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have you tried (Tom) @Beach auto sound theyve been around a long time.

He could put in a capacitor to help get rid of the dimming on hits as well.

I don't know about anyone else but I think caps are an overmarketed pile. the money should be put elsewhere such as mentioned by xploder ( the big 3) however I would first start with a upgraded ground from the batt to frame and chasis. I have had alot of success with just that upgrade alone. being a 2007 vehicle the battery should be ok but I would have it tested also.

I talked to the tech at bypasskits yesterday and after a few try this and try that we came up with the conclusion that the 2008 saab 9-7x has a different factory security system and that they do not plan on a firmware update on this vehicle as of now. this xk01 works on the 2006-07 just fine but something has changed in 08. we ended up with 3 fixes:

1) to use the xk01 and program it for platform #4 instead of #1. what happened here is that the rs system works fine and locks/ unlocks the doors etc, however the factory security does not arm up unless the door lock switch is pressed while the door is open while exiting the vehicle or by pressing the factory key fob on the key. the rs fob will unlock and disarm the system properly.

2) use a spare key in a transponder bypass box. problem is the cost of that key is $182 ( $50) to program and can only be done thru the scantool. OUCH

3) use a single button rs with no keyless and use the factory fob for lock/unlock.

my friend was given the rs for xmas and it would be a hassle to try to get it exchange for a single button so we went with option #1 because he usually locks the door with the switch any way while exiting the vehicle.

sorry I know this is a rs issue and not navi but after all I've been thru I thought I would pass on the info, it may help someone else

thanks for the help that was offered by you misfit & cntrylvr79

oh P.S. on the 2008 there is the 3rd ign (yellow) and also the brown acc wire needs to be powered up also. if not there will be a message in the dic to check the stabiltrack system.

The bypass may not be compatible with the 08 yet. Have you tried using a key in the box for now. Odds are they'll release new firmware down the line to allow the passkey III to work properly on the 08

I'll have to give their techs a call to check it out. seem the passkey 3 signal is working because the vehicle does start and on most the pk3 systems I have worked on in the past if the signal wasn't correct or the ant ring not positioned right the car would power up but have no crank. maybe theres 2 signals or posibly a longer signal. I'll get back tomorrow and let you guys know what I find out. I was trying to keep from having to use the key in the box method, that key is $125 cause the factory keyless entry is on it also. thanks again guys

ok, there is no third ignition on that vehicle. so i would start by disconnecting that wire first

thanks I'll go disconnect that real quick and see what happens. when I was testing the ign switch I noticed that there were 2 yellows

1 for starter and the other had 12 volts even when in crank and did not drop out like the brown/ radio acc wire does so I fiqured it needed to be powered up similar to the need of the white being powered up for trans circuit.

be back to let yu know. thanks again

ok well I disconnected the yellow power, triggered the rs and the light stayed on. I inserted the key and it went out same as before so thinking YEAH alwright now, I started it up by rs again let it run for 5 min then went out back out and the light was on, inserted the key and the light stayed on, I tried leaving the key in the run position and tapped the brake to cancel the remote start circuit, the light stayed on.

I shut the vehicle down and started it with the key, the light comes on with all other indicators and then goes out with all other indicator lights.

curious about the one you did wherethe light did go out, how long could you wait before putting the key in and still have the light go out?

thanks for your time and help.

ok, there is no third ignition on that vehicle. so i would start by disconnecting that wire first

thanks I'll go disconnect that real quick and see what happens. when I was testing the ign switch I noticed that there were 2 yellows

1 for starter and the other had 12 volts even when in crank and did not drop out like the brown/ radio acc wire does so I fiqured it needed to be powered up similar to the need of the white being powered up for trans circuit.

be back to let yu know. thanks again

i did one the other day with that same bypass. it worked fine other than that light coming on. but on mine the light went out as soon as i put the key in the ignition. if its not going out once you insert the key, then you either have the bypass programmed wrong or your not energizing all wires in the proper order.

when I do remote start, if I put the key in the ign within say 'bout 1-2 minutes the light the light does go out however if I wait longer and then put the key in the light stays on. if I either cancel the remote start either by pressing the brake or by the fob and then restart the vehicle with the ign key the light comes on at start up then goes out the way it should normally.

for programming I used platform 1 and then in mode I programmed for priority door unlock.

for wiring I had:

ign 1- pink

ign 2- white

ign 3- yellow

acc - orange

starter- yellow

I did not do the relay to the brown for the window roll up.

for the 3rd ign I used a fused relay to constant 12v and used the ground when running to trigger the relay. thinking there could be aslight delay in power up to ign 3 I swapped it with the remote start ign 2 as a test and it performed the same.with the test being the same I put it back to my original wiring.

ps the remote unit is a ultra start 1270

thanks again for any thoughts on this.

