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Posts posted by RonS
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Here are the two screens in question. I just want to confirm that the second screen will be the one I see with an older Ipod. If what you are saying is true, then what is the first screen from? It looks like the AVIC-Z120BT front face.
Thanks
The one on the left is the Z110-BT. It looked like that for all ipods that were supported. The right side is the new interface/software (Z120 or an updated Z110).
You won't be able to use Pandora with your older iPod, but the rest should work. I don't remember, but I think iPod Video is 5th Gen. Gen 4 and below won't.
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I was successful in getting the hacks installed and the firmware. but NOT the free Pioneer 2.0 update. The unit doesn't even attempt to update.
Any ideas?
Yeah, start over and do it again. It works, so if you are having problems, it must be something you are doing wrong. How could we possibly help you with so little information?
This applies to everyone who has had issues doing the update(s) - all three major steps (or 5 if you include the 2 BT updates).
1. Follow the instructions explicitly and completely for each individual update. If something is not absolutely clear to you, ask questions here. Maybe you aren't clear about a step and assumed something wrong. No shame in asking.
2. If a step fails after several attempts, and you followed the instructions correctly, then it must be one of these:
- The files on your SD are not in the correct directory or are nested incorrecly.
- You modified the files - or applied the hack to the wrong update.
- Your SD or SD writing procedure is bad - use another SD and start with a clean fresh FAT32 formatted one
- Your files are bad - download them again and start over with that step.
- Your HU is bad. Sorry, we can't help you with that.
Plenty of people have been successful. Some of us had to try it a few times to get it to work. The instructions may be vague in some places, so re-read them and try to figure out if it actually could mean something else. For example, I had trouble with v2.003, but I found the problem was the way I extracted the archive created an extra directory level (\AVICZ110\AVICZ110\...). I dragged and dropped the highest level AVICZ110 directory onto my SD. I thought I followed Pioneer's instruction correcly, but that part was a little vague.
I'm writing this because I've seen all these posts just saying it didn't work and asking for help, but giving no information of exactly what they did. So it is impossible to give any specific advice other than what I said above. Good luck.
It would be helpful if those who do have problems, such as the serveral listed above, and manage to resolve it successfully, could post a message describing the symptom and how you fixed it. TIA.
- The files on your SD are not in the correct directory or are nested incorrecly.
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Hi there I have the Same Problem as u, my pioneer say me "INCORRECT SD CARD. PLEASE INSERT THE CORRECT ONE.", what can i do?
Since your video shows German language, I assume that this in not the US update.
Has anyone successfully gotten the EU/German version of the v2.xxx update to work? I recall questions about it but I don't remember anyone admitting to doing it.
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It actually turns off the radio or video but the side menu bar remains on for the options to turn on the desired media. If you want the screen to turn off as well, you go to the settings tab on the main menu and then tap the "screen off" tab on the bottom right side. This gives you a complete black screen and all media is off as well. To turn it back on, just hit any of the front buttons or tap the screen. Not sure if this is what you are looking for, but it works for me.
Exactly, it doesn't shut off. It just stops/causes and goes it a partial sleep. It is really a matter of semantics, and, like vblue42 said, there really is no need for an off button (one that actually turns the power off). For reasons that should be obvious, it would have to be a hard button.
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did exactly what the instructions said...it loaded untill 99% and says to insert correct sd card... any ideas? i restarted and it pops up the same screen to insert correct sd card. did the entire process over and im getting the same error. now nothing works. :/
I see from another thread that you finally got it to work. Good for you. Can you elaborate on the fix so you might help others who are similarly "challenged"?
BTW, please don't post nearly identical "HELP" messages in two places. You updated one with a "never-mind", but left this one hanging.
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Fellas, I have the 110 upgraded to the 120 and I have an "OFF" button visible all of the time on my left hand side toggle menu. It shuts everything off not just the the screen.
