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Parts for fixing Slide/Flip-Up Problems

By Concept · Aug 28, 2006in Problems/Troubleshooting💬 56 posts👁️ 82,780 views
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Posted Aug 28, 2006 · 19:32 UTC#1
I wanted to post this to help everyone out who's having (or will have) issues with their AVIC-N1/2/3 not sliding out or getting stuck or not flipping up.

I just recently ran into these problems and from reading several different forums, this is a VERY common problem with these units. After a lot of research and different contacts, I was able to get the correct part numbers to order from Pioneer (and avoid spending $200+ to have Pioneer repair it for me).

Screen Slide In/Out Problem
This is the most common problem. Your screen may be retracting and gets stuck with about an inch or so sticking out. You can then force it to come out by hitting the open button and physically pulling it out. This problem is due to the "flex" ribbon cable becoming cracked on the portions that it bends everytime the screen goes in and out.

Order part number GXX1257 from Pioneer ($38.60):
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/par ... um=GXX1257

It comes with a new flex cable with is more flexible than the original and has thinner contacts (which I guess is one of the reasons that it is able to bend easier without cracking). It also comes with a replacement metal shield that the cable sticks to, plastic slide piece to keep the cable from rubbing against one of the PC boards and a small adhesive piece to reinforce a portion of the cable to keep it from cracking within the LCD housing.

You can follow amp3d's tutorial for taking the unit apart (to an extent... http://www.eatmorepork.ca/modules.php?n ... wtopic&p=5). You can probably figure out how to take apart the rest of the unit on your own if you're a little electronically inclined. If you have any specific questions, just reply to this post and I'll do what I can to help.

Screen slides out, but doesn't flip up...
Now, this problem is typically due to ignorance (I'm very guilty of this...that's why now I know...and knowing is half the battle!).

When I first took the unit apart, I thought the reason the screen was stuck was because of a bad motor or something stuck on the gears or tracks. So once I had the unit apart I pulled the screen completely off the tracks. BIG mistake! This caused a tiny spring switch to break off without me even knowing. Here's a pic:

User image

This switch is what tells the unit if the screen is completely out so that it can then flip the screen up. With the switch broken, it thinks that the screen is completely retracted the whole time and will never engage the second motor to make it flip up.

If you made this mistake, go ahead and order part number CSN1052 from Pioneer ($3.03):
http://parts.pioneerelectronics.com/par ... um=CSN1052

You'll have to have a little soldering skills to replace this part. Once you have the unit taken apart, you can access the PC board that the switch sits on. You'll see it near the screen tracks. Just compare to the photo above and you'll find it.

Just remove the single screw to release the PCB and pull the wires all the way out until you get to the plug that's holding the wires down. Be careful with this plug because it's in there really tight. What I did to get it out was take a tiny flat-head screwdriver and carefully pry the plug up from the bottom. It'll eventually pop out.

Use a low wattage soldering iron (I used 15W...I think you can still use 30W and be safe). Heat up the 4 points to release the old switch. Then just line up the new switch to the 4 points and heat each one to solder it in. Reassemble everything and test it out. Again, if you have any specific questions, just reply to this post and I'll do what I can to help you out.


I really hope this write-up helps people out, because I know the hassle that I went through to find what I needed and I would've loved to have all of this information right from the start.

MODs: It would be cool to have this as a sticky to help others out...especially those who *forget* to use the search features! :wink:
Posted Aug 28, 2006 · 23:37 UTC#2
Great Post. Stickied! :D
Posted Sep 04, 2006 · 16:21 UTC#3
Can you show a pic. where the flex cable goes??? I'm assuming do not pull out the screen once you open the unit. Second, does the service kit have instructions to replace the flex cable?

Damm my screen got stuck yetersday and now I left my flap in manaul. I manually pulled it out and let it flipped.

Please help.. I'm disappointed how Pioneer's units are built this poor.

Thanks!!! :oops:
Posted Sep 04, 2006 · 20:19 UTC#4
In amp3d's wire-mod tutorial, there's a picture of the unit taken apart and you can see the flex cable (I've attached the image below):

User image

Again, DO NOT pull the screen all the way out of it's tracks...you'll end up breaking the spring switch. And no, the Pioneer parts do not come with any instructions. I'm surprised that they built the units with a diffective part like the ribbon cable. From what I've read, people who have replaced the cable with the new one listed in my previous post, have no had any more problems with their cables cracking. Hopefully, it'll remain this reliable, but I still set my flap to "manual" so that there's less stress on the cable and hopefully last much longer.

Hope this helps.
Posted Sep 06, 2006 · 00:28 UTC#5
Thank You..
I'm waiting for my part to come.. .
Thanks again.. Damm Pioneer defective cable. But I know this issue will occur anytime. I have mine on auto flap all the time. I only had the unit for a year..

Thanks!
Posted Sep 26, 2006 · 11:13 UTC#6
Has anyone been able to successfully accomplished this fix?
Posted Sep 29, 2006 · 11:39 UTC#7
I have the unit apart. How do you release the ribbon off of the screen? I know it was said not to let the screen all the way out. But the screen does not move to be able to get the ribbon off the screen.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 · 12:07 UTC#8
Dalt10 said:
I have the unit apart. How do you release the ribbon off of the screen? I know it was said not to let the screen all the way out. But the screen does not move to be able to get the ribbon off the screen.


