If I just hook the camera wire (that goes to the reverse sensor) to a 12v supply with an on/off switch would this affect my navigation if I switched it on while moving? I know I can use the split screen view in the navigation while driving but I like the full view pic better.
I haven't bought it yet. I was waitng to buy it to see if anything else was needed after I buy it. I think I found it for $77 w/ free shipping somewhere...
So the wiring harness takes care of everything listed above (except for the mounting kit)??? There's no need for the 5v regulator, shaker adaptor, & or any other wiring harness?
I got my Z2 from crutchfield, it came with the radio, blue tooth adapter, ipod interface, camera, disassembly and reassembly instructions, all wiring harnesses and adapters, install instructions etc for $1399 and was here in 2 days. Everything i needed was in the box except the resistor mod and the xm box. Instructions were very easy. Just do the wiring harness inside in the air conditioning before you go out to the car. Take your time and read the book and posts it is not hard at all and sure beats paying bb 300-400 to do it.
Well they went up 100 from when I got mine 2 weeks ago
Damn I missed that. I just paid $1,150.00 free shipping for mine off eBay. It was brand new for $1,050 free shipping then I paid an additional $100 for the Pioneer 5 yr. warranty
I haven't bought it yet. I was waitng to buy it to see if anything else was needed after I buy it. I think I found it for $77 w/ free shipping somewhere...
Sounds about right. Found mine for $72 + shipping.
So the wiring harness takes care of everything listed above (except for the mounting kit)??? There's no need for the 5v regulator, shaker adaptor, & or any other wiring harness?
Correct. The PAC harness has...
• R.A.P. (Retained Accessory Power) +12v output. *rock on*
• VSS output.
• Illumination output.
• Parking brake output.
• Reverse trigger output.
• Digital amp turn-on.
• Discrete 5v amp turn-on
Took me about an hour to solder/heat shrink everything up on the work bench, then it was just a matter of sticking it all in the dash. Just need a mounting kit.
I haven't bought it yet. I was waitng to buy it to see if anything else was needed after I buy it. I think I found it for $77 w/ free shipping somewhere...Sounds about right. Found mine for $72 + shipping.
So the wiring harness takes care of everything listed above (except for the mounting kit)??? There's no need for the 5v regulator, shaker adaptor, & or any other wiring harness?Correct. The PAC harness has...
• R.A.P. (Retained Accessory Power) +12v output. *rock on*
• VSS output.
• Illumination output.
• Parking brake output.
• Reverse trigger output.
• Digital amp turn-on.
• Discrete 5v amp turn-on
Took me about an hour to solder/heat shrink everything up on the work bench, then it was just a matter of sticking it all in the dash. Just need a mounting kit.
Sounds good. Thanks for the help.
Cheapest Ive found it - $75 + 7 shipping
Cheapest Ive found it - $75 + 7 shipping
http://www.keenzo.com/showproduct.asp?ID=1254746
Bought mine there.
Arrived and works... Just don't expect much in the way of customer service...
And yes, the page does say 2007-208, but that PAC harness workss for 2004-2008 (even some '03's).
executioner,
Did you do the bypass? If so, how did you do the bypass? I checked out the sticky on the bypass for the z2 and it says something like you need to download a file & burn it onto a CD as an image..?
I bought the upgreded hard drive from garrettoomy which had the software updates already in it , then did the two wire bypass. Works great.
I bought the upgreded hard drive from garrettoomy which had the software updates already in it , then did the two wire bypass. Works great.
Executioner and mroaches: Where did you guys place the GPS antenna, and how is it working for you guys? I'm installing a Z3 in my 06 GT this weekend, and I'm not sure whether to take it all the way back to the rear window, put it up front or what..
Thanks,
Tom
in my fiance's car i ran the antenna the left side of the windshield under the registration stickers
If your '06 is late in the production cycle, you may have a nice factory "platform" to mount the antenna too. If its from early in the model year, you can mount it right above the instrument cluster inside the dash.
The instrument cluster is insanely easy to remove. Just pop out the dash trim on it (it's just held in with clips) and remove 4 screws. really is the easiest way to get to the stuff.
see the attached pdfs to help you out.
Thanks guys! That is very helpful! I think I will look for that shelf or use the area under the instrument cluster. The signal should be good enough, even if it's covered like that, right?
I'm feeling a little intimidated by all this. I got one of the PAC harnesses today, which I thought would make it super easy to install, but there's a lot of wires on there! Hopefully when I get started, things will fall into place..
Tom
dont be nervous man. you dont use all of the wires. and everything is basically color coded. piece of cake!
Correct, there are quite a few wires in the PAC you won"t need for a mustang
No rear seat entertainment option in a mustang to hook up. No steering wheel controls. Mine didn't even have the factory line in option. No power antenna either. also you won't be using the parking brake lead from the PAC if you are going to be bypassing.
I actually removed all the unneeded wires from the harnesses to cut down on the clutter. Not that I would recommend that unless you really know what you are doing.
I say you did the right thing with the PAC. you DID save yourself quite a bit of time. you can hook up EVERYTHING on the bench and just plug and play the harnesses in the car. really is that simple. man, I am so glad I found that harness.
