Amarillo6oh

NO Help huh??

NEX-8200

Originally, I would get an incompatible USB message but now when I plug in my iPhone, it will go silent (playing Pandora via Bluetooth)

AVICSYNC doesn't do anything either.

I can't get the phone to connect to the unit, no matter what. 

HU is 1.04 and brand new

I have tried a new pioneer lighting to USB, using an extension, NO extension (plugged directly into the HU), different HDMI cables, different Apple dongles (HDMI/ lightning) 

Has ANYONE ran into this and figured this out?? Thanks

Mine is not recognizing the USB either - iPhone 7

Has anyone come up with a solution?

Mine doesn't even see the iPhone

Wait so you're saying it works fine going directly to the head unit and not using the pioneer cable?   You're only complaining about the pioneer cable?  

NO. It doesn't work at all, plugged directly into the HU

I ordered a replacement.

Did you make sure you went into smartphone setup in the head unit and set it to Apple??  

 

Have you tried the phone as an iPOD using the head unit's normal ipod playback, not in carplay?

 

I'm using the amazon basics lightning cable going through a USB bulkhead connector mounted in my center console(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XL09YLW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1).  Works great with my iphone 6 iOS 10.3.1  

Yes

No

It just won't recognize the Pioneer USB cable - I have the cable you show but it's useless if it won't even recognize the Pioneer cable. 

The Pioneer CD-IU52 usb cable is plugged directly into the back of the HU into USB 1

I read to try another USB cable but I eliminated that problem by going directly into the head unit. Has anyone had an issue with the Pioneer cable?

I have done a reset  on the unit as well as rebooting the phone.

I have also tried 3 different Apple HDMI/ lightning plugs

iPhone 7 - iOS 10.3.2

 Deleted - not sure on how to remove it

Thanks

I have been out of the scene for a while and I'm looking to upgrade my AVIC Z3 head unit. Can I get some reviews and comments on this unit before I spend a lot of coin? Are there any reputable places to purchase at a good price too? Thanks! 

Amarillo6oh,

Thanks for the details and the www.the12volt.com reference source. Unfortunately, the info for my car ('10 Porsche Cayman) is missing. Closest is '04 Boxster, which doesn't even have Alarm/Remote Start info. The most recent with Alarm/Remote info is '99. Porsche has a lot of common systems across all models, but a lot has changed since '99. Also, it ('99) says Ignitiion is Black. Does that sound right? I thought black was more-or-less universally -12v.

 

One odd thing about modern Porsches, there is no ACC position. ACC is on whenever the key is inserted. There is an ignition and start position. If I can get to the wiring bundle (1st challenge), I'll try testing the black. That is, unless you have any other ideas or suggestions.

 

One question, is it likely there is a fuse in the fuse-box for the ignition circuit? Maybe DME? That would be the easiest place to tap and undo in case warranty work is needed.

I have no experience with Porsches. I would guess thatis is a data bus type system. You could just call you local car stereo shop and tell them what you are looking for and they may be able to help you. Good luck.

Yeah, that is very annoying. Sometimes. like when adding gasoline, I pull up to the pump and want to leave the audio playing (especially while streaming over BT). So I shut-down the engine and leave the key in the Accessory position. But when I restart the engine - the AVIC reboots. A very annoying side-effect of this is that it seems to wipe-out the iPod VR catalog. It has to do a full rebuild afterwards - takes several minutes instead of a few seconds like a reboot from a power-off condition.

 

I expect the poster's mod would be very vehicle specific. I had thought of doing something similar, but I wasn't sure if the power drop causing the reboot was from the Red (switched) or Yellow (constant +12V) feeds. I also wasn't sure it it was just caused by a voltage drop while cranking the starter, or if it was an intentional safety feature to keep the voltage drop from damaging accessories. The Z1x00 manual says the power source required is 10.8 - 15.1V DC, and I wouldn't be supprised if the car's battery dropped lower than 10.8 due to the high amperage draw when the starter cranks.

 

Since the posters mod just ensures that the red circuit is continuous when the ignition is on, it seems that on his vehicle at least, the voltage stays within range.

 

The vehicle specific trick is to find the correct circuit (that is, a circuit that is energized when the ignition is on but off when it is not). Modern cars often have this stuff computer controlled and the correct circuit might be harder to access/locate. On some engine it might be easy to just use the circuit that feeds the coil. But that might be hard to locate on some cars with solid state ignition.

 

So, poster, please give us more detail or suggestions on the best place to tap.

You are right about it being annoying to go from Accessory to Starting the vehicle and the HU rebooting, that is what I was referring to. The mod is not vehcile specific. Every vehicle (except below) has a "True Ignition" circuit in the ignition harness which usually doesn't drop below 9 volts during the start cycle. If it drops to ZERO, keep looking. You should NOT need to do this to the yellow or hot wire for the HU. It should not drop out during start. If it did, all head units would lose thier station presets and clock memory. The whole reason for your radio (heater, A/C, lights, etc) to "drop out", is because it allows the starter to have as much power possible, to start your vehicle.

You may have an issue if your car has a data bus or transponder type key, to start the vehicle. You just have to look else where in the vehicle for true ignition. Here's an example..... A 2011 Volvo SC90 uses a data type key to start the vehicle. There was no true ignition on the harness, most wires were around 3 volts. I found true ignition in the head light harness.

I did this to my 2006 F250 and it works perfectly. You can be watching DVDs, have the navigation or any other function of the HU operating in the accessory position and start your vehicle without waiting on it to reboot and/ or having to click "OK" (again if you already have) on the nav screen, rebuilding your VR catalog, etc.I was annoyed by the "reboot" when I just got the head unit and was learning the features of the HU and was in the middle of something and then wanted to drive it around the block to check out the Nav. blah blah blah

If you would like a good reference for your vehicle, go to www.the12volt.com and look up the alarm info for your vehicle. IGNITION wire is usually the same as True Ignition under thier reference. It is a good handy source and will point you in the right direction.

You may have about $1.00 in parts to do this. Labor depends on your 12 volt ability... it could be free to costing you s shit load of money, because you screwed something up!

I found it quite annoying that the system would reboot every time I needed to start my truck.

All you need to do is add a fused 12 volt wire from your "True Ignition" circuit from you ignition harness WITH a diode, right into the red switched wire on the head unit. Have the band of the diode going towards the head unit - VELLA !!

The diode blocks the 12 volts from feeding back into the Ignitoin circuit, when you have your key in the Accessory posistion. You should be able to find them at Radio Shack of maybe a car audio shop will give you one!

True Igniton = 12 volts does not drop out during the start cycle.