RonS

Well, I collected an assortment of parts I found lying around home and office (not the same part # as you used. Basically 12V SPST digital relay, a cap, and a diode. Started soldering and quiclky realized I wasn't going to make a nice neat bundle out of this. Then, I accidently broke off one of the solder leads on the relay (coil), and gave up.

Then I thought, there must be some off-the-shelf solution - this application isn't that unique!

So I googled "relay delay", and found the PAC TR-7. (through Amazon $19.49 linky) It does many things, and is primarily used as a parking-brake bypass for Alpine NAV units. But is also is a relay with a programmable delay for both ON and OFF (up to 4 min:15sec). The manual makes it look a little daunting to program, but many have said it isn't that complicated Manual. See feature #12. Only 4 wires are needed for this function (ground - black, +12 V - red, ACC - green, 12v out - blue).

Installation of the unit is very similar to your design. So for those who:

• would have to buy the parts anyway (probably $ 12 - 15 @Radio Shack or more if you buy a plastic case).
• don't have the skills or tools to fabricate it.
• want to have more control over the OFF delay

then this is a nice clean solution. I just ordered one for myself. I figure my time is worth a few extra bucks.

Harvey, thanks for leading the way and designing a nice solution to the rebooting issue. You proved it could be done.

Late addition: I discovered that the ACC cut-off (while starting) wasn't my only issue. Seems that the factory radio harness +12V that I am using to power the AVIC also drops voltage or cuts out while cranking the starter. I will need to run a direct +12v circuit from the battery to eliminate this drop. That means I'll have to pull the HU. Project just got to be a big pain-in-the-rump!!! Which means I'll wait until I decide whether to add BU camera & BU wire. I'll just live with reboots till then.

I was looking into making a delay circuit to prevent our Avics from rebooting during cranking when you start your car when I came across what looks like could be a good solution.

This option could allow adjustable shut down delay.

 

What do you think?

http://www.sailorsso...tails&Item=EK01

 

Good option?

 

With this mod you wouldnt have to pull from your ignition wire as the power being provided to your deck would simply come from the 12v constant you already have hooked up to your radio. Basically the 12v acc wire would be used as a switch for the delay.

An even better (and cheaper - through Amazon $19.49 linky) option is the PAC TR-7 module. It does many things, and is primarily used as a parking-brake bypass for Alpine NAV units. But is also is a relay with a programmable delay for both ON and OFF. The manual makes it look a little daunting, but many have said it isn't that complicated Manual. See feature #12. Only 4 wires are needed for this function (black, red, green, blue)

What are the limitations for it geographically? Mine just says no service available, so right now it's a useless box stuck behind my dashboard.

Assuming you are in the US, I believe the service is carried via Clear Channel's FM station's RDS data. In which case, the following link to a Gamin description should also apply to Pioneer (see the cities listed at the bottom).:Garmin RDS Traffic

Hey Ron,

 

Well, if I am understanding you correctly, I went to the "Settings / Navi Settings / Connection Status" screen as pictured above. While I did not find an icon or status for the parking brake, I did try to engage the PB several times but to no avail.

 

I suppose I will check the connection to the parking brake. Do you happen to know where the green wire connects to the parking brake mechanism? Thanks.

Are you saying that when you touch "Settings", then "Navi Settings", then "Connection Status", you don't get a screen that says "GPS Status" that shows "Speed Pulse", "GPS Antenna", "Parking Brake", "Illumination", and "Back Status" ? What unit do you have? Here is the Z120 manual. see pg 148. It's exactly the same on the Z110.

Users Manual

The "Parking Brake" should say ON or Off and toggle as you disengage or engage it. Note: if PB is bypassed, it always says "On".

As far as wiring, I never connected a parking brake, but here is the Z-110/Z120 (same thing) install manual. See pg 12. Install How it actually connects to your car's Parking Brake might vary depending on the model.

How do you go about getting an extra wire if you decide to keep the mute wire in place? I have OnStar services and no extra harness to get a wire from.

The problem is finding extra pins that are compatible with the connector. They aren't sold at Radio Shack. And even if you can find a vendor, you can't just buy a couple. I think you needed to buy in bulk. One member was selling wires from an extra harness. I guess you could buy one and could part-it out. The wire color doesn't matter. You could sell all the pin/wires over time - but would it gross enough to pay the cost and justify the effort?

Is that blood smeared around on the second pic, in the corner? Nasty!

Yah, I noticed that. DNA evidence!!!

If I have an extra harness that I can pull a wire and pin from. Can I add the wire to the new slot and still use the existing wire that I believe is the mute wire?

Yes, and that is the recommended way it you have an external system like OnStar.

I Had it mount on the dash in my truck and it was horible. the avic had no idea where i was, even after "modifying my location". I relocated it on top of the cab and it works beautifully now. So i would definatly reccomend putting it outside!

