drober30

I just read the insert that came with the cable, it wants the micro HDMI end plugged into the "Output" and the full size HDMI plugged into an "Input". Could this be why I have no video? Does this indicate a directional cable (active)?

I cant get the HDMI source to turn on, I have the WT76NEX, it's only three months old. I pulled the radio to make sure cable was connected, I'm using a brand new cable. I tried using my iPhone with an Apple Lightning Digital AV Adapter and I also tried an Amazon Fire TV Stick. On the iPhone, I made sure YouTube and Netflix was playing so it would see a source connected.

I'm left thinking it can only be a bad HDMI cable (how likely when it was brand new out of the box) or bad HDMI port in the 76NEX.

I've seen other posts regarding HDMI not working but I did not see any fix or resolution that was posted.

Has anybody had this issue and figured out a fix or found out the radio was bad?

 

** Update** 

I talked to pioneer and the support person said it was documented that Best Buy's Branded cables (Insignia / Rocket fish) are known not to work. I just ordered a cable off Amazon that states "Bi-Directional" in the description so I'm hopeful this is the fix. I will post my results.

**2nd Update**

It was the cable. The new Bi-Directional cable I ordered off Amazon activated the HDMI source icon on my 76NEX radio and allowed me to watch YouTube and use an Amazon Firestick. I did have problems getting Netflix to play using the iPhone and Apple Digital AV Adapter but I probably wont spend much time trouble shooting that and just stick with the Firestick.

 

Thanks for the info!

Is there a way to calibrate the screen on a Z1?

 

Every time I touch a button on thee screen, the button next to it is what activates.

Same interface, just updated the icons for each individual channel

 

Same interace ok... do you know if they added appealing color or did they just change the icon/logo for the channels

I know there are mixed reviews on the BT for the Z1. However, my view is it sucks! I've tried everything and it just doesn’t sound good on the other persons end.

 

Is this a BT adapter problem or a Z1 problem?

 

Is there any rumors of a nee module due out or being developed?

Does the new software update change the look of the Z1?

 

I am really tired of the drab dark blue screen and the plain XM radio buttons.

 

It would be nice if it had more of an XP/Vista type pleasing look.

 

I have not seen a Z2 in person but I think there was a D3 that I saw that had better lokoing XM interface?

I got the update to work, now the z2 doesnt recognize the back up camera. How can I get it to work again?

 

Thanks

 

Ive read of this before, I believe someone else had to reassign the output to the camera and then it worked again. If memory serves, the low level reset causes the z2 to no longer have the camera assigned to that output. Should be in your settings somewhere.

 

Pretty sure thats how it went. I think that post is somewhere in this thread too.

 

Correct, a reset will cause the camera to not show. You have to turn it back on in the AV settings.

Huh...one of those should have been fix the crappy Bluetooth!!!

 

I agree the BT issue should have been in the poll. That is the item I would like fixed. I have not applied the firmware fix yet because it will disable my current bypass and I have not read that its a real good fix.

 

I vote BT.

 

If you add it to the poll I will select it.

 

Companies should wake up and realize how lucky they are to have FREE testers like us that test their product in uncontrolled environments to uncover real bugs. Heck, we even pay $2k+ to test their products and report back to them! They should treat us very nicely and provide us feedback

As for the DVD portion, I don't know for sure that it would just be a software change. The D3 and 5900DVD are both $1000 and they play mp3 DVD so I think its just an outdated drive in the Z1/2

This is a legal decision by Pioneer. I read where they stated they could not control piracy if they supported MP3s on the Z1. Ripping an audio CD they can claim the owner must have had an original. They simply don't want to get sued by the RIAA.

 

How would this differ from all the MP3 players that are on the market?

 

The Pioneer inno XM radio plays MP3... again how would this differ?

 

I think they are holding off on this feature to be a selling point on a newer model. Should have been the Z2 but I guess its going to be the Z3.

So Pioneer is going to release a newer model (Z2) with the same crappy Bluetooth problems and slow iPod interface?

 

How very disappointing!

 

If the Z2 "completely" fixed the BT and iPod problem and allowed MP3 storage I would consider upgrading.

Wow. I have exactly the same problem (same vehicle, deck and everything). Would you mind putting up a bit of a diagram on this? To splice a wire I thought you would have two wires to connect. Are you saying that the fix was just to bare the wire and twist the 2 together? This just dos not seem to be much of a differnece compared to tapping the wire.

 

Thanks for your help.

 

I'm not sure if you are asking me, referring to my post?

 

But just in case, when I say cut, I mean sever the factory wire in two, then attach one of the ends to the PAC module.

 

When I say strip back the insulation and twist the wire onto it, then there is no cutting involved. You strip back some of the insulation on the factory wire to expose the copper and just twist the PAC wire around it.

 

I had mine installed and this is the information the installer passed onto me.

I'm very interested in installing the new bluetooth fix, but been waiting to see how the testing shakes out. I have a March 6th unit also, but don't have the bybass installed. Using the lights flash when I want to bybass. Do you see any problem with this still working OK after the bluetooth fix installed.

 

If you apply the firmware fix then you will not be able to flash your lights and bypass the lock out.

 

You will need to ground the two wires to bypass the lockout. There are easy to find instructions posted.

I ordered my disc from Pioneer. It took some time on the phone. Everyone I spoke to new exactly what I was after but they weren’t the department to send it to me. So after being transferred around a few times I ended up getting the disc sent to me from the parts department.

 

One of the people I spoke to said the only thing this firmware upgrade is meant to fix is the echoing of the Bluetooth.

