RonS

Yeah, I hope you haven't already pulled the trigger on all those cables, adapters, and missing parts. I thought it was odd when, in another thread, you said the seller was replacing it with a Z120-BT, which is exactly the same unit. All that it takes is a software update, which can be had for $150 (or free). So why replace the HU if it was working?

You didn't say which inputs have the hiss. BT stereo OK? Sounds like it is only the radio. Is it both AM and FM? Did you install HD radio? Is so, does that hiss?

I admittedly hardly ever listen to AM and rarely FM, mostly BT stereo and ipod. So I can't say if my AVIC has any hiss, or if it is more than I would expect. I do remember having to adjust the EQ for BT audio for streaming talk shows, but that was to reduce the bass. You might be able to filter it out with a custom EQ setting on those few inputs, escpecially AM, which is noisier by nature.

In fact, that might be all it is. The AVIC might have a broader frequency response than your stock radio, which might have had a band-pass filter. However the Equalizer in the AVIC allows each input to be customized.

Remove the old hack and follow the bypass directions detailed on this forum. You will be doing the two wire bypass.

He'd probably have better results with the directions in the Z1 forum

I didn't see the day/night button as a shortcut menu option....what am I doing wrong? Can you give me some additional direction?

Yeah, that puzzled me too.

The only thing I could find that he might be referring to was to configure Day/Night into the Quick Access menu (see the manual p.160 for Quick Access menu options), which appears on the Nav map. Then it is two presses to toggle between Day and Automatic.

The only problem with this is that you must be on the NAV screen. So one more press (Mode) is required. Oh, and add an "OK" press if you hadn't taken the pledge when you 1st started-up.

I couldn't see any way to add Day/Night to the main Shortcuts menu.

If there is another way, please elaborate.

What you have seen on youtube is someone using a toggle switch to simulate the reverse signal. The avic thinks it's in reverse when the switch is flipped. Be careful if you try this, as it will require a relay or diodes to keep your reverse lights from turning on, etc.

Or simpler yet, use a SPDT switch. Only costs a little more than the usual SPST. On the DT side, one is ACC+, the other comes from the back-up light.

I also see mentions of:

 

- v1.001 update

- 2002.3 firmware update

- CNSD-110FM

 

Are those the same thing? or not needed if converting to 120?

 

Sorry for being confused

 

Dani

Just to clarify, v1.001 was downloadable a patch by Pioneer to the original software. I don't remember which minor issues it fixed. Seems like most people didn't bother to install it at the time.

CNSD-110FM is the part number for the upgrade to Z120 - that is v2.000. It comes in two SD cards. It also includes 2 Parrot BT updates, v3.10 on SD 1, and v3.11 on SD 2. Later, Pioneer released a downloadable patch to v2.000 called 2.003. It fixed some iPod issues.

If you buy CNSD-110FM (usually $150-200 + s/h), forget about v1.001. Install v2.000, BT 3.10, then BT 3.11. Then download and install the v2.003 patch.

If you want to get the bootleg (free) upgrade, then you've got work to do. Read the dedicated threads. I don't want to rehash all that here. Do your homework. If you aren't comfortable with it, don't do it.

No need to bypass the Z120BT if you have an iphone. Movies play as well as Netflix and youtube.

Do you really think the reason for the by-pass is to watch movies while you're driving?

Ok I understand the pandora situation now.

 

I do still need the above parts because the one I bought on ebay did not come with them

You can buy the required cables from Pioneer. Gee, I wonder why a person would be selling a HU on ebay without bothering to also include the cables? Probably because they couldn't hang around long with the alarm going off.

Well, I hope you got a great deal, cause it's unlikely you will find someone selling them. These are specific to this unit. You can order replacements from Pioneer, but it will be expensive. You will also need the GPS antenna and power cord. I'd guess it's about $150-$200 for everthing you shoud of received from a legit seller. I looked into just buying a spare power cord once, and it alone was about $45.

I just bought and am waiting for my z110bt. Does the pandora feature work with android phones such as the HTC Evo?