Oh - and take your time making all of your connections. do them right the first time. any time you save rushing through it will be lost when you have to pull it out to redo it.
Ok I have couple of other somewhat stupid question:
-How do you guys attach the wires to each other? I got these "butt connectors" from Radioshack (16-14 gauge), but I'm not sure if those are right. I also have some tap-in squeeze connectors, which looks like they could work?
-Should I just pair up all the cables I find that do match? And it's ok if the shade of green is a just a little bit different than the green I'm attaching it to?
This is my first attempt ever to install something electronic in my car, so I hope you can forgive my questions here.
Finally (hah! Right), where did you guys with Mustangs put the grounding plugs? Anywhere on that metal frame that surrounds the ac/navigation/stereo area?
I must say the car came apart really easy. I was afraid I was going to have to use a lot more force. The worst part was getting the center console piece over the hand brake, but I do have a metal cover for it, so that's probably what caused that.
Again, thanks for your help bobsyouruncle and CatchMeIfYouCan631!
Tom
butt connectors will work in a pinch... pardon the pun, but i really prefer soldering the connections and using heat shrink tubing on them. Butt connectors can and do come loose over time if the crimp is not just right. make sure you use the right crimp tool for the connector and give them a little tug to make sure they are secure. you don' t really have to worry about soldered connections. either it's soldered or it isn't. Soldered and shrinked just looks neater in my opinion as well.
Don't rely on the color coding of the wires to to be perfect. get out the wiring diagrams that came with the harness and the radio. Match up the functions one wire at a time and make the connections one at a time. check each one twice before you hook it up, the old measure twice cut once adage.
There is a ground in the factory harness that connects to the ground in the PAC harness. It will work fine. It's rated to handle more than you'll ever pull with this unit.
Yeah, the e-brake is a bitch to snake through the console when you're taking it off. If you have a metal handle, it's probably easier than the factory grip. It's rubber and grabs on the rubber on the console opening. Put a little tire shine on the metal handle before you reinstall and it should slide on a lot easier.
the center console came right off IMO. i pulled that ebrake as high as it would go though, and it was a pain getting it back down
what pissed me off the most, and im sure youll agree, was those 2 damn plugs that had to be disconnected for the temperature functions
having a service manual makes it a snap.
pull center console. take off side panels from center stack. disconnect cables. then pull center panel out. a picture of the gear/levered connector helps as well the first time.
the center console came right off IMO. i pulled that ebrake as high as it would go though, and it was a pain getting it back down
what pissed me off the most, and im sure youll agree, was those 2 damn plugs that had to be disconnected for the temperature functions
Yes! I cut my hand on some metal piece trying to take that plug out by reaching behind the console. When I got it further out, I finally saw how to remove that plug.
I went out and got a soldering iron and some heat shrink tubing and a heat gun. While I am enjoying this more than I thought, I prefer to do it just once! 
Does the Car Speed Signal Input get used for anything? I haven't been able to find a wire for it on the PAC unit. Looking at the harness inside the car, I see a pink wire going to it, but that's it.
Also, the subwoofer cables on the PAC are green and purple, does it matter which goes into the red/white cables that came with the Z3?
Thanks for your help!
Tom
butt connectors will work in a pinch... pardon the pun, but i really prefer soldering the connections and using heat shrink tubing on them. Butt connectors can and do come loose over time if the crimp is not just right. make sure you use the right crimp tool for the connector and give them a little tug to make sure they are secure. you don' t really have to worry about soldered connections. either it's soldered or it isn't. Soldered and shrinked just looks neater in my opinion as well.
Don't rely on the color coding of the wires to to be perfect. get out the wiring diagrams that came with the harness and the radio. Match up the functions one wire at a time and make the connections one at a time. check each one twice before you hook it up, the old measure twice cut once adage.
There is a ground in the factory harness that connects to the ground in the PAC harness. It will work fine. It's rated to handle more than you'll ever pull with this unit.
Yeah, the e-brake is a bitch to snake through the console when you're taking it off. If you have a metal handle, it's probably easier than the factory grip. It's rubber and grabs on the rubber on the console opening. Put a little tire shine on the metal handle before you reinstall and it should slide on a lot easier.
VSS / speed pulse is purple with white stripe on the PAC harness & i think it is pink on the avic harness. that's what i meant by using the wiring diagrams and hooking up one at a time and not just trusting the colors. Find VSS on stereo harness, then go find VSS on PAC. Then match those colors together and connect. and since you are using the PAC and VSS is right there, go ahead and use it. your tracking will be more accurate.
The colors on the sub rca's don't matter. Only one is used on the shaker 500. I don't remember which. The other isn't hooked up to anything in the wiring in the car unless you have the shaker 1000. Even then, they get the same signal so it doesn't matter. Just hook them both up to avoid loose wires.
a soldering iron is a good investment. the things are cheap and last pretty much forever. and now that you have one you will be surprised at how many times you use it. I don't even bother getting out the heat gun for heat shrink. I just use a cigaretta lighter. Shrinks it up in just a couple of seconds.
you aren't trying to make the connections in the dash are you? Dude, doing it outside the car is so much easier.
