Jump to content
AVIC411.com

RonS

Moderators
  • Content Count

    1,821
  • Joined

Posts posted by RonS

  1. Read post #166. QRASKA2006 where did you see to use PIONEERAVIC to install on the unit?

     

    Hi I tried to update my AVIC-F920BT, it's ok until 93% after I have : "carte sd incorrecte, inserer la carte SD correcte" where is the problèm and how i can go back ? or solve this problèm ? Many thanks in advance.

     

    Hello

    I want to ask WAS for help, I downloaded all the files from post about map updates and software Pioneer Map Update Europe 2017 to pioneer avic - f920BT and kind of ok after all

    1 radio required the password I entered PIONEERAVIC and went

    2 after entering the name of the radio went and 94% of the problem was written on the screen "INCIDENT SD CARD. PLEASE PRESERVE CORRECTLY AND CONTINUE" remained 2 min. to end ....

    ... now I have nothing because the radio is locked

  2. So I can't update my z110 software to that of the z120? I thought that was possible a couple of years ago.

    Of course you can update your software. Isn't that what I just said. Forget about comparing it to a Z120. It will have all the latest bells and whistles as a Z140 except for the calibration mic. But it is and always will be (internally) a Z110.

  3. Used the quotes before and after the pw, did see others get that wrong :smile:

    Hopefully for me it is a combination of ffing around too much with the cif file and using cheap chinese sd knock off cards.

    Will go and get a real SD tomorrow and start fresh, now read up on shortfuse's post how I can get out of the update loop.

     

    thanks sofar for the great help!

    OK. As I said earlier, if the update actually starts running, the CardInfo is good. BTW, I just noticed you have a US IP address (T-Mobile USA), but have an F 920 and are installing EU maps. What's up?

  4. If I would manage to go in testmode (assuming I can launch it with the testmode.key file) which file would I need to delete to recover my unit to old/previous state?

    Giving up for the moment so would like to hand my wife back a working radio for tomorrow :smile:

    Read the ShortFuse post #1 in the Z110/Z120/Z130/Z140/Z150 Hacks & Mods.

     

    BTW, I hope you used single quotes around the godzilla's password when unzipping. That has been the single biggest (and most likely) problem in this whole thread. That would also cause this problem. 

  5. Tried the update on my F920BT, short fuse patch worked, update started afterwards but stopped at 93%

    Will try another SD card but it would be nice if someone can confirm which cardinfo.cif I would need for the 920BT.

     

    Cheers!

    You have the correct cardinfo if the update started. Once that happens, it doesn't matter. Are you sure you didn't change any other files? Use an 8GB SD. 

  6. I'm not shure about the radio stations, but at least it was keeping the custom splash screen and the current audio source/track information.

     

    In the meantime, i made a big step - in the wrong direction. Looks like the nand is finally - toasted:

    attachicon.gifIMG_1056.jpg

    (when running the drive information -> nand)

     

    Is there any hope for this device?

    Does the unit still work as before? If so, I'd ignore that and stay away from Forced Write. I don't think it was the problem anyway.

    Splash screen is just a file stored in NAND.. I also think the current device is stored in non-volatile memory. More likely there is an installation problem. The yellow wire needs to be  connected to a constant +12v source. If it is a switched source, the unit will "forget" stuff like that. A sure sign is if it forgets pre-set radio stations.

  7. Can I update my z110 to a higher version than that of the z120 before I try to upgrade my nav maps? If so, to which version?

    Your Z110 (which is running v1.0 of the firmware and probably 2009-2010 maps) can be updated to v7 with 2017 maps. However, you need to read the update release notes first. There are many changes (starting in v2.0 IIRC) that you might not like. If you use an iPod for music, the look of the interface is totally different. You'll also loose voice navigation commands. It does add Aha and Pandora apps through your smart-phone.

    Your Z110 will never be a Z140. Differences in hardware. But it can be updated to be current. BTW, there's no way to just update the maps.

