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Posts posted by RonS

  1. Before doing anything major I'd try switching to the backup firmware. The AVIC headunits have to firmware copies. So whenever the firmware is updated, the older one is preserved. The one that gets executed at boot time is controlled by whether PRG.FLG exists. You can force it to use the backup version using that file.

    Boot into (Super)Testmode. Navigate to the USER directory. If a file named PRG.FLG exists, delete it. (it is just an empty file).

    If PRG.FLG doesn't exist, add one by creating an empty file on your PC, copy it to the TestMode SD, then boot into TestMode and copy PRG.FLG from the SD to USER. If all that sounds complicated to you, here is a script that will add PRG.FLG for you. Just download and unzip PRG-FLG-Script, copy the 3 files to a smallish SD (less than 8GB) and insert it into your headunit. It should reboot into Testmode and run the script. If it doesn't, you may need to cycle the power on the headunit.

    However, you didn't say what caused this problem. I hope you didn't cause the problem yourself by installing Condi's Hackmode or some other hack. If so, you might of corrupted the firmware beyond repair - or need a complete refresh.



  2. On 5/8/2022 at 2:57 PM, Dave Larsen said:

    would be happy to share this with you or if you know anybody that's having issues contact me and I will tell you how it's done so easy lol.

    If it's so easy, why not just post the method here so everyone can benefit? I can think of one reason, but since there's already posted some free fixes, there's not much profit to be had.

  3. Since this was a pre-installed headunit I have no idea what the previous owner might of done to hack it. If it is running some hacked firmware like Condi's Hackmode, I can't help. Remove anything in the SD slot behind the screen just in case. There's no other user replaceable SD within the unit. Normally, the SD is just used for playing media files (audio and movies). It is also used to install firmware and boot into TestMode. It isnt necessary for normal operation.

    These units don't ask for an update on their own. There's no external data connection. So if it asked to update something, it came from an SD or USB device that the user installed. Sounds like that's what happened and for whatever reason it failed and left the headunit in an bad state.

    Before pulling out the unit, I'd try some simple things using Testmode. Download  supertestmode.zip (unzip it; copy TESTMODE.KEY to your FAT32 SD). Unfortunately TestMode has a very arcane user interface which is tricky to learn. There's some videos on Youtube that do a decent job explaining.

    There is a manual procedure using TestMode to abort a failed update in some cases. Depends on how far it got.  Basically you:

    • boot into testmode. 
    • go into file maintenance
    • remove the file USER\SYSTEM\Download\StartKnd.log (if it exists).

    This will kick the unit out of upgrade mode, and it should restart into regular mode on next power up (remember to remove the TestMode SD). You should be running with your previous firmware and maps.

    If that doesn't pan-out, you can force the unit to use the backup firmware. There are two complete sets of firmware on the unit (/USER/PRG0 and /USER/PRG1).  When the unit installs a map update, it alternates overwriting one of them. It should overwrite the oldest. This is controlled by the presence or absence of the file /USER/PRG.FLG.  From memory, it works something like this: When the unit is brand new, PRG0 and PRG1 folders are identical and PRG.FLG does not exist. The next map update overwrites PRG1 and creates /USER/PRG.FLG (an empty file). The next time the unit is updated, it sees that PRG.FLG exists and overwrites PRG0 then deletes PRG.FLG. Then this cycle repeats ........

    If you want to force the unit to use older firmware you can trick it - if /USER/PRG.FLG exists, delete it. If it doesn't exist, add it. Adding is a little tricky but a simple way is just rename any file on the SD to PRG.FLG. It can be an empty file since the only thing that matters is its name.  Then copy it to /USER in the head unit. Then remove the SD and restart the unit.

    If none of that works, you can try loading (or reloading) the 2017 maps/firmware. See the thread in the Hacks sub-forum. You'll need to install the Shortfuse hack first to get around the Pioneer password registration key.



  4. Has this unit ever had a map/software upgrade? Some functions will not accept input if the parking brake is not detected. It sounds like you are saying that you can select the language so it might not be a parking brake problem.

    Just some random things to consider: Did the thief disturb and of the electrical wiring? Is there an anti-theft system in the truck? Did you have aftermarket HIDs installed? Did it ask you for a password when it booted? 

    IIRC, the headunit only asks for language selection on a full reset. Disconnecting the battery only resets a few things. but not the language. The way to do a factory reset on the Z-140BT (according to the manual) is:

    1. Park your vehicle in a safe place and apply the parking brake.
    2. Turn the ignition switch off and back on. The navigation system restarts, and the splash screen appears.
    3. Press and hold the MODE button and the TRK (<) button while the splash screen appears. The “Select Items to Reset” screen appears. If you select anything other than "Cancel", the language and a bunch of other stuff gets erased.

    If you didn't do this, something else is going on. Maybe the firmware or non-volatile memory got corrupted. There are a couple of things that could be tried by booting into Testmode but I need a clearer picture of what the current status is before suggesting any fixes that might just make things worse. Also, I haven't messed with one of these units in a long time and I'm kinda rusty. In fact, if anything on mine goes south, it will go in the trash. These unit's are far out-of-date and IMO not worth much effort to fix.

