He's referring to spare harness that your not using just lying around the house. Get a wire from somewhere and follow the bypass instructions.

VBLUE42, I truly appreciate your responses, but I am just not getting it, what a dope I am

So is the end result to have 'a' wire from that connector grounded, any wire, does not matter which one? So I can use the Rear Monitor Output Video RCA wire???

Can I just add a wire to that connection point without popping any of the other wires out and follow the directions listed above to make this work? I have another harness I can probably scavenge one of those metal pins from.

if this wire being put in place does not go back to the radio????? How can putting a pin in the prescribed location and grounding it, cause any change to the radio if the wire attached to the pin does not have a connection to the radio?

 

Who said it doesn't go back to the radio? Just use another wire and follow the directions in the instructions.

So where does the wire that Scpinto is going to scavenge from a different harness to add to the harness he IS going to use get wired to on the radio

Any wire will work except the RCA wires. Also most antenna amps only amplify the AM signal. If you never use AM, you might want to think about using the antenna turn on wire. I would connect the antenna and not connect the turn on wire and see what happens.

So where does the wire that Scpinto is going to scavenge from a different harness to add to the harness he IS going to use get wired to on the radio

What??? Dude! Stop making this harder then it is. Just find a wire or don't do the bypass.

If the search for another harness is not available to you...you could always order another harness from Pioneer and rob a wire from it...At least that way you can grab any of the colored wires and it will have the proper pin..

What scares me most about the people who have this much trouble doing such a simple procedure is that they are doing it so they can watch video while they are driving.

What scares me most about the people who have this much trouble doing such a simple procedure is that they are doing it so they can watch video while they are driving.

Yeah it is pretty scary if you look at it that way.

What scares me most about the people who have this much trouble doing such a simple procedure is that they are doing it so they can watch video while they are driving.

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It's nice to know there are such friendly and supportive people on this board. Glad I came here....

Seriously folks, I started off my post with the fact that I am no car audio expert, and was seeking help in understanding how to make the bypass work.

I watched the video that hairfullofmetal suggested and that cleared things up completely for me. I now understand.

It should be stated, for dopes like me, that the end results is to ground the empty slot (don't know the pin location#) next to the yellow/black mute wire.

Just pull one of the speaker wires from the harness and plug it into the whole. If it fits your good to go.

Like VBlue said... acquire the cable/wire... and do the bypass as mentioned in these forums...

We all, would love to help you out... But with your issues.... nobody can help you out other than yourself....

You COULD solder your own wire to that pin... but we don't know that you're capable of that.... You COULD also find a Pioneer wiring harness on the webz.... again...we have no idea if you're capable of it....

The instructions have been laid out... it's up to you to figure out how you're going to accomplish it....

It's as easy as bringing a ground to that certain pin... how you go about it????? That's in your corner...

What scares me most about the people who have this much trouble doing such a simple procedure is that they are doing it so they can watch video while they are driving.

 

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lol that's actually the speed of my home connection.

Hello,

I am a newbie who installed the AVICX-920BT in my 2008 Honda Civic Hybrid, and everything works well including the bypass. However, I have a question - where is the Speed sensor wire - the pink wire on the AVIC is supposed to be connected to the speed sensor. I actually used a harness from Scosche to first connect to the vehicle harness and then connected the AVIC to the Scosche harness. It does have a pink wire - is this the speed sensor?

Thanks.

Yes..The pink wire coming from the Pioneer harness is the connection spot to tap into your VSS wire in the car, however, the location and color of the VSS wire for everyone's car is different. I have a '98 Toyota 4-Runner, and mine was a green/orange wire located behind my glovebox way up underneath the dashboard on a 22-pin connector. Not the easiest wire to get to and it took several calls to Crutchfield Tech Support to help me find it. To boot, it was snake-bundled in electrical tape inside plastic flex tubing, so had to do some work just to free up enough of the bundle to work with the VSS wire.

The VSS wire is normally part of a gang bundle pin connector plugged into the main computer of the car. It sends a voltage pulse back to the instruments (Speedometer) and/or ABS controllers in your vehicle and translates the rotation speed of your tires. In the case of the "Z" and "X" head units with Navigation, it used to be that this wire connection for the head unit was not a necessity, but with the newer NAV units from Pioneer, that has changed. If you don't connect it, you will receive some error outputs from the head unit on the NAV module, and it will not translate proper speed outputs for arrival times or compensate for NAV movement if you lose satellite signal (Bridge/Tunnel).

In my case, once the wire was finally located, the obvious problem at that point was that I clearly couldn't connect the the pink wire to it because its only 6" long. I opted to do the bypass for the DVD video so I cut the green parking break wire since I didn't need all of it. I took the spare green wire and crimped it to the short pink wire...ran the wire to where I needed it and used the "red" tap connector already on the green wire to connect it to the speed sensor wire.

**Note - Once I could get a good grip on the green/orange VSS Wire, I CAREFULLY used a blade to remove some of the wire sheath on the VSS wire so it would make a good clean tap.

What I recommend you do is contact your Dealer to help you find the location of the VSS wire in your car so you know what your doing before you do anything. They have schematics and can give you the exact location and color. At that point, you can make your own decisions as to whether or not you wanna try and attempt it yourself or pay someone to make the connection for you. You also may be faced with the fact that the "pink" wire is too short to reach and you will need some spare low-voltage wire to extend the pink wire itself. In the beginning, I actually considered paying an installer to make this connection, but when I knew where I had to go and if I had the ability, it wasn't a hard connection to make in the end.