 

I should have mine in a week as it is being sent UPS ground. This was free. If you call Pioneer for the disc, you have to emphasis to the parts person that this is the firmware update not the map update for the AVIC Z1

and of course you connect the single wire of the car to the swi then program it. how else where they installing this thing?

 

I think they spliced and twisted the PAC wire into my factory wire for the steering wheel control.

 

I don’t know if the directions say to "cut" the factory wire but even it does say "cut" without a side note that it must really be cut or problems will occur, many probably strip back the insulation and twist the wire on.

 

Because this happened in two different trailblazers I own I thought it was for sure a valid fix.

Ok... I have two trailblazers. Both have had this problem. After my dealer spent lots of time reprogramming and such, the real fix was this:

 

The factory steering wheel control wire needs to be "cut" and "spliced" into the steering wheel control mudule.

 

If you just "tap" into the wire, the factory system will send signals that will cause the radio to change stations radomly.

 

Once my dealer did this I have had no problems!

 

This was the solution that was worked out with PAC technicle support.

 

By the way, I have an 07 SS too! Love my truck!

Good Luck!

I have a i580 and it works perfect with both of my Z1's.

I agree! Enough time has passed for there to be a firmware update. Even if its not the "fix all" update we are all hoping for.

The MSRP of this unit should require Pioneer to have technicians working around the clock for a Bluetooth fix.

I have seen and been party to class action lawsuits for less.

I had mine installed in the passenger air vent. Of course blocking the air duct with black tape. This allows for a stealth install of the microphone. Works great for navigation! Bluetooth just sucks on this unit anyway!

You can ground the wires yourself after the install. I had never installed a radio before but I wired in DB circuit after I had my unit installed.

The hardest thing is knowing how to take the dash apart to get at the radio. Some are easier than others but your installer can tell you how to do it.

[quote name="PaisanNYC"]any online retailers for these? I tried google and only came up with British UK sites :([/quote]

It's suppose to be a dealer installed item only. Warranty only valid if installed by an authorized dealer.

You can find them on ebay.

As far as the new 1 mile range model it's called the 5900 model. Probably still a little hard to find. DEI web site has not even been updated.

[quote name="dwhitley0381"]I had this installed and its great if installed right.... you get a notification to the remote with vibrate and beeping if your car is being broken in to.. I have tested it and it works about to a little over a quater of a mile.... My Truck is never that far from me.. I live in Houston, Tx and hell you can park at a restrurant and they will steal your stuff.... not anymore though..[/quote]

I have had this alarm in my cars since they came out. On three occasions it warned me when someone hit my car backing out of their parking spot.

One of those times I was in Subway eating and my remote started beeping. I ran outside to see a pickup backing out next to my car and starting to pull away. I ran up and pounded on the window. Grandma was letting her nephew "new driver" drive her pickup hit my car pulling out. They were just going to leave! I stopped them told them they were leaving the scene of an accident and I was calling the cops! I was more pissed that they were just taking off. She begged me not to call because he was a new driver and offered me $100.00. The marks on my "lease" vehicle could easily be rubbed out so I took the money and let them go.

I will not be without the Viper alarm on any of my cars!

The new one that just is hitting stores now has a true and tested 1 mile range! I will see if it does, mine is being upgraded Saturday.

Your email pointed me to the install instructions I used which is the link I included in my previous post.

Should I disconnect the light green wire from the Z1 and tape it up. If this wire is grounded or such, would it stop your circuit from working?

The connection menu states parking brake is "on"

Also I do have the canbus in my charger.

[quote name="ducatiboy"]Well, it depends on what the instructions are for your flasher. Did I send you instructions with it? There are general instructions, but with a recent change in design and software it can be slightly different. If you want you can email me directly from the contact list on [url=http://www.sminntech.com]www.sminntech.com[/url]. But you will want to remove all relays and diodes and the TR7's and hook up my circuit just like it says in the instructions I sent you. You won't need any of the Tr7's, diodes, or relays.[/quote]

I did not receive any instructions. Just the white envelope with the disclamer on it.

I followed the directions on your website [url=http://www.sminntech.com/z1fcinstall.html]http://www.sminntech.com/z1fcinstall.html[/url]

I thought it was pretty straight forward.

I removed the red wires of the TR7's and added your RED wires in it's place.

I removed the black wires from the TR7's and added your BlACK wires in it's place.

I removed the blue wires from TR7 and added ORANGE in it's place. (Removed diod too)

I removed the green wire from the 5 second TR7 from the amp turn on and added nothing in its place.

I removed the green wire from the 20 second TR7 and added the WHITE wire in it's place.

I did nothing with the light green wire comming from the Z1. This is attached to some other wires, I think ground but I have to look closer.

Your circuit has a white paint spot on it if that means anything.

I am replacing the 2 TR7's with DB Flasher unit. I need help with one of the green wires.

What do I do with the one that goes to the amp turn on? Do I just remove it?

It looks like it spliced into the blue/white wire that is coming from the Z1.

Also it does look like there might be a diod in line for the blue wires, can I leave it with DB circuit?


If wired properly you should have the following scenario:
Black wires from both TR7’s are going to chassis ground.
Red wires from both TR7’s are going to switched positive.
Blue wires from both TR7’s are going to Z1 dimmer wire with diode inline (do not connect – side [unstriped] of diode’s together!)
Green wire from 5 second pulse programming is going to Z1 amp turn on wire
Green wire from 20 second delay programming is going to car dimmer wire - I've personally put a diode on this wire too