  5. 6 hours ago, GuidoW said:

    ... However, there is a shortcut function in the navigationscreen where you should be able to turn on and off the night modus manually. I find it extremly weird they give you this option when it can't work without the illuminiation wire connected. So i am curious if anyone knows a way to bypass the wire through the hack, and make the manual method work.

    If you are referring to the "Quick Access" menu option for Day/Night Display, all it does is let you toggle between Day or Automatic. It works as described in the user manual. Automatic requires the Illumination wire to be connected. There is no Night mode setting

    Also there is no hack to change the way it works. It isn't worth the time it would take a skilled hacker to figure out how - just for you.  The solution is to correctly install the unit in your car. It is very easy to install the head-unit correctly. It may be possible to find that unconnected wire by looking under the dashboard without removing the head unit.


  6. The Night Mode setting only has two options

    Automatic (dark background and dim when your lights are on)

    Day (always bright with light background)

    First Go to Settings / Map Settings / Day  Night Display  then make sure you have selected Automatic mode. Otherwise it will always be in Day mode.

    Now turn on your lights. If it still is always in Day mode, your Illumination wire is not properly connected. You can also test if it is connected by going to Settings /  Navi Settings / Connection Status. The Illumination status should say "On" when the car's lights are on, and "Off" when they are off.

    If you can not fix the wires yourself you should take the car to a service shop.

  7. Sorry, what device is asking for a pass code? The phone or the head unit? It doesn't sound like this has anything to do with anti-theft security. Sounds like you are being asked for your Bluetooth password/pin. If pairing from your phone, it would be asking for the code on the AVIC (default is 1111). It is in the BT headunit's settings and is user configurable. But you'd need to get into BT settings.

    Are you also locked-out of other functionality? For example, can you enter a destination address in Nav? If not, the problem is your parking brake not connected correctly.

    You can also test the current state of the parking brake by going into Settings/Navi Settings/Connection Status. If you set the brake, it should say "On". If is always says "Off", that's the problem. If the parking brake switch has been bypassed, it will always say "On".This is OK.  If it works as expected, then you have a problem with the Bluetooth hardware and will need repairs.

  8. Why install this extremely old version. The last US/Can release was 2017. While that is still kind of old, it is 4 yrs newer that 2013. The updates are not incremental, you only need to install the most recent.

    To address your question, I'd suggest doing a factory reset by disconnecting the battery for about 30 seconds. It should prompt you for language when you restart the unit. If English is not one of those choices, you'd better learn Spanish :)

    But do install 2017. Look at the 2017 upgrade thread. Install the Shortfuse hack to disable the upgrade's password check. Then install the map update. You might also update the Bluetooth firmware.

  9. Not enough info to provide much advice.

    What is the map firmware version? What is the bluetooth firmware version? What phone do you have?

    Have you tried initiating BT pairing on the Z920BT? (in the BT menu) You would need to make your phone discoverable.

    Also, some phones have trouble with the last Pioneer BT firmware (IIRC V3.32).  Downgrading to 3.24 might fix it. V3.24

  10. A couple ideas.

    It sounds like you are initiating the pairing from the iPhone. I usually do it from the headunit. I don't  have an iPhone but I assume you can (in the phone's BT settings) make the phone discoverable. Then go to the headunit BT settings and search for the iPhone. You'll probably need to enter the headunit's pin on the phone. That code is visible in the AVIC BT settings.

    Next thing to try when having pairing problems is to do a cold boot of the AVIC by disconnecting the car battery for around 30 seconds. Worth a shot. This often fixes problems after an AVIC firmware upgrade.

    What firmware is your 940bt running? Have you updated it recently? Check the BT version too. The newest BT firmware (v3.32) has issues with some phones. IDK if yours is among them. i had to use older (v3.24) BT firmware on my Samsung Note 10S when I upgraded my phone. See BT 3.24 download


  11. On 7/28/2021 at 8:14 AM, Brett W said:

    Did you ever figure this out? I have the same issue

    As pionara stated, that is a symptom of the parking brake not being detected as engaged. Either it isn't set, or it isn't wired correctly. Did it ever work?  Who installed it? Is it a new-to-you vehicle?

    To be clear, the OP's problem has nothing to do with Bluetooth. The headunit will not allow the user into some of the menu screens while driving so it forces the driver to engage the parking brake first.  Another symptom is that you can not enter a destination into the Nav. It only shows your current location on the map.

    So the headunit must detect that the parking brake is set. There is a harness modification posted long ago to bypass this. It involves moving a wire in the harness and grounding the moved wire.

    If you are indeed just having problems with only Bluetooth, then that usually is a hardware problem. However some have force-written the bluetooth firmware using TestMode. I've never tried that and the Testmode user interface isn't well documented.

  12. You can't just go by the file extension (avi, mpg.  etc). That just indicates that it contains video and the actual compression type and resolution  is indicated in the header record.  I remember there were discussions here or in the X or Z series forums on settings for video codecs.  They also mention PC programs to recompress and convert resolutions.

    Here is an example of one of those threads. I just searched for codec.  Best video codec presets for F series

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