked me the current temp (98 +hight humidity) and asked me to run a 16guage wire from the radio ground directly to the battery.

That's a new one. It's just crazy enough to make me want to try it. Anyone got a theory on why a higher current ground might be a fix?

The plausable situation would be that resistance is proportional to temperature. So if the issue could be that the voltage drop could be too much for the HDD to get the power it needs on bootup. But at normal temps, the resistance is low enough for the required voltage for bootup.

Again...only speculation at this point.

I'm having the same problem. I just removed my unit to send in. The tech at Pioneer was poo pooing our theories stating that the unit needs a 14 gauge wire direct to the battery itself and and a direct ground for the HD to run properly as (he says) is stated in the install directions. Hes stated that the HDs are not getting enough juice and that's why they are failing.

Don't kill the messenger....

Ya know.. I could see the supply current being an issue if you were using the AVIC's built in AMP. However.. If you are running external amps, I can't imagine that the measly current requirements of a LAPTOP (i.e. low current) hard drive are not easily met by almost any wiring situation.

Since I know her installation ( as I did it.. ), I know she's running an externally amped setup. Another nail in this theories coffin is that the freeze occurs before the highest current load for the unit.. when there's audio playing. ( while I understand if your input source was selected to an external source, the audio will start playing, it seems that the freeze occurs before this point, and independent of source [ external / internal ]. )

LK

Hi, I wanted to chime in on this subject:

 

I had mine Z2 (+ BT + IPOD + REAR CAMERA + XM modules) installed professionally in my Audi S4 about 3 months ago. I like the unit a lot and it wows anyone who checks it out. -- I have some gripes about menu options and other issues that other people are complaining about as well... but on to the main issue at hand:

 

About 3 weeks ago my unit locked up on startup for the first time. I turned off the car, waited about a minute then started the car / unit again. Another freeze again; and another and another, etc. I pressed the reset button and then turned off the car. Started up correctly this time.

 

This same thing has happened now 3 times over 3 weeks. Very intermittently.

 

What causes this: vibration, heat, both?

 

I appreciate the feedback.

 

Thanks!

WTF? Have you not read anything in this thread? Everyone that's posted has claimed that heat is the problem.

Fixed it....... well sort of

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mine does the same im here in AZ and it was 110 today and my shit did not work all day even when blasting the AC it take an hour out here just to cool the car I called my dude he said bring it in he will swap it for a new one but I have a feeling it will do the same Im thinking about having him put the kenwood in after hearing all these people and save me a few hundred and I can watch movies wjhile i drive this deck is pos

Fixed it....... well sort of

Did the thermaltake coolers actually work?

LK

Fixed it....... well sort of

 

Did the thermaltake coolers actually work?

 

LK

While that looks like it will help, but it would only truely solve the problem if the fans were left running all the time, or were triggered by a tempature sensor when the car is parked in an un-covered lot. the main time I have the lockups is late in the after noon, while my car has been parked in direct sunlight.

I always leave my windows cracked and use my sun visor in the front window.

try this, its got to be useful cuz its on ebay!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sunroofs ... 0148596999

I have a question tho. What would it matter on the gauge of wire if the pioneer harness is such a think gauge? Granted mine is all soldered in and taped up so its been awhile since I've seen it.

I am getting really pissed off that my $2,000 POS radio doesnt work 25% of the time.

Mine is just grounded in the harness. Is there any results yet with the heavy duty direct ground?

well you do want an equal ground to power gauge.

So I just received my customer's Z2 yesterday. I sent it in for the first time and got it back, NTF. I sent it back the same day saying it didn't work again, and yesterday after waiting 2 weeks I received a brand new one. It even came with all the new harnesses and in the retail box. The production date is July 2007.

How can I tell if it has the most recent update for the bypass to work? I'll check the other threads but thought I'd go ahead and ask since I've already started this thread.

odd - I called in today and was told to register the unit online and they hope to have a fix (he mentioned software) sometime in September.

oh well - doesnt hurt!

Kinda silly tho that all these Z1 and Z2 owners are having problems and its taking so long to figure out what really is the culprit.