I can't remember off the top of my head right now. Can you post some pics of your unit apart and then I can tell you what to do next. Since my spring switch was broken, I had my screen all the way off the tracks and so just replaced the ribbon while it was apart from the tracks. I *believe* you can still do it with the screen still on the tracks, but I could be wrong. Again, pics would def. help to walk you through this.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 · 13:31 UTC#9
I am at work and don't have my camera. I'll have to get some pics this evening. Looking at the unit apart the screen/panel it is as if it is all the way in. So you can't see the back to plug in the new ribbon in. I didn't want to take it apart and break or lose the spring that has been mentioned. I assume there is a way to release the screen to slide out enough to hook up the ribbon. I tried to slide the screen as if it was coming out of the unit and it does not move.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 · 13:55 UTC#10
You can slide it out manually as if it was opening on its own, but just make sure you didnt remove the two little black retainer clips (they're held on by tiny little phillips head screws). This will stop the screen from coming off the tracks and breaking the switch. It's tough to move the screen manually...you gotta give it a little muscle to get those gears moving, but it will.

If you don't want to force it, you could always remove the metal panel that hides all of the gears and motors and then remove the single screw that holds one of the motors in place. This way the screen will slide easily without any friction from the motor.

Whatever you decide to do, just do it carefully :wink:

I'll be around the computer tonight in case you need any help.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 · 14:07 UTC#11
Tried to pull out manually but won't budge. I took the metal cover off and am looking for the screw to take out for the motor.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 · 14:18 UTC#12
Dalt10 said:
Tried to pull out manually but won't budge. I took the metal cover off and am looking for the screw to take out for the motor.


You should see a little screw near the gear head of the motor. It holds a little metal plate that's attached to the motor. Once you remove that screw, the whole motor can be lifted up with only the thin power cables attached.
Posted Sep 29, 2006 · 18:57 UTC#13
Got it back together. I'm going to put the stereo back in this weekend. Hope it works. Thanks for all your help. I'll let you know how it goes.
Posted Oct 01, 2006 · 14:21 UTC#14
Got it back in and it works. At first it wouldn't come out. But after turning it off and on a few times it started working. It got stuck a few times but now it works. Thanks for the help.
Posted Oct 01, 2006 · 16:18 UTC#15
no problem, man. I'm surprised it got stuck at all after replacing the ribbon. I've never heard of that before. I just hope you dont have a kink in it or anything like that. Oh well...as long as it works, it should be all good!
Posted Nov 21, 2006 · 03:27 UTC#16
I replaced the spring switch the screen came out and on but didnt flip up what could i have done wrong
Posted Nov 21, 2006 · 04:46 UTC#17
law 3 said:
I replaced the spring switch the screen came out and on but didnt flip up what could i have done wrong


Did you make sure you soldered the contact points correctly to the PC board? you might want to double check that to make sure none of the soldering points came loose. That's all that i can think of.
Posted Nov 26, 2006 · 13:59 UTC#18
I have a problem with a blank screen. The screen opens, and the touch keys seem to work (even when the screen is blank), but the screen does not light up as it should. I have read through some of the posts to look for a solution, and the flex cable may be the problem. Can you confirm this?
Posted Nov 26, 2006 · 14:04 UTC#19
Xterra JC said:
I have a problem with a blank screen. The screen opens, and the touch keys seem to work (even when the screen is blank), but the screen does not light up as it should. I have read through some of the posts to look for a solution, and the flex cable may be the problem. Can you confirm this?


Sounds exactly like what happens when that flex cable gets damaged. Hurray pioneer and their crappy flex cables.
Posted Nov 26, 2006 · 15:13 UTC#20
So would this be a fairly easy fix? I see that the repair kit cost only about $38. I am fairly mechanically inclined, and have some working knowledge of electronics. The guy on eBay charges about $120 for this service, which sounds less the Pioneer. However, it looks like I may be able to do it myself for much less. Any thoughts?
Posted Nov 28, 2006 · 00:21 UTC#21
Couldn't say as far as difficulty goes. I have to ship them out, I'm not allowed to even attempt this repair at work. Which I find strange, they have no problems with me stripping the interior of a $100k bmw, but I can't take apart a $2k radio. Hmm?
Posted Nov 28, 2006 · 22:20 UTC#22
cntrylvr79 said:
Couldn't say as far as difficulty goes. I have to ship them out, I'm not allowed to even attempt this repair at work. Which I find strange, they have no problems with me stripping the interior of a $100k bmw, but I can't take apart a $2k radio. Hmm?


Thanks.... I ordered the part from Pioneer, and should get it tomorrow. I opted for the 2nd shipping, since it is driving me nuts not to have my screen function. I will install and report on how it goes. I looked at the instructions, and it does not look too bad. Will update after the repair.
Posted Mar 07, 2007 · 19:03 UTC#24
I'm not currently having any issues with my N1. I'm moving it from the car its been installed in for about 3 1/2 years into my new Pilot. I'm considering taking it apart to solder in the jumper bypass.

Here's my question.

If I open it up and solder the jumper, will Pioneer still honor the recall on the ribbon cable if that problem crops up later on?

I don't see any kind of "in warranty" qualifier on their web site. Since my N1 is way out of warranty the modification I want to do shouldn't have any effect on the ribbon cable, but I'm worried that if I do any kind of modification at all to the unit they may blame the failure of the cable (if it ever fails) on the fact that I've taken it apart myself and then refuse to replace the cable.
Posted Mar 12, 2007 · 03:02 UTC#25
My AVIC-N2 this past week started to power down and reset a few times while driving.

Then suddenly Friday, when I would start the car, the unit would show the blue power lights as it normally would, extend the screen, flip up and then shut down all lights off. The unit would respond by cylcing through a power shutdown, startup when I pressed the reset button.
Same if I removed and replaced the removable face plate.

Is this due to bad flex cable?
Will they fix free it since I bypassed it?
What are the chances of me fixing it myself? Where to get the part?
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