RonS

Sorry about that, yes I will definitely start a new one every time. Thank you all for your answers

No problem, and I'm not suggesting a new thread for every question. Often, you'll find an existing thread which addresses the subject of your question. You can post it there if it doesn't lead that thread in a totally different direction. Or, if you want to have a general dialog about several related subjects, just start a new one with a generic subject title, like "Z130 questions" or whatever. That just makes it easier for mods to keep this great site tidy and organized over the years.

i recently had a avic 110bt from amazon.com with msn direct xm tuner and backup camera my avic 110bt burnt so i purchased the z130bt from amazon.com . the harness being two separate wires the new one had a different harness for the video and backup camera (white with rca's ) anyway now my unit appears working two problems the xm says check antenna but i did and its connected second problem is worse a error pops up every few seconds saying tuner failure restart system if problem continues contact tech basically i had the radio replaced the replacement was a z130bt until you turn it on and walla the software comes up as a z110bt not new features nothing. i checked the xm and again it says check antenna so im guessing the xm tuner isnt working i received the third replacement and again like the original tuner error and no xm i tried unplugging the xm connection to see if thats what the radio means by tuner failure but again it comes up as tuner failure so after this long crazy story is it my bad luck with bad units or can it be the install place doesnt know what they are doing they claim it isnt a wire problem its a bad luck what do you think?

It appears the Jack's world is very much like the world of e.e. cummings with a touch of Kafka.

If I wanted to hook up my video camera or something of that sort to the unit how could I do that? Does the unit have audio and video inputs?

Chino,

You should probably start a new thread rather than change the subject of this one. I guess technically you can't hijack a thread that you started, but it helps others later when they are searching for similar answers.

The Z130 has very similar hardware features and capabilities as the Z110/Z120. Here are the Specs http://www.pioneerel...igation.Support

You can also download the users manual for the Z130. Unfortunately, Pioneer hasn't posted the installation manual for it, but you can get the one for the Z120. That should give you an idea of the inputs. Just be aware, there are some physical differences between the Z110/Z120 and the Z130. But the basic idea is very similar.

Anyway, that would be a good place to start learning about these units

I loaded up the following Albums randomly selected from my computer

 

American Idiot, Meteora, Transformers The-Score, Super Smash Brothers Brawl, & Final Fantasy VII.

 

Only Transformers The-Score folder was the only folder that didn't seem to register onto the player. I made sure all the files were mp3's. I'm not sure what the issue is.

 

Any solutions to this?

Don't know the answer, but I have a few ideas.

The manual Appendix does list some limitations on the max number of files and folders, but I doubt that is your problem.

Also, the manual mentioned it supported CBR (constant bit-rate) MP3 compression. I think that implies that it doesn't support VBR compression. I don't know what the HU does if it encounters a file of fan unsupported format. It might just ignore it.

I have a Z120 and the maps suck. They do not show street names, even my housing tract built in 2006 does not show up.

 

Now that the Z130 has nav traffic, have they made any progress with the maps???

 

At this point I need to by a $99 Garmin to replace my $1,500 Pioneer "navigation" unit!

Try zooming in more. Often minor streets don't show-up unless you are zoomed-in to 1/4 mile or less. Apparently they are in the map data, just not displayed.

alright thanks, Ill give it a try first thing tomorrow and let you know

BTW, I doubt that the difference between 10.4 and 12V matters to the backup sensor circuitry, but there is something wrong with your wiring if you only get 10.4 volts when your car is running. Your car is running, right?

Just a guess, but try a full (factory) reset of your unit. This 2.003 update should not affect your video. BTW, you did have a Z120, or an updated Z110 -> Z120, right?

I don't know where you get your infomation from but when i sync my phone and my z120 via Bluetooth, I do see what songs are playing and i am able to fast forward, rewind, change tracks, pause and play when i use my Bluetooth connection. If you can't it has nothing to do with the android operating system it has to do with the phone's hardware, the Bluetooth chip in the phone doesn't support it. and as far as i understand AVRCP was added to the Android OS version 1.5. So if you are having issues with android it is your phone not Android its self. I don't know about other manufacturers but HTCs phones do support those functions.

Nothing to do with syncing the phone. And we are talking about control via the HU, right? Just want to be sure we are talking about the same issue. BTW, it requires AVRCP 1.3 or higher.

Simply google "AVRCP android" and you will see lots of complaints about lack of support for ID3 tags and playback control. Even in Gingerbread. And it is not a hardware issue. I have an HTC HD2, which originally came with WM6.5. It worked fine for AVRCP (although, being WM, it had lots of other issues). I have tried dozens of ports of Android, all > 2.0. None has worked correctly re. BT ID tags or control. It is possible that it is a driver issue with these ported OS's,. That is why I googled the above and assumed it was a common issue. There might have been some releases with a hack/patch (which supposedly was available in 2008), and it possibly is not an OS issue as much as the media player support.

