Ok, we all know the boot time is irritating. And thus far, it seems it can't be fixed. My only problem is when i stop for a short period of time, say a convience store and have to wait 1 min again for it. I'm looking for something to keep it on during short stops where i may be 5 min. maximum, maybe 1 min.

Right now, i'm thinking about putting a turbo timer on switched 12volt source. Obviously, this would do the trick. However, that's one more thing i have to find a spot for in my car and they are not small enough to hide easily but still remain accessable to defeat it. I could put a switch in though but couldn't adjust the time if it was totally hidden. There is and issue of cost too, i have one but don't know if it still works, but something simpler would be nicer.

I definitely don't want it to be something i can't defeat because you can't turn the screen off. There are people who steal your stereo because they see it but i'm much more worried about the people who figure out that you have something worth stealing and pay attention to where your car may be at when you arn't going to be quick enough to catch them.

Anyway, any ideas on this? If my old turbo timer still works, it's and obvious but i'm sure other people may want to do the same. I'd prefer something that you would turn on rather than turn off as well.

Why not just get a remote start alarm that works a good distance away so the nav is booted up by the time you get in it?

First, my car has an immobilizer system stock and with a shock sensor, it basically has what i'd pay for in a decently high dollar system paying just for the shock sensor.

Secondly, every aftermarket alarm system i have had myself (only 1) and most of my friends have had problems over time with aftermarket alarms in cars with legit alarms.

Lastly, this would work great in instances where i'm about to leave somewhere i've been but if i'm running inside to 7-11 to grab a beer or stopping to pick somebody up, i may as well leave my car on (but i can't lock my car with the ignition on with the stock alarm).

An aftermarket alarm/remote start sure sounds like the answer to me. With a viper for instance, you engage the r/s, then take the key out. The vehicle will stay running and you can arm the alarm also.

Of course, you need a good installer to make everything go smottly while integrating into the car. What kind of vehicle is this?

No problems with my remote start in 3+ years. Just make sure you have someone install it that knows what they are doing.

On really hot days in situations like your 7-11 example, I pull into the spot, turn off the car and get out. Arm the alarm. Trigger the remote start. Go into 7-11 and do my thing. Go back out to the car and drive away. In the mean time, the car has been blowing AC (and the deck has been on the whole time I was shoppin.)

Seems more convenient than rigging a bunch of switches or a turbo timer

what i was planning on doing was hooking up a relay from my remote start/alarm's output channels that stays on after activating to turn on the radio. that way i could either remote start my car and the car and radio will be running by the time i get to it, or i can just activate the radio to turn on so that its booted up by the time i get to the car.

oh and ive had the same viper remote start alarm for 4 years without a single issue. if you always have had problems id suggest a better installer. most of the time its the install that causes problems.

Any kind of timer that keeps the radio on or turns it on early will not work. Having the radio on and booted up before the engine is running is a waste, as cranking on the starter will cut the power to the radio so you will end up having to wait anyway.

My guess would be to either leave the car running or get a remote starter so you can start it up ahead of time.

keep in mind though that some remote starters wont turn on the radio when the car is started. i had a Viper alarm/rs and the unit only turned on when i physically turned the key

Any kind of timer that keeps the radio on or turns it on early will not work. Having the radio on and booted up before the engine is running is a waste, as cranking on the starter will cut the power to the radio so you will end up having to wait anyway.

 

My guess would be to either leave the car running or get a remote starter so you can start it up ahead of time.

not unless you wire it up to a constant power source that will not cut out during crank. ive done it before with my truck. the radio never cut out while cranking.

^ I guess it depends on how much amps the starter pulls versus how many amps the battery can put out. I've had electronics wired directly to my battery in my previous Honda as well as my brother's Celica, and they always powered down when the starter was cranked... I guess it just depends on the vehicle, really.

yeah true....that was in my 98 f150. my mustang is the same way, depends on the battery and starter like you said.

It is possible to have the radio going during remote start, just have the installer power up that extra accessory at the ignition harness.

Energizing the remote start while the key is still on will eliminate the need to restart the vehicle, it will just stay running when you pull the key out.

Any kind of timer that keeps the radio on or turns it on early will not work. Having the radio on and booted up before the engine is running is a waste, as cranking on the starter will cut the power to the radio so you will end up having to wait anyway.

 

My guess would be to either leave the car running or get a remote starter so you can start it up ahead of time.

Most newer cars dont do this. I have an 04 GTO and even with a big V8 my radio stays on the entire time.

I have also had 7 turbo eclipses, and can tell you the apexi turbo timer is a small hide away box and the control "stick" is about the size of a sharpie.

Having the radio on and booted up before the engine is running is a waste, as cranking on the starter will cut the power to the radio so you will end up having to wait anyway.

