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Please Step by Step instructions software Mod!


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i have been searching all morning for two hours. I had a shop install my unit right before i went on a 2 hour road trip. Low and behold he must have not installed the parking break wire correctly. I wasnt able t do anything. No music no navigation nothing it was horrible. Can someone please post up a step by step how to for the software mod. I just bought a 1 gig sd card. From how to load it up from the computer onto the sd card to how to load it up on the pioneer unit. Will even paypal money to someone that helps me if i have to.

 

Thanks.

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a) search as this file was posted yesterday or just look for noob question speed hack it is 6 threads down from yours and a 8 page software bypass thread which is 7 threads down from yours

B) if you have no music the shop did the install bad / wrong. put the car in park and you should have all features. if that is the case read a). if not go back to the shop

 

on a final note if you want to pay me rather then using the search feature and reading let me know.

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YOU JUST GOT RIPPED OFF. MUSIC SHOULD STILL WORK, BYPASS OR NOT.

 

ALSO DONT DO THE SOFTWARE BYPASS IF YOU PLAN ON USING IT RIGHT AWAY. CAUSE YOU HAVE TO DOWNLOAD SOFTWARE AND UPLOAD IT TO YOUR AVIC PLAYER.

 

DO THE HARDWARE BYPASS, YOU HAVE TO SWITCH THE MUTE PIN (USING A FLAT HEAD SCREW DRIVER) AND GROUND THE PARKING BREAK AND THE MUTE WIRE.

 

IT SHOULD TAKE YOU ONLY 3 MINS TO DO THAT SINCE YOUR SOLDERING ONLY 1 EXTRA WIRES (from software mod) BUT SINCE THE UNIT IS INSTALLED INTO YOUR CAR ALREADY, IT WILL NOW TAKE YOU 5 HOURS TO DO.

 

details are in my sig. good luck

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RULE #1 ABOUT SOFTWARE BYPASSING IS... DONT DO IT, DO THE HARDWARE BYPASS INSTEAD.

 

RULE #2 ABOUT THE SOFTWARE BYPASS... FREAKING DONT DO IT, JUST DO THE DANG HARDWARE BYPASS INSTEAD

 

RULE #3 HOW TO FIX YOUR SOFTWARE BYPASS.. LOOK AT RULES #1 & #2.

 

IF you do decide to the the software bypass... you might has well have a hammer ready too. So you can smash that POS for not playing Power Rangers while your driving.

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I spent a lot of time trying to figure this out too. The instructions are scattered across the forums, here is what I found. It is mostly just a cut+past from another thread (http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php? ... &start=210), but here it is anyway.

 

 

 

avicf700bt wrote:

*THESE DIRECTIONS ARE COMPLETE YOU WON'T GET LOST UNLESS YOU'RE A LOST CAUSE Wink

 

*Your parking brake wire (light green) has to be grounded. You can ground it to the black wire coming off the black power harness that connects to your stock radio ground connection, the cigarette lighter black ground, the vehicle chassis, etc.

 

*I updated my Avic to 2.0 firmware, its up to you if you want to do this because all you're trying to do is replace the "data.zip" file. Or if you don't want to upgrade you can follow steps 1-4,6 to access your Avic and copy/paste the original file from your Avic to SD card, open it up on your computer, edit it as mentioned below, put it back on your SD card, then follow steps 7-15. On how to Upgrade your firmware search avic411 or go to:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/PUSA/ ... e+Download

 

1. Make sure you are a registered member of avic411 or else you won't be able to see the files you need to download.

 

2. Download the Testmode.zip file folder from:

 

http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic. ... sc&start=0

 

3. Use Winrar (people have reported problems with Winzip) and open up Testmode.zip

 

4. Extract BOTH Testmode and MiTACAP files to your desktop by highlighting the folders and clicking the "Extract To" tab on Winrar and selecting "Desktop".

 

5. Get a hold of the data.zip file, you will need to edit it THROUGH Winrar. If you upgrade to the 2.0 Avic Firmware you can find the data.zip file in the firmware folder you download. You can download the firmware off Avic 411 or go to pioneerelectronics.com. Once you have the firmware downloaded open it up with Winrar. Click on F-Series Firmware Update -> LPUE080 -> APL2 -> iGo -> RIGHT CLICK data.zip and select "View File" -> Click project_config -> Click pioneer.ini (opens up in notepad)

 

Next, scroll down till you see:

[pioneer]

parking_break_speed=16.0

hide_logos=1

 

 

Change the "16.0" -> 128.0 , then click "file" "save". You will be prompted File "pioneer.ini" was modified click YES. Also click YES to "data.zip" being modified. Now extract "data.zip" in Winrar to your Desktop by highlighting the folder and clicking the "Extract To" tab on Winrar and selecting "Desktop". You should find it inside the "F-Series Firmware Update" folder by clicking through it.