In that case, how do you turn it on while driving? I think it just turns off the backlight of the LCD screen.
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I notice that sometimes I am behind the plotted arrow, and sometimes I am in front of it. Not sure if it is a directional thing, meaning a constant error in one direction/quadrant. In that case, for example, I would always be lagging the plot when headed East, and always be trailing the plot when headed West.
This reminds me of the old days before they turned off Selective Availability (SA).
For you young'uns:
SA was a technique to reduce the accuracy of unaugmented, single-receiver GPS
measurements. This was accomplished by altering (or "dithering") the GPS
satellite clock signals, and by modifying orbital elements of the broadcast
navigation message. These alterations were done in a coded fashion, and could be
removed by authorized users. This alteration caused horizontal positional errors
on the order of 100 meters (95%), and varied in a manner that prevented rapid
averaging of positional data.
BTW, I don't have the reverse signal connected (no BU camera), so I really notice an error after backing out of my garage. The map shows me driving across my neighbor's lawn for a couple of blocks. I'm assuming that the speed sensor and some inertial sensors are using dead reconing for the 30 seconds or so that it takes to get a satellite fix. I guess I should hook-up the reverse sensor. Might as well install the camera too.
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Yeah, I hope you haven't already pulled the trigger on all those cables, adapters, and missing parts. I thought it was odd when, in another thread, you said the seller was replacing it with a Z120-BT, which is exactly the same unit. All that it takes is a software update, which can be had for $150 (or free). So why replace the HU if it was working?
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You didn't say which inputs have the hiss. BT stereo OK? Sounds like it is only the radio. Is it both AM and FM? Did you install HD radio? Is so, does that hiss?
I admittedly hardly ever listen to AM and rarely FM, mostly BT stereo and ipod. So I can't say if my AVIC has any hiss, or if it is more than I would expect. I do remember having to adjust the EQ for BT audio for streaming talk shows, but that was to reduce the bass. You might be able to filter it out with a custom EQ setting on those few inputs, escpecially AM, which is noisier by nature.
In fact, that might be all it is. The AVIC might have a broader frequency response than your stock radio, which might have had a band-pass filter. However the Equalizer in the AVIC allows each input to be customized.
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Remove the old hack and follow the bypass directions detailed on this forum. You will be doing the two wire bypass.
He'd probably have better results with the directions in the Z1 forum
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I didn't see the day/night button as a shortcut menu option....what am I doing wrong? Can you give me some additional direction?
Yeah, that puzzled me too.
The only thing I could find that he might be referring to was to configure Day/Night into the Quick Access menu (see the manual p.160 for Quick Access menu options), which appears on the Nav map. Then it is two presses to toggle between Day and Automatic.
The only problem with this is that you must be on the NAV screen. So one more press (Mode) is required. Oh, and add an "OK" press if you hadn't taken the pledge when you 1st started-up.
I couldn't see any way to add Day/Night to the main Shortcuts menu.
If there is another way, please elaborate.
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What you have seen on youtube is someone using a toggle switch to simulate the reverse signal. The avic thinks it's in reverse when the switch is flipped. Be careful if you try this, as it will require a relay or diodes to keep your reverse lights from turning on, etc.
Or simpler yet, use a SPDT switch. Only costs a little more than the usual SPST. On the DT side, one is ACC+, the other comes from the back-up light.
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I also see mentions of:
- v1.001 update
- 2002.3 firmware update
- CNSD-110FM
Are those the same thing? or not needed if converting to 120?
Sorry for being confused
Dani
Just to clarify, v1.001 was downloadable a patch by Pioneer to the original software. I don't remember which minor issues it fixed. Seems like most people didn't bother to install it at the time.
CNSD-110FM is the part number for the upgrade to Z120 - that is v2.000. It comes in two SD cards. It also includes 2 Parrot BT updates, v3.10 on SD 1, and v3.11 on SD 2. Later, Pioneer released a downloadable patch to v2.000 called 2.003. It fixed some iPod issues.
