xsdbs

oohh, works got me so bumped out

bump it again Sam...

Just plug in the RCA's, wire up the matching power and turn-on wires and your done.

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there you go, what I said in an earlier post. use the adaptor for the bose system. I am sure that the d3 preamp section will sound much better than the factory hu as well as the d3 having a higher pre amp signal which will drive the amp better and you get the designed xover and equalization circuits that were designed for the room acoustics of the vehicle.

no hotwyrd I haven't tried it, just knowing how an amp reacts to a 2 ohm load when it is not designed for it. also knowing that most people like their favorite song played loud, air movement restrictions inside of dashes that could help keep the radio cool as well as outside temps. yes I am sure that the unit will play into a 2 ohm load but is it really a good idea? being in retail nothing is worse than when a customer comes back telling you that there is something wrong because the sound keeps shutting off, and that there must be a short somewhere and as an installer you know that the unit is going into protect mode and turning the volume down for a little while will help the unit cool down. people don't like that answer usually. I am not trying to be a d**khead or to sound like one so please accept my aplogies if I do. I try to not put myself in a position that may get a customer upset, (nothing worse than that). also the bose system has some design circuitry for vehicle specific applications and will sound different with out their electronics. kinda like taking separates and using caps instead of the designed xovers because someone thinks the xover points should be different than manu' s design.

So I guess ,can it be done- sure, is it suggested- not in my shop.

option 1: replace all speakers with aftermarket spkrs.

option 2: use the interface kit for the bose system.

may I ask why you don't want to use the bose amp? the amp is already set up with internal xover and eq points that are designed for the interior acoustics of your vehicle that you won't have with the d3.

ant amps are really a thing of the past. if you have weak signals I would look at all ant connection. also does your vehicle have glass mounted instead of fender mounted ants. if so then the vehicle usually has and ant module in it that needs to be powered up. I know this to be true of several gm vehicles. in this case you need to hook up the remote wire to turn the mod on.

I am sorry to say that if you run run it at 2 ohm the unit will not work properly for any length of time at any decent volume. the internal amp will get very hot and the unit will go into thermal protection. It may work ok at low volume on a cooler day but think about amps that are not 2 ohm stable, they get very hot which is not good for the electronics. May I ask why you want to go 2 ohm with a hu?

I have not seen one that i was not able to adapt to the pioneer or other mods. when they are factory installed the ant has a short pigtail for the coax and then an extension to the mod. you will need to make sure to order both pieces. most of the casings need some minor modifications in order to fit. usually nothing major.

no, I think I got it, ticket, zones, fines doubled etc. is that correct?

I don't think you will find the vss at any of the amp wires, (I could be wrong). I think you are looking for the ecm which behind the glovebox.

got ya, now I understand. I am curious why you don't use your video 1 or 2 inputs for the camera if you want it to work independently?

hhmmmm. did you say the red to accs. and the black to ground. this red that you are talking about, is that the red for your camera? if so you may want to look at the inst again. that wire normally goes to the b-up lights.

I see how that could be confusing without the rest of the story. this post was a reply to 03aviator in regaurds to a reply I made to the post "4 extra monitors". perhaps I should have just added another reply on that post but was not sure if it would get back to him as well as what I thought a separate post would. well now that I am rethinking I guess I could've pm'd him as well. oh well somewhat a lesson learned.

good morning 03....

your point is well taken and I know that the paragraph I brought in was a definition by someone, I thought it would be easier to understand how it can help a person when a service writer just calls out "voided warranty". If I posted the complete act people would get partially thru and say I don't get it. I have seen a person told that his starter was damaged because the tech saw a remote start fob on his keychain and the tech never looked at the car. the customer was charged for the services (diag)rendered then came back to the shop complaining that the install messed the starter up.we wanted to see the truck in a non starting stage and paid to have the truck towed to us. yes a defective relay could cause this but in this case after convincing the customer to leave the vehicle with us to look into we found that the solenoid power lead had corroded and broke.

as we know there are some install jobs that should not ever be done by someone who does not have the proper knowledge, we have all seen it before.

In the post that I was writing I was trying to get him to add a separate power supply for the extra devices fiquring that this would put less stress on the factory wiring. the relay coil only takes a low current to trigger and the the hi current need would be transferred frm the battery. I guess if he wanted to have it completely isolated he could use a toggle switch that is fused from the battery also. any way have a great day alright.

space reserved for "bump" only. fines are doubled in posted zones.

boyaaahh, bump huh

ok, i get it. I'm just trying to let you know what it takes sometimes with todays newer vehicles. anyway since you work at the dealer I would go back to your electrical tech ( especially if he's not against aftermarket stuff, I know some of them say "oh no not that crap"). he would be able to tell you if the ign switch is capable of handling the extra load. like I said before the switch needs to be able to handle the load. I think that whoever did your work probably took all the power wires and tied them together behind the radio, the problem is that the circuit is only capable of handling a certain load and you may be close to overloading it. Have you tried talking to whoever did your install about this problem or did you do the work yourself?