Also, be sure to pull the ground cable off the battery before you start plugging and unplugging. The chance of blowing something is slim, but there is still a chance.
Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.
VSS / speed pulse is purple with white stripe on the PAC harness & i think it is pink on the avic harness. that's what i meant by using the wiring diagrams and hooking up one at a time and not just trusting the colors. Find VSS on stereo harness, then go find VSS on PAC. Then match those colors together and connect. and since you are using the PAC and VSS is right there, go ahead and use it. your tracking will be more accurate.
I had already connected the VSS from the PAC (purple with white stripe) to the Reverse Gear Signal Input on the Z3. Should I attach the pink VSS to these two as well? Or should the Reverse Gear Signal on the Z3 have gone to the Reverse Light on the PAC (Green wire)?
you aren't trying to make the connections in the dash are you? Dude, doing it outside the car is so much easier.
Oh yes, I do it outside the car. It was a relief to find that I could do it this way. I expected to sit crunched in the car all weekend long.. and with the temperatures being in the 100s, that would be unbearable!
I believe this pink cable is the last one I'm missing, and then I should be done.
Thanks!
Tom
Like I said, you can't always trust the wire colors to match from one harness to the other. Match functions first then find the color in each harnes that goes to that function and put the wires together. it is the actiual function of the wire that has to match, not necessarily the color of the wire. look at the wiring below. The bold items are the ones that do NOT color match from the pac harnes to the avic harness. hook it up just like this and it will work fine.
PAC HArness-----------------------AVIC HArness
Illumination (Orange/White)---------Orange/white (lighting)
+12v Acc.1 AMP max (Red)-----------Red (switched power)
Amp Turn-On (Blue/White)------------Blue/white (amp turn on)
Reverse Light (Green)-------------Violet/white (REVERSEGEAR SIGNAL INPUT)
VSS (Purple/White)-----------------Pink (VSS)
Parking Brake (Red/White)---------Light green (parking brake)
Right Rear + (Purple)------------------Right Rear + (Purple)
Right Rear - (Purple/Black)------------Right Rear - (Purple/Black)
Left Rear + (Green)--------------------Left Rear + (Green)
Left Rear - (Green/Black)--------------Left Rear - (Green/Black)
Front Left + (White)--------------------Front Left + (White)
Front Left - (White/Black)--------------Front Left - (White/Black)
Front Right + (Grey)--------------------Front Right + (Grey)
Front Right - (Grey/Black)--------------Front Right - (Grey/Black)
SWC Output (White/Green)------------****steering wheel controls Not used-in mustang. insulate the end.
Battery (Yellow)-------------------------Yellow constant 12v
Ground (Black)--------------------------Black (ground)
Antenna (Blue)--------------------------Blue(power antenna relay not used on mustang)
**** ------------------------------------Yellow/black (not used unles bypassing or adding options) insulate the end
Thanks man! That was very helpful! That took care of the last couple of "issues" I had. The Z3 is now installed, and works great! Took your advice on the heating gun too, a lighter works just as good!
I appreciate all the help, I know I would not have been able to install it myself, without it!
Tom
Like I said, you can't always trust the wire colors to match from one harness to the other. Match functions first then find the color in each harnes that goes to that function and put the wires together. it is the actiual function of the wire that has to match, not necessarily the color of the wire. look at the wiring below. The bold items are the ones that do NOT color match from the pac harnes to the avic harness. hook it up just like this and it will work fine.
PAC HArness-----------------------AVIC HArness
Illumination (Orange/White)---------Orange/white (lighting)
+12v Acc.1 AMP max (Red)-----------Red (switched power)
Amp Turn-On (Blue/White)------------Blue/white (amp turn on)
Reverse Light (Green)-------------Violet/white (REVERSEGEAR SIGNAL INPUT)
VSS (Purple/White)-----------------Pink (VSS)
Parking Brake (Red/White)---------Light green (parking brake)
Right Rear + (Purple)------------------Right Rear + (Purple)
Right Rear - (Purple/Black)------------Right Rear - (Purple/Black)
Left Rear + (Green)--------------------Left Rear + (Green)
Left Rear - (Green/Black)--------------Left Rear - (Green/Black)
Front Left + (White)--------------------Front Left + (White)
Front Left - (White/Black)--------------Front Left - (White/Black)
Front Right + (Grey)--------------------Front Right + (Grey)
Front Right - (Grey/Black)--------------Front Right - (Grey/Black)
SWC Output (White/Green)------------****steering wheel controls Not used-in mustang. insulate the end.
Battery (Yellow)-------------------------Yellow constant 12v
Ground (Black)--------------------------Black (ground)
Antenna (Blue)--------------------------Blue(power antenna relay not used on mustang)
**** ------------------------------------Yellow/black (not used unles bypassing or adding options) insulate the end
No problem. Always glad to help a fellow Mustang owner out.
Glad it worked out for you. Enjoy.
Now just wait to you really start to crank the volume up and wear out those cheap 8" subs in the doors. There isn't a single piece of my factory shaker 1000 left in the car except for sub enclosure in the trunk. I've replaced it all. Quite the adventure.
