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About KevinH1990

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  1. F900BT Bluetooth Problem

    More data - My phone (an LG) works fine. That seems to make it more likely that there is a glitch in the phone software.
  2. When I attempted to install my wife's Samsungs SCH-u370 cell phone on her F900BT I experienced the following problem: 1. The phone and F900BT recognize each other and synch up. 2. Before I can actully do anything such as make a call, the phone cycles off 3. After a minute or two, the phone cycles back on and the process starts over I have updated the operating system and the Bluetooth software (Version HW100-SW330 RC3) Has anyone else experienced this and have a suggested solution? Thanks
  3. U310 BT in an 06 Honda Civic

    I recently completed the installation of a U310BT in my daughters 06 Civic EX. I bought the unit used on Craigslist. Because the EX includes a steering wheel control, I used a PAC SWI-PS to provide an interface. There are some good instructions on the Honda Civic web site that will be of great assistance to anyone who wants to update their Civic. Here's are a couple of links that I used: http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/audio/37564-diy-aftermarket-radio-install-ex.html http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/audio/65345-diy-pac-steering-wheel-interface.html I ended up using a Garmin microphone for the blue tooth. It is installed behind the small grill to the right of the steering column and to the left of the U310. While it is relatively low in the dash, it picks up voices well. Now I'm looking for a good used unit for my wife's 2005 Highlander. I'm particularly interested in an F series model. Unfortunately, I cannot find a good source for installation instructions on a Highlander.
  4. How Long Is the CDI200 Interface Cable?

    You're right about that. I looked right at that page and missed it. I'm glad I'm getting help with the installation. If I'm making that kind of mistake, I'd probably put it in upside down.
  5. I'm planning my installation and I want to know how long CDI200 cable is so I can figure out where to hide my iPod. The Pioneer web site and the posts I found by searching don't state the length. Thanks
  6. D-3 Installation In Porsche Boxster

    I didn't write it up. I plagiarized from someone else and was wondering if anyone could verify or add to the instructions. By the way, low mileage used Boxsters are quite affordable - less than a new Accord. Maintenance and repair costs are higher.
  7. D-3 Installation In Porsche Boxster