 

 

6. Copy and paste the three files that should now be on your desktop (Testmode/MiTACAP/data.zip) to your SD card.

 

7. Insert the SD card into your unit with your vehicle powered off.

 

8. Turn your key to the vehicle ACC on position and your Avic should boot up in WinCE mode.

 

9. X out of whatever screen pops up till you get to the desktop.

 

10. Triple click to get into "My Device" is what i believe its called the first icon at the top of the desktop on the Avic.

 

11. Go into your SD card, highlight the "data.zip" file, click "edit" "copy".

 

12. Click back, now go into the main Avic drive in "My Device", i think its called flash something...i'm not sure the exact name but you can't miss it.

 

13. Similar to how you navigated through the firmware to find "data.zip" to change it, click to get to it, LPUE080 -> APL2 -> iGo

 

14. You should find the original "data.zip" that's on your Avic right now in there.

 

15. Now click "edit" "paste" and click "Yes to all" to replace the original data.zip with the one that you put on your SD card.

 

16. Reboot your Avic and you should be good to go.

 

 

 

Also I had a bit of trouble with the buttons lining up, in the Windows folder there is a calibration utility. Once I ran this you could click all the little buttons easily. Having a stylus helps, but I ended up using a pencap.

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  • 3 months later...

One thing to mention. The parking break speed in "parking_break_speed=16.0" is in Kilometers per hour. If you set it to 128, the functions that the bypass enables will be blacked out at 80 mph. I changed mine to 256 as while I don't often drive over 80 mph, I want the full functionality if I do. Also, at least on the F500, I thoroughly disagree with those who claim you just need to ground the parking break wire. Unless you change the "parking_break_speed=16.0" speed to a greater value, you might as well not even bother grounding the parking break wire as those functions that the bypass enables won't be available over 10 mph.

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RULE #1 ABOUT SOFTWARE BYPASSING IS... DONT DO IT, DO THE HARDWARE BYPASS INSTEAD.

 

RULE #2 ABOUT THE SOFTWARE BYPASS... FREAKING DONT DO IT, JUST DO THE DANG HARDWARE BYPASS INSTEAD

 

RULE #3 HOW TO FIX YOUR SOFTWARE BYPASS.. LOOK AT RULES #1 & #2.

 

IF you do decide to the the software bypass... you might has well have a hammer ready too. So you can smash that POS for not playing Power Rangers while your driving.

 

The statement that you should just do the hardware bypass and not the softweare bypass is just so wrong! At least on the F500, if you just ground the parking break wire, unless you change the "parking_break_speed=16.0" speed to a greater value, you might as well not even bother grounding the parking break wire as those functions that the hardware bypass enables won't be available over 10 mph. One other thing to mention. The parking break speed in "parking_break_speed=16.0" is in Kilometers per hour. If you set it to 128, the functions that the bypass enables will be blacked out at 80 mph. I changed mine to 256 as while I don't often drive over 80 mph, I want the full functionality if I do.

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Either bypass method works fine. Even if you have the hardware method done, it doesn't hurt anything having the software method done as well, as anyone using my mod can tell you. At any rate, the Parking Brake wire MUST be grounded for either method to work. DON'T ground the Mute wire if you haven't moved it to the bypass location in the harness. Doing so will render the unit silent.

 

It boggles my mind how many times this has been posted and all the sticky pictorial threads devoted to it, yet people still don't get it. READ people!

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Either bypass method works fine. Even if you have the hardware method done, it doesn't hurt anything having the software method done as well, as anyone using my mod can tell you. At any rate, the Parking Brake wire MUST be grounded for either method to work. DON'T ground the Mute wire if you haven't moved it to the bypass location in the harness. Doing so will render the unit silent.

 

It boggles my mind how many times this has been posted and all the sticky pictorial threads devoted to it, yet people still don't get it. READ people!

 

I disagree, you must do both. If you don't do the software bypass, you won't be able to go over 10 mph and still have all the functionality. I know this to be a fact as the parking brake on my F500 was grounded and until I increased the parking_break_speed past 16, which is the default, the affect of grounding the parking break wire only was negated after going over 10 mph or 16 kph. If you don't ground the parking break wire (the "mute" wire is not an issue on the F500), then no matter what speed you go, you won't get all the functionality without the parking brake being on. Do both and set the parking_break_speed to "256" and you won't be bothered by this moronically stupid "safety" feature of the F series.

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Just grounding the Parking brake wire is NOT the hardware bypass, although it must be grounded as part of it. The 'Mute" wire is NEVER grounded unless it is moved to a new location first!

Grounding the P.Brake and doing the software bypass works fine without the chance of bent pins or grounding the wrong pin. My unit has had both SW and HW bypasses since day one with no ill effects.

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