adarkol

This is an awesome app... too bad someone from Pioneer wont recognize this and maybe add it into AVICFeeds... Hhhhmmmm whatta concept!!! I like it!! Pssssttttt Pioneerare you reading this? lol

unfortunately for you... 2005 is the last year of the din and three-quarter opening. In 2006 on up they switched to the doubledin with the bump out on each side. That one will easily accept a double-din deck but you must purchase a new dash bezel from the dealership, it has to be the navigation bezel should be priced around $175.

You can get a double din into your truck (I have done it if I can find the pictures I will post them) but it takes major modification of the factory dash bezel and sub-dash area, which is far more indepth of an install than what the average Best Buy would be able to handle only because it involves using certain beautification methods like fiberglass to make it look good!!

Hope this helps!

...apparently it thinks the front 1/8" jack is a video input. Brilliant Pioneer, brilliant.

 

it thinks that it is a video input...

because it is a video input

 

please dont bag on pioneer because you didn't RTFM

Bwahahahahahahahahahahahaha!!!!! ROTFLMFAO!!!!

Everything that 1loudls says is accurate... I have a Viper Remotestart as well and I actually use it everytime I get into my car to get the AVIC booting up so I get in and the music is playing Your other option is that since this is an occasional thing you could also use a standard Bosch SPDT relay and a normally open momentary switch to interrupt the acc wire on the AVIC to force it to reboot without having to loose all of your settings

The relay will have 5 terminals on it they will be labeled as 30, 85, 86, 87, 87a

cut the ACC wire behind the radio don't cut it too short cause you will need both sides of the wire!

30 to the radio side of the ACC wire

87a and 86 to the vehicle side of the ACC wire

87 terminate... connect to nothing but insulate it

85 to one side of the normally open momentary switch

Chassis ground to the other side of the switch

Mount the switch in a descrete location

Whenever you hit the switch it will disconnect the power on the ACC wire and force the screen to shut off... as soon as you release the switch everything will go back to normal.

The reason that you are not getting AM reception is that the vehicles with the roof mount antenna have an AM antenna that needs to be turned on... One antenna is for AM/FM the other is for Sat radio or radio data information depending on where your car is built for... Basically you need an adapter that has a 12v injector on it and that is what will turn on the AM reception

Scosche makes a part that will do this for you (I assume that your A4 is a 2000 or newer) the part number is VWA4B this should do the trick for you!! Let me know if you have any other questions!

I"m in GB but don't want to be responsible for brickin your unit... if I damage mine its my own fault... but if i damage yours and you are paying me to work on it I am liable... I know what I am doing and not at all do I question my abilities... its just hat the possibilities are there

What are you looking to do?

The only reason that they don't talk about compatibility with the SIR-PNR2 is that this unit is no longer produced and is replaced by the SCC1 and Pioneer translator... The SIR-PNR2 can still be purchased through some retail outlets but it is a gone when gone unit... when they are sold out there are no more!!

Has anyone used the POI expansion card for this unit?

Has anyone tried to use it on multiple units?

I have a customer that put this unit in more than one of his vehicles and he really doesn't want to have to buy two cards...

Excelent!!! Thanks for the input Borris!

 

One "R" please

My bad... the phone at work was yelling at me!!

Dear Two Idiots,

Alright here it is... first off I will apologize in advance it has been awhile since I have worked on one of these so some of the details might be a little fuzzy... Dont be discouraged the new canbus networks suck I don't care who you are!!

First find the amp and get to it... I think it is above the glove box towards the radio it is behind a plastic panel and is a pita to get to... the amp will have two plugs that plug into it one is the input and power connections the other is the speaker leads. Here are all the outputs from the amp

Speaker 1 FL+ DARK GREEN/YELLOW C2 PIN 1

Speaker 1 FL - DARK GREEN/LIGHT BLUE C2 PIN 7

Speaker 1 FR + GRAY/YELLOW C2 PIN 2

Speaker 1 FR - GRAY/LIGHT BLUE C2 PIN 8

Speaker 1 RL + DARK GREEN/LIGHT GREEN C2 PIN 4

Speaker 1 RL - GRAY/DARK GREEN C2 PIN 9

Speaker 1 RR + DARK GREEN/LIGHT GREEN C2 PIN 4

Speaker 1 RR - DARK GREEN/GRAY C2 PIN 12

Speaker 1 CTR + GRAY/BROWN C1 PIN 3

Speaker 1 CTR - GRAY/ORANGE C1 PIN 12

Speaker 2 FL + GRAY/ORANGE C1 PIN 1

Speaker 2 FL - GRAY/YELLOW C1 PIN 10

Speaker 2 FR + GRAY/DARK GREEN C1 PIN 2

Speaker 2 FR - GRAY/LIGHT GREEN C1 PIN 11

speaker 1 should be the door speakers and ctr is the center channel and the speaker 2 should be the dash speakers.