If you buy CNSD-110FM (usually $150-200 + s/h), forget about v1.001. Install v2.000, BT 3.10, then BT 3.11. Then download and install the v2.003 patch.
If you want to get the bootleg (free) upgrade, then you've got work to do. Read the dedicated threads. I don't want to rehash all that here. Do your homework. If you aren't comfortable with it, don't do it.
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No need to bypass the Z120BT if you have an iphone. Movies play as well as Netflix and youtube.
Do you really think the reason for the by-pass is to watch movies while you're driving?
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Ok I understand the pandora situation now.
I do still need the above parts because the one I bought on ebay did not come with them
You can buy the required cables from Pioneer. Gee, I wonder why a person would be selling a HU on ebay without bothering to also include the cables? Probably because they couldn't hang around long with the alarm going off.
Well, I hope you got a great deal, cause it's unlikely you will find someone selling them. These are specific to this unit. You can order replacements from Pioneer, but it will be expensive. You will also need the GPS antenna and power cord. I'd guess it's about $150-$200 for everthing you shoud of received from a legit seller. I looked into just buying a spare power cord once, and it alone was about $45.
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I just bought and am waiting for my z110bt. Does the pandora feature work with android phones such as the HTC Evo?
Also looking for the following to purchase for the unit:
-USB Cable
-Ipod cable
-A/V Harness
-Mic
Let me know if you have any of these for sale.
No, the built-in Pandora interface only works with an iPhone/iPod touch. It requires a custom Pioneer app to be installed on the phone.
I comes with a fairly long USB dongle. One end plugs into the back of the HU, the other has a female USB jack. It also has a female 1/8" mini-jack for A/V. Your Pioneer iPod adapter (optional) plugs into both of these.
It comes with a mic, try it before you buy one. Mine works as good as any other non-noise cancelling mic. Some people have tried 3rd party mics with varying results.
Not sure what A/V harness you want. It comes with a dongle with all the AV jacks (various RCA inputs and outputs). You will probably want an adapter to plug into your factory harness.
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When installing the 2.003 over the 2.000 and the hacked 1.001 (1.002), do I need to hack it? That is, do I need to copy the two files into the 2.003 firmware before installing it? (The ones used to hack 1.001)
No, just follow the Pioneer instructions.
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It works! I got the choose-language screens, warnings, the map, and menus with mostly greyed-out options.
Next is installing it...
Care to expant a bit? I bought it second-hand but by the looks of the cables this unit was never installed anywhere.
Thanks
Dani
Since it seems it has never been installed, and it isn't bricked, you are probably as safe as anyone. A gadget this complex can have other issues, such as audio quality, reliability, noise, sensitivity/signal loss. There are other problems besides DOA that these things get returned for. If you look thru the Troubleshot section, you will find lots of issues that required replacement.
BTW, just because the cables look good doesn't mean it wasn't installed. The ends can be trimmed, or the harnesses can be replaced with new. But if everything looked "factory fresh", chances are good it wasn't someone else's problem they were unloading.
Do you get any warantee? I bought mine thru a non-authorized seller at a good discount at the time (pre-Z120). The seller warrantee was the same as the factory, but if I had problems, I had no factory warrantee support. So far (6-months), no problems.
Are you installing it yourself? Depending on the vehicle, it's not that tough. I had help from someone experienced with both the car and the HU, and it still took us 6 hrs.
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Yes, I'd carefully bench-check it before going through all the trouble of installing it. I even did with my new out-of-the-box unit. But in my case it was going to be over a month before I got my new car, and I didn't want to get out of the RMA/exchange time window.
