INFORMATION ON PIN CONNECTORS THAT FIT THE WHITE AVIC-Z120BT / Z110BT HARNESS:

Maybe you broke a pin, maybe you want to keep your mute wire and don't want to disable an RCA port?

You need:

Molex Part# 08-70-1040 Pin Connector (AKA: Mini Pin Terminal)

1 piece of light gauge wire

Tool: Relatively Fine tip Needle Nose Pliers

Read / Print / Understand the Bypass Instructions, especially the part on how to PARTLY lift the cap that loosens the pin connectors in the harness and to understand which hole is the one you need to fill with a pin and connect to ground.

STEPS:

Strip a tiny piece of insulation off the wire. The middle set of crimp tabs should be able to wrap around the wire. The edge / outer set of crimp tabs should be able to wrap around insulation. You need to have the edge of the insulation in between those two sets of tabs to make a good sturdy terminal.

Twist the wires together tightly.

Crimp the shorter middle set of tabs first onto the wires. They should bend over and onto the wires. Press them tight with the pliers. You may need to gently squeeze the sides where the tab folded over to make the connector skinny enough to fit in the harness hole.

Crimp the taller tabs second over and onto the insulation of the wire. I used a little bit of a twist/roll technique to get the metal to wrap around the insulation. Once one tab has been pressed down over the insulation, then press the other tab over it. Do not overtighten this crimp. You want it to be snug but not squash the insulation.

Now you will need to squeeze the sides of this last crimp to make it skinny enough to fit in the White harness hole. I had to squeeze down on the top of the crimp too after making it tighter. Just be careful: Don't "overwork" the tabs otherwise they'll break from being bent too much.

It really isn't hard, but there is a technique to it. If I had a better video camera I would just shoot a video for you so you could see it.

Loosen the cap on the harness that holds the pins in place. Be careful to not pull the cap all the way out. You just want it to lift up a little bit. (I found that it was easier to lift the cap if I pushed in on the hole on the side of the harness connector. That released the clip a little bit and I was able to push it up from there.) Read the Bypass Sticky for more details on this cap if you don't know what I am talking about.

Slide the completed pin terminal w/ wire into the Bypass hole immediately next to the original location of the Mute wire.

Check the front of the connector to make sure you can see the pin terminal flush with the front of the connector to verify it is inserted all the way.

Press the cap back down to firmly lock the pin terminals back in place.

Finally, press the Bypass wire you just added into the socket with some force and take some electrical tape and tape the wire to one of its neighbors. This adds rigidity to the wire and keeps it held in place. (I did not verify that the pin was the same length as the original pins... I only verified that it was the correct size to fit the pins on the unit.

Don't forget that you still have to ground the light green parking break wire too.

Done.

PLEASE NOTE: I am OUT of pin terminals at this point. The last one is being sold today. I am thinking of maybe ordering some more terminals. Just not sure if it is worth it at this point. I'll leave the information below just in case and update this post if I decide to get more.

I USED TO have some more of these pin terminals if you want some. $3.50 should cover me mailing 3 pin terminals to you. (That way you could practice / mess up twice and still have a third terminal to do it. I did it right the first time so it really isn't hard, but they are very small so I could see someone messing up on accident. If your gentle and take your time, it is easy.)

$5 and I'll attach a single pin terminal to both sides of a short wire and mail the completed wire to you. Then you can just solder onto the wire after inserting the pin terminal. If you get it into the connector on the first try, then just trim the other end off so you can solder to it. Just be gentle and you won't break the terminal.

Or, you can buy your own set of terminals, since I've included the part number above. JameCo had a small minimum order of $10. Most places have huge minimum quantities or large minimum orders.

What's that, you want a picture of the completed pin? Sorry, two problems with that. 1> My camera doesn't focus real well on super tiny things very close up. I can work around that a bit, but the 2nd problem: 2> The pin is already installed in my harness and I'm not willing to pull it back out. *grins*... but I am willing to put a pin onto another piece of wire and take a photo of that in a few days after I finish a few other small projects. Happy now? *grins*

YOU CAN STOP READING HERE UNLESS YOU WANT TO SEE HOW I STUMBLED ACROSS THIS:

I discovered this pin would work in this harness a little by accident. I had bought some small Molex 2-pin connectors and mini pin terminals to go inside the connectors so I could modify a couple battery packs that I had. The batteries were compatible with my Home Alarm system, but the connectors were all wrong. It took me a while, but I finally figured out what kind of connector and pin terminals in the connector the damn things took, so I bought some from JameCo. (They only had a $10 minimum order... so I bought 30 connectors, 30 Terminals, and 20 of the related sockets for $17 after shipping. The price per terminal pin is less than 20 cents a piece, except that I had to buy a bunch of them. So you are wondering why I am asking for $3.00 for essentially 60 cents worth of pins. Well, last time I checked a stamp was almost 50 cents. Paypal charges a 40 cent fee... so there is buck gone already. Call it shipping and handling.)

