DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY MISHAPS, DAMAGE, OR HARM DONE TO YOU OR YOUR POSESSIONS BASED ON THESE INSTRUCTIONS. USE AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!



****NOTE**** This thread is only for units manufactured prior to July 2006. For units made after July look here for instructions:
http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html

For units prior to 07/06:

*****EDIT*****
NOTE: The solution below will work and uses "off the shelf" parts. However, a fellow board member and Z1 enthusiast has developed an ALL IN ONE solution for forum members at a much cheaper price than 2 -TR7's and works with or without autoheadlights. I recommend this solution over the instructions below as there is no programming, it's cheaper, it works with all types of illumination/dimmer wires, and it's designed solely for this purpose. For more information and instructions on how to order please review this thread:
http://avic411.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=166
*****END EDIT*****


Hey guys, just wrote this up, hope it helps some of you out. Below are instructions on how to use one tr7 to bypass z1 security or 2 tr7's to bypass security with autoheadlights.

Difficulty:
Wiring - Moderate
Programming - Easy

Programming a PAC-TR7 to bypass AVIC-Z1 motion security

FYI, the following will work even if your parking brake, speed sense and GPS is all attached properly. You do not need to defeat these systems for this bypass to work.

Make sure your PAC-TR7 is revision 1.1.2 or greater! The ONLY way to tell if it is 1.1.2 or greater is by looking at the bottom left hand corner of the instructions that came with your PAC unit. It will say something like “SW 1.2.4.”

IF at ANY point you mess up during this process unhook the red power line, turn your PAC switch off and then back on, reattach power and start over. READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION SET before starting. You have to be pretty quick, and if you wait too long between steps you have to start over.

Take your pac out and strip the leads, make sure none of the leads touch each other.
Turn the switch to your PAC ON.
Attach the black lead to ground and the red lead to an unswitched positive source.
Touch the brown wire to ground (wherever the black wire is hooked up will do) 17 times. You will see the red light flash every time you touch.
Wait 3 seconds
The red light on the PAC should now flash 17 times, MAKE SURE it flashes 17 times.
Touch brown to ground once
Wait 3 seconds for the red light to flash quickly for a second.
Wait 3 more seconds for the red light to flash 2 sets of light flashes quickly
Wait 3 more seconds for the red light to flash 3 sets of light flashes quickly
Touch the brown wire to ground 5 times.
Confirm the red light flashes 5 times
Wait 3 seconds for the light to flash 4 sets of light flashes quickly followed by rapidly flashing lights.

You have now completed programming. You have just programmed your PAC-TR7 to pulse once after 5 seconds when on a constant trigger. Now TURN OFF the PAC-TR7 switch.

Wiring:

Attach the red wire to either constant + or switched +, it doesn’t matter which, I'd recommend switched. Attach black to ground. Attach BLUE to your Z1 dimmer wire, I highly suggest putting a diode inline to allow electricity to only flow towards the HU.

Attach Green to Z1's amp turn on wire.

That’s it your done. Upon starting your car your TR7 will send a + pulse to your HU between 5-6 seconds after the the amp turn on wire turns on which should be timed properly to unlock your Z1.

AUTOHEADLIGHTS WORKAROUND

If you want your dimmer wire to function properly (ie dim the HU at night) and you have auto headlights or don’t want to wait 7 seconds to turn your headlights on (if you have autolights at night and/or your headlights turn on BEFORE the TR7 pulses the trick WILL NOT WORK without performing the steps below) here’s what you do.

First off you will need ANOTHER TR7. Program the first one as stated above. Program the second one as follows:

IF at ANY point you mess up during this process unhook the red power line, turn your PAC switch off and then back on, reattach power and start over. READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTION SET before starting. You have to be pretty quick, and if you wait too long between steps you have to start over.

