ducatiboy

Unfortunately that's exactly the error that you get when that second wire is not hooked up and not grounded. Those are the symptoms. You said you checked them. But I would really double check them.

I think I saw this in another thread but is it true if you install this update the 2 wire bypass still works? I haven't done it on mine. But if others are having joy then it's got to be something with the 2 wire bypass. If you are getting the parking brake error, that's grounded. But that second wire is either not grounded or the software is not looking for that wire to be grounded. Usually when we updated these with older updates which removed the old flash your headlights bypass and then went to the 2 wire ground bypass, pressing the recessed button on the front of the unit would kick this into working.

Not really. There are 2 brightness settings.

1. when the headlights are off

2. when the headlights are on.

When you turn the headlights on it will send a signal on the illumination wire to the Avic, it will see this and switch to the brightness setting 2. When you turn the lights off, the Avic sees this and goes to brightness setting 1. You can adjust the brightness in the Avic for each one (lights on or off) but it won't "track" from the dimmer of your vehicle.

Did that make sense?

Wow, well that sucks. If you unplugged a working Avic Z2 from those harnesses and then plugged this one in and you get all those NOK's either there is a massive software failure or hardware failure. Try doing a restore (highest level) reset, appendix A has reset info. I can't remember off hand what you need to do. But it won't hurt anything. Do a full reset and reboot and if it's still giving you all those NOK's then:

The possibilities are:

1. You plugged the harnesses in incorrectly

2. there is a problem with the "other end" of the harnesses (you have a problem with your vehicle and it's wiring)... not too likely.

3. hardware failure in the Avic Z2.

sorry you are having such back luck with your Avic's that sucks.

Not to add confusion to the discussion.....

Well it is possible that something like this could exist. But I have to admin I have never heard of somehting like this.

The bypass is not a magical "hardware" thing. The software in the unit is looking for 2 wires to be grounded and if it sees those wires grounded it will unlock itself. It's possible to make an update disk that unlocks itself without looking for any conditions. But in order to do that you would need the source code and compiler that Pioneer uses.

I highly doubt that a disk like that would be created by an outside hacker. Pioneer could make a disk like that but I have never heard of one.

It's possible that something like that exists, but more likely I agree with Garrett, I don't think your shop knows what they are talking about. My guess is they have an update CD from Pioneer which removes the flasher bypass and installs the 2 wire ground bypass and they ground the 2 wires.

sorbid,

What you mention is a classic descirption that you didn't wire up "wire #2" correctly. That is no longer grounded. If that wire is no longer grounded (check the connector end not the wire to ground end) it will do exactly what you describe. As for the reset to allow it to work, the Avic will let you bypass the unit with just the parking brake wire "for a while". After a while it will get annoyed with you and start locking you out while you are physically moving. And it will unlock itself while stopped but when you start moving it will lock itself again. When you press reset, it resets the "for a while" counter. When you reload software it resets the "for a while" counter. The only way to make sure it doesn't lock you out is to ground wire #2. That's what it sounds like the problem is.

I don't know about a resistor value, but a 5V regulator will work, but there is more wiring and a couple extra parts (with the caps).

No I understood. You can do the same thing with an Avic. Just hook the yellow wire permanently to 12V that doesn't shut off and put a toggle switch on the red wire to the same point. and it will do just what you describe.

But the avic pulls a lot of power. I had mine on for 7 hours while I was working outside (cleaning, washing, waxing) in a rather new Lincoln Aviator and it killed my battery in that time.

Yah, you can do what you describe, but for me the convenience of having it come on automatically when I start the car does not outweigh the 30 seconds of no music for the occasional time I'm just out of the car for a minute.

With the update discs, the update could take HOURS, with gas prices the way they are do you want to run your vehicle for hours just to update your headunit?

You could just turn the key to the on position and plug your battery on to a battery charger and plug the charger into the AC outlet.

But yes it takes a while. I could have swore 45 minutes, but YMMV....

will it undo the bypass for the moniter while driving ?

Depends on the bypass. If you have one of the circuits I used to sell (flasher circuit) then yes, it will disable that. If your bypass is that you grounded 2 wires, then no.

The update will make the unit bypassable by a 2 wire ground method. If that's how you bypassed your current unit, then you are fine. If you have a very old Z1 with a "headlight flasher circuit" then you will need to update your bypass. But the Z3 is bypassable.

The red wire from the unit is switched power which turns on and off with the ignition. The yellow should be connection to constant power which does not ever get shut off. The yellow wire powers your backup battery and supplies all the current for the unit when it's powered up. The red wire turning on and off is just a signal to "boot up the unit".

If the yellow wire and red wire are hooked to the same wire which turns on and off with the key, that will cause this problem you describe.

When on that unit pulls some major current. Enough to run down a cars battery overnight if you left it on.

And what you are going through is basically doing the same exact thing the unit does anyway.

The yellow wire which has power all the time is where the unit pulls ALL it's power from. The red wire turning on and off is the sensor to tell the unit to turn on and off.