I think the F series is immune to this, as mine survives crank, even though my old head unit didn't.

It's not too hard (or expensive) to make a DC-DC converter that outputs 12v for input voltages between 6v and 30v (I used one in a CarPC), so this may be what Pioneer has done . Remember that power isn't cut during crank, but the voltage drops very low (8-9v), which isn't enough to run most head units - the DC-DC converter solves this

FWIW: mine cuts out during crank

This need to be addressed natively by Pioneer. While testing the unit, or coming up with the prototype the should have realized that for example, people stop to drop-off kids to school, for say 10m, or stop at the gas station for 5m. So they should put the unit in a some sort of stand-by or "fast-recovery" mode for the first say 15-30m and THEN the unit shuts-down, instead of repeating the whole start-up process every time.

The unit is based on WinCE, and it's basically a mini-pc and should have this type of capability.

just my 2C.

--sav

...they should put the unit in a some sort of stand-by or "fast-recovery" mode for the first say 15-30m and THEN the unit shuts-down, instead of repeating the whole start-up process every time...

I wholeheartedly agree. There's really not even a need to go into a standby mode or hibernation. Simply turning off the screen and audio would suffice. The backlight is probably the largest power draw in the system. The CPU and fan should draw very little current during this "wait" mode, so there's no issue with draining the battery. Also, this mode could easily be user-selectable, so those who prefer a complete reboot every time (although I doubt anyone would want that) could just disable it.

-Eric

FWIW: mine cuts out during crank

That's dependent on the model of vehicle you have.

The radio starts when I turn the key to the accessory position, if I then start it, it's doesn't reboot. It'll still continue the boot process.

Found this in the registry.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

[HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power]

"SupportPowerButtonRelease"=dword:00000000

"SystemPriority256"=dword:000000f9

"SystemIdleTimerResetEvent"="PowerManager/SystemIdleTimerReset"

"ExtPowerOff"=dword:00000000

"BattPowerOff"=dword:000000b4

"DisableGwesPowerOff"=dword:00000001

Value "BattPowerOff" determines the seconds the device will be suspended on battery power (180 standing for 3 minutes), and value "ExtPowerOff" determines the seconds if on AC power (0 meaning no sleeping on AC).

Now we need to know which of the two regs BattPowerOff, or ExtPowerOff is the one that will put it into suspend when the car is turned off, but the unit is still receiving power through the constant power line.

So if someone edits this reg to read something like

"BattPowerOff"=dword:000????? (equivalent of 24hrs)

Test it.

Then try

"ExtPowerOff"=dword:000????? (equivalent of 24hrs)

and see if either of those lets the unit go down into standby when the car is turned off.

Maybe someone can try this? Considering I don't have one, but am just looking at this reg from the other thread where a guy posted it

My guess is that the amount is in hexadecimal, the default "b4" meaning 180. Now... what does the 180 mean? 3 minutes? Can't be... I can turn off the ACC power for less than 1 second and turn it back on and it restarts...

My guess is that the amount is in hexadecimal, the default "b4" meaning 180. Now... what does the 180 mean? 3 minutes? Can't be... I can turn off the ACC power for less than 1 second and turn it back on and it restarts...

The 180 might be 180ms (0.18 seconds), so it might be worth trying a larger value...

-Eric

Here's an explanation of those settings:

http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/aa910462.aspx

Since it has no internal battery, BattPowerOff likely will do nothing. I'm pretty sure the AVIC thinks it's on "AC" power all the time.

Changing ExtPowerOff might allow it to go into sleep mode, but sleeping while the ignition is turned on would be useless.

It must have a way from distinguishing between the constant v12+ line and the remote v12 line. When the remote line comes on, the unit powers on, even though it's already receiving power from the constant. So my guess is the battery power and the external power from the settings (within the reg) refer to these two power sources (constant, and remote). And have nothing to do with a physical internal battery (like a cell phone).

It's worth a try right? Anyone willing to test this?

# GWES suspend management can be disabled by setting HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Control\Power\DisableGwesPowerOff to a nonzero value.

# Disabling GWES suspend management causes attempts to set the GWES time-out values using SystemParametersInfo to fail with ERROR_RESOURCE_DISABLED. This affects the SPI_SETBATTERYIDLETIMEOUT, SPI_SETEXTERNALIDLETIMEOUT, SPI_SETWAKEUPIDLETIMEOUT parameters. The SPI_GETBATTERYIDLETIMEOUT, SPI_GETEXTERNALIDLETIMEOUT, SPI_GETWAKEUPIDLETIMEOUT parameters will all read 0.

Hmm this is interesting, maybe this is important too?

Maybe we need to set the "DisableGwesPowerOff" to 0

You should be able to make those registry changes using a registry editor for either Pocket PC or Handheld PC.