Rather than making a cig-lighter adapter, I just used a car battery at my workbench (I happened to have one sitting there). BE VERY CAREFUL - a short could fry it, or worse yet - cause an explosion from battery gases. Just tying the red/yellow together as [+] and grounding the black to [-] is enough to get the unit to boot. So that will prove the thing isn't totally bricked. You will see the Splash screen. You should be able to play with various menu's too. I also connected the line-out to a small amp to verify the sound. Played some MP3s on CD. Some of the A/V sources will only work if you do the parking brake by-pass or figure out how to fake it. There is more involved than just grounding the light-green wire. Otherwise the bypass would be too easy. From looking at the installation instructions, the AVIC logic probably expects the polarity to change from + [no P-B] to - [P-B enabled] in a quick progression. Not worth trying to fake, cause if it doesn't work - you probably did it wrong. If it works, or is bypassed, you should be able to play videos and get into some other fun menus that would otherwise be grayed-out.
You can only test the GPS if you are outside, or have enough wire to run the GPS antenna there.
Again, be very careful. There are a lot of loose wires dangling around, and many could short the unit out, or at least damage some functions.
Good luck. Hope it works. Buy it on e-bay? A used HU might still have problems that would not show-up in simple tests. Making sure it is not bricked is just the first test.
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I have both User Manuals, and it hasn't changed.
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Didn't look hard enough
Z120-BT manual, pg 167. I haven't tried it, but it's in there. Same way as with the Z110.
Operating the picture adjustment
CAUTION
For safety reasons, you cannot use some of these navigation functions while your vehicle is in motion.
To enable these functions, you must stop in a safe place and apply the parking brake. Refer to
“Important Information for the user†(a separate manual).
You can adjust the picture for each source and rear view camera.
1. Press and hold the MODE button. Press and hold to display the “Picture Adjustmentâ€
screen.
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- Brightness—Adjusts the black intensity
- Contrast—Adjusts the contrast
- Color— Adjusts the color saturation
- Color Temp.— Adjusts the tone of color (red is emphasized or green is emphasized)
- Dimmer—Adjusts the brightness of display
- [Camera] —Shows the picture adjustment display for the rear view camera
Touching [source] while adjusting the rear view camera image returns you to the previous screen.
The adjustments of Brightness and Contrast are stored separately when your vehicle’s headlights are off (daytime) and
when your vehicle’s headlights are on (nighttime). These are switched automatically depending on the vehicle’s headlights are on or off.
- The adjustments of Dimmer is stored separately when your vehicle’s headlights are off (daytime) and when your vehicle’s headlights
are on (nighttime). Dimmer is switched automatically only when the value of nighttime is lower than the value of daytime.
- You cannot adjust Color for the source without a video and navigation map display.
- The setting contents can be memorized separately for the following screen and the “Video imageâ€.
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- AM/FM/CD/ROM/iPod(Music)/SD(audio)/USB(audio)/Bluetooth Audio/XM/SIRIUS/Digital Radio screen
- AV1 and iPod(Video)
- DVD-V, DVD-VR, DivX
- SD(Video) and USB(Video)
- AV2 and EXT1, EXT2
- Rear view camera image
- Map screen
The picture adjustment may not be available with some rear view cameras.
Because of the LCD screen characteristics, you may not be able to adjust the screen at low temperatures.
2. Touch [+] or [–] to adjust the desired item. Each time you touch [+] or [–] increases or decreases the level of the desired item.
3. Touch to return to the previous screen
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Next some questions:
1. What year? its a 2003
2. What are you replacing? CR220? CDR23?, probably not PCMx. CDR23 (that's why i got a new amp as well)
3. What is the stock speaker config? Any existing amp? How many speakers? stock
4. Where did you get the 2din bezel and harness adapter (you aren't planning on splicing, are you?) - I've been waiting on Eurospeed -- they are out of the kits right now.
I don't have any specific knowledge of the 996, and from what I found so far, it looks like the console and bezel is completely different. So I can't give you specific wire locations. Have you checked the 996 forum on 6speedonline.com? These issues have been discussed there. It doesn't have to be an AVIC install, any unit with a VSS will do.
yes I've looked on their - without much luck....
