20yardendzones

I finally found some time to try to hook the Boyo camera up to the D3 and am having some issues. When I installed the D3, hooked up the input to the brown RCA, ran the reverse wire to the driver's side and the camera and wiring to the back of the SUV. Today, I spliced purple reverse wire to the brown/blue wire in the bundle under the hood release panel. When I start the truck, I get the "things might be reversed" message instead of the splash screen. This doens't go away and I have to push the map button after a while to get back to the map and/or av screens. Putting it into reverse doesn

Well, I answered my own question. Yes you can. Metra sells a Mazda Tribute kit that snaps into place. The whole installation took about 20 minutes from start to finish (not counting the soldering of the AVIC harness to the 3rd party Mazda end). Worked right the first time, including bypass. Looks good too.

I want to put a D3 into my wife's 05 Tribute. It has the dreaded Ford/Mazda "multi hole" release mount. The local big box store tells me that there is no double din mount available for the truck but the Metra 99-7505 seems to fit according to Crutchfield and Metra. Does anyone know if this will fit? Has anyone done an install? Is the install straight forward? I put a D3 in my global warming 06 Explorer Limited with no problems and the dash disassembly is much harder.

Last question on this = is there another option other than drilling another hole? If you were anywhere near Alberta, I would have you do the install!

I was hoping to use the hole where the light wire came through and avoid drilling another one behind the plate. I had the inner panel partially off but stopped before I got too far. Once into the lift gate, can the wire be run through with the others going through the black "hose" into the roof and then down back down through the side panel and along the floor?

Excellent - thanks for the help! I think I should be able to handle the VSS wire and the HU install. The only thing I need to figure out now is how to get the Boyo camera feed through the tailgate and into the cabin. I started to take off the license plate light assembly with the big Ford logo but couldn't get it to unsnap after taking out the four bolts. I didn't want to force it as I could see it snapping off. I might have to take it to a local installer to have that done.

Thanks as always misfit - is removal as simple as unscrewing the hood release and "popping" the panel off. Sorry if this is a stupid question, but this is a DIY project for me and I haven't disassembled anything newer than my 76 Classic Bronco - which has about 10 wires in the whole thing. Gotta love the AM radio with no buttons, just a tuning knob!

Before getting too carried away, I just need to clarify a couple of things. 1. Is the "driver kick" the plastic panel on the bottom left sde of the driver side that is partially held in by the hood release and/or 2. Is the SJB the grey rectangular box way up under the dash on the left side of the driver side. If so, does the cover pop off easily? Thanks in advance.

As I am soldering my wires for the D3 install and thinking of putting another unit in my wife's new truck, I am watching a blu-ray movie on the plasma. Then it hit me - why am I sinking a fair bit of money on an old DVD format when I am only buying new movies in blu-ray. I guess I could put a PS-3 into the Explorer and input the downconverted video into the D3. Does anyone think that manufacturers will soon offer a high end player/Nav system with a blu-ray drive?

I appreciate all the help that I have received with my AVIC installation so please forgive some more questions: 1. I have followed the instructions for cutting the purple wire, soldering a resistor to one end and then the other end of the resistor to the white wire. It says to connect the white wire from the SWC to pin 18 in the car. Where is this "connector" under the dash? It must have something to do with the wires from the steering wheel. Does this mean I need to attach the white wire to a wire that goes into pin 18? 2. The instructions then say to "connect pin 19 blue/white

I have found that cranking a small zip tie around the wire tap helps to keep the connections tight and reduces the chance that it will pop open over time. I still like to solder the speaker and power wires but sometimes it is much easier to use taps on the VSS, reverse, etc. wires Often the are also easier to get at if needed.

Thanks for the confirmations. I wish it was more idiot proof!

Has anyone else installed the SWI-PS unit on a 06 Explorer or 07 Edge? The instructions have me cutting the purple wire, attaching a resistor to one end, attaching it to the white wire and then to pin 18 then connecting another vehicle wire to the ground. Does all of this sound right?

I am still trying to get a full day to install my D3 in my Explorer but have slowly whittled away at installing the bluetooth and ipod modules, steering wheel controls and rear DVD unit "saver". I pulled the trigger on a Boyo rear view camera and decided to run the reverse sensor wire from the back to the front. Long story, but looking in the back it looks like a real b1tch to access the wire on the reverse light in the taillight. Is there an easier access to the wire going back there or another one near the front?

This might be another dumb question but does the GPS antenna need to placed with the top facing up? I was thinking of sticking the metal sheet to the inside of the windshield behind the rear view mirror, which would point the magnetic side/bottom facing the sky. Would the signal still be strong enough?

I have the PIE FRD04-DVD unit that is supposed to power the unit and allow the sound to come through the speakers through the A/V1 input on the D3. Have you used this unit before? As long as the rear DVD unit works and the sound comes through the headphones I will be happy - the audio back through the system speakers will be "gravy" I am tired of hearing Pokemon over and over again! I have also added a TERK A/V extention unit to the rear unit's input and run it back to the back of the center console to attach a GameCube. I could add a simple video switcher to the rear A/V output of

Thanks misfit! I will see how the illumination works on the harness first before digging in any further. I was hoping the VSS wire would be on the radio harness as I can alter the volume with road speed. I was really looking forward to getting things installed on the holiday tomorrow but now my wife needs to take our 5 year old and his 3 year old cousin on a road trip on Saturday and wants my truck for the rear DVD entertainment. I don't dare have it ripped half apart and run into a snag before they go.

Another dumb question - what happens when there is no ashtray/lighter to tap into? Did you find a VSS wire on the harness that is related to the volume speed control?

This might sound dumb, but there was matching illumination wire on the Crutchfield harness that I was going to solder to the AVIC illumination wire. Is that correct? Also is there a VSS on the Ford radio harness that I can tap into?

The door speakers and subwoofer should be totally independent "circuits". I received two separate wiring harnesses from Crutchfied. The main one has the power, ground, lighting, door speakers, etc. The sub-woofer harness has two (red/white) RCA plugs and two blue/white power wires. This harness is to plug into the factory harness running to the subwoofer/amp unit and is connected to the AVIC. It is between these amplifier wires and the blue/white wire on the AVIC "RCA" harness that misfit suggests the capacitor is added. As far as I know, this is what the sequence looks like: AVIC

Thanks, I was worried about having to use a circuit board or something. I wanted to plan out the wiring and components before ripping the truck apart. I don't know what I would have done without the forum.

So I went to Radio Shack and picked up a 3.3k resistor (orange,orange,red). This might be stupid, but is this the process I need to follow to do things right 1. Solder the two blue/white wires from the Crutchfield subwoofer harness to the long wire on one end (or do I need two resistors - one for each of the wires) and 2. Solder the single blue/white wire from the AVIC harness to the long wire on the other. Do I cut the long wires down any? Sorry if these are dumb questions, I have never dealt with a resistor before.

I will do that - thanks again for your help.

Thanks for the quick reply misfit. This might be a stupid question but where would I find such a thing and what is the process?