Issues with both F90BT and X920BT

[Dosmac]

UPDATED: Main issue figured out, now just a question of THE RED WIRE!

 

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I posted this in the X920BT forums but nothing yet! Hope it's not against the rules to post here as well, but it pertains to both of my stereos/problems. Sorry mods if it's not allowed. (New to these forums and just really looking for help with a problem plaguing me for a month now :s)

 

In my '05 Pontiac G6 I had a F90BT previously and replaced it for a X920BT because I thought my F90 had died. Unfortunately when I installed the X920BT, after hitting "OK" twice to confirm Language and Voice language(I think?) the deck instantly turned off after hitting OK on the second prompt. Hitting "OK" caused sound to be played through my speakers throughout the car perfectly fine.

 

The reason I replaced my old deck is that my F90 had one day decided to not turn on. Turned the car off at a bank, came back outside and the deck was totally dead. A few hours later after re-starting my car it booted fine. This happened for a few weeks of it randomly dying until now when not a single pioneer deck will work. If I attach my old stereo to my car (Stock Monsoon) it turns on just fine.

 

Any ideas on what's going on? I performed the "Bypass" on the X920 (After it had died after hitting "OK" twice, yet still nothing) as my F90 was bypassed as well and ran just fine for a year and 9months.

 

The only thing I noticed that was different about the F90 to the X920 was the blue remote wire was coming from the deck out of the power harness now instead of the A/V cable area. Is there something I possibly overlooked on install with wiring and my old deck was really bad?? Kind of confused here!

 

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks

[VBLUE42]

Did you install the 920 with the harnesses that came with that unit or did you use the harnesses that came with the F90?

[Dosmac]

I used the F90 harness for the power, and the X920BT's A/V and removed the old F90's A/V wire as the plugs were changed. The plug for the power was the same. Why would the deck power up for long enough to hit "OK" twice though? and only ONCE. Weird.

[1loudls]

as posted in the other thread:

 

if you used the propper wire harness for that vehicle (one with a can-bus module)they have a high probility of going bad (or not working right from the start) it may be having a problem receiving the on and off commands from the car and that could be why you are having a problem with it staying or turning on.

 

what i like to do in this situation is to place a diode inline with the red ACC wire between the harness module and the radio, then run a wire from the fuse box that turns on and off with the key and use another diode and tap it into the other ACC wire from the harnes, the line on the diode neet to point toward the radio and the two wires should connect to each other just on the radio side of the two diodes.

 

this will make sure that when the key is on, the avic is receiving the turn on signal even if the harnes module is having problems, it will also use the module to keep all the chimes and the radios RAP feature, this is of course, only if the module is the problem and not something due to a loose connection.

[Dosmac]

Went outside again and got frostbite nearly

Lots and lots of wires!

 

Tested the wires for what voltages were present at what states of the ignition.

 

The yellow leads read 14v always (Checks out to specs, I do believe)

however, the red leads read at 1.20V and drops slightly at a constant rate.

 

I went and tried your suggestion of tapping into my fuse box and ran 18ga speaker wire to the cap of joint wires just before my radio leading to it. The deck powered on as soon as I turned the car on and turned off perfectly when the door was open after key was turned off.

 

Would this 1.20V reading from the red wire be indicating a ground problem/short circuit somewhere? Everything operates normally with the wire spliced in from the fuse box. I'm just worried that bypass method would cause some long-term problems? I tested without diodes and everything worked smoothly, but I'm not sure if they're completely necessary to be isolating circuits?

 

UPDATE: Been playing around with the stereo all night, and all works great except for the bypass (Radio states the parking brake wire is wired wrong when the car moves), but that's not important right now. The driver information panel shows no text or corrupted text at random changing when the key is turned OFF and back on to ACC or all the way to ON. I also noticed at one point my sound sounded like it got weaker in one channel? Hard to explain, but when I accidentally bumped the left side of my console where a few harnesses are the sound kicked back up to full.

My radar (K40) system has been on and off all night, but the system itself has constant power to it, so i'm guessing it's the COM wire going to somewhere in my car... Wish I knew how this was wired to begin with. I had a audio shop do the wiring and other stereo install for me. Looks like I'm going to have to take the car into a garage to have them trouble shoot the electrical issues. Was hoping I would be able to give them a heads-up on where to look. Thanks for all the help thus far! Stereo in itself right now is working and that's enough for me for the time being.

[1loudls]

Would this 1.20V reading from the red wire be indicating a ground problem/short circuit somewhere?

this is a symptom of the problem, the radio need to have 12v on this wire (or very close to it) to turn on, a voltage reading of 1 volt would indicate that there is either a blown fuse (or partially blow fuse) allowing some but not all voltage to pass through. or if there is a data module installed, that it has gone bad and cant send out the full voltake anymore (pretty common)

 

Everything operates normally with the wire spliced in from the fuse box. I'm just worried that bypass method would cause some long-term problems?

this is why i reccomended using diode's to isolate both circuits

 

 

I tested without diodes and everything worked smoothly, but I'm not sure if they're completely necessary to be isolating circuits?

necessary, no, but it is little extra protection for just a couple of minutes worth of work, you could also just use the wire forom the fuse box and toatlly disconnect the wire from the harness.