Take your pac out and strip the leads, make sure none of the leads touch each other.
Turn the switch to your PAC ON.
Attach the black lead to ground and the red lead to an unswitched positive source.
Touch the brown wire to ground (wherever the black wire is hooked up will do) 12 times. You will see the red light flash every time you touch.
Wait 3 seconds
The red light on the PAC should now flash 12 times, MAKE SURE it flashes 12 times.
Now ground the brown wire once
Wait 3 seconds
Confirm the light blinks once
Ground the brown wire again once
Wait 3 seconds
Confirm the light blinks once
Wait 3 seconds
Ground the brown wire once again
Wait 3 seconds
Confirm the light blinks once
Ground the brown wire once
The light will let out 1 quick burst of light flashing
Wait 3 seconds
The light will let out 2 quick bursts of light flashes
Touch the ground wire twice
Wait 3 seconds
Confirm the light blinks twice
The light will let out 3 quick bursts of light flashes
Wait 3 seconds
The light will let out 4 quick bursts of light flashes
Ground the brown wire once
The light will let out 1 quick burst of light flashing
Wait 3 seconds
The light will let out 2 quick bursts of light flashes
Touch the ground wire twice
Wait 3 seconds
Confirm the light blinks twice
The light will let out 3 quick bursts of light flashes
Wait 3 seconds
The light will let out 4 quick bursts of light flashes
Ground the brown wire once
The light will let out 1 quick burst of light flashing
Wait 3 seconds
The light will let out 2 quick bursts of light flashes
Touch the ground wire twice
Wait 3 seconds
Confirm the light blinks twice
The light will let out 3 quick bursts of light flashes
Wait 3 seconds
The light will let out 4 quick bursts of light flashes
The unit will now flash the light quickly. Programming is complete.

What you have just done is programmed the output to delay turning on for 20 seconds. The steps above actually have you turn on this timer on all 3 outputs when you really only need it on the first one. But since you have to program all 3 timers anyway I figured might as well program them all for 20 seconds, it doesn’t hurt anything.

Turn the switch to the PAC OFF and wire as follows:

Attach the red wire to switched positive, I'd recommend the red wire off the Z1. (TR7 current draw is minimal). Attach black to ground. Attach BLUE to your Z1 dimmer wire, I highly suggest putting a diode inline to allow electricity to only flow towards the HU.

Attach the green wire to the cars factory dimmer wire.

If wired properly you should have the following scenario:
Black wires from both TR7’s are going to chassis ground.
Red wires from both TR7’s are going to switched positive.
Blue wires from both TR7’s are going to Z1 dimmer wire with diode inline (do not connect – side [unstriped] of diode’s together!)
Green wire from 5 second pulse programming is going to Z1 amp turn on wire
Green wire from 20 second delay programming is going to car dimmer wire - I've personally put a diode on this wire too

Basically what will happen is if you start your car at night, your lights will automatically come on, however the dimmer wire on the Z1 will not get the signal to dim the display for 20 seconds. Before that 20 seconds is up your first TR7 module will send a pulse to the dimmer wire to disable security features.

Good luck and post in this thread with questions.

Fantastic Post!

This is a sticky!

JasonH said:

Fantastic Post!

This is a sticky!

Thanks, and thanks for making this great site!

I just realized it would be better to use the amp turn on wire as the trigger as opposed to an ignition switched wire. I'm modifying the instructions now.

*edit* ok modified to have amp turn on wire as trigger for 3 second security bypass and amp turn on as power for 20 second delay wire.

I just thought of something else....with the second module for the auto headlight trick I have two other ground triggers on timers....I could set them to stay on for a second then turn off which would eliminate the parking brake warning and I could use my parking brake with no ill effect....hmm....

Anyone know how the Z1 detects parking brake abnormalities?

For those who have never programmed a tr7, i reccomentd bench programming instead of having it hooked up in the car, will save you a massive headache.

Just put the tr7 on my car and it works every time, even if it was left on dvd when you turned off the car. Thanks for the work.!!

