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Posts posted by RonS

  1. 15 hours ago, yousaidalligator said:

    What quirks are you finding that affects you the most?

    Probably my fault trying to make it behave like my phone. Sometimes you forget the app is running on the head unit and not the phone which has direct internet access. For example the unit has Google maps installed - which works great while I'm at home (on my LAN wifi) but when I'm driving I can't enter or change my route. I guess set up my phone as a hotspot and tether the headunit but that's also a hassle every time you drive.

    Also, it normally boots up in 3 seconds with everything as you left them (like sleep on a phone), but if you don't start the car for a week, it shuts down and does a cold boot and you have to launch things again. Seems a minor annoyance except you have to pull over and play around with it and the roads where I live have no on-street parking or shoulders so I have to drive several miles to find a place to park so I can get my apps up and running.

    Basically, instead of having a simple dedicated media player, you've now got another computer to manage.   1st world problems!!!

  2. 36 minutes ago, yousaidalligator said:

    Thanks for the response Ron.

    I have tried using three separate devices, an iPhone XS, iPhone 8, and an iPad Mini 2. These are all on separate iOS versions 16, 10, and 12. I have confirmed that the Bluetooth volume was maxed when I connected all three devices in separate instances.

    When I select the Bluetooth mode on my x930BT, the 'static' noise is very much evident even at low volumes. Its only when I max the volume on the HU can I very faintly hear what song is playing.  It's very strange, it would've been easier to diagnose if Bluetooth just didn't work at all

    Edit: Which car stereo brand have you switched over to?

    I just wanted something that was Android based (so i could install 1000's of apps) and supported wireless AndroidAuto & Carplay. I replaced my 13 yr old Z110-BT with an ATOTO A6 Pro from Amazon for around $200. It has some quirks but I'm satisfied with the sound.

  3. It might help to know what brand and model phone you are using.

    It isn't clear whether the problem is with your head unit or phone. I know my Samsung phone has separate audio settings for media and phone calls.

    Do you have another BT device to test your phone's music volume?

    BTW I no longer have a Pioneer so I'm relying on memory as to what settings are available on the x940 for each BT pairing. I seem to remember having separate permission settings for music and phone calls. 

  4. None of the newer (modern) head units are plug compatible with the old X910-BT. So whatever unit or brand you decide to buy, you will need to splice in to the car's wiring or find a conversion harness (depends on how the X910 was wired). There is no plug-n-play upgrade solution.  

    I recently wanted to modernize my car which had a Z110-BT (with the latest available Pioneer maps/firmware). I wanted Carplay/Android auto support. After pricing Pioneer and other major brands I decided they were not worth it when I could buy a $200 unit on Amazon from a brand I'd never heard before (Atoto). So far I'm very pleased - sounds better and has a ton of features. Since it runs Android, I can customize it and install apps off Google Play store.

  5. I have no experience with this unit or the process to convert to another language.  However I assume that TestMode must be triggered by hard buttons since it must be able to get into Testmode while/before the unit boots. So - did you try pressing - and + while booting? I don't know about those other hard buttons since I don't recognize the symbols.

    If that doesn't work, I'm sorry I have no other ideas. Sooner or later someone who has done this will see your question and give a definitive answer.

  6. Before doing anything major I'd try switching to the backup firmware. The AVIC headunits have to firmware copies. So whenever the firmware is updated, the older one is preserved. The one that gets executed at boot time is controlled by whether PRG.FLG exists. You can force it to use the backup version using that file.

    Boot into (Super)Testmode. Navigate to the USER directory. If a file named PRG.FLG exists, delete it. (it is just an empty file).

    If PRG.FLG doesn't exist, add one by creating an empty file on your PC, copy it to the TestMode SD, then boot into TestMode and copy PRG.FLG from the SD to USER. If all that sounds complicated to you, here is a script that will add PRG.FLG for you. Just download and unzip PRG-FLG-Script, copy the 3 files to a smallish SD (less than 8GB) and insert it into your headunit. It should reboot into Testmode and run the script. If it doesn't, you may need to cycle the power on the headunit.

    However, you didn't say what caused this problem. I hope you didn't cause the problem yourself by installing Condi's Hackmode or some other hack. If so, you might of corrupted the firmware beyond repair - or need a complete refresh.



