IdentityWithheld

What else is there to control besides play, pause, & skip?

I can do all the above from either the phone or the HU via bluetooth, and physically disconnected.

I don't get album covers on the HU though. I dont think this is possible anyway.

I posted this while back in another thread.

http://avic411.com/index.php?/topic/30022-converting-video-files-for-playback/

With the quirkyness of the HU's video playlist interface, I suggest you use your flash drives for video. Unfortunately, even THAT statement isn't as easy as it sounds. The player is very finicky about videos on an external flash drive.

The iPhone/iPod Touch interface on the HU is more desirable than fiddling with folders from an SD card.

Your only issue is getting ALL of your videos to play from the flash drive.

I never heard of PandoraSkips. This is GREAT!!!!!!

Now, if I can only get rid of those adverts without an upgrade.

As a circuit designer by profession, I know well enough to not purposely run an amp at 1 ohm, even if it's an option. It's efficiency drops significantly at that level, and power is wasted due to excessive heating. You can drive your car with your feet, but that doesn't mean you should do it.

And thanks for pointing out I own 2 highly efficient class D amps. I'm all about conserving energy, as well as my money. Which is why you paid more for your equipment than I did. I will let you assume I paid retail.

You comment on my equipment and post links for websites; are you a vendor? That would explain your lack of TRUE knowledge of electro-physics. Keep posting your websites, I hope you make your quota. I will continue to spend MY money as I see fit.

This is the last of my attention you will get. Have fun with your choices in life.

To all others, I will post pics and vids soon. Thanks for reading my post.

Oh, I forgot to mention that I think your system is way too low-end heavy. This means, your subs will drown out your speakers at high volumes; you are only running 300W for four speakers (75W each), but 1700W for the subs. You are pushing PURE bass, but no balanced sound in the mids & highs.

Again, what is the point of a LOUD system if the music isnt clean? I guess you can answer this, because I dont get it.

I'm nowhere near arrogant, I'm just proud of what I've accomplished; I met my design goals and I wanted to share it with this community.

Well Mr. naughtyca, in response to your comments, here are the goals for my first project car:

1) Design system without adding extra batteries, or a high-powered alternator

2) Design for QUALITY, not QUANTITY

3) Use highly efficient amps (~80%) @ 4 ohms

• lower heat dissipation
  
• less taxing on electrical system & equipment
  
• avoid noise/distortion at higher volumes
  

4) Save power for additional electronics (headrests, gaming system, custom lighting, etc.)

Now, you might wanna stop reading the rest, because here is where I point out the incompleteness in your statements.

I'm not sure of your math, but my mono is pushing 620 watts RMS @ 4 ohms, alone, and the 4 channel amp puts out 123 watts RMS per channel @ 4 ohms. How do I know this? Becasue the amps came with Birth Certificates that indicate their individual performance. If you dont have a calculator, that's 1100+ watts RMS are just for the speakers, subs, & amps (with amps @ ~80% efficient, I need up 1375 watts from battery/alternator). Where did you come up with 600 watts?

Also, I personally selected each/every component in this design, and actually paid less than you, so thanks for pointing out what you paid. Some things are overpriced for a reason. Quality costs, its never cheap, its up to you to know the difference between Costly and Over-priced.

Firstly, I speak the language of quality, not quantity, so please dont assume your system is top notch because it is loud; a retarded kid at a school play is the loudest in the room, but if you can't understand what he/she is saying, then what is the point?

Secondly, your mono amp is almost the same as mine with the exception of running at 1 & 2 ohm stable. Running @ 1 ohm stable will run your system hot, which means you are burning off A LOT of the extra power as heat. Also, your amp has a low-end frequency response of 35 Hertz; my headphones can do better than that. What this means is that your amp cannot produce the true sub-sonic frequencies that only quality system can. (FYI, I'm @ 5 Hertz). You wont HEAR this sound, you will FEEL it.

Thirdly, adding an extra battery will only make your alternator work twice as hard which is why I have design goal #1, so look forward to possibly replacing your alternator. And a cap is partly good if your lights are dimming, but this is an indication you are pushing the limits of your electrical system; it is a band-aid covering up the scabs of not having enough power. In other words, your system was simply INSTALLED into your car, and I DESIGNED my system based on my car's electrical capabilities.

Fourthly, with the addition of a gaming system (which I am working on now), custom lighing, dual headrests, digital cable, and an custom AV switch, I think I did a phenomenal job.

Lastly, this is my attempt to give back to the AVIC community, just as they have been good to me in the past. I share what I've learned & accomplished with my project; I'm not trying to criticize for the sake of saying "Mine is Better".

Sorry for the long rant, but I hope someone can learn from my statements; its not about bragging, its about what has been accomplished.

I think the OP was referring to apps used with the 140's App Mode.

With the statement, "Include those iPhone apps that you are amazed with and ones you can't live without.", I believe my answers are valid.

Especially since they all function very well when wired to the HU.