     

    One thing to be aware of. Since your Bluetooth firmware is so old, you'll need to update it in two stages. It is all covered in the documentation. Read this - paying particular attention to Chapter 5. CRD5009A.pdf. There's also lots of other info there. I wish everyone would read the release documentation before installing software.

     

    If you decide to update, read the 2017 thread. After downloading and unzipping the map update, you will need to replace the CardInfo.cif file with the one for Z110. It is all in that thread. Good luck.

  8.  

    I have purchased a car with the AVH-6350BT head unit. It is forgetting any settings I make each time I use it. Not even radio stations or the time. When turned on it begins each time with the demo mode slideshow thing.
     
    What would be the fix? 
     
    Thanks

     

    Sounds like it was not installed correctly. Most headunits have two power feeds. A red wire is for switched +12V and it is the trigger to turn on the unit with the car's accessories. The yellow wire is supposed to be connected to a constant +12V source. I suspect your's is connected to a switched source. The yellow wire is the unit's power for standby. Most  settings are stored in volatile memory. So if the yellow wire is not always hot, the unit essentially resets when off.

  9. Map from  godzilla whit Password:  'Dracarys'! 

    I also  need CARDINFO.CIF. to change ?

     

    OE9R75LQ2MJ2X72EUR

     

    and replace it with

     

    X07EURX27EURX30EUR

    Was the password you used 8 characters or 10?  No, your problem is not with CardInfo.CIF  If it was wrong, the update would not even start running. You would not be asked for a password. CardInfo only controls whether the update is for your model number.

     

    The fact that you got to 99% means that there is something wrong with your update SD. The most common problem is not using  'Dracarys'  (all 10 characters) to unzip. Another common error is that you modified any file from what was in the zip. With the exception of CardInfo (if needed). The last problem is an I/O error reading the SD. Use a 4GB or 8GB FAT32 SD. The installer program has trouble with larger SDs.

  10. Ahhh.Ok.Now it goes.Sorry,I am an idiot :-)

    Good news that you got it to work. I'm sorry that I got so heated in my response. It wa because I was irritated that this issue has happened so often. That and a few glasses of wine :evil:

     

    It was a very bad idea to use apostrophes in the password. It is just asking for confusion. But since godzilla paid for and provided the files, I have no basis to object. And it was his right to do it. But the worst part is that, when the incorrect password is entered, the archive still partially unzips. So many people aren't even aware of the problem until the update fails with xx% completed. Of course then they post about the problem and someone needs to diagnose and help fix it. Guess who usually does that?

     

    In my opnion it makes no sense to lock the zip file, then provide the password publicly. Once he made the decision to publish the password, I wish he would of replaced the zip file with an unlocked one. The US maps have no zip password and we have very few problems.

  11. For some reason mine BT firmware is 3.22, I have notice there's a firmware upgrade button when you access to bluetooth menu. Do I need to pop in the SD ( Map 2017) inside and select that button? However I have unplugged the battery and 30 min. Plug it back in, everything is functional again!!! And thanks for the password removal script information.

    You have to manually update the BT firmware. It doesn't automatically get updated with the maps. Update BT firmware through the BT settings. It is on the map update. This will wipe-out all BT pairings, so you'll need to re-pair.

  12. The head-unit's black should be grounded. The camera's black should be grounded wherever convenient.  Don't just connect them together unless you add a ground point. If those red wires you are referring to are +12V (switched) then it will work. Somewhere in the settings of the head unit there is a Camera On setting. If the simple red/black camera wires are connected correctly, you should see an image. Otherwise, I've got no other ideas.

  13. Assuming your headunit is working (ignoring the camera issue) the adapter must be working.  Just leave that alone. It is important to eventually get the reverse sensor working - mainly to switch to rear view when you go into reverse. But that is a separate issue. It sounds like you have a handle on that.

