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Just thought I'd feed back on this. I've finally got hold of a new battery - specifically an AtlasBX AGM AXD26R. Seems to have fixed (read: worked around the problems that Pioneer don't want to admit exist) the problem. I'm not sure whether this is because the battery is AGM (capable of delivering a higher current) and hence doesn't allow the voltage to drop as much while the AVIC is coming out of hibernation or whether any larger battery would have done the job - this is a 75Ah vs the 48Ah that Toyota fitted. It JUST fits the stock battery tray Now if I could just figure out how to so

I think it's some kind of timing issue that causes the problem - possibly interrupting the resume from hibernate the unit does at the wrong time....but I'm guessing after reading g bits of the development thread. Pioneer (at least in the UK) don't seem to care. I have spoken to them several times and they eventually said to email them. I know they received the second email as I got a read receipt but they have not replied. The stock battery is supposed to be quite weak in the BRZ/FRS/GT86 and some people have reported good results by replacing it with something with more oomph. Traces

I've found a software reset in the menu and done that too. Takes longer so presumably is more thorough. Didn't help though. I've even tried formatting the SD Card and copying the music back onto it but it doesn't help. It does "Format Read" to 100% but every time it starts playing 3AM as presumably the first song alphabetically even thought it's within a folder or two. Anyone got any suggestions as to what else to try? Resume used to work, I'm sure of it.

Well, I've tried a reset by pressing the reset button on the front panel while it was switched on. Had to set up most settings again but the problem persists. Is there a deeper reset that might cure this?

I'm playing files off an SD card on an F77-DAB but resume isn't working properly. If I turn the car off, next time I come back, it resumes play from the same place. That's one place, the same place every time. Ie it plays from the same place in the middle of the same song every time I get it. I've already tried removing the SD and checking to see if it contains any files that act like a book mark. Couldn't find any but when I put it back in it now resumes from the start of a different song each time. Anyone know how to fix this? I'm guessing a reset but don't want to do that unless I know

I've unplugged and replugged mine many times where I've been adjusting brackets to get it to fit well. I've also disconnected the battery for a while when I tried to test the battery from my old car....and failed because the terminals were the other way round and the cables not long enough. On the plus side, I'd swear my mpg went up afterwards!

Thanks Blackforge. That's good to know. Probably working around the problem - more capacity is likely to mean the voltage doesn't drop as much - but if it works it's going to be an easier fix than getting Pioneer to admit this even happens by the sound of it. I'll get my plans for a replacement battery back on track and report back when I've got it tested. Got a particular battery in mind and have to tie in collecting it with a visit to family so it could be a while. Thanks for testing this and letting us know. Gareth

I've spoken again to Pioneer UK support. They wanted me to send my unit off to an authorised service centre but given that some of you are experiencing the same issue, I'm fairly sure that if this unit gets put on a bench and 12V applied to both feeds, it'll work fine and be sent back (probably after weeks) with no fault found. They've agreed to have a discussion about it internally and see if there's anything that they can suggest. I've passed on the oscilloscope traces I took and a link to this thread to show others with the same issue. Will let you know what comes from it. Gareth

Thanks for that. It's really helpful to know that it's not just push-to-start that has this problem as Pioneer denied all knowledge of the problem when I spoke to them. Ignition live definitely goes off (0V) while the engine cranks.

Tried the battery from my old car and it doesn't fit. Terminals are reversed and the leads from the car not long enough to reach the other side Will be picking up an AGM battery from someone in the owner's club to try that but have to drive a long way so waiting to tie it in with visiting family. If anyone gets a chance to try another battery I'd love to know whether this is going to help before dropping £70 GBP on a battery that MIGHT fix the problem!

Some issues but not those. I'm running an Android phone so cannot comment on any CarPlay issues. Android Auto works nicely from USB2 and I think CarPlay only works from USB1. Bluetooth working fine with an Android phone. Might be worth resetting the unit by removing the power from the back of it (or disconnecting car battery) and see if that solves your issues. I have had issues with the unit taking a while to start. I have a push-button start in my car and if I start the engine by dropping the clutch and pressing Start, the head unit shows no sign of life for a minute or two befor

Was asking about suitable capacitors on a more general forum and they're of the opinion that my battery may be the issue. That would make some sense as although the engine starts fine, the voltage drop is significant. That ties in with what I've heard that the battery is spec'd only just high enough to work. I'm going to borrow the battery from my old car after I've charged it (charger in post) so will solve two problems. Will let you know if it works...unless anyone me beats me to trying it! Other forum thread for reference: http://www.caraudioforum.com/showthread.php?t=370115

No problem. Just wish it were a solution I was posting! I can't help but think it's something like the head unit thinking the battery is flat and refusing to start until it's convinced the battery is healthy...buy Pioneer say it doesn't do that. I know you can get massive capacitors for when you have ludicrous speakers...is there anything more sensibly sized (and priced) that would smooth the voltage out on either the ACC line or battery live so the head unit doesn't see the voltage drop while the engine is cranking?

