I just finished installing at X920BT for the second time now and I still have the same problem. I have a 2007 Mustang GT Shaker 500 and X920BT I purchased the PAC C2R-FRD1 so I could use th factory subs but now when I turn up the bass and then cranck the volume at the radio just resets/restarts. If I turn the sub volume down in the HU it does not reset/restart. I thought maybe I had something hooked up incorrectly so I took it to a local shop and he checked my wiring and installed the relay for me and still same results.

Has anyone else using the factory ford subs had this issue and if so how do I resolve it?

it sounds like the amp for the subs is using too much power and the radio is not getting enough, this can be tasted pretty easily, just use a long piece of speaker wire (at least 16awg) and use it to extend the power and ground wires for the avic (yellow and black) to be able to connect directly to the battery to make sure the AVIC is able to get enough power, then see if the problem persist.

Thanks I will give that a try when I get home tonight.

please be sure to post your results, i'm having a similar issue but never considered it was related to the bass. My HU doesnt want to stay on long enought for me to adjust the bass in the settings but I will give it a try tonight, again please let us know what you see w/ the power

Mine comes on and plays forever as long as I don't turn the bass & volume up so I am not sure but I will post the results. PAC Audio told me to replace the C2R-FRD1 so I will have to try and order a new one of those also.

I will try wiring Radio to Battery first tonight just to see.

i have no experence with any pac modules (other than SWI's) but if they are anywhere as bad as the scosche or metra modules, then i have no doubt that it could be a bad module and either voltage or vibrations are setting it off

Ok here is my update!

I have replaced the pac c2r-frd1 with a sorche model and still same results which I bought from a local Audio shop and even had him rewiring the thing from scratch.

I have now replaced the HU with another one and still same results.

I am now at the point of giving up and returning everything!!!

This is killing me because I love the radio but if it will not work with factory speakers & amp it has to go back.

Hope this helps someone else out.

well i would try the trouble shooting steps i mentioned in my first post, because it sound an awful lot to me like the unit is getting power starved, and that should be an easy one to fix if it is.

1loudls I did take it to the local shop and they put in the relay for me because they thought that was the problem.

So would hooking it directly to the battery be for the samething correct?

I still have the unit and the dash is all apart and I am either going to get this unit to work tonight or but the factory unit back in. So your saying hook the yellow and black to the battery directly and try that?

Sheby

Do you have HID headlights and are they on when this happens?

The lights have no affect on it only when I turn the radio & bass up.

If I turn the bass down to like -4 or -5 I can turn the radio up louder before it reboots volume of may 28 or 30.

If I turn the bass up to like +6 I can only turn the radio to maybe 17 before reboot.

When I test I am using one of 2 songs each time to make sure they have the same bass because if the song does not have any real bass in it the radio does not seem to reboot.

Thats not what I asked! Are the lights on when this happens?

The lights have no affect on it at all. It happens with lights on or with lights off and they are not HID lighting.

1loudls I did take it to the local shop and they put in the relay for me because they thought that was the problem.

So would hooking it directly to the battery be for the samething correct?

it depends on where they got power from the relay, if they just grabbed power from somewhere near the radio harness or the fusebox then not really. a relay itself wont do anything but switch power on and off from a trigger source(which the radio already does), you need to rule out a lack of power being the cause of the problem and the only way to do that is to give the radio as much power as it want with its own dedicated power supply (temporary) and then if that is the problem solver, then it needs to be wired in fully

so here we are two weeks later, and it doesn't look like you've even tried the first troubleshooting step i gave you, i cant try to help you, if you wont help yourself.

if that local shop was any good at what they do then they should have been able to figure this out pretty quick, since its doing it with different radios and different harnesses, it is obvious that this problem is environment related (the environment of the radio, IE: the car) troubleshooting steps need to be taken to find out why the radio is shuting off and then it can simply be wired around this

I hooked the the red relay to the battery and radio would not reboot so I disconnect red from the battery and it was strange because the radio did not reboot played for about 10 minutes with bass and volume up.

Even on the wiring diagram from PAC Audio they say to hook the relay into the harness wires but I will try the Yellow and black tonight.

Ok confirmed it last night I hooked the red to the battery and plays fine no restarts. So if I hook the Yellow for the relay to the battery would that fix it?

I was going to do more testing but when I got home the battery in the car was dead so I had to charge it for a few hours and by that time it was bedtime.

