All of the Z1's that I have installed require you to flash the lights Twice in order to bypass. These instructions state that it only flashes Once.

Also, a different part is available, pre programmed and less expensive. The DEI 452T.

HACK said:

All of the Z1's that I have installed require you to flash the lights Twice in order to bypass. These instructions state that it only flashes Once.

Also, a different part is available, pre programmed and less expensive. The DEI 452T.

It's a matter of timing, Two flashes will work and so will 3, but you only need one. There are a ton of people on here who have it working with 1. If you need 2, try "pretending" on one of them (either the first or second). If you get the timing down, I'll bet you can get it with one flash.

As for the different part, I checked into the DEI, and yah it will make a flash. But if you have auto headlights, you will need to make sure they are not connected or on when it's flashing. You will probably also need a diode in there to stop the backfeeding into the car system. If you have that and your lights are on when it's flashing it won't work. Which is why I made my little circuit. But you can't beat the DEI price.

This works but I had to do 5 sec on the TR7 pulse

Thanks

I have updated the instructions based on my own experience with the TR7's and other users input.

whats the difference from when you first made this up?"

cause i have had it since that day, and i have NO problems"knock on wood"

i get all functions while drivig no problem with ur first post of these instructions, using 2 Pr7s

BoCaPiMp said:

whats the difference from when you first made this up?"

cause i have had it since that day, and i have NO problems"knock on wood"

i get all functions while drivig no problem with ur first post of these instructions, using 2 Pr7s

I believe the instructions had the flashing happening after 3 second, but from my experiance, that is a little too early. You want a toggle between 5 and 7 seconds (or so). If you do it to early then it won't "hit the sweet spot". I think if you have his first instructions, the "down stroke" of the flash is just hitting inside the window. Making it flash after 5 second, you get the up swing of the signal inside the sweet spot and so is the down swing of the signal. Just makes for a more robust design.

If yours is working with the timing you programmed, leave it alone. If you happend to program it and it's working for you, I wouldn't touch it.

A few things changed. The first day I had it timed for 5 seconds and powered off of the unswitched or switched positive wire. I then switched it to 3 seconds and powered by the amp turn on wire. Both scenarios had the trigger as the illumination wire however since the second scenario got power from the amp turn on, it took longer to kick in. Both send the pulse around the same tme but I found that the original scenario of power off the accessory SWITCHED wire works better.

Sorry for the confusion for those that already did this I just have been changing settings in my car trying to find the best method, I've found that the latest revision works 100%.

I agree, some people thought that amp turn on should be best, but I agree the switched output should be best. Thanks for working on that for the Avic community.

i have installed a tr-7 and having difficulty getting it to work i bench programed it and it seems not to be working my emergency brake wire is not grounded and i have all the wires connected i have the green wire to amp remote control (blue/white wire ) and the blue to the orange/white illumination. it doesnt seem to be pulsing on the illumination wire any
help would be appreciated thanks

Switch your trigger wire to positive switched (red I believe.) Whats your timing set at?

whats up guys. I have a quick noob question about the PAC TR7 unit. I don't know too much about car electronics so please bear with me.

When the TR7 is programmed and connected properly, do i just leave it in the "ON" position or do i have to switch it off as soon as the motion security bypass works? TIA

STiylish WRX said:

whats up guys. I have a quick noob question about the PAC TR7 unit. I don't know too much about car electronics so please bear with me.

When the TR7 is programmed and connected properly, do i just leave it in the "ON" position or do i have to switch it off as soon as the motion security bypass works? TIA

The switch must be in the "off" position. "On" is only for programming.

can i buy a tr7 at a local store or do i have to order it. and if i do have to order it how long will it take to get here

Hi guys, been trying to get this thing rolling with no luck.
tr7 wired as such-
red=+12
black=ground
green=+12 switched
blue=ill. on Z1
one pulse at 3 seconds=no dvd w/prk brk off
one pulse at 5 seconds=no dvd w/prk brk off
How do I program tr7 for more pulses?
Any help would be appreciated.
p.s. Love this forum.

One pulse at 5 seconds should be sufficient since it will fire on the 6th second. Have you metered it out?

edrock200 said:

One pulse at 5 seconds should be sufficient since it will fire on the 6th second. Have you metered it out?

Sure did and Im seeing the pulse but I think I need to make it six seconds. It seems to be a hair early.

i just got mine installed and the flashing of the lights does not work - does anyone live here in the LA area that i can pay to have this done? (2001 mercedes e55)

Does anyone know if the TR7 needs to be reprogrammed if the Avic Z1 is removed (as well as all the cabling) and it is transferred to another car? The TR7 was previously programmed and working, but I am wondering if I need to program it again or not to rehook up the unit. Thanks!!!

adachan said:

Does anyone know if the TR7 needs to be reprogrammed if the Avic Z1 is removed (as well as all the cabling) and it is transferred to another car? The TR7 was previously programmed and working, but I am wondering if I need to program it again or not to rehook up the unit. Thanks!!!

No, it does not need to be reprogrammed. However, if you already have the unit out you may as well perform the bluetooth update and use the newer phone interrupt wire mod method. Much cleaner and easier.

No, it does not need to be reprogrammed. However, if you already have the unit out you may as well perform the bluetooth update and use the newer phone interrupt wire mod method. Much cleaner and easier.

Could you please link me to the instructions to do this mod
(phone interrupt) -- I read the directions for the TR7 and they seem pretty simple. Why do you say its easier and cleaner? Thanks for the info.

adachan said:

No, it does not need to be reprogrammed. However, if you already have the unit out you may as well perform the bluetooth update and use the newer phone interrupt wire mod method. Much cleaner and easier.

Could you please link me to the instructions to do this mod
(phone interrupt) -- I read the directions for the TR7 and they seem pretty simple. Why do you say its easier and cleaner? Thanks for the info.

Take a look here:

http://www.sminntech.com/z1flash.html

The software update will improve your bluetooth audio quality and speed up a few display issues.

Once you perform this update, instead of pulsing the illum. wire you simply need to ground two wires. I personally think this is cleaner and nicer because you no longer have additional components in your dash, and there is no more timing issues (some people have problems if they turn there car off and right back on with flasher circuits, though this is rare.) With the 2 wire ground, it's always disabled.

thanks for the info edrock -- I will give it a try.

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