1loudls

i would crank your times up a bit, and it should fix the problem. I dont think that it is so much the timing between each step that is the problem (because when hooked up to an actual hand brake, you can preform the sequence pretty fast and it still work) I think the change in the firmware just need to see the sequence start a little later. which while aggressively long, with the original posts instructions i have seen work fine with the newest* firmware (*I would have to double check on the version # to make sure that it is the newest, as we had to ship all of our stock back to pioneer a little while ago for their recall, and we just started getting them back about two weeks ago)

if your having any problems with the SD card then you definitely have either a software or hardware problem with you avic, updating is definitely a good place to start.

you will kick yourself in the ass every time you turn on a cheap Chinese knock off,

 

well until it breaks anyway.

if you used the correct harness (gmos 01) it gets the illum signal through the data bus and converts it over to a normal wire the radio understand, if you did not use an integration module, then you will need to find a light bulb on the dash that you can tap into the positive wire.

 

other wise the only other spot i know for sure that will work is the factory parking light wires (only if the parking lights do not come on normally during the day)

from DirecTechs:

 

positive parking lights - brown (L), brown/white ® @ underhood fuse box, red 32 pin plug, pins F6 and C6

 

also Bluetooth strength is determined by the phone, some are good, some are terrible. not really anyway to make it better unless there is a Bluetooth update available for you phone

judging from your sig, i would say that you have more than good enough equipment to have very good sound, so keep on enjoying it and dont worry about the audiophiles that just want to point out what they think your doing wrong.

 

 

 

 

also i must say, that mossberg install sounds aggressive! lol I bet that works better than a viper alarm!!!

yup, sounds like you over wrote you software mod, looks like its time to either redo it or just do a hardware bypass.

 

so easy a caveman could do it!

no.

 

 

it is normal, it will do the same with any MP3 on flash media

pioneers are know for developing a bad signal ground or blowing pico fuses that can/will cause a bad alternator whine.

 

 

 

been covered many many time with a few different fixes.

your problem is that the installer hooked up the antenna wire instead of hooking up the amp turn on wire.

 

you old saab probably did not have the premium sound system (factory amp) and your new one does (this is why every thing is much louder now)

 

since the wire from the radio is only turning on the amp when the radio is on, your amp is not getting turned on for any other source. this is why there is two different wires at the back of the radio.

 

the blue wire is to turn on a power antenna, 12v is only sent down the wire when the radio is the active source so that a power antenna is not up the rest of the time (so it doesn't get broken off when going through a car wash)

 

the blue/white wire is the amp turn on wire, it has 12v going down the wire all the time the radio is powered up to keep any amps on no matter what the source is.

 

this is a simply mistake with a simple fix, resetting the unit is a waste of time, this has also been covered about 20-30 different times, I'm kinda surprised that with 15 replys, no one has even thought of this. weak sauce guys.

 

so you can either take the unit out and wire it correctly, or go into the menu and change the setting for "antenna" from "radio" to "power"

 

or better yet, take it back and slap the installer for not properly testing it out before returning the car to you, if you bitch enough, you might even get compensated for their rookie ass move.

 

 

 

DO NOT TRY TO MESS WITH THE SOFTWARE UNTIL THIS HAS BEEN VERIFIED (i cant really believe this was even suggested)

pioneers website.

 

its where you get the update and the instructions to use it

no and no.

personally, if they both cost near the same price, i would rather have the one that is the most flexible and can be reprogrammed if needed (or re-purposed later if needed). the important factor is that they have changed what the radio need to "see" before with one of their models, so they very well could do it again. IMHO

 

 

 

bottom line is that if someone cant figure it out, I have to question whether or not they should be doing their own work.

 

 

it is nice to have options, so glad it does work.

OP: i would like to apologize for turning your thread into a circus.

Thanks for repeating what I already said. As for your point, you're on a forum for a hi-fi head unit in a car.

no, I am on a forum for a decent, well featured, and good valued head unit for cars, if i was on a forum for "high fidelity" units we would be talking about McIntosh, Definitive Technology, Arc Audio... not pioneer (which is why pioneer market all of their high end stuff under different names, such as elite, premier, and stage 4) for the record, the quality of sound took a major hit when i went from having an Alpine radio to an AVIC, its not even close. however the AVIC was about half the price of an Alpine that does all the same stuff, so the trade off was worth it to me.

 

Your point makes no sense.

so then since i just repeated you, your point makes no sense and that makes you look like a fool. also which part of that statement do you need broken down so that you can wrap you little mind around it.

 

You spend all that money for what purpose? Especially on newer cars the functionality is already there.

you might want to rephrase that to SOME new cars come with all that functionality, there is a shit ton of cars out there that are still basic as hell, and maybe somebody just wants have a nav system built into their car, or add bluetooth, or maybe their OEM nav system took a shit and they dont want to spend $2k on a new one. who the hell are you to look down on somebody because their purpose is a million miles away from yours.

 

Then you have no idea what you're talking about.

yep, your right there. every audiophile I know looks for things like top notch D/A converters (which the avics dont have) and use sources such as lossless audio. MP3 is a compression, so if you were so worried about perfect sound, i doubt that you would be focusing on a source like an SD card loaded with MP3's off all sorts of different compression rates. but then again, I'm just talking out of my ass and have no clue how this stuff works.

