mrailing

So can you perform the hex edit on the files to bypass the Navi Nag screen prompt before performing the upgrade so it will be copied over?

Okay, thnx for the help. But after burning the map disc, the navigation sux and is set up wierd, no ipod, no back up cam, and way to exspensive to get all that. So I might just install my Pioneer in the Caddy. The only cool thing about the factory nav system is the 8" screen and how it fits and looks in the dash.

 

I have a Coastal Tech Gen 5 (I think) lock pick. I bought it for my 2008 Tahoe before I ended going back to the AVIC. I have the iPod connector and even have a bluetooth module that connects to it. I would make you a deal on it... PM me if you are interested.

You need a device like this:

 

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-MS-FRD1-Replacement-Interface-Retention/dp/B003E3QRU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1297292293&sr=8-1

 

I don't know if it will work with your specific model, but PAC audio makes this, and it's similar to the OS-4 needed to retain OnStar and the chimes in a GM vehicle.

 

Here is the PAC Audio site information:

 

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=919&CategoryID=26

 

Of course, Amazon has it a LOT cheaper... I bought my OS-4 from Amazon, and it was the newest generation of the product. This works well with Z120BT that I have, gives me steering wheel controls of my 08 Tahoe Hybrid, as well as full control of OnStar and wireless headphones.

 

Hope that helps.

Mine will be here the beginning of next week. Can't wait. Should have it installed by the end of the week if I am lucky.

Thank you for this.

 

Just placed the order. This should balance out to the same price as the 110 with the software update.

 

Now to see when it arrives.

[quote name="madmanfrommars"]I never had any problems with the VC1, other then the fact that its completely useless.

Actually it was worth it for the remote, which I use a lot. The voice commands though; theres really nothing I can say thats any easier then simply pressing the button on the screen.[/quote]

But if you didn't hack the unit, you wouldn't be able to press many of the buttons on the screen to adjust your route, or creating a new route without first parking the car and applying the parking break. So it's not very useful if you have bypassed your unit... I agree that the remote is great, and I do use voice quite often to get to my address book entries and to quickly cancel a route, or to find the closest gas station to where I am driving.

But if you had a un-bypassed unit, then the voice module becomes much more useful.

Did someone say "Vantec AVOX Mobile Multimedia Jukebox"???

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.a ... 6855182001

 

But the OP asked for one that can be controlled by the headunit itself, is there a hack to allow this device to do it? If not, any MP3 player can be connected to the aux input on the hideaway box and then be controlled by it's own interface...

It all comes down to portability, XM NavTraffic, and ease of use. The Pioneer system is easy to use, especially while driving. I know the Nuvi is as well, but then GPS unit is in the dash, always available, and controls everything.

 

You will probably get newer maps with the Nuvi, as it seems that Pioneer only updates their maps about once a year, normally when a new headunit comes out.

 

I have used the Nuvi before, and I like the Pioneer map system better, especially with POI and ease of finding things on the map. Also watching DVDs (err. letting your passengers watch DVDs) while driving, and having everything at the touch of your fingers, without having wires dragging across your dash.

 

Also not getting pulled over in those states that don't allow radar detectors when they see the portable GPS on your dash (happened to me once).

 

The nice thing about the Nuvi, as with all portable GPS systems is just that, they are portable, so no matter what car you go in to, you have a GPS system with you.

 

I have the Pioneer AVIC-N3 in my car, and I have a bluetooth GPS module with Pocket PC software (I have a Pocket PC Phone), and use the GPS with my phone when I don't have my car to guide me.

 

So it all comes down to do you want indash GPS with POI search, telephone search, easy to use interface, DVD Playback, iPod Connection (possible), AUX inputs, CD Changer input control (possible), XM radio (possible), XM NavTraffic (possible and in areas where it is supported), or do you want portability?

The N3 changed the small display for the worse. It no longer displays information like that on it, basically just displaying the device, or the channel you are on. For example with the N2 you could cycle the Title, Artist, etc with XM on the small display, but the N3 only shows you the station name.

 

Same thing holds true for the CD Changed. I have a 12 Disc (which I haven't used in months), but from what I have read it will only display the disc number and the track number. You have to have the display open to show that information.

Try an iPod. Any iPod with a dock connector can be controlled from the screen. You just need the iPod interface and you can connect the iPod to it for full control.

 

I actually purchased a used 60 GB iPod photo to store in my car filled with music. I take it out about once a month and put some new music on it.

 

That's about the only way to get a system setup with controls on the headunit...

I also have had this problem, yet it was like this from the moment I turned on XM Nav traffic. I have called XM and they say it's not them, and Pioneer says it's not them. It's frustrating as this is one of the reasons I wanted XM NavTraffic...