Thanks

Shelby

ok that definitely the problem now there is only one thing to figure out if the radio is shutting off or if it is the harness that is shutting off, i would run a new power wire and connect it directly to the radio's yellow wire, then get power from that wire going into the relay, then use the red wire from the harness to trigger the wire and use the output of the relay to the avic's red wire

RELAY

86-ground

85-red wire coming from the aftermarket harness

87a- not used

87 power wire from battery

30-red wire from AVIC

if it still shuts off while hooked up this way then it was the harness that is cutting off and not the radio, the only way to fix this would be to tap terminal 85 into the ACC wire at the ignition switch, you will lose the retained ACC power feature this way (radio stays on until the door is opened)

Ok I confirmed it tonight if I hook the yellow wire to the battery the radio still reboots.

If I hook the red wire to the battery it never reboots so you are correct! TY TY TY TY TY!!

Just one more question I still want the delayed shut off after the key is turned off and if I hook the reds like normal Pac Audio Red to Radio Red and then add another red from the fuse panel that is also switched it does not reboot and it still has the delayed shut off. I will not be blasting it when the key is turned off anyway.

So what would this hurt?

I have an 09 Mustang using the same pac harness and everything is working fine. The only thing that is different is that I have installed a sub woofer in the back. So the amp(apline) that powers that sub is plugged into the sub out on the pioneer, then off of that amp I run rca cable from the alpine pre amp out back up to the front and plug it into the pac harness so that the cars factory amp will still get sound to the front door subs. My only problem is because both amps use the same blue/white wire that switches on the amps when the radio is on I get the pop in the front door subs which the pac harness is suppose to fix and it did until I added the rear amp. So that harness and pioneer combo should work, I'm also thinking bad harness or maybe ground. You did say you got the PAC C2R-FRD1 harness right? which is about 100 dollars give or take. Also the relay you mention I assume is the one to get rid of the popping sound from the subs like what I get. You should not need any relay if your using the PAC C2R-FRD1 harness. The only reason I get the pop is because of the other amp I'm using. Down the road sometime I will replace the factory amp for those front subs. Oh and one other difference is I replaced those front subs with the shelby kicker subs that are made for the mustang, but I don't think that should matter.

Yeah it is the pac c2r-frd1 and it powers the factory subs/amps fine but if I turn the sub woofer up to 6 in the HU and then turn up the volume with a song that has bass the radio reboots unless I get switched power directly from the fuse box or battery. Now I have replaced both the PAC unit and HU and still same results.

While you were responding, I added to my post above,but I'm not sure if it helps. I asked about the relay

I just installed this radio last week and you got me thinking that I hadn't really cranked it with the bass turned all the way up, so I ran out to the car and tested it and all is good. Hope the neibors weren't sleeping.

if I hook the reds like normal Pac Audio Red to Radio Red and then add another red from the fuse panel that is also switched it does not reboot and it still has the delayed shut off.

So what would this hurt?

Also the relay you mention I assume is the one to get rid of the popping sound from the subs like what I get. You should not need any relay if your using the PAC C2R-FRD1 harness. The only reason I get the pop is because of the other amp I'm using.

the point of the relay is not to get rid of the amp popping, the ACC (red wire) output of the module on the harness can only output a very low amount of current, and some radio's need more than the module can output to turn on, the relay is to keep from over powering the module and burning it up (originally the modules did not come with a relay and they where recalled because they usually wouldn't last more than three or four days, and they decided that it was cheaper and easier to just add a relay instead of redesigning the modules)

the reason there is a pop (which the module should take care of) is because aftermarket radios and amps use a 12v signal to turn them on, and the factory ford systems use a 6v turn on signal, with most ford that do not use a module, you need to place a resistor (about 1450-1800 ohms) inline with the amp turn on wire to reduce the voltage and get rid of the pop, if you are still getting a pop i would try to add a resistor inline only with the factory wire, if you put it inline with both turn on wires then the aftermarket amp you have wont get enough voltage and will not turn on.

Thanks for all the help.

Right now I have all the wires just twisted and taped for testing so tonight I am going to make everything final put the radio back in the dash and hope for the best.

What about hooking the wire that normally power the AVIC (yellow wire) to triger the relay (pin 85) and than the relay will be connected to the battery (pin 87) and to the radio with pin 30.

Correct me if I'm wrong but the yellow wire is the one that requires high current !

Like that the PAC signal will be use to triger the relay not at full current and it should maintain the accessory delay since the relay will open at the expiration of the delay and the radio will stop..

Doese this make sense ?