CatchMeIfYouCan631

He had the unit since Pre-update with mods, the 2.0 erased them, he wants to know how to mod post 2.0

My 9 Speakers worked fine when I switched out the HU's, as long as that one amp powers all 9 speakers and you hook up the amp trigger wire, they should all work, no reason otherwise...unles there's something about Saab's I'm unaware of.

Get it if it fits your needs, dude. And it's no harder to install than any other radio, pay someone if you have no idea what you're doing. And the Kenwood bypass isn't on this site, you'd have to goto Kenwood411.com for that

it is easy to do the wire bypass. Do a search and look for F Series mods and look for bypass. If I remember correctly it was just move the yellow wire in the harness to the slot above the position it is in when purchased but there are pics in the mods section to go by.

 

Good Luck

FWIW, you just described the D Series bypass. Let him find the right information himself, no one here deserves to be spoonfed info.

You could've searched before making this thread and completely avoided Kerosene being a "dick" to you, but IMO, you're the dick for making another useless thread....That's just my 2 cents though..don't brick your unit

APL Image.res AV......

That's awesome. Only question I have is why can't this be done on the 700, 900, or 90?

try changing the antenna setting in AV Settings, between power and radio.

Looks good, Jason. Only suggestion I'd make is keep the recent forum activity somewhere on the homepage, but other than that it looks a lot more organized.

Read the comparisons and make your own decision, no one here can answer that question better than yourself.

There are mixed feelings about the F Series, people either hate it or love it. My suggestion would be to go to your local audio shop and fiddle with the display models before purchasing.

Those options are grayed out due to the safety feature on the unit. Bypass the unit and it'll all work fine

IDK man, I find it hard to believe that you got 3 faulty ones in a row. I would double check all your wiring before the new one goes in.

Ya but you don't even know if the thing will power up. Better off finding a refurb for cheap, at least then you know it'll power up OK

$150 for the broken unit (right now)

$ 50 for the power harness

$ 50 for the connecter harness

$200 for Pioneer repair.

$450 Total.

Fail.

I just installed one of those in an 02 Grand Am, no problems at all. Double check you're wiring, because there's no way you got 3 defective GMOS's in a row.

Vehicle?

The FAQ section has a good list of completed mods, check there.

How close did you cut the wires to the plug? If you can re-attach the factory plug on, DO IT. And solder shrink-wrap the connections.

If you can't do that, you're gonna have to buy a Metra 71-1721 Male lead harness, wire that up, then buy a Metra 70-1721 Wiring harness for the radio.

In the future, NEVER cut the factory plugs for an aftermarket product. The harness costs between $10-$15, and they're worth every penny.

Are you using a Wiring harness? From the way you're descrbing things it seems like your tring to hardwire it. The wiring harness should be able to tell you which wire is which.

I wouldn't be surprised if that ebay method is the same as the software bypass on this site..

I think that Thomas should patent these quickly!

 

I can see it now, in about 4 weeks Pioneer has "Upgrade Knobs" on their website for $49.95 each!!!!

I suggested this about a month ago. Tom get on that patenting lol

However even if Pioneer did make one and it was out of plastic, Tom can still sell his because:

a) There's pages of proof that e made them before Pioneer did

His would be made out of real metal as opposed to Pioneer's crappy plastic China ones.

Mazda makes a Mazdaspeed body kit for the RX-8, front bumper costs $1500. Stores on eBay have the same exact thing for cheaper with a different name and there's been no conflict.

I don't want to make the crosshair transparent. It serves its purpose when i need it to do whatever, but for example when I delete a route, a crosshair will pop upon the destination I just deleted. Sometimes when I press MAP, the crosshair is on a random location. It's not the most annoying thing in the world for me, but it does get on my nerves here and there.

Skicrave, did you kow there's a fix for this now? It uses the 3D option but there's a way to make it a 2D heading north, and it's been confirmed by a couple members.

GROUND IT TO ANY METAL OBJECT CONNECTED TO THE CAR.

Not all pieces of metal inside the dash are good grounds, hence my post above.

Maybe it depends on WHERE he grounded it too, which the OP did not specify. Could be a weak ground.

As for the mute wire / parking brake wire dispute, the bypass will not work if EITHER of those 2 are not grounded, and since he's able to watch movies it's safe to conclude that they both are grounded, and since he checked them over and over, it's even safer.