I know this site is mostly for pioneer nav systems but I realize there's alot of smart installers here also so here's my question. has anyone installed a remote start on a 2008 Saab 9-7x? I am installing one in a friends 9-7x and using the bypasskits module xk01 origrammed to the amdl6. it all works, locks. unlocks, a/da of factory alarm, starts fine but the problem is that when the vehicle is remote started the factory alarm/ vehicle lock indicator on the inst cluster comes on and stays on even afer disarm & unlocking the vehicle and inserting the factory key. this seems to have something to do with the passkey 3 system because if I remote start with the rs fob and have the factory key near the ign switch the light does go off as it should. normally with passkey 3 systems if the bcm does not get the proper signal from the key the vehicle will not crank or start and this vehicle does start and run with the module plugged into the dlc and if I unplug the module and try to remote start I don't get any crank which is how I would expect it to work. sorry for being long winded here but needed to give details in order to hope for any input from anyone. thanks in advance for any help

LOL lots of competition on ur corners? did some one put u out of business? j/k

naw, it's too dangerous out there in detroit and besides I'm a family man now with 2 young ones, need to be here for them.

now just a dumb ? what does the j/k at the end mean. I still trying to get all these acronyms together

start your own business. maybe a street pharmacist? ive heard they make lots of monye!!!

now why would you say that? we all know that is illegal, besides all the local corners are already taken.

after only 7 yrs at the place I 've been at I was told yesterday that I was being laid off and could maybe able to come back if business picks up. seems some companies want to pay more people lower wages than those that have experiance. I was talking to a shop owner just today and after looking at my app he toldme that I was over qualified. now that really sucks, I mean you do the best you can, stay open minded to suggestions, are good with customers and do quality work with hardly any complaints and now you are over qualified and told " heck I can get 2 people for what you want to get paid". what a bunch of *********IT, sorry for ragging and yes I will have some cheese with that whine.

hello, anyone out there? I was sure I could get an answer here.

hello, I am sure that this topic may be here somewhere but I am not sure where to look,

I fiqured this forum would be the best place to ask, is there a safe website that I can download and burn movies free. some sites say free but then they want to charge a membership charge, is this normal? I have heard some of these sites can harm your computer. also can someone explain the different versions of video, I have seen different acronyms like avi, torrent etc. thanks for any help you may be able to offer.

Yeah, if you're looking for the metal installation sleeve that the unit slides into, that's pretty much the only place you can get it. But if you're talking installation trim kits/bezels,whatever, you can go to pretty much any store that sells car stereo equipment, like Best Buy, Circuit city, etc. or any local car stereo installer and they'll have them. Or you could buy from one of the 20 million online stores that sell that kind of stuff.

huh

yes thats what they wanted to make us happy and to keep some engineer from profiting off them

ummm, with some carmel

you could try schosche, someone here may have the phone # or you could look it up online ( sorry, I usually use metra parts ) also I'm not sure but american international is another kitting company. good luck.

alot of the german cars need a special ant adaptor that needs powers for the factory ant module. you should ask the "professionals" what type of ant ant adaptor they used and then call 1800 221 0932 ( metra) and compare the part # they give you. the powered ant adaptors are generally 25-$40.

not all components are compatible to each other. there are resolution, signal voltages, power supplies and ground specs. you could also have interference that is a radiated signal. some here may remember back in the late 80's and early 90's in ford trucks they had and ign harness that came accross the back side of the radio cavity that created a hell of a whine when the engine was running, when you pulled the radio out about 4-6 inches the noise went away and no type of power filter or ground loop isolator would remove the noise. the factory radio would not give off the noise at the same level because its freq response was narrow in the high end. the cure for this was to remove the radio losen the dash structure and relocate the dash harness lower and away from the radio cavity. anyway, well there are some problems with the z1 but maybe your diag of the problem could go a little deeper by as mentioned by jl12each. take your video rca from the radio to the headrest and grab a pair of extra cables that you probably have laying around, plug a cable into the radio and temp plug it into your headrest monitors, test the video signal. is it any better, sometimes you have to try a couple different routes thats why you don't want to install the test cable untill you either find a better location or fully prove out that the signal just sucks. radiated signals really suck and take a little patience. good luck

ps , you still didn't say what the dvd player was that you used to test the system and didn't get the interference. see you may have proved that there my be a different source of interference instead of the radio.

both my hands

I have seen some units in the past where a video signal was too high in the voltage signal from the dvd player for the inputs of monitors from a different supplier. with this problem it was needed to open up the signal rca to get to the center lead and then inserted a 1 k ohm resistor to drop the signal voltage. this could be your issue. also the signal could be incompatible with your other manu' products. have you tried a video amp to see if this would help, you would most likely need the amp when you add the extra monitors that you plan on adding. you need to try other options ( possibilities) before saying that "pioneer sucks". now the dvd player you hooked up, was it a portable unit or was it a 12v unit made for automotive use and hardwired into the electrical. if it was a portable unit was it running on a battert pack or plugged into a powerpoint?

bump bump bump, damn headboard

anyone seen my country bump-kin

didn't think I'd bump into you here. you bump here often?

the powering up of the ant module is not actually powering up an ant amp. it is used to keep the high current voltage separated from the ant signal. it also adds some db gain to the signal. this gain is not the same as trying to amplify a weak static signal. the question is does the AM come in clean but seems to fade in and out or is it all static. on the mustang I would suggest ohming the center lead from end to end, and to check for a shorted center lead to ground ( both ends need to be disconnected for this test). ohm out the shield for a good ground to the shield. also in the mustang I believe there is a lead in cable behind the glove box and I remember seeing this losely connected, make sure it is seated good.