Kel Varnsen Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hi guys. I've searching until I was blue in the face, but still have questions. I am retarded with this stuff, so if you answer, imagine you are talking to a kid hahah To let you know what I am trying to accomplish - I have a non-Bose 350Z, I want to install PAC SWIPS and no rear view camera. 1) on the PAC SWIPS - how do I connect the resistors to the white wire? Solder them all together? 1a) It says: Red wire: Connect the INTERFACE's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire kit." ....can you explain this in Layman's terms? haha 2) The solid blue "Antenna Control" from the AVIC harness to the solid blue Nissan harness...should I just cut the little metal thing at the end of the Antenna Control and solder them together? 3) I still have a few wires left over after soldering most of them together. I have a solid black and orange w/ black stripe left on one pig tail. And on the other pig tail I have a black w/ white and a blue w/ white. Where do these go? 4) Still have a pink wire on the AVIC harness called "Car Speed Signal Input"...I've seen this discussed, but I keep getting turned around in circles. Does this hook up to the VSS? 5) Other than the Yellow w/ black Mute wire that I have gounded, do I need any of the other Audio inputs if I don't have an amp or anything like that? Thanks again everyone. This site has been helpful with everything else. And yes, I should've just paid someone to install it for me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted April 5, 2008 Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 Hi guys. I've searching until I was blue in the face, but still have questions. I am retarded with this stuff, so if you answer, imagine you are talking to a kid hahah To let you know what I am trying to accomplish - I have a non-Bose 350Z, I want to install PAC SWIPS and no rear view camera. 1) on the PAC SWIPS - how do I connect the resistors to the white wire? Solder them all together? One end solder to the white wire, the other end solder to the wire in the vehicle. 1a) It says: Red wire: Connect the INTERFACE's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire kit." The red wire with the black fuse holder on the harness, tie that to the red wire from the avic harness. 2) The solid blue "Antenna Control" from the AVIC harness to the solid blue Nissan harness...should I just cut the little metal thing at the end of the Antenna Control and solder them together? Cut it off and solder together 3) I still have a few wires left over after soldering most of them together. I have a solid black and orange w/ black stripe left on one pig tail. And on the other pig tail I have a black w/ white and a blue w/ white. Where do these go? All three get taped up, don't need them. 4) Still have a pink wire on the AVIC harness called "Car Speed Signal Input"...I've seen this discussed, but I keep getting turned around in circles. Does this hook up to the VSS? Yes that pink wire is the one that goes to the vss wire in the car. 5) Other than the Yellow w/ black Mute wire that I have gounded, do I need any of the other Audio inputs if I don't have an amp or anything like that? Nope. Just so you know though. The black ground wire, the mute wire, and the parking brake wire should be gorunded to steel behind the radio, and NOT the wire harness you bought. Thanks again everyone. This site has been helpful with everything else. And yes, I should've just paid someone to install it for me Possibly, we'll see how you make out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 5, 2008 3) I still have a few wires left over after soldering most of them together. I have a solid black and orange w/ black stripe left on one pig tail. And on the other pig tail I have a black w/ white and a blue w/ white. Where do these go? All three get taped up, don't need them. Did you mean all 4 get taped up? Or do I need one of those remaining 4? Thanks a MILLION for responding so quickly Batman! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted April 6, 2008 Report Share Posted April 6, 2008 The solid black coming from the avic harness goes to ground. The solid black from the nissan harness just tape up, along with the other 3. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 So in regards to the PAC SWIPS... Would it be easier if I just cut the little brown harness (coming FROM the car) off and then solder the resistors directly to the wire? It doesn't seem like I should solder the resistor to the plastic harness. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 You can do that, just make sure to cut a couple inches from the harness so you can reconnct the harness should you get rid of the car. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 Is that what people do? It seems a little extreme to me. Although, I really don't see a "plan B" either. Thank you for your help Bat, it has been invaluable! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