 

Also looking for the following to purchase for the unit:

 

-USB Cable

-Ipod cable

-A/V Harness

-Mic

 

Let me know if you have any of these for sale.

No, the built-in Pandora interface only works with an iPhone/iPod touch. It requires a custom Pioneer app to be installed on the phone.

I comes with a fairly long USB dongle. One end plugs into the back of the HU, the other has a female USB jack. It also has a female 1/8" mini-jack for A/V. Your Pioneer iPod adapter (optional) plugs into both of these.

It comes with a mic, try it before you buy one. Mine works as good as any other non-noise cancelling mic. Some people have tried 3rd party mics with varying results.

Not sure what A/V harness you want. It comes with a dongle with all the AV jacks (various RCA inputs and outputs). You will probably want an adapter to plug into your factory harness.

When installing the 2.003 over the 2.000 and the hacked 1.001 (1.002), do I need to hack it? That is, do I need to copy the two files into the 2.003 firmware before installing it? (The ones used to hack 1.001)

No, just follow the Pioneer instructions.

It works! I got the choose-language screens, warnings, the map, and menus with mostly greyed-out options.

Next is installing it...

 

 

Care to expant a bit? I bought it second-hand but by the looks of the cables this unit was never installed anywhere.

 

Thanks

 

Dani

Since it seems it has never been installed, and it isn't bricked, you are probably as safe as anyone. A gadget this complex can have other issues, such as audio quality, reliability, noise, sensitivity/signal loss. There are other problems besides DOA that these things get returned for. If you look thru the Troubleshot section, you will find lots of issues that required replacement.

BTW, just because the cables look good doesn't mean it wasn't installed. The ends can be trimmed, or the harnesses can be replaced with new. But if everything looked "factory fresh", chances are good it wasn't someone else's problem they were unloading.

Do you get any warantee? I bought mine thru a non-authorized seller at a good discount at the time (pre-Z120). The seller warrantee was the same as the factory, but if I had problems, I had no factory warrantee support. So far (6-months), no problems.

Are you installing it yourself? Depending on the vehicle, it's not that tough. I had help from someone experienced with both the car and the HU, and it still took us 6 hrs.

Yes, I'd carefully bench-check it before going through all the trouble of installing it. I even did with my new out-of-the-box unit. But in my case it was going to be over a month before I got my new car, and I didn't want to get out of the RMA/exchange time window.

Rather than making a cig-lighter adapter, I just used a car battery at my workbench (I happened to have one sitting there). BE VERY CAREFUL - a short could fry it, or worse yet - cause an explosion from battery gases. Just tying the red/yellow together as [+] and grounding the black to [-] is enough to get the unit to boot. So that will prove the thing isn't totally bricked. You will see the Splash screen. You should be able to play with various menu's too. I also connected the line-out to a small amp to verify the sound. Played some MP3s on CD. Some of the A/V sources will only work if you do the parking brake by-pass or figure out how to fake it. There is more involved than just grounding the light-green wire. Otherwise the bypass would be too easy. From looking at the installation instructions, the AVIC logic probably expects the polarity to change from + [no P-B] to - [P-B enabled] in a quick progression. Not worth trying to fake, cause if it doesn't work - you probably did it wrong. If it works, or is bypassed, you should be able to play videos and get into some other fun menus that would otherwise be grayed-out.

You can only test the GPS if you are outside, or have enough wire to run the GPS antenna there.

Again, be very careful. There are a lot of loose wires dangling around, and many could short the unit out, or at least damage some functions.

Good luck. Hope it works. Buy it on e-bay? A used HU might still have problems that would not show-up in simple tests. Making sure it is not bricked is just the first test.

I have both User Manuals, and it hasn't changed.

Didn't look hard enough Z120-BT manual, pg 167. I haven't tried it, but it's in there. Same way as with the Z110.

Operating the picture adjustment

CAUTION

For safety reasons, you cannot use some of these navigation functions while your vehicle is in motion.

To enable these functions, you must stop in a safe place and apply the parking brake. Refer to

“Important Information for the user†(a separate manual).

You can adjust the picture for each source and rear view camera.

