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RonS

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Posts posted by RonS

  1. Hi, two things:

     

    1: I am trouble finding seeds - or maybe I'm not doing it right - is anybody else having issues?

    2: I did the first 1.000 to 1.001 but it still says 1.000 on the info screen

     

    Any help would be great

     

     

    Regards

    #1 - Can't help you there.

    #2 - Did you follow the Pioneer update instructions (pdf file on Pioneer web site), step 5? This has been covered here many times . To see the internal version number:


    •  
    • Press the “HOME†key
    • Select the “Settings†tab
    • Select “System Settingsâ€
    • Select “Service Informationâ€
    • Press & hold left upper corner of the “Service Information†screen for a few seconds

    If it doesn't say:


    •  
    • PlatformVersion: 1.001000
    • Application Version: 1.001000

     

    then you didn't do it right. That is, unless you used ShortFuse's patch, in which case it would be 1.002000

  2. That's odd - as everything I've read suggests that the Pioneer decks have the AVRCP 1.3 spec built-in, and iOS4.0 supposedly also supports the full spec, aka meta-data, song titles, artists names, etc.

    What apparently must be the truth is that either Apple or Pioneer is fibbing.

    How do we find out which is which? I took my iPad out to the garage, ran Pandora, and linked via Bluetooth to the Pioneer.

    No artist - no song title - just a play and stop button appeared.

     

    Since no phones support this that I can find (other than the gent earlier in this thread who claimed that his WM 6.5 phone transmits meta data), it's hard to get a clear opinion on what two products will make this work.

     

    I need a new phone now, and this would be a great feature, if only I didn't have to do it with Windows Mobile 6.5

     

    :)

    Well, the fact that my WM6.5 HTC HD2 works perfectly seems to say who's lying. But historically, BT support for the various specs and profiles is inconsistent between manufacturers. They will eventually get it sorted out.

     

    BTW, I can boot into Android (2.2.1) and play BT audio MP3s using the built-in audio player. No tags appear, but I can use the Stop/Pause and next/previous buttons to control the playback.

    If I could just figure out how to get my Contacts to transfer under Android, I'd run it permanently. So far, this custom port (HyperDroid) is about 80% ready. I'm lovin some of the apps and the phone's VR interface to Google & maps (I haven' tried it through the AVIC). But some parts just aren't as solid as WM in the interface with the Z120.

  3. I'm having this issue as well. It tries to restart the process to update automatically in a loop until i manually eject the sd card. any ideas?

    Yes, you're doing something wrong!

    How could we possibly know what with so little information. You didn't even say which update you are trying. This thread is titled "Step by step update from z110bt to z120bt".

     

    Assuming you mean the 1.001 update, start over with a different SD. Do the original Pioneer v1.0001 update first - with no modified files. If that works, install ShortFuse's files into the correct directories in the SD and do it again. With his patch, the verion should be v1.002 (or was it 1.003, can't remember).

     

    If you can't get the plain old Pioneer v1.001 to work, then:

    1. it is already installed

    2. you aren't following the instructions correctly

    3. user SD is bad

    4. your AVIC is broke

  4. Darn I was going to ask you to send a quick vid of the iPod navigation... for some reason I can't find any real vid of anyone navigating through the iPod menus... I want to see how that is before I decide to buy or not. :(

    Everything else looks great though.

    You don't navigate through iPod menus, you use the iPod interface on the Z120. See

    Z120BT iPod Demo

    and several other You-tube videos. That and Music Sphere is all there is.

  5. I can change the connector between the two. The cable is of the same manufacturer but I don't know if the antenna is the same. The D1 antenna has the letters EDE under it, while the Z120 antenna has the letters JGS. Don't have a clue what they stand for.

    Are you saying the connectors are different? I wouldn't try changing or splicing them. If they are the same, it probably will work. Why don't you test it with the old (installed) one first. If it works, you're good!

     

    BTW, it really isn't critical, or important, where you place the antenna. Mine is under the hood (OK it's a mid-engine, so technically its in the front trunk). For a front engine, it would be like attaching it to the firewall next to the wiper motor. It works fine completely covered with the aluminiuum trunk lid.

  6. it appears my mechanic thought that by not hooking up the ebrake cable or brake cable or w/e that he was bypassing the no navi while drivey crap

     

    therefore I can't do anything about the settings until monday since he's busy. this sucks... is there any pictures or anything that show how to connect the brake cable? I could do it myself, just don't see anything mentioning that step in the installation manual

     

    I hope you didn't pay much for that installer. Didn't he even test the system?

     

    I only have the Z110 Installation manual. On pg 12,

    Light green

    Used to detect the ON/OFF status of the parking brake. This lead must be

    connected to the power supply side of the parking brake switch.

    If this connection is made incorrectly or omitted, certain functions

    of your navigation system will be unusable.