I'm glad your's works. So, what model HTC phone do you have, and what app are you using to playback? I'm sure that those who think this is an important feature would like to know.

I only mention this because it is a known issue. I don't really care about this feature since I play my music/video through my iTouch. I do stream internet audio from the HD2 over BT, and have very few issues (that matter to me) with the BT stack. More importantly, Android's TCP/IP stack seems more robust that WM6.5 in its ability to recover from errors and intermittant wireless signal dropouts.

Hello, I am looking to buy the pioneer avic z130bt for my 2006 Nissan Pathfinder. The only problem I am worried about is if I buy unit and it does not work with the android os system? I talked with pioneer but they said they did not have a phone capability list for the unit. Does anyone know if it will work? Bluetooth streaming music, syncing contacts, Pandora, ect? Does it work with the older models like the incredible and the x or the newer models like the thunderbolt or all of them? If you have any info that would greatly help.

Android phones work fine. Contacts transfer, voice dialing, streaming audio. The built-in Pandora app only works with iPhones, but you can stream the audio over BT.

The only Android issue I am aware of is the inability to display MP3 tags and control the playback from the AVIC. However, this is an Android problem, not the HU. Apparently current Android releaes do not support AVRCP (neither does iPhone). It works find on Windows 6.5 and 7 phones.

my sub amp (MA-2000D) only has a LPF. it does not allow me to run it any other way (full range). i would like to be able to control the LPF (50,80,150) by the head unit but i cant. i would try it both ways if you able to and see how you like the sound.

This is what I meant. Set the sub amp LPF to it's highest setting - say 180 for example. So it will emit all frequencies below (lower than) 180Hz. BTW, mine also has a setting for the low end cutt-off frequency, which I set to the lowest (20Hz). If the sub driver can't handle that low - I can always bump it up. But this isn't necessary.

On the AVIC, go to AV Sound/Sound Stage and turn it OFF (or it disables HPF). Then go AV Sound Settings/Sub Woofer to set the REAL LPF value you want. Let's say 120. Only frequencies below that value will be sent to the sub amp (therefore, as long as your sub setting is set to max, you can use this to control the effective LPF). Now in AVSound Settings, set the HPF to whatever pleases you, say 63Hz. Only freq above that will go to your front/rear speakers. So in my example - my sub handles 20-120Hz and the HU speakers get 63 and up. It is OK if these frequency ranges overlap - as long as their respective speakers can handle it. Done.

If your sub amp has a remote gain nob, you can use that to customize your sub power level as required without touching either the sub or HU settings.

I hope this clarifies what I was getting at. It allows you to do most of the fine adjustment from the HU (and quick tweeks with the sub remote).

Why is this tread in "Hacks/Mods". Seems like it belongs in "Problems/Troubleshooting".

Format SD (Right click sd card under my computer and format) format in FAT32 DEFAULT ALLOCATION SIZE!!!!!! The card needs to be 4gb or larger to complete all steps!

 

Now Copy the folder

c:/update/AVICZ110

to the root of the SD card.

Lets say your sd card is j: drive.

You will now have one folder on the j: drive.

 

j:/AVICZ110 (Plus all the contents of this folder.)

 

Now insert the SD to your Z110BT and it should start updating automatically.

 

Directly from john_tsouris post on 27 Feb 2011 @ 11:01 AM

OK, you said your SD had 1 file in the previous post. I assume ShortFuse's patched files are already in the correct directories in your C:\update folder?

I followed the instructions EXACTLY. Only 1 file on the newly formatted fat32 default allocated size SD card.

Hmmmm, just from memory, but that doesn't sound like the instructions. Should be the full 1.001 Pioneer update directories with ShortFuse patched files overwritting existing files. BTW, Shortfuse's patch can be done after the 1.001 update because he changed his version to 1.002 (I think). So it will overwrite 1.001.

Update: Just checked the ShortFuse Readme.txt:

-Download the v1.001 update from Pioneer.

-Replace \AVICZ110\EU090APL.VER and \AVICZ110\APL\RenewalIFLib.dll with the files included.

-Copy the AVICZ110 folder with the patched files to the root of an SD card.

-Insert the SD to your Z110BT and it should start updating automatically.

Hi, I just installed my new Z130 with oem CD-IU51V cable, it all works but I have terrible noise when listening to an ipod classic or iphone 4, it is mainly during quiet sections of music or between songs, but it is very bad, some static and some digital type noises. If you simply pause the music you will get a steady stream of assorted noises. I even tried the iphone on airplane mode for a test and same thing. All connections check out fine. Does anyone else have issues like this? I replaced a D3 that had no problems so it would appear that the problem is Z130 related rather then something in the vehicle.