You could also get the speaker wires same color right where they go into the door boots for each door... JUST BE CAREFUL!!! the wires for the rear speakers are the same color as the wires for the pyro charges for the seat belt retractors and they will each test out at 3 to 4 ohms!!

I would run the wires from your 4chnl amp to the wires at the factory amp and use the factory wires to distribute to the speakers... and then the RCAs from the D3 to the 4chnl ovbiously!

Anything else let me know. Test and verify all your wires before you connect and I am not responsible if this info is not 100% correct, that is why you test first!

The software bypass does not work after update. I tried searching and gave up. Does anyone have the link on how to do the software bypass for 3.0?

 

So if the software bypass does not work.... My question is will the wire bypass still work? I assume it will but I just would like confirmation before I upgrade!

 

Both bypasses work, in exactly the same manner as before.

Excelent!!! Thanks for the input Borris!

 

Wouldn't you just love to catch them in the act and have a bat handy.

 

A BAT!!! Read my sig, I got more then a bat, I would love to catch one of these bastards. It wouldn't even have to be my car. I would just like to catch one breaking into anyone's car.

A Factory alarm is just a glorified noise maker!!! Even Aftermarket alarms are only good if people pay attention to them...

I had my AVIC-D3 stolen out of my car in my work parking lot, it is in a mall area which is very high traffic (people and cars) I have a high end pager alarm on my vehicle. Teh sad news was that my keys were in my toolbox and by the time I heard the pager going off and got out to my car the people were gone with my D3 and they caused a crap ton of damage!! Good thing I was paid up on my car insurance, they covered everything and I got to upgrade to the F900!

So now my question is... Anyone know where I can purchase a "Trunk Monkey" (youTube search for it) At work so I cannot access YouTube to give the URL... Funny stuff!! Maybe we could train the Trunk Monkey to use the Smith & Wesson... Whattya think?

The software bypass does not work after update. I tried searching and gave up. Does anyone have the link on how to do the software bypass for 3.0?

So if the software bypass does not work.... My question is will the wire bypass still work? I assume it will but I just would like confirmation before I upgrade!

Exactly! Perhaps if soo many people didnt steal, prices wouldnt be so high to begin with. Just a thought.

I will be purchasing the update on payday but I have multiple units to upgrade... and now I have to figure out which one I want to upgrade cause $70 per unit kinda sukx... So I will have a legit copy but I want to be able to put it on multiple units of mine if possible!

Of those of you that got it today...

Did anyone install it yet? Does it look like you will be able to install it on multiple units? Has anyone tried to install it on multiple units? Is it all its cracked up to be? If it requires a product key and activation... has anyone tried to build a keygen?

Just curious... I know that I am not the only one thinking these questions!

Thanx

Unfortunately with the design of this product Pioneer did not build in an IR sensor... So a remote will not work in any way shape or form Believe me I was heart broken when I heard that news!!

So even though the modules are expensive that will be your only way to get external controll. Peripherial offers a nice piece called the PSEWIPS and the newest updated version (comes in a cardboard box not plastic packaging) even offers some options for programming to uses your steering wheel controlls to do phone functionality. Basically you can program each button to do any one of the like 12ish options. ex... Volume on the steering wheel could be programmed to do Source on the screen.

As for the comment about Best Buy employees... All I will say is that you should not judge every store based upon your experience with one store... I know for a fact that you will be using an employees advice on this forum at some point in time... there are MANY of us on here!!!

 

I'm sure there are _some_ Best Buy employees who know something. I just have never seen one. And BB's business practices are well known, too...

Fair play to ya... I have seen things change ALOT in the last couple of years and even more change within the last couple of quarters, and if you continue to get poor service then I apologize and ask that you hold tight cause things are currently in transition!

As for the person with the trim ring... were you able to track one down?

Thanks, for the quick reply. To correct my previous post, it is a tactile switch, so I am beginning to think it is not the right switch for the job. I'd say normally closed, but let me describe the switch config, since it allows for either way.

