pat_smith1969

I borrowed a multi meter and discovered that there is no signal coming from any of the RCA cables (not just the sub), so that shows me what the problem is. Either that fuse is blown inside the unit, which basically means the head unit is shot (from what I read). or the RCA cables got unplugged somehow during/after installation. I will pull my dash apart tonight and attack it with my multi meter to find the truth. Thanks.

I borrowed a multi meter and discovered that there is no signal coming from any of the RCA cables (not just the sub), so that shows me what the problem is. Either that fuse is blown inside the unit, which basically means the head unit is shot (from what I read). or the RCA cables got unplugged somehow during/after installation. I will pull my dash apart tonight and attack it with my multi meter to find the truth. Thanks.

I have had my F90 running for 4 months now through the stock wires, stock speakers, etc. Just using deck power, no external amps. Tonight I added a sub amp and a sub, I hooked up the sub pre-out and the sub just sits there like a bump on a log... no bass. The amp turns on so it is getting power and remote turn on signal but it is not moving my sub. I THINK this is one of those units that you cannot use the internal amp to power fronts, rears AND use the pre-out to run the sub.... please verify. Also of note... There is a bose sub in the car that I will eventually disconnect, I am

I saw those posts, but they were comments by other users stating what they did and that it worked. In the actual directions of the OP on that thread it mentions nothing about any other steps. Their comments are what steered me to the D series where I found a complete set of directions, albeit for a different model. I cobbled them all together and figured it all out... AFTER I posted this thread. I get what you are saying, that those other people added important information.. but I was looking at it like this. Chef "so and so" saying "You should cook your steak at 450F for 20 minutes",

thanks for the replys. Here is what I was missing. I read the sticky in the FSeries forum, that post has no instructions other than moving the mute wire from one spot to another. If you want the FULL directions you have to look under the DSeries forum at the sticky there. It never occured to me to look under another forum for directions. Needless to say I found what I needed and have a fully functioning avic.

The sticky says to move the mute from a pin to another pin. I have done that. It never says why we do this, nor does it say what the mute is supposed to be connected to. My wire harness for my F90bt has no Mute wire, so even though I did what it said to do the result is that the old location where the mute wire USED to be is not unconnected to anything, AND the new location (pin 4) goes to nothing as well. Is there a better link for the bypass, one that has more than just 5 pictures?

So After looking at several different options I decided on a F90bt. I recieved it today, refurbed, ebay, for $450 shipped. I am very excited, I have had better sounding decks (macintosh HU) but never had one that does more. I have yet to install it though. I wonder, do I need some special adapter to hook it into my car wiring and use the oem car speakers? I have a MazdaSpeed3 with the BOSE package. I have the Metra kit, PAC SWI-PS for the steering wheel, metra wire harness. I am wondering about the BOSE (crap) amplifier and hooking up a head unit to the speaker wires that has decent power.

I can get one of the below three navi decks. I am just wondering your all's opinions. 1. Pioneer Avic-F90BT $450. This is a Premier unit. It has a vid out for a rear monitor. You can download customizations for it, to add a skin or red light camera features. There has been a bunch of reports that this unit has glitches. It does have 6 4v pre-outs. 2. Pioneer Avic-X910bt $550. THis is the newest version of the line (until the x920bt comes out). Reports say most of the glitches from the F series have been addressed. It has only 2v pre-outs. Pioneer cannot tell me if it has a 24bit DAC o

So I thought I knew something about these units and then got confused.... The Z series clearly says it has a 24bit D/A. Looking at the new X910bt on the Pioneer site it does not mention a 24bit D/A BUT... on the Crutchfield site is clearly says it has one. Can anyone confirm/deny weather or not it does/does not have a 24bit D/A? How about the F90bt... it was a Premier version.. for what that is worth. Again no mention anywhere about a D/A converter but it has a generic blurb about "audiophile quality components" whatever that is. anyone have the real info on these? I sent a

"There will also be no Premier brand in the future." That is sad news. It is akin to Sony giving up it's ES line (home audio) or Kenwood getting rid of it's Excelon line. "It works well but it is only compatible with the Z110-120BT, U series, and X920BT." I went to the Pioneer site and you are absolutely correct (as you probably already knew). Interesting though that the Amazon site has this feature listed for the x910bt.

I am still in the shopping mode so I don't actually own any of these yet but I must say I am bummed with the X910bt. The F910bt has the Premier logo on the front, The x series of the same name doesn't. OK I admit it is a really small thing. Back in the day, the Premier logo really meant something (kinda like the Sony ES logo means better quality over hte non ES line). I am saying this mostly toungue in cheek. As a side note... I have an opportunity to get an Eclipse 62dbt, Basically the 6620 with the bluetooth otpion. I can get this unit for $500 nib. I can get the x910 for $550 NIB...

I have been trolling Ebay for a few weeks now...I can get a 700 series unit for around $350 and a 900/90 series for around $450. I am unsure of what I am giving up for the extra $100 between the 700 and 900 series units. The features seem to be identical. Any help with the decision?