Does the noise increase with the volume or does it remain fixed? Does it vary with the engine speed? How about with the engine off? Do you get any noise at all when playing music from SD or CD?

If it is only from the iPod source, make sure the CD-IU51V cable isn't routed near any wires that could induce noise. Also check the USB dongle that goes to the back of the HU (assuming the Z130 is like the Z110/120). The audio is only in the mini-plug cable, not the actual USB wiring. So it is not digital.

If you also get noise from SD/CD, it might be a ground issue. Try a direct ground from the HU to a good ground point on the car's chassis. If you also have a separate amp, also make sure it is a good ground - ideally ground the HU and amp to a common location. If that is not possible, just make sure they are good grounds.

well, I disconnected the hd tuner to make sure it wasnt giving any electromagnetic disturbance, unplugged the mic, gps, RCAs, ups dongle and made sure my ground connection was solid. Booted up, and the pioneer screens look flawless, but I still have some shitty picture quality for DVD and my hd iPhone videos.. It looks worse than a boss or Pyle screen to me to be honest. I said last night, fuck it I don't watch movies in the car anyway but then woke up and said why did I pay so much for a shitty screen. Does anyone think it may be defective? Avh4200dvd blows my screens picture out of the water

I don't know what you expected. The Z1x00 resolution (800x480) isn't much higher resolution than an old Standard Definition TV and nowhere near the number of pixels of even "enhanced" definition DTV (1280x720), let alone real HD (1920x1024). Expect about the quality you'd get playing a DVD on your old CRT TV.

I tried a few DVDs on mine just now. OK, if I bought this unit to watch movies, I'd be disappointed. But is wasn't too bad. I found it varied from DVD to DVD. It looked better on ones that weren't extremely wide-screen. I think that is because even though it is a 16x9 display, the pixel WxH ratio is actually somewhere between 16x9 and 4x3. So the pixel display ratio isn't square like an HDTV.

whats everyones preference..

 

should i use the corssover lpf, hpf levels etc...in the z130 or use the functions on the amps???

 

i am kind of thinking the radio so that i have the flexibility to easiliy adjust...

 

whats everyones preference???

I set the amp LPF to the highest and gain to a setting higher than I would ever use, and use the HU to adjust the filters. I also have a remote pot to fine-tune the gain. My amp is under the passenger seat, so it isn't possible to adjust it on the road.

You are right about it being annoying to go from Accessory to Starting the vehicle and the HU rebooting, that is what I was referring to. The mod is not vehcile specific. Every vehicle (except below) has a "True Ignition" circuit in the ignition harness which usually doesn't drop below 9 volts during the start cycle. If it drops to ZERO, keep looking. You should NOT need to do this to the yellow or hot wire for the HU. It should not drop out during start. If it did, all head units would lose thier station presets and clock memory. The whole reason for your radio (heater, A/C, lights, etc) to "drop out", is because it allows the starter to have as much power possible, to start your vehicle.

 

You may have an issue if your car has a data bus or transponder type key, to start the vehicle. You just have to look else where in the vehicle for true ignition. Here's an example..... A 2011 Volvo SC90 uses a data type key to start the vehicle. There was no true ignition on the harness, most wires were around 3 volts. I found true ignition in the head light harness.

 

I did this to my 2006 F250 and it works perfectly. You can be watching DVDs, have the navigation or any other function of the HU operating in the accessory position and start your vehicle without waiting on it to reboot and/ or having to click "OK" (again if you already have) on the nav screen, rebuilding your VR catalog, etc.I was annoyed by the "reboot" when I just got the head unit and was learning the features of the HU and was in the middle of something and then wanted to drive it around the block to check out the Nav. blah blah blah

 

If you would like a good reference for your vehicle, go to www.the12volt.com and look up the alarm info for your vehicle. IGNITION wire is usually the same as True Ignition under thier reference. It is a good handy source and will point you in the right direction.

 

You may have about $1.00 in parts to do this. Labor depends on your 12 volt ability... it could be free to costing you s shit load of money, because you screwed something up!

Amarillo6oh,

Thanks for the details and the www.the12volt.com reference source. Unfortunately, the info for my car ('10 Porsche Cayman) is missing. Closest is '04 Boxster, which doesn't even have Alarm/Remote Start info. The most recent with Alarm/Remote info is '99. Porsche has a lot of common systems across all models, but a lot has changed since '99. Also, it ('99) says Ignitiion is Black. Does that sound right? I thought black was more-or-less universally -12v.

One odd thing about modern Porsches, there is no ACC position. ACC is on whenever the key is inserted. There is an ignition and start position. If I can get to the wiring bundle (1st challenge), I'll try testing the black. That is, unless you have any other ideas or suggestions.

