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JasonH

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Posts posted by JasonH

  1. Ahhh,

    I never thought of that, it's the same thing the original Xbox had to keep people from doing what we are doing to the Z1. I know there is a site that shows how to bypass it. I'm looking for it now.
  2. [quote name="Shaka"]Am I correct in assuming that the only way to fix this would be via a modded DVD? Those logos are NOT stored in the HU, but rather on the DVD itself essentially, correct?

    Right now I have nav discs v1.0 and plan to call to get v1.2 immediately. Obviously I can burn a single-layer DVD-R/RW to make custom opening screens and background screens ... but ...

    If you want to "fix" the XM logos, am I reading this correct that you must create an ISO/copy of your NAV DVD, with the fixed DAT file / Images, and ALWAYS have that DVD in to correctly show the new logos?[/quote]

    Thats Correct.
  3. If you wired the dimmer to the Z1's illumination wire, thats your problem.

    The Mustang has Illumination and Dimmer. The dimmer wire is a variable voltage wire controlled by the headlight switch to dim the dashboard lights.

    You want the illumination/headlight wire going to the Z1, not the dimmer.
  4. If someone booted into Knoppix (Downloadable Live Linux CD).
    There would be no chance at harming the HDD, especially if the drive was mounted as read only.

    Knoppix would also read the Z1's EXT2/3 format.
    Assuming of course that that HDD is EXT2/3.
    We know its not FAT or NTFS. So, linux's EXT is the only (major) one left.
  5. Thinking of getting new speakers, anyone know about these?

    Pioneer TS-A6881R
    6"x8" 4-way car speakers

    According to Crutchfield, they are the best speakers that fit my Mustang without custom enclosures/etc.
  6. [quote name="rlith"]It should be specified if it says 0 while moving. It WILL say 0 when you are stopped regardless if the VSS is hooked up correctly or not.[/quote]

    Sorry, I was rushing my previous post.
    I was refering to the total speed pusle counter.
  7. As a fan of Lotus's, I came across this. Sadly, I have only taken a test drive in one.
    He has a very nice step by step guide.
    [url=http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21543]http://www.elisetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21543[/url]
  8. [quote name="infinkc"]i guess ill spend some time making the code and try and program one of these things, do you think 3 pulses? or just one, i need to know the timing of how long to wait also, I will make one up for trial and ill send it to someone on the board to try out after i bench test it since i dont have a z1 yet. If all is working properly i will release the hex file and schematic to the users on this forum.[/quote]

    That would be cool, you could even sell them!

    I have no idea what the actual specifics are. Most people say 3 pulses. I know there is only a 2-3 second time window to send the pulses.
  9. [quote name="infinkc"]pic would be alot cheaper, you can use a pic12c508 or 12c509 that has an internal oscillator, and program it very easily, you would need an transistor for the outputs and a voltage regulator also. total cost would be about $6-8 if that.[/quote]

    I'm not familiar with that, but it sounds like it would work, and its A LOT cheaper!
  10. Hmm, upon further inspection, it looks like you could get a BS1: [url=http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=BS1-IC]http://www.parallax.com/detail.asp?product_id=BS1-IC[/url]

    And a 12 volt relay with a 5 volt control current and that would be it.

    Program to BS1 to send 3 pulses on startup after a short delay and then go to sleep.

    Upon getting power it would run this code:

    [code]PAUSE 3000 (3 seconds)
    HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
    PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
    LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
    PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
    HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
    PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
    LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
    PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
    HIGH 1 (send pulse to relay)
    PAUSE 250 (1/4 second)
    LOW 1 (kill pulse to relay)
    SLEEP (turn off until power is reset)[/code]
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