The unit has no on and off switch cause it's using the car's ignition automatically.

If you took the red wire and put a toggle switch between the red wire on the radio and the constant power (yellow) you basically made a power switch.

The problem is if you ever left your radio on overnight you would come out to a dead battery.

so what are you looking for a delay so it takes a minute to shut off? Or something manual you can control?

It's an odd idea. And probably more trouble than it's worth. But you can do all sorts of delays or whatever. I measured the current draw of the red wire about 2 years ago, 100mA seems to stick in my mind. 2A on the yellow.

Yes the boot up is not instant but I don't think it's worth the trouble of what you are describing.

^^ Hey Ducati Boy! Long time no See! Good to see you around!

Thanks. I have always been "around". Just haven't had the time or energy to post. But I have been answering PM's on a trimly basis and I keep reading. But you are right, I'm no where near as active as I used to be. New Job and all.

Yes PAC makes the SWI-PS which I used in my car (Lincoln Aviator). I don't know if the application chart works with a Toyota 4 runner, but you can look on PAC's web site.

http://www.pac-audio.com/

Why am I making sure I don't have a powered antenna? Sorry, I didn't catch that from your post.

Sometimes when car companies use a short antenna, they will use active electronics to boost the antenna's reception.

Most radios have a legacy wire that will energize when you use the radio. This is normally used in older cars with antennas that retract and extend when the radio is on. So you turn on the radio and the antenna raises up out of the fender (or wherever). New cars with stubby antenna with active electronics use the power coming out of the radio which normally would be used to extend the antenna to power on the active electronics. These active electronics compensate for not having a huge whip antenna. And some cars, if that's not powered, you will get no radio reception.

It's a common problem if you have active electronics for your antenna.

It's a moot point now that you have FM working. Glad you got it hooked up. But in case someone else reads this.

Did you find a bypass for it yet?

Before everyone yells at you to search

http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html#newbypass

I know I say Z1 but that will bypass a Z3.

Also make sure you don't have a powered antenna. Lots of cars these days have powered antennas, not necessarily power to raise and lower the antenna, but an FM antenna needs to be huge (2.5 - 3 feet long, like the old "whip" antennas". When car companies use shorter ones, sometimes they use active electronics to enhance their functionality which require power. So they can still get decent AM/FM reception yet have a short/small sporty antenna.

I don't know about the specifics of your car, but it's a possibility if you don't have a 3 foot whip sticking up out of the fender.

Yes there can be a car's wiring harness with 2 wires ILLUMINATION and DIMMER. I'm sure someone can find a car where this wiring and behavior does not work, but from what I have seen.

Illumination: is 0 Volts when the lights are off and 12 Volts when the lights are on.

Dimmer: is a variable voltage, like the adjustment you have on your dash lights. (many subtle levels of brightness)

The Avic only had 2 settings, bright and lights are on dim. There is no automatic adjustment for how dim it goes. You can set the brightness when the lights are off and the brightness when the lights are on, but it won't respond to how dim you make the lights in the dash (most cars have this adjustment). The dimmer wire will usually use pulse width modulation (older cars use variable resistors).

The nice thing is that the Avic doesn't really care which one you hook to. It will take an ILLUMINATION signal (just an on or off) which is how you should do it cause that's the way it operates. If you happened to hook it to a DIMMER signal, it will sense the "partial" voltage and just dim to it's "lights on dim" setting.

I believe you need to delete them all with a level 3 reset (along with other things being reset). You can't just delete them one at a time.

Ok guys, stop the bickering. Don't make me lock this. Play nice.

702 Motoring, when you meet the classified rules please post any advertisements in there. Otherwise anything you want to offer for free or help can go in these sections.

Thanks,

The Management.

Jailbreak, pwning, loading all the app store apps for free, just the general messing. The old first gen iphone was cooler with the installer, the new app store stuff is pretty cool.

It might be cool, I just talked work into getting me one. Didn't take long till I started "messing" with it.

Stickied by request.

PS, the middle post was removed to push up the instructions closer to the top.

The bypass, when done correctly won't "slow anything down" or move your position permanently.

First fix the problem, if the bypass still isn't working, check the parking brake wire go through the menu to get to the hardware connection screen and look at the parking brake, is it on all the time? If so it's wire #2 in your bypass instructions. Most likely you didn't do the wire #2 correctly in connector 2.

Once you do that go edit your location and you should be good to go.

Yes, if you system is on AV no matter how good the burn of the update cd is (if you did it right), the system won't update itself unless you hit the map button. You have to be out of AV and in to the Nav part for the update to start.

ground is ground

While this is correct, another way to say this is....

Everything that is supposed to be "grounded" can all be connected to the exact same black wire coming out of the power connector and connected to the (most likely black) ground wire coming out of your car's dash and it all ends up connecting to the negative terminal of the battery. You can connect them all together to the same wire if you want, they don't have to be grounded seperately.