Didn't have a lot going on today, and since this seems to be a fairly oftenly requested vehicle I figured I'd take some pics of the install with my crappy camera phone.

Equipment

Pioneer AVIC-D3

Retain use of Factory Aux input

Parts needed

95-5812 - Dash Kit

70-5520 - Harness if you DON'T have the factory sub

70-5521 - Harness if you DO have the factory sub

40-CR-10 - Antenna Adaptor

Pac SWI-PS - If you have steering wheel controls

First things first gonna have to take the stock radio out. Open up the dash kit. Take the instructions out and READ them. That being said, normally I locate all of my wiring first then run that to the dash location.

VSS

VSS is yellow/blue at the wiper motor.

Before I get crucified for the t-tap in the picture, I use that solely for when I'm testing wires. At any rate there's the vss. If you're standing in front of the truck looking at the engine, that harness is in the far right corner. About 6 inches below that and 8 inches back is a chrome sticker that covers where the clutch assembly would be bolted to. That's a perfect place to go through the firewall and into the vehicle.

REVERSE

Reverse is Green/brown in the driver's kick. If you have the reverse sensors, your job is even easier. Set the parking brake and put the truck into reverse. Follow the beeping noise to this module.

Disconnect the harness from the module and the reverse is in that plug.

INTEGRATING THE FACTORY AUX INPUT

Next up is to integrate the factory aux input in the dash. You can skip this if your truck doesn't have it or you don't care to retain the use of it.

FYI you'll also need a cheap set of rcas to do this.

Cut one set of ends off about 8 or so inches long

Next separate the 2 ends

This is the somewhat tricky part. That wire contains 2 conductors. The center positive and the outside ground sheild. What you want to do is strip off the outer insulation 2 inches long.

Once that's done, if you slide the ground sheild out of the way you'll see the insulation surrounding the center conductor.

Next up is to strip back 1 inch of the center conductor.

This is the harness that contains the wiring for the factory aux plug. The wires in front of my fingers are the aux wiring. Holding the clip side to the roof, if you look very closely at the wire side of that plug you'll see the number 8 on one end and the number 1 on the other. The pins we need to tie into are 6, 7, and 8.

8 is right positive. Tie the positive for the red rca to this one

6 is left positive. Tie the positive for the white rca to this one.

7 is the ground sheild. Take both the left and right ground sheilds and tie them into this pin.

Quick note here, I left my paper with the wire colors at work. I'll update this monday with the actual wire colors.

End Result.

GPS ANTENNA MOUNTING.

Not really much to say here, antenna's mounting on the passenger side of the dash by the window. Wire run into the radio cavity. Excess wiring figure 8'ed under the passenger side carpet. I also tape the gps antenna to the vehicle's antenna behind the radio, since I have a tendency to forget to plug in one or the other.

STEERING WHEEL CONTROLS

I'm not going to retype pac's directions for wiring this thing up since I think their instructions are pretty thorough. I will however give you some tips. First go to radio shack an get a 100 ohm resistor. The resistors the interface comes with aren't the right value and you can't get 100 ohms from any of them. Second I usally tape a ziptie to the resistor to provide some added strength. Like this.

Here all of the wires I need to tie the interface into are stripped, opened, and ready for splicing. Left to right they are Ground, accessory, interface wire, wire that must be grounded. It is worth noting though this truck had some electrical damage done to it at some point. My accessory wire may not be the same color as what you find in your vehicle.

All tied in. Including the Jumper to ground for the other wire.

All done and taped up.

Excess wire taped to factory harness, again because I sometimes have a problem remembering to plug things in.

WIRE HARNESS

Nothing really ground breaking here. Match up the wire colors. Make the connections however you choose. Crimp caps, butt connectors, solder and tape, or solder and heat shrink. If you have the audiophile system you will need a 2.4k or 3k resistor to put on the amp turnon lead. This will prevent turnon thump. Which is REALLY annoying.

KIT ASSEMBLY

Remember those directions from the beginning. Read them again. One final tip though. You will have to use the 4 spacers that come with the kit. Superglue them to the tabs. Trust me if you ever have to take it out you'll be glad you did. Also the orginal screws aren't long enough. The kit does come with longer screws use them.

THE END

ALL DONE It's beer time!!!!!

The sad part is it took me almost 2 hours to type this and the install took about 40minutes.....

Thanks for the write up...I am doing the exact same install on my 08 SD tomorrow (well I am also adding a sub and amp, xm reciever and review camera). A couple easy questions come to mind....first off was the truck you put the D3 in a Powerstroke, if not would the VSS wire still be the same on my truck (it is Powerstroke.)

Second where did you mount the little light transimitter thing for the Pac SWI-PS? Will mounting it on the dash work?

Finally what is that pad the GPS anntena is sitting on? Is it just there for looks? I dont have it...do I need it or can I just stick the antenna there?

Thanks again for the awsome post!