     

    For camera testing purposes,  ground the camera's black to some metal on the vehicle chassis.  Connect the RCA to the brown connection on the unit. Figure any easy way to run +12v wire to the camera's red. Even if it just goes from the battery. In fact, for testing, just put the camera under the hood (or wherever a RAV4's battery is located) and directly connect the camera's red and black to the battery. Then go to the head-unit and see if anything happens when your ignition switch is on ACC and go to camera view mode.

     

    Does the long RCA cable that came with your camera have a loose red wire at both ends?  If so, that is just a convenience to make it easier to power the camera - not having to pull another wire from the head-unit to the camera's location. Use of it is optional. Some people just tap into the backup light power, but then they loose the ability to use the camera when driving. 

     

    You could just splice the camera's red to the headunit's red. What I did was add a tap-a-fuse pigtail in my fuse box and power the camera from any switched fuse location. That doesn't mess with the existing harness (no splicing) and is easily removable. But either way works.

  14. I just want to test to see if the camera is woking or not. The following wires that I hooked-up is listed below with the answer:Yes

     

     

    red wire from camera to red wire from head unit. Yes

    black wire from camera to black wire from head unit. Yes

    rca wire from camera to rear view camera jack on head unit. (brown). Yes

    reverse wire from head unit connected to back up light. No

     

    Why isnt the image working even after i changed the camera view settings to ON?

    Are you bench-testing the unit & camera, or is the unit installed in a car?

     

    The camera's black goes to the common ground - typically a bolt in the chassis. The camera's red goes to a +12v source. The unit's red powers the unit (a switched +12v source). It does not power the camera. You could connect them both to the same +12v source.

    Since you are attempting to use the camera view, the backup wire doesn't matter.

    If you get no image, its could be a defective camera. Do you have any other way to display a composite NTSC video? A monitor or TV with a RCA video input? Just to test the camera.

  15. nobody? even a guess ? I have an iPhone 5 if that would matter at all.

    Can you try another phone? Since the NAV audio is going to the front, it doesn't seem to be an installation or hardware issue. Sometimes it helps to reboot the phone. Just generic suggestions since I have no experience with that unit.

    Is this a new install, or is this a change in the behavior?

  16. Thanks for the information, I have tried that already. the last thing is that I have no unplugged the car battery yet. I am just scared that it will reset the whole unite and ask me to enter password and I am not so much if I have reset to another password lol

    First, make sure you are running BT firmware 3.32, It was included with the map update. If you were running the original X9310 software (v3.x) it probably is not current.

    It is common to have BT and/or iPhone connectivity issues after a software update. Reset the unit by disconnecting the battery for 30 seconds.

    If you have to clear the security password, it's very easy http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/83592-security-password-removal-script/ will delete the current password.

  17. On 10/13/2017 at 9:20 PM, Gojira said:

    . I have downloaded the Pioneer_T1000-25818 that was posted on http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/81643-2015-avic-z120-map-update/page-6&do=findComment&comment=336425 post 84 and it said is compatible and then I read further and more and I see that I need shortfuse hack, 4 GB SD card 16kb format and fat32, 8GB SD card 32kb format, modify some files and I got all confused.

     

     

    You are making this more complicated than it is. For a X9310bt you don't need to modify any files. This procedure has evolved over time.

    Download and unzip the ShortFuse hack script (3 files)

    Put those 3 files in the root of a FAT32 SD and insert it in the unit (only do this once unless you got some error message running the script.

     

    Download and unzip the 2017 map update from nezfotnemom  and copy the folders UPDATE, FIRMWARE, and the file CARDINFO.CIF to root of a 4GB (minimum) FAT32 SD.  If you use a larger one there can be issues with cluster sizes. I don't know for sure what the Max GB size is. The Pioneer apps support up to 32GB but the installer isn't as forgiving.

     

    Insert that SD and follow the prompts. Use PASSWORDPASSWORD when is asks. If your car has a weak battery, put it on a charger - if it dies during the update, its toast.

     

    As far as contributions, PM nezfotnemom for his paypal ID.

     

    Good luck.

×
×
  • Create New...