Programming the "little blue box" isnt too bad. You just have to know WHEN to press the PAC programming button during the programming sequence.

The instructions are found HERE.

Once you have your VERSION # for your car, programming shouldnt be all that bad. But since you said it works intermittently, you shouldnt have to re-program the VERSION #, only the steering wheel buttons.

Good luck!!!!

If you can't locate your antenna, usually the back window has a metal stripline built into the glass, just above the defroster section, that acts as an antenna. You should have a antenna amplifier somewhere near the rear window (assuming you have the window antenna).

Also, there is a mini-connector on the back of the headunit that the traffic tuner plugs into (multi-colored wiring). Be sure this connection is good. But if you dont get any tuner errors, this connection should be good. But you never know.

^{Yourtube (jailbreak app) - play, download Youtube videos on iPhone 4 (currently can't play downloaded content on iPhone 4S)}

^{TetherMe (jailbreak app) - enable WiFi hotspot on 3G network (bypassing carrier restrictions at no extra cost)}

^{FaceBreak (jailbreak app) - enable FaceTime over 3G network}

With a z110 as my base (upgraded to Z130), I am posting a list of my added equipment (commercial & custom) installs for my 2007 Camry. And because I work in corporate America, it is a must that a majority of my installs are stealth; you won't know what is in my car until I turn things on. From the outside, it looks like your typical Camry.

Here are a few things that are inside:

• DTV that picks up over-the-air stations
  
  • Hidden powered-antenna and modified DTV converter box
    
  • IR sensor mounted to HU faceplate for remote control
    

  [*]Premium sound system

  • Two highly efficient amps & subs
    

  [*]"0" exposed wires when mounting iPhone on the dash

  [*]Two rear DVD monitors that can either broadcast, or receive, AV sources

  • can simultaneously run up to 3 separate AV sources (including HU)
    
  • Nintendo emulation in the rear screens (entire gaming library included)
    
  • wireless controls & wireless headphones
    
  • zipped covers for security
    

  [*]PSTwo powered by custom 50W supply

  • Modified to run PSTwo games from thumb drive
    
  • Full emulation of numerous retro systems (Atari, NES, SNES, Sega Genesis, etc.)
    

  [*]Internal LED lighting (footwells & rear-headrest with LED track lighting)

  [*]Viper Remote-Start (iPhone controlled)

The iPhone, and a TRULY unlimited data plan, opens up another level of media in the car; Netflix, HBO, ESPN, as well as access to the media stored on my NAS box at home are just a few taps away.

I designed the entire system to run off of stock battery & alternator. Thus there are no additional batteries or high powered alternator. I went for quality, not quantity; the sound is clean and powerful.

I will post pics and/or YouTube links as soon as I get around to it.

The full list of additions is in my signature. I will post details of the modifications for anyone interested.

Thank you for reading my post.

What did I do to remedy the problem?

I noticed that when the rear monitor output is set to a particular source, THAT source will continue to play when the source is changed.

Why is this the case?

Because we all have the luxury of having a dual-zone headunit. The rear monitor output can "Mirror AV", thus, whatever video is playing up front (DVD or iPod/iPhone ONLY) will play in the back. Or you can set the rear source to "DVD", "AV1", or "AV2", and the source will continue to play in the back, no matter what the source is up front.

Keep in mind, only video from the DVD or iPod/iPhone can be shown in the back seat.

hope this helps.

I dont think this problem is that serious, but its very annoying. I've had this problem with DVDs & iPod videos continuing to play after switching sources.

What did I do to remedy the problem?

I noticed that when the rear monitor output is set to a particular source, THAT source will continue to play when the source is changed.

Why is this the case?

Because we all have the luxury of having a dual-zone headunit. The rear monitor output can "Mirror AV", thus, whatever video is playing up front (DVD or iPod/iPhone ONLY) will play in the back. Or you can set the rear source to "DVD", "AV1", or "AV2", and the source will continue to play in the back, no matter what the source is up front.

Keep in mind, only video from the DVD or iPod/iPhone can be shown in the back seat.

hope this helps.

At least for the Z110 upgraded to Z130, Netflix is displayed in 16x9 full screen so long as the actual video is in 16x9. If the source video is 4x3, then there will be black bars on each side of the headunit's screen.

Only video apps that have built in video out will display on the screen of the unit. Very few apps have this so in the future you will want to be sure before purchasing. Now, all that being said the only thing you can do to get it to work is to jailbreak your iPhone and install a tv out extension from Cydia. Google is your friend for jailbreak and Cydia app details.

Well said. I second that.

We need to keep this thread live. I chipped in my hard-earned duckets to purchase the last upgrade for us all; I am more than willing to do it again.

For the last year, Ive been dealing with a finicky PAC SWI-PS control module. I re-programmed this thing about 50 times and still couldn't get it to work properly. What did I do to figure out the solution to this issue? I'll get to that in a minute.

