1loudls

Which wire(s) on the F90BT do I need to hook to something?

it is the solid blue wire that has a tag on it that reads "antenna control"

if it has an amped ant the "power antenna wire" will power up the amp, with a toyota it is the blue wire in the aftermarket harness (which is usually also connected to the audio amp turn on wire, on the harness, one blue wire, two pins)

VSS? why not hook it up, dont you want your unit to be as accurate as possible?

Speed Sense should be the purple/white at the ECM, second plug from left, pin 17 ,The ECM (Engine Control Module) is behind the glove box.

those modules f up all the time

if you have a bose system they used a connector part that goes inbetween the bose system harness and the pioneer harness. that needs to be turned up. it will be really loud after that

 

How do you turn it up?

not all premium sound systems have the module, some just have RCA plugs that just run into the amp's inputs. the output of the AVIC are not as strong as the factory systems. instead of plugging the rca's in to the AVIC (only if you do not have a module), you can wire them up to the speaker outputs of the AVIC. however you will then have the exact oppisite problem, the radio will be a lot louder than it should be and it will be very easy to blow the speakers so exercise caution

yes there is a small plug on the back for the swi-ps to plug into, they usually have "w/r" stampped next to it

cover the gps antenna with a small sheet of metal and see what it says for the speed

what harness did you use? does it have a module or just plug into the RCA's?

Speed Sense - green, 16 pin gray plug at BCM

Parking Brake - orange/black, pink plug at BCM or should be the only wire comming off the parking brake itself

The BCM (Body Control Module) is located at the front of the center console under the radio.

Reverse Light - lt. green, center console fusebox, black plug

if its not under the dashboard, the next most common spot to hide them would be behind one of the pannels in the back, which can be a pain in the a$$, i would agree that your best course of action would be to find the ant and follow the wire

the illum wire shows 12V+ when the parking lights are on, the voltage will vary on the dimmer wire depending on what the dimmer knob is set to and some cars use a negitive dimmer

my Ipod works great, never have a bluetooth problem (except for not tranfering contacts, but thats been fixed). it always tell me to turn at the right time.

check the settings on the ipod itself, i think it might be the video out setting

have you udated the bluetooth software?

yes the us 700 and 900 both have three pair or RCA's Front, Rear, and Sub

hopefully since more and more car are needing these interfaces they are getting closer to making them work right, they have the best funtionality but still just a little buggy when it comes to translating all the info from the car

i would try programming something different to that button and see if the new button goes crazy, if so i would skip the SOURCE button in the PAC programming so at least every other button works

RAP (Retained Accesorry Power) is where the radio stays on for ten minutes after the key is turned off or until the door is open,

the cig socket (most car dont come with a cig lighter anymore, sorry) is the power port where you plug in your phone charger, Alot of chrysler, dodge, and jeeps have two power ports. one will usually have a picture of a battery and the other will have a picture of a key on it (this is the one you will want to use). some times there is no pictures at all. if you have a phone charger that has a light on it when it is on, you can use this to test (if there are no pictures on the power port) just plug it in, while the key is off, if it lights up then this wont work, if you have another one make sure to try them all. if it doesnt light up, put the key in and turn it on, if it lights up now then you have found a winner

or use the module's ACC wire to trigger a relay to feed the power to the radio, then put a capacitor on the acc wire before the relay, and use a diod to isolate the capacitor from the module

I think it is the PAC SWI PS you need

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he is talking about the CAN interface not the steering wheel interface.

unfortunatly i have experenced problems with just about all brands CAN or LAN (gm) interfaces.the only time i use them is when the is an amp in the system that doesnt need to be bypassed. you best bet would be to find a true ACC wire (i usually use the key activated cig plug socket in most chyslers) and tap off the + wire and run it up to the AVIC's ACC wire, you will lose the Retained Accesorry Power, but at least you headunit will stay on while you are using the windows

use illumination

plus some cars use a negitive dimmer

map disc? you cant play video's off an Ipod while its in your glovebox, VR and blurtooth built in... its not even a question for me

F-series FTW

no

need to? no, does it make your system more accurate? yes

Gray/Black at the PCM, located on the driver side of the firewall under the hood.

i would try a different cable

i had the same problem with my nextel I880, i followed the instructions in the "phone book edit software" thread and i was able to create a list of contacts

it should be BLUE/WHITE at the ECM Located at the first plug on the ECM, it is a 32 pin gray plug. The ECM plugs can be accessed by pulling up the carpet on the passenger side of the center console. There are 4 plugs total.

Can I add contacts and numbers to this list?

Y E S !