1. Press and hold the MODE button. Press and hold to display the “Picture Adjustmentâ€

screen.

• 
   
  
• Brightness—Adjusts the black intensity
  
• Contrast—Adjusts the contrast
  
• Color— Adjusts the color saturation
  
• Color Temp.— Adjusts the tone of color (red is emphasized or green is emphasized)
  
• Dimmer—Adjusts the brightness of display
  
• [Camera] —Shows the picture adjustment display for the rear view camera
  

Touching [source] while adjusting the rear view camera image returns you to the previous screen.

The adjustments of Brightness and Contrast are stored separately when your vehicle’s headlights are off (daytime) and

when your vehicle’s headlights are on (nighttime). These are switched automatically depending on the vehicle’s headlights are on or off.

- The adjustments of Dimmer is stored separately when your vehicle’s headlights are off (daytime) and when your vehicle’s headlights

are on (nighttime). Dimmer is switched automatically only when the value of nighttime is lower than the value of daytime.

- You cannot adjust Color for the source without a video and navigation map display.

- The setting contents can be memorized separately for the following screen and the “Video imageâ€.

• 
   
  
• AM/FM/CD/ROM/iPod(Music)/SD(audio)/USB(audio)/Bluetooth Audio/XM/SIRIUS/Digital Radio screen
  
• AV1 and iPod(Video)
  
• DVD-V, DVD-VR, DivX
  
• SD(Video) and USB(Video)
  
• AV2 and EXT1, EXT2
  
• Rear view camera image
  
• Map screen
  

The picture adjustment may not be available with some rear view cameras.

Because of the LCD screen characteristics, you may not be able to adjust the screen at low temperatures.

2. Touch [+] or [–] to adjust the desired item. Each time you touch [+] or [–] increases or decreases the level of the desired item.

3. Touch to return to the previous screen

Next some questions:

1. What year? its a 2003

2. What are you replacing? CR220? CDR23?, probably not PCMx. CDR23 (that's why i got a new amp as well)

3. What is the stock speaker config? Any existing amp? How many speakers? stock

4. Where did you get the 2din bezel and harness adapter (you aren't planning on splicing, are you?) - I've been waiting on Eurospeed -- they are out of the kits right now.

 

I don't have any specific knowledge of the 996, and from what I found so far, it looks like the console and bezel is completely different. So I can't give you specific wire locations. Have you checked the 996 forum on 6speedonline.com? These issues have been discussed there. It doesn't have to be an AVIC install, any unit with a VSS will do.

yes I've looked on their - without much luck....

OK, since you are working with EuroMotorSpeed, you will probably get install instructions with the kit. They are sort of generic instructions - not Pioneer specific, but they will give locations on where/how to hook-up these sensors. Call or ask Loi, he will e-mail you the installation instructions.

BTW, I just checked his e-bay store and I didn't see any kits for the 996. And his web-site EuroMotorSpeed.com seems hosed.

I found that the Z120 amp was more than enough to drive my 4 stock speakers. You may too. 50Wx4ch isn't mind-blowing, but we're talking about a pretty small space. The sound was much better than my CRD30. Even better bass. I had bought a powered sub-woofer before the install, but with the Z120's improved equalization, I don't think it was necessary for better-than-decent sound. Confession: I'm not an audiophile. I prefer the sound of the flat-6 symphony behind my head I got the Z110 (upgraded to the Z120) mainly as a resonably cheap way of adding iPod and BT. The Nav was just a bonus.

just reviewing my notes and trying to find a couple more answers. I have just about all my equipment in and will be doing the install in the next few day's.

 

I went with the Avic-z120bt, JL Audio XD600/6, sirius connect, hd radio and the boyo wireless b/up camera.

 

I think I know how I'm doing everything but the speed signal input (the pink wire) and the reverse wire hookup.

 

where should those go?

 

do i need to re-wire any of my stock speakers when using the JL amp?

 

thanks!

First, brave soul, many P owners would rather overpay a specialty house to do this. Good for you!!! I have a 2010 987 Cayman that I installed a Z110-BT in a few weeks after taking possession. But I had help from an experienced P car owner& owner of EuroMotorSpeed.com. He manufactures and sells conversion kits.