RidinaZ Posted April 8, 2008 Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread. ... light=avic This is a great thread to help you w/ 350z install Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2008 http://www.my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=278145&highlight=avic This is a great thread to help you w/ 350z install Oh yea, I've used that religiously. I've printed most of it out, including the original wiki on z-tech. Thanks for the heads up, but I didn't really see any of the posts specifically address this issue. Most all of them say - just connect it. Since I need things explained to me as a 5th grader, that didn't really cut it Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 9, 2008 New idea from the Z forums (slightly modified idea of clark): Attach a small (maybe 2'') wire to one end of the resistor. Attach the open end of the resistor to the wire from the SWIPS harness. Then attach the "new" wire to the correct location behind the brown harness coming from the Z. Instead of stripping that wire and soldering in my car, I'm just going to use a wire tap (from Radio Shack) and snap the 2 together. Does that make sense? Or am I missing something here haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cntrylvr79 Posted April 11, 2008 Report Share Posted April 11, 2008 New idea from the Z forums (slightly modified idea of clark): Attach a small (maybe 2'') wire to one end of the resistor. Attach the open end of the resistor to the wire from the SWIPS harness. Then attach the "new" wire to the correct location behind the brown harness coming from the Z. Instead of stripping that wire and soldering in my car, I'm just going to use a wire tap (from Radio Shack) and snap the 2 together. Does that make sense? Or am I missing something here haha That works too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 12, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2008 Good news and bad news: Good news - e-brake bypass works Bad news - can't get the SWIPS to work. I can't get it to recognize the different volume and seek buttons from my steering wheel. I am here http://www.pac-audio.com/swixprogramming/showstepbystep.asp?RadioGroupPioneer=1&InterfaceChecked=3&mmSearch=Nissan&Submit2=Search+Vehicles&ID=482 and on step 7. Part 1, it flashes 3 times, like it told me to. Between Part 4 and 5, the LED should come back on...but it doesn't. I've checked all of the connects and they all seem ok. Any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 14, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2008 Absolutely, positively cannot figure it out. I tried using a different size wire connector (smaller) to tap the wires and it still doesn't work. I have quadruple checked my connections and it won't recognize the steering wheel controls, no matter which button I press. I checked the resistors and the ohms flowing through are reading fine, and tapped in to the correct wires. The black wire is grounded. The red wire is tapped in to the ACC red wire coming from the AVIC harness. I've read that the actual SWI-PS units aren't the most reliable? That is literally the last thing I can think of. Any ideas at all??? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jimmy303 Posted April 15, 2008 Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 Did you program the SWI-PS version before trying to program it? The INTERFACE has to be programmed for version # 3. 1. Press and hold the 'Mode' button on the INTERFACE while turning on the vehicle to the accessory position. The LED will turn on. 2. Release the 'Mode' button and the LED will turn off. 3. Press the 'Mode' button 3 times. Each time you press and release the 'Mode' button, the LED will turn on and off. Once you press the "Mode" button 3 times, wait for 3 seconds. The LED will flash 3 times indicating it is programmed for version 3. If it flashes the wrong version number, you will have to start all over at step 1 above in this section. Turn the key off. 4. Once you have programmed the correct version number, you will not have to do these steps again. If you need to reprogram the SWC, you can go directly to the next section. 1. Turn the key to the accessory position (you do not need to hold the 'Mode' button at this time). The LED will flash 3 times. This indicates it is programmed for version 3. 2. Press the 'Mode' button until the LED turns on, then release the button (This will erase all previous learned SWC functions). The INTERFACE is now ready to learn a command from the steering wheel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kel Varnsen Posted April 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2008 Sure did. I turn the key to the accessory position and it blinks 3 times. Then hold press the mode button until the LED turns on. Then press volume up....it should turn off to recognize that that particular button was programmed, then turn back on again. Problem is, it never turns back on again. It waits 7 seconds or whatever the delay is and then blinks 3 slow and 3 quick times to show that it is finished programming. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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