Also, I agree bench setup your tr7, as well I have my parking brake wire grounded and speed sensor hooked up. Everything works great.

Anonymous said:

For those who have never programmed a tr7, i reccomentd bench programming instead of having it hooked up in the car, will save you a massive headache.

What is bench programming ?.....kind of new to this stuff pls help. thanks :roll:

thenewkid said:

Anonymous said:

For those who have never programmed a tr7, i reccomentd bench programming instead of having it hooked up in the car, will save you a massive headache.

What is bench programming ?.....kind of new to this stuff pls help. thanks :roll:

It means to program the unit outside of your car with a 12v source and multimeter if available. If you do not have a 12v source I'd suggest getting a cigarette lighter adapter from radio shack. It's important to program your unit and test it before installing it to make sure it's functioning properly.

On a side note if anyone in the NoVA area needs help you can PM me.

Got my Z1 installed today.. did the mod on my own with 2 Tr7s (auto headlights mod) .. AWSOME!!!

works 100%.. didnt use diodes, will that hurt me?

P s. Edrock - thanks for all the help, really appresiate it..

Diodes would be a good idea, it prevents backfeeding voltage into the cars ciruits...

BoCaPiMp said:

Got my Z1 installed today.. did the mod on my own with 2 Tr7s (auto headlights mod) .. AWSOME!!!

works 100%.. didnt use diodes, will that hurt me?

P s. Edrock - thanks for all the help, really appresiate it..

No prob, glad it worked for you. As 03-Vic-HPP mentioned, my only concern is that the TR7's would feed back power to the lights which would may overload and worst case blow a fuse. However, in examing the TR7's design closer it appears that the unit itself acts as a diode as I can't detect voltage on the trigger wire when putting power to the output wire, so no feedback occurs. You should be fine, I just use diodes to be safe.

Yeah, better safe than sorry, I know a lot of cars now days (at least mine) uses a computer (Lighting Control Module [LCM]) to controll all of the lights in the car so feeding 12v back into it could be bad news...

I HAVE PROGRAMED UP A TR7 TO DO AS YOU SAY. I HAVE ALSO METERED THE TR7 TO MAKE SURE IT IS PULSING +12V AT 3-4 SEC. BUT THE LOCK OUT IS NOT WORKING
ANY MORE INFO WOULD BE GREAT
THANK
BRETT!

GUEST said:

I HAVE PROGRAMED UP A TR7 TO DO AS YOU SAY. I HAVE ALSO METERED THE TR7 TO MAKE SURE IT IS PULSING +12V AT 3-4 SEC. BUT THE LOCK OUT IS NOT WORKING
ANY MORE INFO WOULD BE GREAT
THANK
BRETT!

IT SAYS TO HOOK IT UP TO THE DIMMER WIRE. THERE IS ONLY AN ILLM. WIRE. I ASSUME THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. STILL NOT WORKING!!??

BANDER148 said:

GUEST said:

I HAVE PROGRAMED UP A TR7 TO DO AS YOU SAY. I HAVE ALSO METERED THE TR7 TO MAKE SURE IT IS PULSING +12V AT 3-4 SEC. BUT THE LOCK OUT IS NOT WORKING
ANY MORE INFO WOULD BE GREAT
THANK
BRETT!

IT SAYS TO HOOK IT UP TO THE DIMMER WIRE. THERE IS ONLY AN ILLM. WIRE. I ASSUME THIS IS WHAT YOU ARE TALKING ABOUT. STILL NOT WORKING!!??

Yes, illumination wire. Are you metering out in the car? What is your red wire attached to?

OK, edrock 200, heres one for you, i always remote start my truck, when i do, the lights stay on, the radio is off, now when i turn the ignition on the radio comes on BUT the lights will already be on SO i figure my options are:

1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??

2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..

Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?

Corey497 said:

OK, edrock 200, heres one for you, i always remote start my truck, when i do, the lights stay on, the radio is off, now when i turn the ignition on the radio comes on BUT the lights will already be on SO i figure my options are:

1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??