Background:

I drive a 2007 Camry equipped with a Z110 (upgraded to Z130 & bypassed), HD-Radio add-on (GEX-P20HD), traffic tuner add-on (ND-TMC10), PAC SWI-PS steering wheel control module, jailbroken iPhone 4S, and a few custom add-ons [modified dash kit with LED indicator light & IR senesor for hidden DTV converter & antenna, iPhone dock with hidden wiring, full internal LED bulb replacements, LED footwell lights, HID headlight kit, DVD headrests with built-in Nintendo games & wireless headphones, and Viper alarm with iPhone remote start]. I also managed to design a high powered system with two amps (1000W RMS) and two hard-hitting 12" subs in the trunk, all on stock battery/alternator (yes, this is possible). I plan to make a youtube video of my car, I just haven't taken the time to do so; I will keep everyone posted.

Now, back to why I wrote this thread; the PAC SWI-PS. As I approach police cars on my daily drive, I have trouble turning off the video thats running while the car is in motion. Sometimes I just want to switch the source in a pinch, but i have to do a few touch screen motions to do so. All because my PAC SWI-PS decides NOT to work at any given moment. But this is no longer an issue. What did I do to remedy the situation?

<< ........drumroll .......... >>

I programmed the PAC SWI-PS with the car running, headlights on, and the AC (or heat) at full blast. Why does this work? Because the PAC module uses voltage-dividing levels to determine which button is pushed. If it is programmed with the car cold, the problem occurs when the headlights are turned on, or the AC/heat is turned on, the voltage-dividing levels are changed. I found this out by noticing one of my VOLUME buttons on my steering wheel would consistently act as my SOURCE button when the headlights were on (very irritating). This indicates the values of each button has shifted, some of which was out-of-range for the desired voltage levels. Thus, with the headlights & AC/heat on while programming, the voltage levels of the steering wheel buttons are still within the desired range when the lights are off.

Conclusion:

I am now so happy with my system responding to my every wish.

Thank you for reading my post.

You need to buy the GEX-P20HD tuner, and add it to your Z110BT. Only then will you have HD radio with your current Z110BT setup.

You can still upgrade to the 140 software when its released and retain the voice control.

Retaining voice-control for functions of the radio, "YES"; for navigation control, "NO". If this statement is not true, is there some documentation that can prove it to be wrong?

I'm sure Pioneer would've put the VR software package for navigation into the Z140BH, if they could. My guess is that the VR is partially tied to the new Navteq maps. Or maybe a license issue between the company who owns the Voice-Recognition software, and Navteq.

To take it a step further, if your statement is correct, and the Z110/Z120/Z130 retained its voice-navigation after upgrading its software to match the Z140, then nobody would buy a z140. It would be stupid NOT to buy a Z110 /Z120/Z130, and upgrade it.

At the end of the day, I hope I'm wrong, and I could retain voice-navigation if I upgraded my Z110 ot a Z140, but I doubt it.

The iPhone 4s 32GB works with the CD-UI50V.

I used the same cable the entire time i had my z110, and I didn't notice any difference in functionality when I switched from an iPod Touch 1st gen to an iPhone 4s (other than speed of the device). The 4s is about 10 times faster than the 1st gen iPod Touch.

No navigation voice-control? WTF? I already have the HD-Radio, on my Z110 => upgraded to z130, and an iPhone for Aha Radio & Pandora. So, the question for me is: Slightly old Tele-Atlas maps with voice control, or updated NavTeq maps without voice control? Although its not perfect, I think I'll keep the voice-controlled navigation. When voice-navigtion doesn't work on my Z110BT , its simply a Z140BH with old maps,. But when it works, its the SHIT!!!!! ... but with old maps.

I'm having the same problem as ikelove500, I can get audio but no video at all, I have a Z110 upgraded to a Z130. I've tried all the settings possible. I'm on ipod in the avi settings. Don't know if this would matter but I'm using an ipod instead of a iphone. (connected over wifi ofcourse) I get pandora to work, aha radio works. just no video. Am I missing something. My cable is also a genuine pioneer from a dealer. Any HELP would be greatly appreciated

Try toggling "APP" mode. And in the TvOut2 app, make sure "TV OFF" is the only thing highlighed. You only need this app if the app you are trying to use doesn't support the TVOut fucntionality (e.g. early versions of the Netflix app, HBO app, etc.)

I will save you some time........

you will never get Videos to play on your rear monitors because the z110/120/130 don't have the capability. You can send DVD, or iPhone/iPod video, to the rear screens but that's it.

This has been covered MANY times.

Start a video, hit the "App Mode" button to give control to my iPhone, then hit "App Mode" to give control back to the Z110, and the video comes on.

If that doesnt work, go to iTunes, select all your videos and change the "file type" to "Music Video". This is the only way you will be able to put your videos into a playlist. Once you have your videos in a playlist, open up the playlist under your "Music" menu on the headunit, and do the steps given above.

Also, if you are using a jailbroken iPhone/iPod, and running a TVOut app, make sure your "Video Out" is turned OFF.