    I found some instructions on a Boxster forum for installing an Avic D-3. I was wondering if someone could check them out and see if they are workable or if there are any suggested improvements. Unfortunately, the instructions are for a car with the Bose sound system. I don't have a Bose, and I suspect he has an extra piece of equipment I don't need. Also, the instructions for securing the unit to the car appear inadequate. If there are any installers in the Richmond Virginia area who would like to work on this, please let me know. This is for a Pioneer AVIC-D3 to be installed in an '02 BoxS with the Bose upgrade. I bought my stuff from Crutchfield and the salesman (over the internet) filled my shopping cart with all of the harnesses and adapters necessary. Here's a list of what I bought for the install: Crutchfield: Pioneer AVIC-D3 PAC OEM-2 Universal Interface (wiring harness #1) Pioneer CD-i200 iPod interface Volkswagon Wire Harness Receiver, 1987 and up (wiring harness #2) Motorola/Male to Volk/Female A Antenna Adapter Universal OEM DIN Tool Pair For select VW and Mercedes models (for pulling out the factory headunit) Auto parts stores: 3 boxes of wiring caps (I'm not great with solder, so these worked well) GM truck/stereo head unit adapter (raw materials) Torx (star) sockets sheet of aluminum extra screws (same size as ones that came with headunit, but longer) Tools I already had: Dremel w/cutting discs Torx (star) bits wire crimper/stripper various screw drivers and pliers electric drill Swifer duster handle (blue plastic handle, perfect for hiding wires) NOTE: I disconnected the car battery before doing any of this. Make sure you leave your hood open so you can connect it again. The VW harness plugs directly into the OEM harness already in the dash. The PAC harness connects the Nav unit wires to the VW harness. It's a lot of wires and harnesses in the small space but it fits (barely). STEP 1: The first thing I did was to connect the VW wire harness to the PAC OEM 2 harness. You can do this on at your table while watching TV. Crutchfield sent directions on which wires go where on both harnesses. I also copied the schematic that was on top of my CR-220 headunit. That way you can match up all of the power wires and the speaker wires correctly. NOTE: The wire colors matched up exactly except for the solid red and solid yellow. Those were switched on the Porsche plugs. These are the switched power and the always on power. STEP 2: Next I connected the PAC 2 harness to the headunit wires. The wires all match up just like the pictures/directions show. Make sure you follow the directions in the Pioneer install sheet as well as the PAC 2 sheet. You'll have a few extra wires, so make sure you tape these off so they don't ground out. NOTE: It is VERY important that you connect the amp signal wire from the headunit to the one on the VW harness. Without this your amp won't turn on and you'll get no sound. STEP 3: Pull out your OEM headunit. Unplug it. I had cupholders above mine. Pull those out, too. Pop off the side pieces, the ones with the convertible top switch, the rain sensor knob, etc. Unplug all of those switches. On the rain sensor knob you'll have a wire that grounds to the dash. Carefully pull that off. Now remove the entire front. There are a couple of Torx screws holding it in. Don't drop them. The whole unit, even the vents, comes out. Now take out the metal holder for the OEM headunit. STEP 4: Here's the hard part, the cutting. I did this on a table next to my car. You've got to cut the middle plastic piece out to fit the new unit. Now prop up the dash piece so it is sitting like it would in the dash. Slide the new unit in and prop it up as well. Mark on the plastic sides of the dash piece where the screws will go. Drill the holes, and screw in the screws. NOTE: The hole drilling has to be perfect. Make sure the new unit is positioned EXACTLY how you'd want it in the dash. STEP 5: (this step I did after the install, but I wish I did it during) Using your own creativity you'll have to use the aluminum sheet and fabricate something that'll hold the new unit still inside the dash. Use the mounting points in the car that were used for that holder you took out that held the OEM unit. The new unit is already being held in by the plastic of the dash piece, but that's not enough, you want something sturdier. NOTE: My new unit sits directly on the floor of the dash (metal sheet you'll see in there). I do not have it suspended by the dash piece or the holder I fabricated. I did it this way because that sucker is heavy and I wanted it as stable as I could get it. STEP 6: Now it is time to run the various wires from the new unit to the car. Run the wires behind the dash and out the driver's side into the foot well. Plenty of room to work with. A: You'll need to attach the speed pulse sensor. This wire is right on the the OEM harness that is in the dash. You'll see it labeled as speed volume sensor or something like that. Connect the two. B: Next is the reverse light wire. There is no need to run the wire all the way to your tail light. Porsche was smart enough to put the wire under the driver's seat. Remove the seat (with the torx sockets) and you'll see a bundle of wires under it on the floor. The one you're looking for isn't attachd to anything and is blue/black. I hid the wire under the carpet on the side of the driver's footwell. Then under the rear console. Then I had it come out the back and behind the seat. C: The Parking Brake wire is next. You can attach it to your hand brake, but I decided to ground it out, which makes the system think the brake is always on. Just find any screw attached to the chassis and this will work. I used one under the driver's side dash near the fuse box. D: Put the Motorola Volk antenna adapter into the new unit. Then plug the OEM antenna onto the adapter. E: You'll have a lot of RCA cables from the new unit unused. Make sure this part of the harness is plugged into the new unit (the amp wire is on here) but the rest of the wires/cables won't be used. STEP 7: Next I ran the GPS antenna out. I went backwards, mounting the antenna on the dash, then ran the wire back. There is a metal square that attaches to the dash, and the ant. is magnetically attached to the square. I put these about 6" to the right (passenger's side) of the IR sensor in the middle. I ran the wire in the crack between the dash and the windshield using the Swifer handle to push it into the crack. The the wire went around the A-frame, down the outside of the plastic next to the door, and under the passenger dash. I then routed it through the crack between my lower dash and upper dash and back through the space on the driver's side of the dash where all of the other wires are. STEP 8: The iPod cable is next. I ran that from the same hole everything else is coming from, and had it parallel the reverse light wire. Using the Swifer duster handle is great to push the wire into the little spaces to hide it. Then I ran it up the back of the box at the back of the rear console and into the box. You can drill a hole if you want, but I hate cutting my Porsche bits, so I ran the cable under the lid near the hinge. You'll see a space next to the hinge that's big enough for the cable to run through. The iPod sorta hangs in the box, but I'm working on a way to secure it. So far no trouble because I have a bunch of stuff in the box that the iPod sits on. STEP 9: The faceplate. The new unit comes with a plastic frame. I used this and the pieces from the GM truck kit to make a faceplate. I ended up cutting the bottom of the new unit's frame so it would sit flush with the dash. I used the GM truck kit pieces to fill in the gap at the top between the frame and the vents. You'll have to do a lot of cutting and fitting to make it look good. This probably took longer than any other step. STEP 10: Put the dash back together. Make sure everything is plugged in: Radio antenna GPS antenna iPod cable Both wiring harnesses (the one connected to the PAC 2 and the one with all of the RCA cables) Carefully slide the harnesses back so they don't get in the way of the new unit. This part is tricky, so take your time. Next plug all of the switches back, make sure to put the rain sensor knob wire back on the dash chassis. Then pop all the pieces back on. The side pieces should hold the new unit's plastic frame in place. STEP 11: Reconnect the car battery. If you did everything right your new unit should turn on once you turn the key to the ACC position. Follow the set up instructions in the owner's manual for the nav system and you're all set.