Next some questions:

1. What year?

2. What are you replacing? CR220? CDR23?, probably not PCMx.

3. What is the stock speaker config? Any existing amp? How many speakers?

4. Where did you get the 2din bezel and harness adapter (you aren't planning on splicing, are you?)

I don't have any specific knowledge of the 996, and from what I found so far, it looks like the console and bezel is completely different. So I can't give you specific wire locations. Have you checked the 996 forum on 6speedonline.com? These issues have been discussed there. It doesn't have to be an AVIC install, any unit with a VSS will do.

Since you are installing a b-u camera, run the reverse wire back to the rear light fixture along with the coax for the camera. Tap the reverse wire in to the same place as you get the power for the camera (your backup lights).

The speed pulse sensor (pink wire) will take someone with more experience than me. Mine was tapped into a module in the frunk. The electronics on yours are probably a lot different, considering it is an older generation. BTW, VSS is not absolutley necessary, same as the reverse wire (unless you have a b-u camera). It just improves dead-reckoning when you don't have a satellite lock. Nice to have, but not a show-stopper. I would go ahead with your install, and just run the VSS wire through a grommet plug into the front trunk, so you can install it later once you get the specifics on your car.

Any luck with this? Was planning to do the 2.003 update but got scared after reading your post!

Sounds to me like the instructions weren't followed precisely or, more likely, there was a problem reading the SD.

Back to the OP's problem:

You didn't say whether you installed the parking-brake by-pass. If not, you should set the P-B before booting. As soon as it displays the splash screen, start hitting the eject button. I don't think the unit will allow the eject to open unless P-B is set. Careful, the eject button is on the motorized screen, so don't hold it too hard.

Alternatively, it might be possible to boot into "Test Mode" before the above problem kicks-in (that is, before the music and update starts). Search for instructions on how to enter Test Mode in this section. There are SD and DVD tests listed in the service manual, but it the information is very sparse. It is possible that the eject hard-button is operational during test mode, but I could not absolutely confirm. It's worth a shot. This will also require the P-B set or the P-B bypass.

You also may want to download the Service Manual.

Hi All,

 

I would like to buy the Z120BT from the US and use it in Australia. Does anyone know if it would be possible to load the Australian GPS map and the latest firmware for Australian model AVIC-F20BT. As far as I can tell these units have no differences when it comes to hardware.

Might be better to buy an un-updated Z110-BT, because if it already has v2.0, or a higher version number, you may not be able to install the F20BT update with the AU maps.

As far as hardware differences, don't think so, but I have no specific knowledge on this. There is a difference on the FM receiver between US and EU, but I think it is software controlled. It is the sepatation between FM stations (like 99.7, 99.9. 100.1...etc) In the US the FM band starts at 88.1 Mhz and there is a 200kHz separation. So all our frequencies end in an odd number after the decimal. I think in EU and maybe AU, it is a 100kHz gap. Like I said, I think it is software configurable, so it probably isn't a problem.

Also, not sure about the DVD region. The Z110 might be locked to region 1. I don't remember having to set a region on installation.

Update: The manual says "DVD-Video discs that have incompatible region numbers cannot be played on this DVD drive. The region number of the player can be found on this product’s chassis."

Also in the Appendix under Error Messages it says:

-Message: Region code cannot be matched (DIFFERENT REGION DISC)

-Cause: The disc does not have the same region number as the navigation system.

-Action: Replace the DVD-Video with one bearing the correct region number.

So, it is not clear whether the configured region number is a function of hardware or software. If software (OS), then it probably would change with the F20BT update.

There is no connection between the parking-brake bypass and BT, at least if done correctly. And even then, it would work with the parking brake set. So if you can play video on the HU, it sounds like the bypass is OK.

To be clear, are you saying that if you press HOME/SETTINGS, the "Bluetooth Settings" soft button is grayed-out? I have only seen this on a few occasions where I had just booted the HU and the BT hadn't initialized yet. I just waited a little longer and tried again. Have you ever been able to get into the BT Settings menu?