The pink wire for me did not attach to the factory harness for my truck, but is a direct connection to the VSS wire. Good luck!!

Peace ~ HFoM

HFoM,

Thanks for the info and tips - yes the pink wire is too short, so I will need to extend it. I do have the parking brake bypass (green wire) left from the portion I cut so I will follow your suggestion. Do you know offhand if the color and location of the VSS wire changes for same car model? I managed to find the color and location for the 7th generation Civic (mine is 8th gen.) from another forum, and can use it if the location/color are the same. Thanks again.

VK26Y,

I do not know if that is the case in your vehicle, especially when you are talking about "generations". I just told Crutchfield that it was a '98 Toyota 4Runner. He didn't follow that up with "Do you know what generation it is?" .... I wish I could tell you yes or no, so my only suggestion is to be absolutely sure before you commit to tapping it. My gut tells me that you are probably fine as long as the color and location on the pin connector are the same. Highly doubtful Honda made major changes to that as the manufacturing generations went up. BUT I would rather be safe than sorry. I am sure if you call your local Honda Dealer parts/service desk, they have all those schematics in their system and can confirm or deny. Would be a total pain in the ass to tap into it, and find out afterwards that you got the wrong wire.

I will say this though, you know you got it right if you go into "Settings/Navi Settings/Connection Status" and as you start moving, you will see the Speed Pulse Indicator Bar & Pulse Count start going up. I do not know what its like for every vehicle, but my numbers went up like this:

The Speed Pulse number fluctuates as you accelerate or decelerate, so I am using ranges here..

5-10 mph = 0-1 SP

15-30 mph = 2-3 SP

35-40 mph = 4-8 SP

45-65 mph = 9-13 SP

I just want you to feel "okay" about what you are seeing once you get it all hooked up. I confirmed that these SP numbers are in the range of what you would normally see based on the feedback from the car. After that, The Speed Pulse Count for the Navi 3D Calibration Status will being to tally properly too. If you have any more questions..don't hesitate to ask..I'll help as much as I can. Love to hear about your outcome!! Good Luck!!

Peace ~ HFoM

So I finally got this bypass to work tonight, however now my sub for some reason doesn't work. It worked before messing with the bypass, but now it doesn't. I have an 06 Mustang w/ the stock speakers 2 front and rear and a sub in the trunk, all part of the shaker 1000 setup. Anyone know what I might have done? I have an audio input red/white plugged into a red/white wire labled RSE and then the sub woofer output plugged in as well. Any ideas?

Clearly you messed something up while trying to correct the bypass. Check your connections.

The only connection I have plugged in is the sub output to the sub output from my car. I'm not using any other cables from the pioneer RCA connector. What am I missing? I'm pretty sure nothing else was plugged in when I unhooked everything.

If you moved the head unit from its mounting you could have affected another connection. Check all of your connections.

So I've tried numerous times now to get the bypass to work on my Z110 HU. I've grounded the parking brake wire and mute wire (moved one spot over in the harness) to the ground wire of the wiring harness which did not work. I've also grounded those two wires directly to the frame of the car through a stud that other components of the car are grounded to (which also did not work). I keep getting the msg that the parking brake is not properly connected. I soldered all the wires to make sure there was a good connection. I made sure the pin in the harness is in all the way and that it is making good contact w/ the pin of the HU. I'm at wits end here. The car is a Mercedes SLK 280. I'm using a Connects2 harness that allows the remote controls from the steering to still be functional. There is a CanBus computer that controls the parking brake, speed signal, accessory 12v, illumination, and so on. Obviously, I didn't connect the parking brake wire from the HU to the corresponding wire on the Connects2 harness since it is currently connected to ground. But is it possible that the CanBus is somehow creating an issue that does not allow the bypass to work correctly? Or is it possible that this HU (which was refurbished) is somehow incapable of being bypassed due to something that Pioneer may have done in the refurbish process? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Does the firmware on the unit need to be the latest version for the bypass to work? This HU is awesome, but I don't know that I can live w/o the ability to program the navi while driving if I can't get this bypass to work. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Is it possible that the CanBus is somehow creating an issue that does not allow the bypass to work correctly? NO

Or is it possible that this HU (which was refurbished) is somehow incapable of being bypassed due to something that Pioneer may have done in the refurbish process? NO

Does the firmware on the unit need to be the latest version for the bypass to work? NO

The only thing that will cause the parking brake error msg is the mute wire:

1. Not in the correct pin location.

2. Not grounded to the vehicle correctly.

3. Pin not seated completely in the connector.

Check and recheck.

mrbeefy, from the bottom of my heart, thank you for posting these pictures.

This needs to be part of the first post, seriously.

Step 1, push in small side tab

Step 2, lift up top section above the yellow wire

Step 3, insert a staple or paperclip into one of the slots in the top section to keep it open

Step 4, with needlenose, insert straightened staple into the bottom hold under the wire until it seats (maybe 1/2 inch)

Step 5, pull out yellow wire. It will come out with very little force.

Step 6, insert wire into new hole and push till it clicks.

Step 7, remove staples or paperclips and push the top section back into place.

I used a single regular paper staple and a single regular small paper clip.

looks simple