Strange, mine is mounted under the hood (actually under the windshield-wiper plastic cowling). I attached the magnet on the wiper motor. It seemed it didn't matter much where I put it, so I chose to hide it.

hello all............

i know Google is my friend but i cant find the answer to my question.

 

 

my question

i have a grand Cherokee 2005 and i would like to install the avic 120bt.

for some reason my car has two connections it has a 22 pin and a 10 pin connection. from my reading the 10pin connection is the power.

i have search high and low for a wiring harness for my grand Cherokee 2005 but the only thing that comes out is the 22pin harness.

can any one please help me and tell me what can i do or were can i find the harness with the 22 and the 10 pin.

Try here. http://www.the12volt.com/ It is the same info that is needed to install cruise control. They don't have your yr/model listed, but maybe a different yr will be the same. Or, post a message requesting help on finding the VSS.

Good luck.

Hey RonS,

 

These are the screens that come up. The first is the main menu screen showing "Destination/Phone/AV Source". On this screen I press "Settings".

 

The next screen is the "Settings Menu". I'm not sure if I am in the right place but I dont see PB setting and the only buttons which I can access on this screen are the "AV Settings" and the "AV Sound".

 

 

Here is what I meant to say (emphasis added):

Go to the Settings / Navi Settings / Connection Status screen. The 3rd line displays the state of the PB. Now set and release your PB several times and note whether the AVIC detects the change. If it always says "Off", then that is your problem.

Update: Speed pulse still at 0 after a reset to factory settings performed. Learning status is simple hybrid. I checked the wiring for the VSS, and as near as I can tell, it appears okay. I also checked the connections to the HU, and they look okay as well. I'm guessing that something is wrong with the HU internally. Now, I need to decide if I want to pull the unit and see about sending it in for service, or bite the bullet and purchase a new one.

VSS is really not necessary - it just improves dead reckoning. Is your position on the NAV plot still messed-up? Still doing donuts? That is the biggest issue. Does the 3D calibration screen turn when your vehicle turns? If that stuff isn't working then yes, it's time for service. It sounded like even when the GPS knew where your location was, it didn't know what direction your vehicle was heading (or orientated). That sounds like internal sensors. So VSS might be part of a whole bunch of things that aren't working.

Harvey, I am not a complete novice at circuitry, but I'm trying to draw a schematic of this and my head is starting to hurt. It seemed so simple in your inital post, but now I'm confused. Mainly, the relay you used is DPDT, which has 6 contacts (not counting the 2 for the coil). I downloaded the spec sheet for it.

What I came up with relys on two assumptions I'd like you to verify:

1. You only use one side of the DPDT (a DPDT is essentially two SPDTs) - so could I use a SPDT?

2. Assuming you only needed a SPDT, which contact contacts are used? I'm guessing Common (out to the HU RED) and the Normally Open side (coming from the diode/cap).

If you really needed a DPDT, I'm lost. Sorry for the dumb questions, I'm pretty rusty and not exactly solid on the terminology. BTW, I understand what you are doing with the diode/cap and think I understand the polarity issues. Once I've got this 100%, I'll try posting a schematic.

RonS

i want to know what i did wrong.

Are you kidding? With no information other than "I try like 4times not working", we're supposed to figure out what you did wrong?

You need to go back and read - 1st the instructions, then all the posts. The instructions are correct, so you did something wrong or you mis-interpretted them.

If you have a specific question about any step, ask.

And once you figure out your problem, post the solution so others can learn.

I used a 12v relay from Radio Shack. Must be electronic type, not automotive type. I took 12V (from the yellow wire actually) to the relay (you need to solder or have someone do it for you). The other side of the switch (relay) goes to the red wire. I then took a line from the accessory (was already there to the AVIC) to a 1Amp diode (neg side). On the pos side of the diode I connected a 4700uf capacitor (also from RS)and soldered this to the coil of the relay. The other coil wire went to ground.

 

There is, in my case, a 3 second delay of the unit shutting down. Restarting does not cause a reboot, and even after turning off the key and opening the door, I'm sometimes shutting the door before the unit shuts down (disconcerting to service men, I have to tell them it's ok). Works for me.

hg

Excellent, sounds like just the solution I was looking for. Can you give a detailed parts list (RS part #s would be great!). It sounds like a fairly simple circuit, but a diagram would be great. I'm sure many people here would appreciate it.

After that, about the only other thing that I can think of trying is to verify voltage off of the VSS lead.

Just to let you know, the VSS is a pulse. It is different from vehicle to vehicle, and I doubt you will have a sensitive enough voltmeter to trigger the current reading. I couldn't quickly find any standards (like IEEE) for VSS, but I'd bet there is one - defacto at least. I don't know what marks the pulse (polarity/voltage threshold...). BTW, are you sure it ever worked?

The turning/rotation issue could be caused by other things. There is an internal gyro/sensor that only works correctly if the HU is mounted at an angle less than 30 degrees from horizontal and within 5 degrees left/right. I doubt that is your problem - but just wanted you to be aware. Seems like it would never of worked if that was the problem.