Glad you got it working again.

Was your friend's ipod BT paired? It should work fine. My point was that once the BT device is connected and if the Stereo Audio profile is enabled, the phone is not using the A/V out jack for audio.

I don't have an iPhone, so I don't know if there is an option on which BT profiles you want to be active for each pairing. I have an HTC HD2 / WM6.5 phone, and the BT setting has about a half dozen BT options, most notably "Hands-Free", "Stereo Audio". The others don't really matter much for normal useage.

As far as your iPhone working previously, it might all boil down to timing. If you connect your phone with BT disabled, does the iPod audio on the HU work as expected?

I hate it when problems mysteriously come and go for no apparent reason. You never know if it is fixed.

Bt does connect and work. I will try to do a full restore now and see what happens

I'm thinkin you only want the Hands-Free BT profile set-up on your phone pairing, and not the stereo audio. You want the phone to use the usb/iPod interface for both stereo audio and video.

Sounds like what you want is an inverter. This converts 12V DC to 110V AC. Small ones are $25-$50. I don't know how many watts a PS2 needs. Probably 250-400w. Check before you buy an inverter. If you get one too low, it will not work reliably. Too high and you might drain your battery.

These inverters. especially larger wattage ones, can really drain a battery. No problem when the engine is running, but make sure it is switched off with the ignition. Most just plug into a 12V outlet. Some can also be hard-wired. If you hardwire into a switched circuit (instead of direcly to the battery), make sure it can handle the current draw.

You can get them at many types of stores. Like Walmart, hardware stores, home centers, auto parts stores. For a digital device, like a PS2, the quality of the sine-wave will be important. Some cheaper ones are not good for electronics. The AC wave form is just +/-, not a sine wave. Does a PS2 plug directly into the wall outlet, or does it have an external power supply?

Actually, the manual (Z110 - pg 158, Z120 - pg 167) says you can adjust the brightness, contrast, color, AND Dimmer.

"The adjustments of Dimmer is stored separately when your vehicle’s headlights are off (daytime) and when your vehicle’s headlights are on (nighttime). Dimmer is switched automatically only when the value of nighttime is lower than the value of daytime."

To get into the Picture Adjustment mode, "Press and hold the MODE button. Press and hold to display the “Picture Adjustment” screen."

Haven't tried this, but it appears that it allows you to customize the brightness for both daytime and nightime (based on the ILL sensor/circuit) display.

BTW, this question, and my response, are way off-topic. It doesn't even belong in the "Hacks/Mods" section.

Update: I just noticed that the OP did ask about brightness adjustment at night, so this wasn't technically "Off-Topic". However it isn't a hack/mod either, so that should have been posted in either the General or Problems/Troubleshooting forum.

Sounds like a loose connection to either your ACC wire or the constant +12V. Or might even be a ground problem. Intermittent wiring problems are a b@#%!* to fix.

Lifted from the User's Manual - always a good place to start.

Changing the wide screen mode

- Touch [Wide Mode] on the “AV System Settings” menu.

Each touch of [Wide Mode] changes the setting

as follows:

- Full (full)

A 4:3 picture is enlarged in the horizontal direction only, enabling you to enjoy a 4:3

TV picture (normal picture) without any omissions.

- Cinema (cinema)

A picture is enlarged by the same proportion as Full or Zoom in the horizontal direction

and by an intermediate proportion between Full and Zoom in the vertical direction;

ideal for a cinema-sized picture (wide screen picture) where captions lie outside the frame.

- Zoom (zoom)

A 4:3 picture is enlarged in the same proportion both vertically and horizontally;

ideal for a cinema-sized picture (wide screen picture).

- Normal (normal)

A 4:3 picture is displayed normally, giving you no sense of disparity since its proportions

are the same as that of the normal picture.

Different settings can be stored for each video source.

The same setting is automatically applied for the following grouping.

DVD-V, DVD-VR, DivX

EXT1 and EXT2

AV1 and AV2

iPod

When video is viewed in a wide screen mode that does not match its original aspect

ratio, it may look strange.

The navigation map and the rear view camera picture is always viewed at Full.