Thanks for the write up...I am doing the exact same install on my 08 SD tomorrow (well I am also adding a sub and amp, xm reciever and review camera). A couple easy questions come to mind....first off was the truck you put the D3 in a Powerstroke, if not would the VSS wire still be the same on my truck (it is Powerstroke.)

Vss is the same place deisel or nondeisel.

Second where did you mount the little light transimitter thing for the Pac SWI-PS? Will mounting it on the dash work?

There is no light transmitter for a swi-ps. Sounds more like you got a swi-x. If that's the case return it. You need a remote to program it. It also has a longer delay than a swi-ps.

Finally what is that pad the GPS anntena is sitting on? Is it just there for looks? I dont have it...do I need it or can I just stick the antenna there?

It's a metal pad. If you're going to mount the antenna inside on the dash then yes you need that pad. If you bought your d3 new it's in the box.

Thanks again for the awsome post!

No problem.

And I thought I was bored at work this time of year. Jeezz....

 

Second where did you mount the little light transimitter thing for the Pac SWI-PS? Will mounting it on the dash work?

 

There is no light transmitter for a swi-ps. Sounds more like you got a swi-x. If that's the case return it. You need a remote to program it. It also has a longer delay than a swi-ps.

 

Finally what is that pad the GPS anntena is sitting on? Is it just there for looks? I dont have it...do I need it or can I just stick the antenna there?

 

It's a metal pad. If you're going to mount the antenna inside on the dash then yes you need that pad. If you bought your d3 new it's in the box.

I had not opened the SW-PS yet...I just assumed it had light transmitter on it too.

As for the little pad...I had installed the D3 in my Mark LT before getting the Super Duty and I had the anntena on the roof. Now I have no idea where that little pad is. Is it real important or will I be ok just using double sided tape to stick it on the dash?

Should be OK, little metal pad makes GPS reception better.

One more question for you...the resistor you got for the swi-ps, was it a 100 OHM or a 100K OHM? I went to Radio Shack and they did have any 100 OHMs just the 100K OHM.....so I ordered a 100 OHM and picked up a pack of 100K OHMs. The 100Ks look just like the one in your picture and the 100 OHM looks like an square inline fuse almost.

Just trying to verify what I need...I have hooked everything else up and it works great thanks to your post (especially the VSS part!)

100 ohm. Not K. Just ohm. Could also take two 50 ohm and series them. The small ones work just fine.

Now letsall meditate.

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMM.

I'm contemplating swaping out factory head unit in my 08 SD also.

Is there any chance on reusing the Sirius?

I read somewhere that the Ford unit is made by Pioneer and that the plugs match the Z2 - is that true?

I have the factory Sub...do you know of any issues other than getting the correct harness?

Thanks!

I'm contemplating swaping out factory head unit in my 08 SD also.

 

Is there any chance on reusing the Sirius?

Nope. You can reuse the factory antenna with an aftermarket tuner. The factory tuner is mounted above the brake pedal under the driver's side dash. You'll have to remove the plastic shroud around the stoc k antenna plug to plug it into the pioneer sirius tuner.

I read somewhere that the Ford unit is made by Pioneer and that the plugs match the Z2 - is that true?

Nope

I have the factory Sub...do you know of any issues other than getting the correct harness?

Nope, get the right harness and a 2.4k ohm resistor

Thanks!

Do I put the resistor into the amp turnon lead?

Yes, it is blue/white. You need to have it ONLY if you have the factory sub. It prevents it from "popping" every time you turn the system on.

cntrylvr79...where do you live?

East coast.

Close to PA? Is this pretty much the same methods in installing the Z2?

Also, I never installed any resistors before. Do they go directly in the wire...kind of like a fuse for subs?

Close to PA? Is this pretty much the same methods in installing the Z2?

 

Also, I never installed any resistors before. Do they go directly in the wire...kind of like a fuse for subs?

Not really about 15mins from the ocean. As far as resistors yeah they go directly in the wire just like a fuse. And yes everything would be the same for a z2.

Is it possible to get a write up for installing the bluetooth module and rear camera? I am not sure how to run wires to the headliner for the bluetooth and through the cab to the rear. Thanks for the consideration!

If you add an aftermarket sub...do you still need the resistor or will it not pop?

cntrylvr79,

Thanks for this very informative install instruction. I'll be getting a Z2 .

Any points or pictures on how to remove the front panel or the dash.

Thanks

......First things first gonna have to take the stock radio out. Open up the dash kit. Take the instructions out and READ them..........

There's your answer

I took out my PAC-PS today and starting wiring it. The red and black I put right with the radio red and black and you are supposed to use two more wires...white and purple. Cut the purple loop and use one of them with a resistor and connect to the white. Then it says to connect to pin 18 (http://www.pac-audio.com/swixprogrammin ... les&ID=471)

The problem is I have to plug there. Do I have to add another wire?

Also, for the 2 wire bypass, can you ground both wires to the harness ground or does it have to be separate?

Where to connect the wire for the illumination?

Where to connect the wire for the illumination?

To the wire in the harness for it.

Which color? which harness, the one from pioneer or the installation harness?

thanks again