as for warranty DO NOT let anyone tell you your warranty is void due to your add ons. the only way it would void it is if a repair needs to be made and it CAN be proven that something you did caused the fault. most people get this pulled on them because they don't know about the Magnuson= moss act. I have posted it below so you can print out a copy and keep it in your receipt file. therefore IF you need to add this relay to you monitors its not a big deal or a difficult installation add on. I am sorry that I have not had any experiance with the honda, maybe someone else here can chime in on the ign switch being a hi current or low current switch. in fact you may be able to tell me, if you drop the knee bolster panel to access the switch wires, are the heavy gauge or tiny wires ( 18-22 ga). if they are heavy (12-16 ga) then just add a separate fused lead for the added devices. if small then a relay will be needed. you could test this need for current easily, get to where the extral monitors are tied into your system, disconnect your splice, take a jumper lead and connect it to these monitors/ video amp, temp hook up at the battery and test to see if this helps. it is just as important to have a good lo resistance ground as well. good luck

THE TRUTH:

Most vehicle owners are not aware they are protected by federal law: the Magnuson-Moss Warranty – Federal Trade Commission Improvement Act of 1975. Under the Magnuson-Moss Act, aftermarket equipment which improves performance does not void a vehicle manufacturer’s original warranty, unless the warranty clearly and conspicuously states that aftermarket equipment voids the warranty. Most states have warranty statutes, as well. Which provide further protections for vehicle owners.

In other words, that means a dealer can’t wiggle out of his legal warranty obligation merely because you install aftermarket equipment. To find out if any aftermarket equipment automatically voids your vehicle’s warranty, check the owner’s manual. It is likely the language you are looking for appears under a heading such as “What Is Not Covered†Although the language seems negative, remember your vehicle manufacturer is simply saying he does not cover the aftermarket products themselves. He is not saying that the products would void the vehicle warranty.

VEHICLE DEALERS OBLIGATIONS:

Suppose your modified vehicle needs repairs while still under warranty. Without analyzing the true cause of the problem, the dealer attempts to deny warranty coverage. He made his decision simply based on the fact that you’ve installed aftermarket equipment – a convenient way to dodge low-paying warranty work.

An example of how ridiculous this can get is the man who was denied warranty coverage by a dealer on his power door locks, because he had improved his exhaust system! Sounds nuts? It really happened – because that man did not know his rights and challenge the dealer’s decision.

Fact: A dealer must prove – not just say – that aftermarket equipment caused the need for repairs before he can deny warranty coverage on that basis.

YOUR RIGHTS:

Point out to the dealer the provision of the Magnuson-Moss Act- Require that he explain to you how the aftermarket equipment caused the problem. If he can’t – or his explanation sounds questionable – it is your legal right to demand he comply with the warranty.

Fact: If you are still being unfairly denied warranty coverage, there is recourse. The Federal Trade Commission, which administers the Magnuson-Moss Act, monitors compliance with warranty issues. Direct complaints to the FTC at (202) 326-3128. For "The Businesspersons Guide to Federal Warranty Law" and the full requirements of the Magnuson-Moss Act, visit the FTC's web site by clicking here.

I was just looking back @ your post, my mistake for not asking what is your vehicle. as far as where I would hook up the extra monitors, in the past when I would add extra devices I would add a separate fused supply line @ the ign switch. now this works great except on some of the newer vehicles that use can/lan electronics. this is because the ign switches are lo current and go into bcm's which energizes relays to transfer the higher current needed. in this case I would suggest adding a separate fused relay triggered by the ign switch and the main power supply coming in on term #87 from the battery. fuse both the trigger ( term 86) as well as the hicurrent supply (term 87). the trigger will only need a small fuse 2-5 amp and the hi current @ a rating that will supply enough current to the monitors and the signal booster, you will need to read the specs on those components. Good luck

have you checked to see what your voltage is @ the screens and do you have a low resistance at the grounds. could be getting a voltage drop when the bass hits. where is the power supply wires hooked up for the screens and the video booster. I have seen screens in the past that were not compatible with the hu and signal differences. what brand screens and booster did you add on?

do you know how to perform a parisitic load test with a meter? if so do a reading with the system complete, what is the reading ? if above 25-35 ma, ( you will need to let the vehicle set about 12-15 min till the bcm goes to sleep.) you will notice a hi reading at first , about 220 ma till going to sleep. then it will drop if not then the bcm is staying awake by means of the interface. unplug the interface, wait and read. this should lead you in a direction.

have you had a parasitic load test done on your vehicle? the current draw of the interface in very low ( milli amps). however it could be defective and keeping the bcm awake, causing a hi current drain. how long does it take for the battery to go dead and does the battery have a full charge. has the batt been tested for weak cells?

thanks again for the help

thank you for the help.

I have seen people use the term "bump" and not in regaurds to bumpn sounds. what does this term now mean. thanks in advance