You maybe exceeding your alternator's output.

You maybe exceeding your alternator's output.

It's not occurring from a lack of power

Being that you're driving a GM, it could very well be...

Your two last post sounds a bit of BS to me..... Ie.... I'm not buying what you're selling....

There's too much info on the net(to actually learn), than for me to buy into your crapcocktion.....

Your work-a-round probably cost less than 2 bucks....wonder how I know?????

You maybe exceeding your alternator's output.

It's not occurring from a lack of power

Being that you're driving a GM, it could very well be...

 

 

Your two last post sounds a bit of BS to me..... Ie.... I'm not buying what you're selling....

There's too much info on the net(to actually learn), than for me to buy into your crapcocktion.....

 

Your work-a-round probably cost less than 2 bucks....wonder how I know?????

Not BS at all, and I couldn't care less if you're buying the fix I am offering, you are free to solve the problem any way you wish. I am telling you, the problem is NOT from a lack of power as discovered by an electrical engineer (I'm going to trust an MIT EE graduate's finding over that of someone I don't know on the internet) and also a twenty year veteran in car audio installation. You can disagree with me all you want, but I know for a fact what exactly was causing my problem which is more than is known by the users who just know that the HIDs have something to do with it. So unless the root of my problem was the complete opposite of the similar problems others had (which is unlikely), the issue I explained prior to this post IS what is causing the 120bt to have the muting issue.

If someone were interested in purchasing the fix, I would run the transaction through my ebay store (100% feedback I'm not willing to risk messing up) and paypal as an assurance to them that I am legitimate and that they are protected should I in some way screw them over or the fix does not work. If that is not enough security, the transaction could be handled by the car audio shop, who would have more to lose than gain by selling the piece.

I'm not looking to screw anyone over, just offering a fix for this issue that doesn't involve messing with the HIDs/their harness, or the factory headlight harnesses, and also costs much less than a new alternator. $20 isn't much to fix a problem with a $1,500 unit.

im having the same exact problem and am interested in knowing what your proclaimed fix involves, i do not want to wire my HID's direct into the factory wiring and much prefer using a relay harness, So if i can retain the relay harness and make this problem go away , i would be open to it.

The problem is the spike of ac power coming from the lights as they turn on creating noise that then messes with the unit. Working with an electrical engineer and veteran car audio installer today, we found a fix that doesn't involve altering or messing with the HIDs, the unit, or harness at all and takes about 60 seconds to do if you have the correct parts. We will be making a number of the fixes both for our audio shop and to sell online for $20.

How can we get this?

How did I know? Let me guess you have them wired straight to the battery with a relayed harness as well right?

Nice one Vblue, I've been checking your vids on youtube about the 120 actually looking at getting one.. I have been out of the pioneer loop for to long.. I had a Z1 and then a Z2 if only the 120 had a HDD.. lol but everything is going bluetooth and such and I just got a new ride gotta put something in there..

I'm having the exact same issue however mine is with my fog lights which are ran through an "oem" harness that is relayed.

I would love to get a better understanding of why the POS relay causes the issue.. after reading so many of these threads i am confident in Vblues findings. My problem now becomes how do i bypass the harness that wires the fog lights. The harness is actually for the fogs not the HID's. It would be the same harness used if i went with standard halogen bulbs.