  7. On 5/8/2022 at 2:57 PM, Dave Larsen said:

    would be happy to share this with you or if you know anybody that's having issues contact me and I will tell you how it's done so easy lol.

    If it's so easy, why not just post the method here so everyone can benefit? I can think of one reason, but since there's already posted some free fixes, there's not much profit to be had.

  8. Since this was a pre-installed headunit I have no idea what the previous owner might of done to hack it. If it is running some hacked firmware like Condi's Hackmode, I can't help. Remove anything in the SD slot behind the screen just in case. There's no other user replaceable SD within the unit. Normally, the SD is just used for playing media files (audio and movies). It is also used to install firmware and boot into TestMode. It isnt necessary for normal operation.

    These units don't ask for an update on their own. There's no external data connection. So if it asked to update something, it came from an SD or USB device that the user installed. Sounds like that's what happened and for whatever reason it failed and left the headunit in an bad state.

    Before pulling out the unit, I'd try some simple things using Testmode. Download  supertestmode.zip (unzip it; copy TESTMODE.KEY to your FAT32 SD). Unfortunately TestMode has a very arcane user interface which is tricky to learn. There's some videos on Youtube that do a decent job explaining.

    There is a manual procedure using TestMode to abort a failed update in some cases. Depends on how far it got.  Basically you:

    • boot into testmode. 
    • go into file maintenance
    • remove the file USER\SYSTEM\Download\StartKnd.log (if it exists).

    This will kick the unit out of upgrade mode, and it should restart into regular mode on next power up (remember to remove the TestMode SD). You should be running with your previous firmware and maps.

    If that doesn't pan-out, you can force the unit to use the backup firmware. There are two complete sets of firmware on the unit (/USER/PRG0 and /USER/PRG1).  When the unit installs a map update, it alternates overwriting one of them. It should overwrite the oldest. This is controlled by the presence or absence of the file /USER/PRG.FLG.  From memory, it works something like this: When the unit is brand new, PRG0 and PRG1 folders are identical and PRG.FLG does not exist. The next map update overwrites PRG1 and creates /USER/PRG.FLG (an empty file). The next time the unit is updated, it sees that PRG.FLG exists and overwrites PRG0 then deletes PRG.FLG. Then this cycle repeats ........

    If you want to force the unit to use older firmware you can trick it - if /USER/PRG.FLG exists, delete it. If it doesn't exist, add it. Adding is a little tricky but a simple way is just rename any file on the SD to PRG.FLG. It can be an empty file since the only thing that matters is its name.  Then copy it to /USER in the head unit. Then remove the SD and restart the unit.

    If none of that works, you can try loading (or reloading) the 2017 maps/firmware. See the thread in the Hacks sub-forum. You'll need to install the Shortfuse hack first to get around the Pioneer password registration key.



  9. Has this unit ever had a map/software upgrade? Some functions will not accept input if the parking brake is not detected. It sounds like you are saying that you can select the language so it might not be a parking brake problem.

    Just some random things to consider: Did the thief disturb and of the electrical wiring? Is there an anti-theft system in the truck? Did you have aftermarket HIDs installed? Did it ask you for a password when it booted? 

    IIRC, the headunit only asks for language selection on a full reset. Disconnecting the battery only resets a few things. but not the language. The way to do a factory reset on the Z-140BT (according to the manual) is:

    1. Park your vehicle in a safe place and apply the parking brake.
    2. Turn the ignition switch off and back on. The navigation system restarts, and the splash screen appears.
    3. Press and hold the MODE button and the TRK (<) button while the splash screen appears. The “Select Items to Reset” screen appears. If you select anything other than "Cancel", the language and a bunch of other stuff gets erased.

    If you didn't do this, something else is going on. Maybe the firmware or non-volatile memory got corrupted. There are a couple of things that could be tried by booting into Testmode but I need a clearer picture of what the current status is before suggesting any fixes that might just make things worse. Also, I haven't messed with one of these units in a long time and I'm kinda rusty. In fact, if anything on mine goes south, it will go in the trash. These unit's are far out-of-date and IMO not worth much effort to fix.

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