My Amp Turn-On harness adapter/module has a Mute wire, so I went ahead and hooked that up. I am using most of the RCA connectors and didn't want to steal one of the remaining RCA connector pins to do the Bypass, so I looked around. I found that thread where that guy just stuffed some wire in the hole and grounded that. I was prepared to do that, but I remembered these pin terminals that I had so I pulled on out. I compared it to the harness and the size was a match. I was worried about the length a little bit, but decided to go for broke. I used some needlenose pliers to press the pin terminal onto one of the actual pins of the Head Unit. It was tight, but it fit perfectly. I spread the clips of the pin terminal a tiny bit and it was too loose, so I tightened them back up a little bit and it was perfect. It clamped onto the pin with enough force to make connection but still slid on and off. So, I wired it up as described above, and the pin terminal seated beautifully into the harness. I taped the Bypass wire to the wire next to it to add some rigidity and to keep the pin held forward in case the pin was a little shorter than the other ones in the harness. The harness seated smoothly the very first time and the Bypass works great.

I've had a couple people take me up on this so far. Haven't heard back from them so I am assuming the pins w/ wires are either still in the mail or hopefully they got them and no news is good news?

If you got one of these from me, pm me or post back and let me know how it worked out for ya.

i read your post an went and bought the pins and the crimper, haven't tried it in the radio yet but it looks like it will work, the pins are shorter then the ones that come out of the pioneer connector but it looks like the important piece of it is the same, so now i have 10 pins/wires that are professionally crimped waiting to go lol (i bought 10 just incase i messed up or need an extras) i tell you what, the crimper is amazing, makes for some real nice connectors

i read your post an went and bought the pins and the crimper, haven't tried it in the radio yet but it looks like it will work, the pins are shorter then the ones that come out of the pioneer connector but it looks like the important piece of it is the same, so now i have 10 pins/wires that are professionally crimped waiting to go lol (i bought 10 just incase i messed up or need an extras) i tell you what, the crimper is amazing, makes for some real nice connectors

Thank you very much for the feedback! Yep, in my instructions I mention that after you fully install the new wire / pin terminal that you should put some positive pressure on it and tape it to another wire. This will keep the pin terminal from moving in the channel because yes, it is shorter.

I bought the molex 2-pin connectors (male and female) and the pin terminals. I didn't buy a crimper. I was able to crimp the connector with a pair of needle nose pliers.

I'm very glad that the information here inspired someone to go off and try it on their own. Awesome!

i read your post an went and bought the pins and the crimper, haven't tried it in the radio yet but it looks like it will work, the pins are shorter then the ones that come out of the pioneer connector but it looks like the important piece of it is the same, so now i have 10 pins/wires that are professionally crimped waiting to go lol (i bought 10 just incase i messed up or need an extras) i tell you what, the crimper is amazing, makes for some real nice connectors

What was the part number for the crimp tool?

Manufacturer Part No: 63811-5200

Newark Part No: 07M7214

Extended Price: $246.40

What was the part number for the crimp tool?

Since I haven't seen anyone post up any results after using any of the pins from Quarky42 I figured I would vouch for him. I pm'ed him and he replied back in less than a few hours. We made the transaction and a few days later my bypass pin arrived. I had him fab up a pin on each side with some wiring in between just in case I made a mistake the first time or accidentally broke a pin. The pin is pretty small compared to the pin you would have to cut and pull out of the original harness but with a bit of messing around I got the pin to slide to the very back of the harness and sit properly.

I extended the bypass wire and connected it to the green parking brake wire and to the black ground wire and since my factory harness already attaches to ground there was no need to ground those 3 wires together to any part of the chassis which saves time and made the install cleaner and easier. I fired up the head unit and took it for a spin. Everything worked out perfectly on the first shot.

Basically if you don't want to risk ruining your pioneer harness then hit up Quarky42 and get yourself a bypass pin. Thanks for the smooth transaction and hopefully this will help bring you some more business.

Manufacturer Part No: 63811-5200

Newark Part No: 07M7214

Extended Price: $246.40

You are obviously serious about your crimps. I think I will send quarky42 a PM.

I have fooled around with this type of connector and I believe I could probably extract the pin without cutting the plug but what if I decide to send the HU back.

I believe I could probably extract the pin without cutting the plug but what if I decide to send the HU back.

Send back as in return (RMA)? Or send in for repairs? If you are thinking of returning cause you don't like it, don't worry about it. They'll never notice a wire in the wrong socket. That is unless you cut it out. Then you'll have to pay for another power harness.

If you need to return for warrantee service, then don't send your harness. They can't require you to rip apart your wiring. Or, if that doesn't fly, buy another cable. And once it is out of warrantee, it's none of their business how you have it wired.

True.

I PMed Quarky42 a few days ago hopefully I will have an extra pin soon. I had to send my OS-4 to PAC to flash to 1.2.3.8b and it will take a few days. The vendor said they had the latest firmware but it turned out to be v 1.2.3.8. The "b" adds seat memory chimes and I have those so I elected to have PAC reflash since the tech was kind enough to offer.

True.

