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About ducatiboy

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    Circuit Guru

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  • Location
    Northern NJ
  • Interests
    Guns, Motorcycles, Computers, Cars, Trucks, Electronics
  1. AVIC Z1 Upgrade/Bypass

    Unfortunately that's exactly the error that you get when that second wire is not hooked up and not grounded. Those are the symptoms. You said you checked them. But I would really double check them. I think I saw this in another thread but is it true if you install this update the 2 wire bypass still works? I haven't done it on mine. But if others are having joy then it's got to be something with the 2 wire bypass. If you are getting the parking brake error, that's grounded. But that second wire is either not grounded or the software is not looking for that wire to be grounded. Usually when we updated these with older updates which removed the old flash your headlights bypass and then went to the 2 wire ground bypass, pressing the recessed button on the front of the unit would kick this into working.
  2. Illumination wire

    Not really. There are 2 brightness settings. 1. when the headlights are off 2. when the headlights are on. When you turn the headlights on it will send a signal on the illumination wire to the Avic, it will see this and switch to the brightness setting 2. When you turn the lights off, the Avic sees this and goes to brightness setting 1. You can adjust the brightness in the Avic for each one (lights on or off) but it won't "track" from the dimmer of your vehicle. Did that make sense?
  3. Connection issues... Please Help!!!

    Wow, well that sucks. If you unplugged a working Avic Z2 from those harnesses and then plugged this one in and you get all those NOK's either there is a massive software failure or hardware failure. Try doing a restore (highest level) reset, appendix A has reset info. I can't remember off hand what you need to do. But it won't hurt anything. Do a full reset and reboot and if it's still giving you all those NOK's then: The possibilities are: 1. You plugged the harnesses in incorrectly 2. there is a problem with the "other end" of the harnesses (you have a problem with your vehicle and it's wiring)... not too likely. 3. hardware failure in the Avic Z2. sorry you are having such back luck with your Avic's that sucks.
  4. Avic Z3 bypass.... Rewiring or CD?

    Not to add confusion to the discussion..... Well it is possible that something like this could exist. But I have to admin I have never heard of somehting like this. The bypass is not a magical "hardware" thing. The software in the unit is looking for 2 wires to be grounded and if it sees those wires grounded it will unlock itself. It's possible to make an update disk that unlocks itself without looking for any conditions. But in order to do that you would need the source code and compiler that Pioneer uses. I highly doubt that a disk like that would be created by an outside hacker. Pioneer could make a disk like that but I have never heard of one. It's possible that something like that exists, but more likely I agree with Garrett, I don't think your shop knows what they are talking about. My guess is they have an update CD from Pioneer which removes the flasher bypass and installs the 2 wire ground bypass and they ground the 2 wires.
  5. sorbid, What you mention is a classic descirption that you didn't wire up "wire #2" correctly. That is no longer grounded. If that wire is no longer grounded (check the connector end not the wire to ground end) it will do exactly what you describe. As for the reset to allow it to work, the Avic will let you bypass the unit with just the parking brake wire "for a while". After a while it will get annoyed with you and start locking you out while you are physically moving. And it will unlock itself while stopped but when you start moving it will lock itself again. When you press reset, it resets the "for a while" counter. When you reload software it resets the "for a while" counter. The only way to make sure it doesn't lock you out is to ground wire #2. That's what it sounds like the problem is.
  6. I don't know about a resistor value, but a 5V regulator will work, but there is more wiring and a couple extra parts (with the caps).
  7. The Mini start up bypass

    No I understood. You can do the same thing with an Avic. Just hook the yellow wire permanently to 12V that doesn't shut off and put a toggle switch on the red wire to the same point. and it will do just what you describe. But the avic pulls a lot of power. I had mine on for 7 hours while I was working outside (cleaning, washing, waxing) in a rather new Lincoln Aviator and it killed my battery in that time. Yah, you can do what you describe, but for me the convenience of having it come on automatically when I start the car does not outweigh the 30 seconds of no music for the occasional time I'm just out of the car for a minute.
  8. upgrade discs

    You could just turn the key to the on position and plug your battery on to a battery charger and plug the charger into the AC outlet. But yes it takes a while. I could have swore 45 minutes, but YMMV....
  9. upgrade discs

    Depends on the bypass. If you have one of the circuits I used to sell (flasher circuit) then yes, it will disable that. If your bypass is that you grounded 2 wires, then no. The update will make the unit bypassable by a 2 wire ground method. If that's how you bypassed your current unit, then you are fine. If you have a very old Z1 with a "headlight flasher circuit" then you will need to update your bypass. But the Z3 is bypassable.
  10. z2's memory not working

    The red wire from the unit is switched power which turns on and off with the ignition. The yellow should be connection to constant power which does not ever get shut off. The yellow wire powers your backup battery and supplies all the current for the unit when it's powered up. The red wire turning on and off is just a signal to "boot up the unit". If the yellow wire and red wire are hooked to the same wire which turns on and off with the key, that will cause this problem you describe.
  11. The Mini start up bypass

    When on that unit pulls some major current. Enough to run down a cars battery overnight if you left it on. And what you are going through is basically doing the same exact thing the unit does anyway. The yellow wire which has power all the time is where the unit pulls ALL it's power from. The red wire turning on and off is the sensor to tell the unit to turn on and off. The unit has no on and off switch cause it's using the car's ignition automatically. If you took the red wire and put a toggle switch between the red wire on the radio and the constant power (yellow) you basically made a power switch. The problem is if you ever left your radio on overnight you would come out to a dead battery. so what are you looking for a delay so it takes a minute to shut off? Or something manual you can control? It's an odd idea. And probably more trouble than it's worth. But you can do all sorts of delays or whatever. I measured the current draw of the red wire about 2 years ago, 100mA seems to stick in my mind. 2A on the yellow. Yes the boot up is not instant but I don't think it's worth the trouble of what you are describing.
  12. Bypassing the New AVIC-Z3

    Thanks. I have always been "around". Just haven't had the time or energy to post. But I have been answering PM's on a trimly basis and I keep reading. But you are right, I'm no where near as active as I used to be. New Job and all.
  13. 2008 4runner urban runner and Avic Z3

    Yes PAC makes the SWI-PS which I used in my car (Lincoln Aviator). I don't know if the application chart works with a Toyota 4 runner, but you can look on PAC's web site. http://www.pac-audio.com/
  14. AM tuner doesn't work at all...help?

    Sometimes when car companies use a short antenna, they will use active electronics to boost the antenna's reception. Most radios have a legacy wire that will energize when you use the radio. This is normally used in older cars with antennas that retract and extend when the radio is on. So you turn on the radio and the antenna raises up out of the fender (or wherever). New cars with stubby antenna with active electronics use the power coming out of the radio which normally would be used to extend the antenna to power on the active electronics. These active electronics compensate for not having a huge whip antenna. And some cars, if that's not powered, you will get no radio reception. It's a common problem if you have active electronics for your antenna. It's a moot point now that you have FM working. Glad you got it hooked up. But in case someone else reads this.
  15. Bypassing the New AVIC-Z3

    Before everyone yells at you to search http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html#newbypass I know I say Z1 but that will bypass a Z3.