After a reset, drive for a few miles, then go to the 3D calibration screen under Navi Settings (while parked). Is the Speed Pulse value 0? If so, either the unit is bad or the wiring/connection isn't good. Now, while you are on this screen, drive around (safely) and make a few turns. (See pg 149 in the Z120 manual). You should see changes in the spee and rotation as you move. Also, what does it say next to "Learning Status".

hello all

(can some one please explain what is a can bus and what is it use for?

Have you met Mr Google?

http://www.canbuskit.com/what.php

RonS- Thanks for the reply. I installed the unit over a year ago, and it is just now starting to act up. I checked, and I have more than two sats locked (it got as high as 11). Signal strength was good. I noticed that the VSS pulse count was working for a few minutes as I started to drive, then it stopped. I'm going to start looking at a loose wire. Hopefully, that will be the cause. Thanks again.

Maybe try a reset before tearing things apart. There is a way to reset some of the sensors. In NAVI Settings/3D Calibration. Reset everything then drive around for a few miles. If that doesn't work, try a factory reset. You'll loose your settings, but that isn't so bad.

Hi- Recently, my Z110BT (upgraded to the Z120BT) has been having trouble with showing my current location. Sometimes, it gets the position on the road correct, sometimes it appears lost. I also noticed that in the connection status screen, the unit no longer shows any speed pulses from the VSS. Any thoughts on troubleshooting advice? Thanks.

VSS is more for dead-reckoning. If your GPS is good, it isn't necessary (but if it worked before and now doesn't, then you likely have a wiring problem). How is your GPS signal strength? Go to Settings/Navi Settings/Connection Status. The line GPS Antenna should say "OK", if the signal is good. The number of bars indicate the strength. The numbers to the right of the orange icon indicates how many satelites are being used to calculate your position - should be > 2. The number to the right of the yellow icon indicate satellites detected but which cannot be used.

If reception is poor, 1st check/change the location of the GPS antenna.

Odd that GPS and VSS would go bad at the same time. Any possibility the wires behind the unit got disturbed? Maybe some loose connections. Also check for chaffed/frayed wires.

Awesome ! Thanks I'm sure it was a noob question. Appologies for the forum foul of asking a question I'm sure has been covered I just didn't know what exactly to look for

Sounds like either you don't have the Z120 yet, or you have it installed and don't have the installation manual. It will probably answer lots of questions. Is is on the Pioneer web site:

Linky

Just sold my car with my z110...looking to get the same or the z130. The Z130 is $100 cheaper and is the newer model (according to amazon)

I want all the features the my Z110 had so is the Z120 or Z130 the best?

 

thank you!

Some actually prefer the Z110 ipod interface for its simplicity. So if you really liked it, find a used Z110. But if the only choice is between the Z120 & Z130, go with the Z130. It has the same look & feel as the Z120, adds new features, some say the BT is fixed, and it is $100 cheaper. No brainer.

I am installing a kicker sub in my car and I am wondering if the unit has a sub out since I am new to this

 

basically if it doesnt have a sub out Im assuming ill need a line out converter and a cross over from my rear 6x9s

 

so i need to know if i can connect the rca to the amp directly from my headunit instead of by LOC after the system wire harness

Yes, it has RCA sub line-outs (2). The HU Sub section has a Low Pass Filter, phase, and gain adjustments.

Damn. Still can't find it there either :/

http://twitpic.com/4s7zh8

Sorry, I didn't realize you had a Z130. Apparently Staging went away and was replaced with Sonic Center Control. I don't have a Z130, but looking at the Z130 manual, it doesnt seem to do antything except adjust a left/right time delay.

I really didn't think this wa your problem anyway. But I see from your picture, you have HPF @ 100Hz. Try setting that to OFF. If your Sub is OFF and with HPF set so high, you would be loosing a lot of your low end sound.

As for your original issue (sub not being controlled or shutting down - right?), it still sounds like wiring issue. But first, to be certain, I'd do a full factory reset just to make sure it isn't some odd setting. Then, if you need help, you ought to fully document your audio system configuration, all speakers connected to the HU, and how any other amps/speakers are connected. It still sounds to me like your subs are actually being driven off your rear channels.

The first one complains the parking brake is not wired correctly. The yellow wire was moved up one position. Since I'm going to pull it out I will double-check it for the next user.

 

 

 

 

 

I hope you meant the yellow/black wire (mute). Yellow is the +12v always hot.

I studdered. Duplicate. Deleted.

So my solution was not using such a massive sd card (32G) but using a 8G and the problem was solved.

Thanks for posting your solution. You'd be suprised how many people have similar problems. Hardly any ever say what they did to get by it. Those who never had any issues, have no clue on how to proceed except "try again. Try a different SD...". We kind of get tired of repeating the same advice.

BTW, the back of the manual says 16GB SD max. So odds are that you are out-of-luck using that 32 gigger for MP3s or vids. But give it a try, you might get lucky.