     

    WARNING

    LIGHT GREEN LEAD AT POWER CONNECTOR IS

    DESIGNED TO DETECT PARKED STATUS AND MUST

    BE CONNECTED TO THE POWER SUPPLY SIDE OF THE

    PARKING BRAKE SWITCH. IMPROPER CONNECTION

    OR USE OF THIS LEAD MAY VIOLATE APPLICABLE

    LAW AND MAY RESULT IN SERIOUS INJURY OR

    DAMAGE.

     

    It even shows a picture of a parking brake and a sample diagram. I'm sure the Z120 manual is nearly identical. Are you sure you aren't looking in the User's Guide? You can download the Installation Manual from Pioneer.

     

    If you are going through all that, you might as well do the bypass youself. It is well documented here and even You Tube has videos.

  7. some people refer to the Illumination wire as the dimmer.

    Yes, and that is a point of confusion, especially when they connect it to the dash light dimmer circuit. You can't "dim" the AVIC along with your dash/instruments. You can only toggle between the day and night settings (which can be customized by holding the Mode button).

  8. which wire is the dimmer wire on the 120 wiring harness? is there a wiring diagram somewhere that lists them all?

    There is no "dimmer" wire, but connect the Orange/White wire to a circuit that is +12v when your lights are ON. This controls the day/night display on the HU. If you have Daytime Running Lights enabled, this can be a problem on some cars. I had to disable mine cause the HU always thought it was night.

     

    As far as the rest, why don't you check your Installation Manual, or download it from the Pioneer web-site. And as homework, make a list of all the other wires. Then post it here.

  9. Hello,

    i've tried multiple times and fails every time. Ive even redownloaded the files and tired from scratch ..... Any help would be great

     

     

    Thanks

    This update is very simple. Assuming your files are not corrupt, which I doubt, then it must be something you are doing wrong. Since I can't tell from your post, why don't you spell out, in precise detail, exactly the steps you did to create your SD card. You can leave off the download and unzipping part.

     

    Your SD should have one, and only one, directory in the root: \AVICZ110. This should contain:

     

    Directory of SD \AVICZ110

     

    • <DIR> APL
    • <DIR> BOOT
    • <DIR> FONTS
    • <DIR> PLATFORM
    • EU090APL.HTM
    • EU090APL.VER
    • EU090BOT.HTM
    • EU090BOT.VER
    • EU090FNT.HTM
    • EU090FNT.VER
    • EU090PLT.HTM
    • EU090PLT.VER

     

    ...And a bunch of other sub-directories and files. I just listed these to be sure your copy to the SD was at the correct level in the directory structure. I assume yours was correct or you wouldn't have gotten as far as you did.

     

    If the update still doesn't work, try another SD card, preferably a different brand.

  10. Is it a permanent fix or just when you need to eject a disc?

    I don't use that feature. I gave you the page number for a reason. If you had looked you would see:

     

    "The adjusted angle of the LCD panel will be

    memorized and the LCD panel will automatically

    return to that angle the next time the

    LCD panel is opened or closed."

  11. Make sure Echo Cancel is ON. (See Manual pg 74). I found that it improved the quality a bunch. I don't know if it is on by default. As far as the mic goes, in your case I'd buy a Garmin mic and have your installer yank and replace in one step. If you have to pay an installer, it would be both cheaper and easier to just do it all at the same time. The cost of the mic is less than the labor. Then send the old mic to Pioneer if you want a spare (assuming it tests as defective - which is a crap-shoot).

     

    It is also possible that your installer did a poor job. Make sure the mic is fully inserted into the back of the unit. He might of pinched the cable running it. I was having very poor VR, but I eventually got it working fairly well - no complaints on my calls and iPod VR works fairly well - an occasional glitch in recongnizing an artist/song name - which is to be expected with a 3500+ library.

     

    I don't know what exactly fixed it, the change was moving the mic closer to my face by mounting it to the trim above the driver's window, and re-routine the mic wire. I suspect it may have been pinched somewhat in trying to hide it. Maybe just enough to break the ground or shielding connection, and straightening it out fixed it. Just a guess.

     

    It also occurs to me that some of these mic issues are related to distortion by too much gain, not too little. Some people just speak too loudly, or louder than necesary, into phones (my wife for example). I speak in a slightly louder than normal conversion voice. I don't shout at the mic. In fact, I once tried my VR command at fairly low levels and found it still worked pretty well. But that was driving with windows closed.

  12. I believe I could probably extract the pin without cutting the plug but what if I decide to send the HU back.

     

    Send back as in return (RMA)? Or send in for repairs? If you are thinking of returning cause you don't like it, don't worry about it. They'll never notice a wire in the wrong socket. That is unless you cut it out. Then you'll have to pay for another power harness.

     

    If you need to return for warrantee service, then don't send your harness. They can't require you to rip apart your wiring. Or, if that doesn't fly, buy another cable. And once it is out of warrantee, it's none of their business how you have it wired.