 

There are four prongs, A, B, C, D. When in normal position, A and B are closed. When depressed, A and B are open, A and D are closed (not sure about B and C, didn't check cause at that point I stopped checking). So my intention is to connect the power leads to A and B. If the unit hangs, press the switch to cut the connection (hold down if needed), then release to allow for reboot.

 

I was going to attach the other ends of the leads to male and female plug in connectors (have no idea what they are called) to allow the switch to be easily disconnected. (Switch A prong connected to wire, connected to male plug, Switch B prong connected to wire and female plug, and the Acc wire will have a male and female plug).

 

My concern (or question) with the switch and the plugs is that since power will be constant through these, what is the risk of overheating? I know 50mA is very low, and admittedly (and obviously) I have NO experience with this stuff (but I can solder!!).

 

Thanks for the input.

 

- dan

Yes 50mA is very low... I am not sure what the draw is on the screen but if you want to set up a fairly simple way to shut off the power to the accy on the head unit you can use a momentary (spring loaded push button) switch and a SPDT relay to do your interrupt. Here is how...

On the relay there will be terminals labeled 30, 85, 86, 87, and 87a. Take the Accy output from the vehicle and connect it to the 86 and 87a. Then take the 30 and connect that to the Accy input to the headunit. Leave the 87 not connected to anything but make sure that you insulate that terminal so it cannot touch anything. And the final connection is where you would take the 85 and connect that to the one side of the momentary switch then the other side of the switch you will wire to ground. BAM every time you press in the momentary switch it will interrupt the accy wire and shut off the radio just like turning off the key of the car, and it will keep that wire disconnected the entire time you hold that switch in, by using this method you can restart your screen without loosing any of your programmed settings. On average a standard Bosch SPDT relay will handle up to 30A safely which is WAY over kill for what you are looking to do but it will do the job!!

In one of the menus there is an "OFF" button. Press it and it turns off.

 

Really?

No it does not turn it off it just turns the screen off... but the unit is still alive and fully functional.

Real quick question on this topic. I want to do the same thing, and picked up a momentary switch from radio shack. The switch is rated at 12v 50mA. Anyone know if the 50mA rating is too low to run the Accessory wire through?

 

I know the answer is to check the Amps on the wire, but i thought i would risk the abuse here in hopes of finding out BEFORE open the dash.

 

Any help is appreciated.

 

- dan

Is it a Normally open or Normally closed Momentary Switch? because that will determine what way you will have to wire it up... and depending on how you wire it up the Amperage will not matter.

Aftermarket momentary switches in the automotive industry are generally Normally open... which means that the circuit is connected when the switch is pressed in and there is no connection at rest.

If it is a thick snap on trim ring then the trim ring that you are looking for comes inside of the ADT-VA133 2DIN Install Kit... this is a part that Pioneer markets as a separate product in the states... this kit comes with the sleeve, the trim ring, screws and the Ford/VW removal keys. Price on it stateside is about $40... I know for a fact that the cost is substantially less... maybe $10 bucks or less on average

Or if it is flat then it is the same trim ring that comes in EVERY other Double-Din Non-Navi unit that Pioneer offers.

As for the comment about Best Buy employees... All I will say is that you should not judge every store based upon your experience with one store... I know for a fact that you will be using an employees advice on this forum at some point in time... there are MANY of us on here!!!

Keep your eyes open in the UK for Best Buy's... they will be there before you know it!!! They might already be.. just operating under another name(Hint Hint... check out a Warehouse that sells Carphones!!) LOL

Yes the installer is correct!!! ANY Factory installed sat brain is going to be propriety to the factory head unit... unfortunately for your situation you will have to purchase the Pioneer CD-SB10 $70 and the Sirius SCC1 $85(Universal tuner) built by Directed Electronics. Or you can get ahold of one of the old skool Pioneer SIR-PNR2 $100 (but kinda outdated)

And if you are having it professionally installed $250 is mostly a fair price for install of the screen, GPS Antenna, BT Mic, Sirius translator, Sirius brain, and Sirius Antenna.

Its all good bro.... Thats why this forum is the greatest... Share the knowledge!!!

Yep thats it... MisFit is right... if the wire is there... sometimes it isn't

The complication comes in from the D3 hardware being severely limited in what it can do... It has an extremely limited flash memory built into it (thats why the maps are all still on two DVD roms)