2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..

Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?

This is why I suggest powering the pac with the amp turn on wire for the pulse. However most cars shut off the switched positive when cranking the engine, so hooking up to this will also work. I also remote start my car, so I know what you mean:

1. Double tap remote start on remote
2. Lights and accessories come on about 3 seconds before engine crank
3. Engine cranks

At step two, most vehicles shut down the switched positive, so your stereo should reset at crank. If so, attach the pulse tr7 to switched positive and time for 5-6 seconds, if not attach the tr7 to amp turn on wire and time for 3-4 seconds. Does that make sense?

As for the parking brake wire, mine is hooked up correctly, but I never use my parking brake, so it's really not an issue for me. However, if you plan on using it leave the pbrake wire disconnected. From my understanding this will not cause any errors and you can use your pbrake freely with no lockout issues on the Z1 since it will never know the state of the pbrake (setting and unsetting the pbrake will re-enable security lockouts on the unit if your pbrake wire is attached properly.)

Corey497 said:

OK, edrock 200, heres one for you, i always remote start my truck, when i do, the lights stay on, the radio is off, now when i turn the ignition on the radio comes on BUT the lights will already be on SO i figure my options are:

1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??

2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..

Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?

I was thinking of this situation and for a minute I thought I was going to have to modify my circuit to take this kind of thing into account, but I don't think I have to.

No matter what happens when you auto start your car, when power is applied to the switched 12 volts for the radio, the Z1 will boot up. If power goes away when cranking over the engine and the Z1 reboots, so would a PAC or my circuit. In which case that still when you want these to power up, with the radio.

If you auto start your car and switched 12 volts is not supplied to the radio at this time and the radio doesn't boot up, you don't care. You turn on the ignition and then the 12V switched powers up the Z1, then that's when you want the PAC's or my circuit to power up. It sounds really complicated, but if you power the PAC's or my circuit from the 12V switched going to the Z1, that fine, thats when you want it too boot up anyway.

Remember this radio is not like most, when it's powered off, it's off. But when you turn on the car, it's powered on, even if you say you want it "off" it's still on. If you run it off the AMP signal and you turn your radio "off" it's still on but the amp signal might go off. Not to dissagree with you Edrock, but I think powering it off the 12V switched (at the radio input) is probably the best approach.

Corey497 said:

1: wire 2 PAC's in the "auto headlight" style, BUT will i still have the night/day feature with the lights??

Yes you can do that, or get one of my circuits and don't install 2 things. But yes, if hooked correctly, you should still have the night day feature.

Corey497 said:

2: use 1 PAC and dont connect the trucks illumination wire to the radio..

You could but the unit is so bright as it is, I like the night and day feature. Or you could install just my one unit and keep the night/day feature.

Corey497 said:

Im still confused on the parking brake wire, i guess do nothing with it..?..?..?

You can hook it up regular. It's what I did. But with an automatic and putting it in park, I hardly ever use it. If I had a manual tranny, I would probably wire it to a toggle switch cause I wouldn't want to bother having it activated and deactivated with a PAC or my circuit in there.... just in case... it might not matter (and honestly I don't think it does) but just in case.

GUYS... thanks for the info, radio is in standby (like key off) when the remote start is on, the radio never comes on during the remote start, what im getting at is... When i turn the ignition on, the radio will come on (leaving it on say XM when i turn the key off) BUT the lights will aready be on, so will that 2 PAC circut cut the power, perform the bypass pulse's and then work as usuall??

Corey497 said:

GUYS... thanks for the info, radio is in standby (like key off) when the remote start is on, the radio never comes on during the remote start, what im getting at is... When i turn the ignition on, the radio will come on (leaving it on say XM when i turn the key off) BUT the lights will aready be on, so will that 2 PAC circut cut the power, perform the bypass pulse's and then work as usuall??

forgot, cant edit...