I PMed Quarky42 a few days ago hopefully I will have an extra pin soon. I had to send my OS-4 to PAC to flash to 1.2.3.8b and it will take a few days. The vendor said they had the latest firmware but it turned out to be v 1.2.3.8. The "b" adds seat memory chimes and I have those so I elected to have PAC reflash since the tech was kind enough to offer.

yep, the pin / wire is in the mail. you should have it soon.

Since I haven't seen anyone post up any results after using any of the pins from Quarky42 I figured I would vouch for him. I pm'ed him and he replied back in less than a few hours. We made the transaction and a few days later my bypass pin arrived. I had him fab up a pin on each side with some wiring in between just in case I made a mistake the first time or accidentally broke a pin. The pin is pretty small compared to the pin you would have to cut and pull out of the original harness but with a bit of messing around I got the pin to slide to the very back of the harness and sit properly.

 

I extended the bypass wire and connected it to the green parking brake wire and to the black ground wire and since my factory harness already attaches to ground there was no need to ground those 3 wires together to any part of the chassis which saves time and made the install cleaner and easier. I fired up the head unit and took it for a spin. Everything worked out perfectly on the first shot.

 

Basically if you don't want to risk ruining your pioneer harness then hit up Quarky42 and get yourself a bypass pin. Thanks for the smooth transaction and hopefully this will help bring you some more business.

Thanks for confirming it worked. Glad to hear it. I have only heard of one problem so far with the pin not going in smoothly (out of about 6 folks) and I think it had to do with loosening up the cap on the white connector and gently pushing the pin in place with the cap loose enough. (This is the same information that came from the Guide for the doing the Bypass.)

This really isn't a business for me. I only make a few dollars per. I do it mainly because I have extra pins on hand from a previous project and I discovered that this worked. I wanted to share it with folks and figured asking for the cost of a beer or two was fair. materials + envelope + postage + paypal fees is about $2 or just under rough estimation. So this isn't a huge money maker or anything, just wanted to contribute something back to the forums.

Also, hopefully people have noticed that I've given them the part numbers that they would need to be able to do this themselves so they don't have to buy one from me. They could do it themselves if they wanted to.

interested in a pin, sent you an email

interested in a pin, sent you an email

Got the message and replied. I have one left. It's yours.

On a side note directed at the rest of the thread: I haven't decided if I am going to buy more pins terminals or not after this last one. Was doing it because I had extra pin terminals on hand. There is a minimum quantity / order size from the vendor and I'd have to sell another, roughly, 20 wires with terminals to make it worth ordering extra pin terminals.

Anyone have a part number or SKU for comparable pins from Fry's Electronics?

If you're still doing the pins, I am interested in one of the wired ones.

I need to keep my mute wire.

I ordered some of these pins and could not get them into the connector. Does anyone have the secret to this.

I ordered some of these pins and could not get them into the connector. Does anyone have the secret to this.

Do you have a Z110/120 or a Z130? Just wondering if you got the correct pins. Since the harness is different on the Z130, I wouln't asssume the pins are the same size. If they are the correct ones, you might try rotating 90 degrees and try again. Keep rotating until you do the full 360.

Are you sure you pulled the cap on the side up far enough (without removing it)? The pins will not go into the connector unless the locking cap is PARTIALLY removed... not pulled out all the way, just lifted to allow the pin to slide into place.

I know you guys are probably bored to death with this topic, so I appologize in advance! lol. But, the Molex Part# 08-70-1040 Pin Connector, are they availabe at radioshack? I've got a Z120bt in an 03 silverado with Onstar (wich you dont need the mute wire for). I destroyed the the pin trying to get it out and am now in search of another pin without buying a new harness.

No, I don't think so. I linked the cheapest place I could find with the smallest minimum order in the original post.

Ok, thanks. Since you seem pretty knowledgable in this area, i have 1 more question. Would it be possible to take a lead off of each side of the actual PB switch, add a diode and splce them together with the Green PB wire?

Has anyone confirmed if this works for the 130? Like a dumbass, I broke the wire for the mute and I'm most likely not going to be able to get it out. I would prefer to not buy a whole new harness if I don't have to.

Has anyone confirmed if this works for the 130? Like a dumbass, I broke the wire for the mute and I'm most likely not going to be able to get it out. I would prefer to not buy a whole new harness if I don't have to.

You still should be able to extract the metal part from the cable connector using the correct technique and a small needle-nose pliers. Then you can just solder the wire back on and insert it into the new position. I think you can even slice the plastic open (with a razor knife) if necesary to remove it.

Don't know if the diode thing will work on a Z130 (or Z120), If it did, we wouldn't be messing with the harness in the 1st place.

You still should be able to extract the metal part from the cable connector using the correct technique and a small needle-nose pliers. Then you can just solder the wire back on and insert it into the new position. I think you can even slice the plastic open (with a razor knife) if necesary to remove it.

 

Don't know if the diode thing will work on a Z130 (or Z120), If it did, we wouldn't be messing with the harness in the 1st place.

I have a pin extractor at work that we use for DB9 and DB25 connectors. Any idea if that would work to release the pin from its holding place?

Kinda looks like this: pin extractor