Hi all. Just an update. I've checked it out with an oscilloscope and learned....absolutely nothing. Voltage drop like you'd expect when cranking but nothing odd or different that I can see between acc and start. I've just installed a DAB/FM antenna so made two changes which have had zero effect: run the antenna amp from ignition rather than power antenna lead in case it was drawing too much power. Taken both batt and acc power from the Option Connector instead of radio loom. Not a fix but thought it might be helpful to know what doesn't work.

If I push Start without the clutch down so that it turns the ignition comes on without cranking the engine the head unit comes on. I can then start the engine and it comes on again. I've just got hold of an oscilloscope so as soon as I get time to pull it all apart again, I'll get a trace of the voltage of both the permanent live and ignition live while I immediately start the engine. I'll compare it to the Option Connector which lurks just to the left of the radio bay (on a RHD GT86) to see if that would be any better.

Not sure if I'm honest. I know there have been some battery problems on the GT86 and that it's under spec'd. Not sure if the Forester is similarly afflicted. It might help - and if you try it, I'd be interested in the result. It could mask the problem rather than fix it...but if it works, does that matter?! I'll get a reading on the Acc line as soon as I get some kit to do it and see what's happening. A fix may be possible once we know what's happening or otherwise if we can tell Pioneer that it's not just one person having the problem, they may be more willing to investigate.

Thanks Koush. That at least explains why Pioneer were asking about can bus! It's available on the car but not understood by the head unit apparently even with a Maestro unit. It's possible they've done something odd with the Acc wire but the oem unit turned on fine so I'm suspecting it's something odd about the voltage it's seeing as the engine cranks. I've bid on an oscilloscope on ebay to see if I can get a decent idea of what it does. There is an Option connector with an acc line but I'd imagine it'll be the same. Wonder if a relay with the permanent live as supply and acc as trigger would

Just a small update. Spoke to Pioneer support in the UK and they haven't seen this issue before. They say they've got a unit installed in a Subaru BRZ with push-button start and it works fine. Next step is to get a multimeter on the acc line and see exactly what happens when you push 'start'. Not sure if my multimeter will read fast enough though...but worth a shot.

There's certainly a known weakness on UK models. Apparently some of the cells die: http://www.gt86ownersclub.co.uk/forum/flat-battery_topic2085.html On the other hand mine starts first time and doesn't seem to have trouble cranking.

Thanks Blackforge that's really helpful to know. Pioneer here just said it sounded like a faulty unit and to get it changed...but I just had a feeling it would be a waste of time and postage. I thought it was working when not mounted in the dash but could well have been that I was only using Acc when not mounted. I'll try to test acc before engine start and also see if I can get a voltage reading on the Acc line when starting...although I'd expect voltage drop while the engine is cranking. I wonder whether there is anything odd about push-button start (you do have that on your car, right?) th

Thanks 493008. Fairly sure it does as I poked it with a multimeter when I was checking the voltage coming out the power antenna remote on line. Also, it doesn't go through the whole 'Choose you language' setup routing so I'm daily sure it's not that the Acc and Batt leads are swapped.

Has anyone come across this problem before? I've installed into a Toyota GT86 (aka Sion FR-S and Subaru BRZ) and when I start the engine there is a delay of a goo minute before the unit starts...and I'm not talking about being ready, I mean any sign of life at all. After a minute it then gives the Pioneer Navigate splash screen and then the infamous "Loading...". Sometimes though it's either immediate or quite soon. Doesn't seem to be related to battery (GT86 is known for weak battery) as engine starts fist time and also after a long drive (that charges the battery) it isn't always faster.

Hi Epsilonkore. To be honest, I've got to justify paying out for any more kit so I need to know it's going to do more than take up space behind my dash. I'm already in 'trouble' for spending $500 USD on the head unit....at least, that's what my wife seems to have decided it cost! Will be hooking up the VSS once the 28-pin connector comes in from David (www.ae64.com) in the US. USPS are currently juggling it round Miami until they're bored of trying to damage it. Hoping that connecting up the VSS won't cause it to start whinging about not being allowed to doing anything whilst drivin

Thanks for that. So what's on the back of the radio isn't CANBUS but iDatalink or some other data bus then? Given there are no steering wheel controls on my car and the Maestro site says "Gauges, Vehicle Info, Climate Control and Visual Park Assist screens are not supported with the radios below" above all the Pioneer radios, there's probably not much point....or am I missing something?

Hi all. Just in process of fitting an AVIC-F77DAB which I believe is pretty much equivalent to the NEX8100 but with DAB instead of XM - please correct me if I'm wrong! I'm installing into a Toyota GT86 (also known as a Scion FR-S or an FT86 or a Subaru BRZ just to complicate things!). There is a CAN bus connection available in the car and it's two wires: one pink, one blue. According to the wiring diagrams they are 'High' and 'Low'. I've got a 5" cable with the AVIC that plugs into a 4-pin header on the back and presents a white plastic socket with 3 pins (red, white and blue). I spoke