  13. Both the 3g and 4 have worked fine.

    I think you are talking about nano's. He has an iPod Video (5G) - which will work. According to the manual, none of the older 'classic' versions (G1-4) will work. My old 4G Photo doesn't.

  14. Here are the two screens in question. I just want to confirm that the second screen will be the one I see with an older Ipod. If what you are saying is true, then what is the first screen from? It looks like the AVIC-Z120BT front face.

     

    Thanks

    The one on the left is the Z110-BT. It looked like that for all ipods that were supported. The right side is the new interface/software (Z120 or an updated Z110).

    You won't be able to use Pandora with your older iPod, but the rest should work. I don't remember, but I think iPod Video is 5th Gen. Gen 4 and below won't.

  15. I was successful in getting the hacks installed and the firmware. but NOT the free Pioneer 2.0 update. The unit doesn't even attempt to update.

    Any ideas?

     

    Yeah, start over and do it again. It works, so if you are having problems, it must be something you are doing wrong. How could we possibly help you with so little information?

     

    This applies to everyone who has had issues doing the update(s) - all three major steps (or 5 if you include the 2 BT updates).

    1. Follow the instructions explicitly and completely for each individual update. If something is not absolutely clear to you, ask questions here. Maybe you aren't clear about a step and assumed something wrong. No shame in asking.

    2. If a step fails after several attempts, and you followed the instructions correctly, then it must be one of these:

    • The files on your SD are not in the correct directory or are nested incorrecly.
    • You modified the files - or applied the hack to the wrong update.
    • Your SD or SD writing procedure is bad - use another SD and start with a clean fresh FAT32 formatted one
    • Your files are bad - download them again and start over with that step.
    • Your HU is bad. Sorry, we can't help you with that.
       

     

    Plenty of people have been successful. Some of us had to try it a few times to get it to work. The instructions may be vague in some places, so re-read them and try to figure out if it actually could mean something else. For example, I had trouble with v2.003, but I found the problem was the way I extracted the archive created an extra directory level (\AVICZ110\AVICZ110\...). I dragged and dropped the highest level AVICZ110 directory onto my SD. I thought I followed Pioneer's instruction correcly, but that part was a little vague.

     

    I'm writing this because I've seen all these posts just saying it didn't work and asking for help, but giving no information of exactly what they did. So it is impossible to give any specific advice other than what I said above. Good luck.

     

    It would be helpful if those who do have problems, such as the serveral listed above, and manage to resolve it successfully, could post a message describing the symptom and how you fixed it. TIA.

  16. It actually turns off the radio or video but the side menu bar remains on for the options to turn on the desired media. If you want the screen to turn off as well, you go to the settings tab on the main menu and then tap the "screen off" tab on the bottom right side. This gives you a complete black screen and all media is off as well. To turn it back on, just hit any of the front buttons or tap the screen. Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but it works for me.

     

    Exactly, it doesn't shut off. It just stops/causes and goes it a partial sleep. It is really a matter of semantics, and, like vblue42 said, there really is no need for an off button (one that actually turns the power off). For reasons that should be obvious, it would have to be a hard button.

  17. did exactly what the instructions said...it loaded untill 99% and says to insert correct sd card... any ideas? i restarted and it pops up the same screen to insert correct sd card. did the entire process over and im getting the same error. now nothing works. :/

     

    I see from another thread that you finally got it to work. Good for you. Can you elaborate on the fix so you might help others who are similarly "challenged"?

     

    BTW, please don't post nearly identical "HELP" messages in two places. You updated one with a "never-mind", but left this one hanging.

  18. Fellas, I have the 110 upgraded to the 120 and I have an "OFF" button visible all of the time on my left hand side toggle menu. It shuts everything off not just the the screen.

     

    In that case, how do you turn it on while driving? I think it just turns off the backlight of the LCD screen.

  19. I notice that sometimes I am behind the plotted arrow, and sometimes I am in front of it. Not sure if it is a directional thing, meaning a constant error in one direction/quadrant. In that case, for example, I would always be lagging the plot when headed East, and always be trailing the plot when headed West.

     

    This reminds me of the old days before they turned off Selective Availability (SA).

    For you young'uns:

     

    SA was a technique to reduce the accuracy of unaugmented, single-receiver GPS

    measurements. This was accomplished by altering (or "dithering") the GPS

    satellite clock signals, and by modifying orbital elements of the broadcast

    navigation message. These alterations were done in a coded fashion, and could be

    removed by authorized users. This alteration caused horizontal positional errors

    on the order of 100 meters (95%), and varied in a manner that prevented rapid

    averaging of positional data.

     

    BTW, I don't have the reverse signal connected (no BU camera), so I really notice an error after backing out of my garage. The map shows me driving across my neighbor's lawn for a couple of blocks. I'm assuming that the speed sensor and some inertial sensors are using dead reconing for the 30 seconds or so that it takes to get a satellite fix. I guess I should hook-up the reverse sensor. Might as well install the camera too.

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