OK, since you are working with EuroMotorSpeed, you will probably get install instructions with the kit. They are sort of generic instructions - not Pioneer specific, but they will give locations on where/how to hook-up these sensors. Call or ask Loi, he will e-mail you the installation instructions.
BTW, I just checked his e-bay store and I didn't see any kits for the 996. And his web-site EuroMotorSpeed.com seems hosed.
I found that the Z120 amp was more than enough to drive my 4 stock speakers. You may too. 50Wx4ch isn't mind-blowing, but we're talking about a pretty small space. The sound was much better than my CRD30. Even better bass. I had bought a powered sub-woofer before the install, but with the Z120's improved equalization, I don't think it was necessary for better-than-decent sound. Confession: I'm not an audiophile. I prefer the sound of the flat-6 symphony behind my head
I got the Z110 (upgraded to the Z120) mainly as a resonably cheap way of adding iPod and BT. The Nav was just a bonus.
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just reviewing my notes and trying to find a couple more answers. I have just about all my equipment in and will be doing the install in the next few day's.
I went with the Avic-z120bt, JL Audio XD600/6, sirius connect, hd radio and the boyo wireless b/up camera.
I think I know how I'm doing everything but the speed signal input (the pink wire) and the reverse wire hookup.
where should those go?
do i need to re-wire any of my stock speakers when using the JL amp?
thanks!
First, brave soul, many P owners would rather overpay a specialty house to do this. Good for you!!! I have a 2010 987 Cayman that I installed a Z110-BT in a few weeks after taking possession. But I had help from an experienced P car owner& owner of EuroMotorSpeed.com. He manufactures and sells conversion kits.
Next some questions:
1. What year?
2. What are you replacing? CR220? CDR23?, probably not PCMx.
3. What is the stock speaker config? Any existing amp? How many speakers?
4. Where did you get the 2din bezel and harness adapter (you aren't planning on splicing, are you?)
I don't have any specific knowledge of the 996, and from what I found so far, it looks like the console and bezel is completely different. So I can't give you specific wire locations. Have you checked the 996 forum on 6speedonline.com? These issues have been discussed there. It doesn't have to be an AVIC install, any unit with a VSS will do.
Since you are installing a b-u camera, run the reverse wire back to the rear light fixture along with the coax for the camera. Tap the reverse wire in to the same place as you get the power for the camera (your backup lights).
The speed pulse sensor (pink wire) will take someone with more experience than me. Mine was tapped into a module in the frunk. The electronics on yours are probably a lot different, considering it is an older generation. BTW, VSS is not absolutley necessary, same as the reverse wire (unless you have a b-u camera). It just improves dead-reckoning when you don't have a satellite lock. Nice to have, but not a show-stopper. I would go ahead with your install, and just run the VSS wire through a grommet plug into the front trunk, so you can install it later once you get the specifics on your car.
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Any luck with this? Was planning to do the 2.003 update but got scared after reading your post!
Sounds to me like the instructions weren't followed precisely or, more likely, there was a problem reading the SD.
Back to the OP's problem:
You didn't say whether you installed the parking-brake by-pass. If not, you should set the P-B before booting. As soon as it displays the splash screen, start hitting the eject button. I don't think the unit will allow the eject to open unless P-B is set. Careful, the eject button is on the motorized screen, so don't hold it too hard.
Alternatively, it might be possible to boot into "Test Mode" before the above problem kicks-in (that is, before the music and update starts). Search for instructions on how to enter Test Mode in this section. There are SD and DVD tests listed in the service manual, but it the information is very sparse. It is possible that the eject hard-button is operational during test mode, but I could not absolutely confirm. It's worth a shot. This will also require the P-B set or the P-B bypass.
You also may want to download the Service Manual.
z120BT Screen tilting
in General
Posted
Not very well. Page 14. Press the Eject button.