Ducadiboy, I just saw this thread:: When you first turn your car on, it will simulate the signal the head unit would normally see if you flashed your headlights. After 10 seconds have gone by, it watches what your lights are doing wether they are on or off. It does nothing to the car, it just watches. It then copies what your car is doing (have your lights on or off) and relays that signal to your head unit.

so that answers my question...
you selling anymore of the circuts? I just read something that said you want orders and they will ship after the 18th or something right??

Corey497 said:

GUYS... thanks for the info, radio is in standby (like key off) when the remote start is on, the radio never comes on during the remote start, what im getting at is... When i turn the ignition on, the radio will come on (leaving it on say XM when i turn the key off) BUT the lights will aready be on, so will that 2 PAC circut cut the power, perform the bypass pulse's and then work as usuall??

You could use the two pacs. They power up with the radio. If the lights are already on, you will need 2 of them. But the fact that the radio does not come on till the key is turned means the 12V switched line going to the radio is not energized till you turn the key. When it is energized, it will power up the radio and the pac's all at once.

I know it seems complicated, but as long as the Z1 and the PAC (or my circuit) is powered up at the same time you are good to go.

Corey497 said:

so that answers my question...
you selling anymore of the circuts? I just read something that said you want orders and they will ship after the 18th or something right??

Yes I am. There has been WAY more interest in these than even I thought. I'm working as hard as I can and I even bumped up the shipping of the next batch to get everything here for the weekend. I will waste a few hours of my weekend, but I'm hoping I can catch up with the demand. I built 12 tonight, I hope to finish the final few for the first batch tomorrow. I should get the second round Friday. Hopefully, if all goes well, shipping Monday.

Just read this post, it's all in there:
http://www.avic411.com/forum/viewtopic. ... 66&start=0

ducatiboy said:

Remember this radio is not like most, when it's powered off, it's off. But when you turn on the car, it's powered on, even if you say you want it "off" it's still on. If you run it off the AMP signal and you turn your radio "off" it's still on but the amp signal might go off. Not to dissagree with you Edrock, but I think powering it off the 12V switched (at the radio input) is probably the best approach.

This is true, I didn't think about that, however pulsing the unit again after it's already been bypassed doesn't hurt the unit or the state of the bypass either, so it should still work. My only reason for attaching it this way is you can get more consistent timing since you only get one pulse out of the pac-tr7.

edrock200 said:

This is true, I didn't think about that, however pulsing the unit again after it's already been bypassed doesn't hurt the unit or the state of the bypass either, so it should still work. My only reason for attaching it this way is you can get more consistent timing since you only get one pulse out of the pac-tr7.

Yah, I don't know about the PAC units, but if you have them hooked up via the AMP line and you "turn off the audio on your radio" you might not get "dimming" features when you turn your head lights on. I know you won't with my circuit. Not a big problem, but it is there. And if you have the audio (music) off, but are using the nav system... will the AMP line turn off... maybe you need to hear the nav voice though the amps in your car? I don't know, I didn't test it too much.

But the 12V switched is not "powering the car". It's just a signal line telling the radio when to turn on and when to turn off, no current flows though it (for the most part). All power is going though the 12V all the time yellow wire.

When the 12V switched line goes high, it tells the radio to turn on, it also powers the PACs or my circuit. Then the timing it based on the startup time of the radio from the sense of the 12V switched line. Or if you use the AMP line, assuming it still comes on if the AV is off in the head unit, you have the timing from AMP line turn on till it needs to flash.

It's probably 6 of one 1/2 dozen of the other. But I don't think the 12V switched sense to power up of the unit is that variable. If the unit is on, then it is on cause the 12V switched went to 12V. If it goes away even for a second, then the unit reboots. I don't think that anyone will have issues with these powered up off the 12v switched even with any type of auto start system. I could be wrong, it has happened before and hopefully I will get some good feedback from these first units.