One question, is it likely there is a fuse in the fuse-box for the ignition circuit? Maybe DME? That would be the easiest place to tap and undo in case warranty work is needed.

If so then this confirms my fear.... That Pioneer didn't address any of the BT issues.

Just to be clear, it is not BT quality that is the problem. It is the external mic and/or the HU that has quality problems. BT works just fine as far as passing audio and data between the HU and a BT device.

Of course, you notice it most of the time when callers can't hear you clearly. Or you get poor voice recognition with VR commands.

Is the mic sold with the CK3200 available as an invidual sale? Looking at the tech specs of the CK3200, I can't find a model number for "just" the mic.

This might be a good alternative. It is for the CK3100, but I doubt there is much difference.

http://www.autotoys.com/x/product.php?productid=19257

Ok,

 

When I first got my Z120, my BT worked. People who called me said they could hear me OK. I ended up removing my head a few times after that to do the bypass thing. after that my BT is completely jacked. Now no one can hear me at all. They just hear "wierd noise". (IDK, im on this side of the phone, lol.)

 

Now I will add, that I did notice a small rip in the outer insulation of the mic wire, BUT the actual wire on the inside was still intacked. Could this be my issue? If I have to buy a new mic, so be it. I would even spend $ on a good one at this point! I hate having to unplug my phone from the dock, to pick up a call. PLUS, when I do that, I notice Pandora gets glitchy. I need to turn off the headunit, then Pandora, then remove the phone from the dock, seams to rid me of glitches.

 

Any help???

If you are not having any BT pairing issues, yeah, sounds like the mic wire. Its hard to tell if the shield/ground is bad by looking at it. I know it doesn't take much to destroy the cable. Even a pinch when tucking the wire behind trim can do it.

Before you buy a new one (unless you are just looking for an excuse to get a better one), make sure it is plugged-in to the correct jack on the HU, although the only other one it could possible fit is the wired remote jack. And make sure it is fully inserted. If that's all OK, then time to replace the mic.

What do I lose by moving the mute pin/wire over one space in the harness? I'm not sure what the "mute" wire does? Can I no longer mute my stereo? Will the sound no longer dim when I get an incoming call?

It is a way to allow an external device to mute the audio. I think OnStar would be a primary use for it. You can always manually mute by holding the AVIC hard-button on the far left. The audio source will automatically mute (full, 10% or 20% depending on settings) when you use the BT connected cell.

European equivalents are F20bt and F30bt, which might be a better bet.....

European units

 

Don't know if there are any Malaysian maps available though..

I think I checked a while ago when a similar issue came up, and the Pionner Far-East website didnt even list a model based on the Z1x00-BT or Fx0bt design. So I suspect there are no maps. Agreed, the other versions would be more compatible for the FM radio (also the AU version). I suspect the US Z1x00 prices have lured the OP.

how really lamb [sic] if that can not be done.

There's enough customizable bells and whistles already. You have to draw the line somewhere.

I would find this annoying. It serves no purpose. The music starts in a few seconds, so I can wait. Sounds like very small potatoes to me. I'd rather spend the engineer's time fixing more important things. Like BT quality.

He's talking about running the radio from the accessory power, and then starting the truck. The radio will reboot every time. To go from a running engine to accessory power won't turn the radio off on any car as far as I know. The mod is to keep the radio from power cycling when you go from ACC to ON.

Yeah, that is very annoying. Sometimes. like when adding gasoline, I pull up to the pump and want to leave the audio playing (especially while streaming over BT). So I shut-down the engine and leave the key in the Accessory position. But when I restart the engine - the AVIC reboots. A very annoying side-effect of this is that it seems to wipe-out the iPod VR catalog. It has to do a full rebuild afterwards - takes several minutes instead of a few seconds like a reboot from a power-off condition.

I expect the poster's mod would be very vehicle specific. I had thought of doing something similar, but I wasn't sure if the power drop causing the reboot was from the Red (switched) or Yellow (constant +12V) feeds. I also wasn't sure it it was just caused by a voltage drop while cranking the starter, or if it was an intentional safety feature to keep the voltage drop from damaging accessories. The Z1x00 manual says the power source required is 10.8 - 15.1V DC, and I wouldn't be supprised if the car's battery dropped lower than 10.8 due to the high amperage draw when the starter cranks.

Since the posters mod just ensures that the red circuit is continuous when the ignition is on, it seems that on his vehicle at least, the voltage stays within range.

The vehicle specific trick is to find the correct circuit (that is, a circuit that is energized when the ignition is on but off when it is not). Modern cars often have this stuff computer controlled and the correct circuit might be harder to access/locate. On some engine it might be easy to just use the circuit that feeds the coil. But that might be hard to locate on some cars with solid state ignition.

So, poster, please give us more detail or suggestions on the best place to tap.

Pg 172 & 173 "Mute Level"