120bpm Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 OK. I've checked all the prior post on this topic that has been well discussed, but I'm still coming up short on my install. Rerouted green parking brake to ground, check. Connected new wire into "mystery hole" next to ground wire in the harness (the only empty harness wire), check. Reset nav unit. Now, the unit acts fine while the car is sitting, but immediately reverts back to dumb down mode as soon as the car is moving. While checking the setting in the car, it is showing my parking brake as being off and then as soon as I stop, it shows it on. I am sure all my connections are solid and good. I did upgrade to the newer version of the D1 software if that matters. Hopefully someone else has some ideas what I missed. I swear also that when I first did this, everything was functioning like it should with the bypass in effect. It seemed to detect that there was a bypass and then used the speedometer or gps link to detect. Thanks ahead of time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
whtcrxghst Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 I would double check the connections again, including checking that the extra wire pin is firmly snapped into the plug that goes into the deck. Don't think there has ever been a D1/2 that wouldn't bypass Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jhoglesr Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 Your parking brake should only show on when you set your parking brake . Did you set it or just stop the car ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
120bpm Posted February 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 I'M guessing the bypass tricks the parking brake to register "on" which it does, even when I'm stopped without it being engaged. Once rolling, the handbrake registers "off" with the hardware info screen. Perhaps I don't have the "mystery" connection set right but I have then wired as carefully as I can (no T's, just bare wire with all grounds, including the parking brake, leading to a common ground that is working correctly. I even made a small metal connector that engages the pin in the empty harness slot). I actually have done this twice. The first time with wire T's and just a bare wire into the harness. I thought the connection was faulty and redid it more carefully as described above. Same results though. I also get the incorrect wiring screen everytime I start the car, but I have heard this is normal even for correctly bypassed cars. I'm starting to rethink it and just go back the recommended way. At least then I can tap the E brake to get my lost nav features. With the way it is now, I have to come to a complete stop, even without the parking brake on. Let's figure this this out! I'm jelous of all you full feature drivers . Also, it seems others are having the same issues. I just picked this unit up a few weeks ago. Any chance the changed some things with later D1 models? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
120bpm Posted February 13, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 From some more research on this forum, it seem like the weak link might be the pin-wire connection in the harness. I'll try using a spare one from the harness and see if that doesn't make a better connection and eliminate the problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
shoman94 Posted February 13, 2007 Report Share Posted February 13, 2007 From some more research on this forum, it seem like the weak link might be the pin-wire connection in the harness. I'll try using a spare one from the harness and see if that doesn't make a better connection and eliminate the problem. You are connecting them both to a chassis ground right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
120bpm Posted February 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2007 Yes, I'm using the same common ground that the nav unit, xm unit and ipod interface are all using and working properly. These were installed by a Circuit City installer and look to be proper with no T taps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
HansB Posted February 15, 2007 Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Let us know how it turns out.....I'd use a factory pin to ensure a good mating in the harness versus a bare wire. Even when removing an unused wire from your OEM harness and locking it into the the empty 10 slot next to the ground, it is still a little wobbly and definitely needs to be "guided in" as you reconnect your harness to the D1. When I did one recently it sure felt like it was wobbly even when connected, but it did mate up with the pin on the other side of the harness and it worked fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
120bpm Posted February 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 Well, I did the wire up today. Even soldered the connections instead of twisting. I removed the black/yellow cell phone mute wire and replaced it in the empty slot. The slot is slightly bigger then the other, so you have to be careful it stays centered. I didn't have time to drive it but things look encouraging. The brake is showing on when it is off and I did not get a faulty wiring warning on start up. I was getting this prior and had thought that these would go away. So to sum it up, you really should use a spare harness connectore, since a weak or poor ground on the empty harness pin will not enable the bypass to work. I still need to roadtest it, but I'm hopeful this did the trick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
120bpm Posted February 15, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2007 IT WORKED! This would explain the intial working and then not. The ground going to the missing hanrness must be very good and you really need to use an existing spare connector. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.