 

Audio quality will probably be better over auxiliary.

from my experience, most people who use words like "probably" are just guessing and dont really know for sure. not to mention that then you are totally relying on the D/A converter in the phone, which may be good or it may be rubbish, then converting it to analog and sending it through a cable that could pick up interference, not to mention having to deal with multiple audio level controls and getting them matched up correctly. oh yeah, not to mention that some people just dont want a bunch of damn cables running all over their dashboards.

 

 

also who the hell are you to come into somebody's thread and shit in his cornflakes? its his money and if it sounds great to him, then he should be able to enjoy his purchase, and he might want to let a few more people know something that they might not have. plain and simple, dont be an asshat for no reason.

i have never used a PAC module for factory amp integration, however with all the metra modules Ive used, you just hook it up color to color like normal (except for P-brake, reverse, and VSS, those colors are usually a little different)

the rest of the world just hides the GPS antenna under some plastic parts of the dash never to be seen, just like how most car companies do with their OEM GPS antennas. the sat antennas are the only ones i dont like to put inside the car.

well i've never seen one not have the pause, if you think about it, it is reading a file, the file is done and it stops, then selects a new file, and then starts playing it, its not quite the same as reading and decoding a solid stream of bits off of a CD.

 

Sure I could go buy an ipod to store my music but why spend hundreds of dollars on an ipod when I can accomplish the same thing with a $30 SD card?

its little things like that apple does, that makes their products so damn good and the industry standard.

why cant the dude enjoy how he is using his system, if he cant tell the difference with the BT compression, why should he care, not everybody is an audiophile, most done even have the right equipment to truly hear a huge difference, also when streaming internet audio, you are always losing a lot of SQ through that compression, BT only makes is a tad bit worse.

 

 

also, if i am worried about SQ, that last source i would be dealing with would be the SD card reader.

yes seeing how steering wheel controls are wired external remotes, the wired remote input would be the correct spot.

 

 

as long as the system can get a good clean view of the sky (not in a major city surrounded by tall building and bridges) it should be very accurate with out VSS hooked up.

 

however, hooking it up will only make the system more accurate, especially when there are things blocking good sat reception.

personally, I'd say go for the avic, and sell the JL amp, use the PDX, and then end up spending even less for the upgrade. shoudln't have much trouble getting $200 -$300 for a brand new JL full system amp.

 

i just think the design of the PDX is a little better for a full system amp, such as four main speakers and one good sub. such as four channels 75W rms @ 4 ohm + one channel 300w rms @ 2 ohm ) since the most common setup for a good sub is 4 ohm DVC (2ohm total). the JL would be be good if you had four main speakers and bridging the last two channels for 200 watts @ 4 ohm (kinda weak on the sub) or you could do only two main speakers and two sub channels again at 200 watts each @ 4ohm. i just think that a little odd of a set up. i would always rather have one higher quality sub that out preforms and takes up less space than two lower level subs.

 

again, just my opinion, YMMV.

some toyota's use dual antennas, the AVIC's can only take one of the antenna plugs, if your car has both, one of the plugs will be too small to plug in anywhere.

A little background on me:

 

Electrical Engineering Degree

MECP Cert.

Been with AAMP/PAC for 6+ years

If anyone knows about the parts.... It's me.

thats good to know, i will agree with you that you should know exactly what is what! i will give you the respect you shall deserve going forward.

 

I apologize that some of my guys won't openly help you illegally bypass safety features on a radio that we have no experience with.

not necessarily, there are a couple of states where it is not illegal, not to mention the AVH p3200 i have installed into my boat, that doesn't have a brake wire to attach to.

 

Absolutely no attitude, I was just trying to let you know I wasn't just another schmo on the forum.

and I will apologize for any guff i sent your way, you wouldn't believe how many ass clowns i deal with on this and other forums that spread incorrect information around which really screws with a lot of the newbs that are not very familiar with this kind of stuff.

 

 

 

but on to you knowing your module...

can you tell me what the timing is for the tr7 in alpine mode, more precisely, how long before the module grounds the hand brake, how long it stays grounded before releasing, and then how long before it re-grounds the wire?

 

I think this could work for pioneers just with out using the foot brake wire coming from the module with out having to do a lot of programming, as most of the problems (I'm sure with a lot of your phone calls too) have to do with having difficultly programming the module.

 

the only reason i ask is because I have heard that some modules or settings that used to work on older firmware quit working after one of the updates pioneer released.

I did see the 5 prong relay at Advance auto but wasn't sure if it was the right one, didn't have the numbers listed on it.

a lot of times, the numbers are very hard to see on the bottom, if it comes with the socket and harness, it usually covers up the numbers. sometimes instead of numbers it might have a diagram on the side with no numbers.

 

glad you got it all set.

 

I do hope they come out with updates that does fix most of the little bugs, these units have so much potential. when the F-series first came out, it was plagued with glitches and issues, and after a few generations it (X-series) is now a pretty solid system. same should be able to be done with the App Radio series!

standard shop rates are

mobile video install $120

dash kit $20

wire harness $20

 

optional

steering wheel adapter $100

adapter labor $60

does anybody know what the timing is for the alpine mode??

 

it does make sense that it could work, since it basically does the exact same thing on one wire (simulate setting, releasing, and resetting and leaving the parking brake on) while also adding a positive trigger to simulate holding the foot brake down while doing the other sequence.

 

you are just not hooking anything up to the foot brake wire.