offroaderf150

ohh i see....well technically all best buy will do is remove the product for you so you can send it back. yeah we get pretty decent discounts on product and it varies depending on the cost of the unit. some stuff is 50% off and some stuff we dont get anything off for a discount.

i doubt they would swap it out for you since it wasnt bought there...unless you know someone there thats kinda shady, because they could get fired for it. but who knows.....they could also get into big trouble for allowing the unit to leave bypassed as well. so maybe you might luck out.

i just assumed that he bought it there. last week bb offered free install on the f series.

i just thought the possibility of the radio being powered up before it was installed was there. i used a wii power supply to power up my d2 lol

he mentioned he bought it from best buy.

did you do any software hacks? that would cause it to reboot continuously like that.

if not, then just have them swap it out. im a best buy installer and they'll do it no problem.

thank you thank you thank you!!!!!!!

thanks for hosting it and thanks to rotun for providing it!!!!

so far, from all i have downloaded, the west one is the n5 disc and NOT the actual 80mt disc that is needed for units such as the d1 and d2 along with the n1-3

the first ring is the one that plays when my phone rings. i know some phones are able to send the ringtone through bluetooth.

i came across it once...ll look for it and ill post it up when i find it

EDIT: ok i found it. its in the data.zip file. you have to extract it in order to listen to it. after you extract data.zip, go into the audio folder and it is the first file called "!alert1"

i tried it....my d2 has the orig. 60 series discs and it did not work. i verified that the discs were burned correctly on my friend's d3 and they do work. i guess its not the right one for the d1 and d2

Can anyone confirm if the West files are the actual 80MT files, or is it the N5 bundled disk files? I didn't have time to double check over the weekend, but burnt another DVD with the same results of "insert appropriate disk" in my D1.

 

Just a word of warning to all you D1ers out there, if this is the N5 disk it WILL NOT work in your D1, but will update the D3. We need the official CNDV-80MT release to update.

 

I'll check these FTP Files against the west N5 files that were out a month ago later tonight and post some results. But from a glance over the weekend, they appeared to be the same file structure.

same with my d2. i downloaded the ftp files that were posted for the west disc and they did not work on my d2 but worked on my friend's d3. im still trying to find the actual cndv 80mt disc.

yeah its the same one as the f series

yeah i tried downloading that and running it, and i cant get it to work. sorry, i always try to research as much as possible before i ask for help.

i even downloaded a windows ce emulator, but it wont load the avic files.

well, with the tiny speakers in the rear, the idea of rear fill was probably taken into account. from what i remember, they were able to get quite a bit of bass out of those speakers. bass takes more power to make than highs, so the amp helps reproduce that. also, those rear speakers are behind the back seat if i remember correctly, so they would need to be pretty loud to be able to hear well.

there is an amp in there only for the rears. there has to be...there is no other reason for the rears to shut off when the antenna goes down. the fronts go directly to the radio.

the amp turn on lead for the rear speakers is tied into the power antenna activation wire.

only way to get around this is to run some wires.

you can either:

1--run new speaker wires from the deck to the rear speakers, then you have bypassed the factory amp, and you can switch the antenna lead back to auto antenna and all the speakers will work and your antenna will function how you want it to.

2--connect the blue/white wire where the blue wire is now and run a new wire to the power antenna relay. that connects the auto antenna wire from the z to the antenna relay and allowing it to function as you want it to and the speakers still work and you retain the use of the factory amp in the rear.

3--- look for the factory amp. ive seen a lot of toyotas with the factory amp in the dashboard. its a small silver one with a heat sink on one side. that has the speaker leads in it. you can bypass the back speakers by running new wires from the z to the output of the factory amp so that it runs directly to the back leads. or you can run a wire from the blue/white on the z to the amp turn on lead going into the amp to keep it powered on when the auto antenna lead shuts off. but dont forget to cut it so that it doesnt backfeed to the antenna.

hope this helps!

yep! that will work. that gives you the ability to tone down the signal so that you can match the output of the factory radio to the factory amp so the beeps and the bluetooth arent so loud.

sounds like thats the problem.

get an adjustable premium amp interface and that will fix your issue. just adjust it until your button beeps are a tolerable level as well as your phone calls.

ive run into this several times and you do have a factory amp for the door speakers as well.

are all your other button beeps loud as well? the loud beeps and volume would happen if you are running speaker leads directly into a factory amp instead of using a low level rca type of signal. the high output from the speaker lead connection would cause that.

so...what kind of car...year, make, model, and factory upgraded sounsystem??

the factory antennas will work in both vehicles. i hooked up that pioneer xm tuner on my 06 f150 and used the sirius antenna. its a single plug and you just remove the plastic connector on the end and just pressure fit it into the antenna port on the xm tuner.

if your gm one has 2 plugs, you can use one of them in order to use the antenna. i believe you need to use the yellow one. sometimes if i cant remember, i just plug one in, then the other until i gets signal. you will also need to remove the plastic connector in order to get it to plug into the xm tuner.

youll need a dash kit for that. this one....

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12 ... -5812.html

toss in a 1k resistor in between the d3 amp turn on wire and the turn on wires on the shaker plug. i had a d3 in my 07 stang with the shaker 500 and i connected it to the d3 sub output and it worked great!

all aftermarket power antennas have a 12+ constant power wire, a ground wire and a activation wire that you will hook up to the d3. thats all you need to do!

i used some best buy dynex brand dl dvds...i work there so its dirt cheap. it worked on my friends d3 as i dont have one anymore. it worked using power2 go burner program.

i just wanna add a big THANKS for posting this update!!!

everyone, be sure to read the entire post from the beginning! many questions that people are asking have already been answered!

nah mine will randomly fail. even if i had the ipod screen up when i shut off my car. also, itll just say the connection failed after listening to it for 10 min or so. i have the 90bt and the cable that came with it.

nice install!

those lightnings are soooooo sweet!!!!!!!

i used a 1k ohm resistor on my 07 stang. i also have the shaker 500 system with the 2 factory amps (1 for each door sub). i have the 90bt hooked up to them and the subs sounds a heck of a lot better with the 4v preouts as opposed to the 2v on the d3.

i have my loudness setting on low and the sub level on 0 . i also have a 4 channel amp for the door and rear deck speakers. no issues with the amps...yet anyways. but no distortion or clipping.