The screen just isn't the best quality. I have owned an N1, N2, and now have an N3 in my vehicle. All the screens quality aren't up to snuff compared to good quality TVs.

 

Of course you shouldn't be watching movies while driving...

 

Really it all comes down to pixels. The screen has a weird pixel ratio:

 

1,440 x 234

 

This is one reason it just doesn't show up that clear. You can play with the brightness and contrast controls to help a little, but it just isn't a good quality "movie" screen...

Did you try leaving the N3 headunit in the house to let it warm up? Try that for a few hours, and then when it's at room temp, warm up your truck, and then plug the unit in (with your truck off). See if that helps. It might be that the unit just needs to sit and warm up for a while...

Also as a follow up to the battery. You should probably replace it. Depending on the battery, they normally last around 2-5 years, and as a general rule of thumb, I usually replace "normal" batteries every 36 months (3 years). It's better to replace a battery, than NEED to replace a battery.

 

You might look at Optima batteries like a Red top. They are good for sound systems and also give you a GREAT warranty program with 72 months of a full replacement battery.

 

Also the reason your battery is corroding is the wrap around the battery. That rubber portion is something your manufacturer puts around the battery tray to keep everything clean, but it tends to keep the fumes to close to the battery which causes corrosion. When you replace the battery, don't put the wrap back on. Also when cleaning the terminal posts around your battery, make sure you get all the corrosion gone, and put some grease on it (the place you buy your battery from can recommend the grease to get). This will help it from corroding in the future.

 

The battery is not causing the alternator whine, but it could cause you some starting issues...

Actually what you are hearing is alternator whine caused by a grounding problem, which you will hear when you rev your engine. Your defroster is probably a ground activated circuit, meaning when you activate it, the switch actually grounds the defroster causing it to send electricity to the unit to defrost your glass. Since this is the case, when it's on, it's causing a ground loop which is putting feedback in your system, either at the amps or at the headunit, which is what you are hearing.

 

From the looks of the pictures, you have two amps and a cap, and a crappy install job. I can see that the Sony amp is the black wire with yellow stripe to your ground and it looks like you have the cap grounded to the same location, but I can't tell where you RF amp is grounded. It looks like you grounded it to your cap, and then ran a single wire from the cap to the main ground. This isn't a good way to ground an amp, and could be part of the problem. Also the ground you have running from the cap to the grounding point looks to be to small of a gauge wire and is long. It is recommended to keep all grounding wires as short as possible, and I normally keep my grounds less than 12 inches, preferably around 6-8 inches. You can find many resources as to how to wire your system correctly, and a good place to discuss a wiring install is http://www.the12volt.com/ which also has many wiring diagrams.

 

Now when I mentioned gauge of wire, you should always use the same gauge (thickness) of wire for the ground as you do the battery wire. You should also NEVER connect to grounds to the same grounding point, as this can introduce "noise". The location of the ground is also important, if it's grounded on/near another ground point, it can pick up "noise" from the other ground, and I found that even a 1/5 volt can cause noise.

 

Now narrowing down that problem is sometimes difficult. From the wiring done on the amps and cap, it could be the problem, or it could be the location of the headunit grounding point. To test, do this. Pull the fuses from the power cable heading to your amps, so that no power is going to them, and then start your car. Turn your system on and test with your defroster on, do you hear the whine? If so, it's most likely in the place they grounded the headunit, if not, then it could be in the amps in the back. Turn off your car and put the fuse back in the fuse block.

 

If you hear the whine, ask the installers where they grounded the head unit, did they use the factory ground in the wiring harness, or did they create their own ground to a piece of metal in the dash? If they just grounded it to the dash, then you might ask them to use the factory ground in the harness, or if one isn't there, ask them to ground it to a different ground point, preferably on the frame of the car, and not just in the stereo area. They might have to run a longer wire.

 

I would also look up information on wiring an amp and cap, whoever did that did NOT do a good job, and it could be cause of some of your problems. Amps only need to be connected to the + side of the cap, and should be grounded directly to the car, as should the cap. So you should essentially have a wire from the battery (and in your case no smaller than a 4 gauge wire with a multi amp system) to the + of the cap (if you want both amps off the cap, else split it with a power distribution block). Once the battery wire is on the + side of the cap, you should connect each amps + to the cap. Each unit should have it's own ground, so each amp should be grounded to the frame, and the cap should be grounded. Each to it's own spot, cleaned of paint, and I would do it at least 1 foot apart, although it can probably be closer.

 

Search for alternator whine, Noise, etc over at 12-volt, and you will find lots of good posts about narrowing it down...