Correct me if I'm wrong but the yellow wire is the one that requires high current !

correct, but...

What about hooking the wire that normally power the AVIC (yellow wire) to triger the relay (pin 85)

Like that the PAC signal will be use to triger the relay not at full current and it should maintain the accessory delay since the relay will open at the expiration of the delay and the radio will stop..

the problem is that the PAC module (for what ever reason) is not able to keep a steady amount of power on its turn on output (red ACC) when the bass is hitting hard. and that why his system is resetting when it is turned up.

the red wire going into the avic is already like a relay trigger wire, as it does not need much current at all to have the AVIC turn on

Is it because too much current flows through the module (via the yellow wire) and than reset the module

In all the test done if the yellow output of the PAC not being used is the red output still droping ?

Ok came home and hooked the ipod up and let the radio play for 20 minutes without a problem with both red wires hooked up. I went ahead and installed the damn thing and lets hope and pray it works tomorrow when I drive it to work. Again I hooked both red wires up the one to the pac and one from the fuse box and it seems to be working fine.

Thanks everyone and I will let you know tomorrow night if it worked all day!

good luck bro, i hope it helps.

OMG what a PITA !

I now have it installed but when I have a song with alot of bass and turn up the volume the sub amps keeps dropping out for a second and then coming back on!

This is crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Any suggestions for that one.

OMG what a PITA !

I now have it installed but when I have a song with alot of bass and turn up the volume the sub amps keeps dropping out for a second and then coming back on!

 

This is crazy!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Any suggestions for that one.

Maybe the amp itself has been the problem all along, I don't have any of the problems with the same car. And close to the same set up.

I put the factory radio back in and it plays great just like it did before this.

was the bass any louder with the AVIC in there?

No its the same however I do have the loud option on low so the speakers in general are a little louder.

Did you guys ever find a good solution to this? I have a AVH-P3200BT in a 2006 Mustang GT w/ Shaker 500 and the PAC C2R-FRD1 and I'm having the same issue. I've tried running the head unit off the battery and installing the relay on the ACC and none of this helped. The issue seems to be related to the factory subs and amps. I really believe that the current draw from the factory amps at volume is somehow causing the PAC to reset and this causes the head unit to reset. When I had the relay connected to the ACC I could hear it click back on during the reset of the unit. This tells me that the PAC is either not supplying any power out on the ACC wire or is being completely reset itself. I have contacted PAC about the issue and they are working on replicating the problem so I will see what they come up with. The bass with my AVH is a lot louder than with the Shaker head unit the factory subs actually sound pretty good. I think this is because I can adjust their level and crossover point relative to the highs. So I'm that I'm pushing them harder than the factory head unit ever did and I wonder if this is causing more current draw than the system was ever designed for and it the root of the problem. Has anyone tried connecting their powering their PAC off the battery? I'm thinking about this as I already have the 14ga wire that I ran for the head unit so it would be a easy thing to do.

Could this issue becaused by an incompatibility of the output from the radio to the amp, causing the radio to rebout ?

Impedance too low, loading too much the output of the radio ?

Has anyone tried with aftermarket amps to see if it does the same thing...?

Could this issue becaused by an incompatibility of the output from the radio to the amp, causing the radio to rebout ?

 

Impedance too low, loading too much the output of the radio ?

 

Has anyone tried with aftermarket amps to see if it does the same thing...?

I wonder the same thing. I also noticed on mine that I had both the green and the purple RCAs connected. I know the purple is unused but have no clue if it goes somewhere or is just a open circuit. If it goes somewhere it may be causing feedback to the head unit. To me the issue seems related to the factory subs and amps. I disconnected the purple RCA but have not really been able to do a good test to see if the issue is fixed.

These head units do put out like 4 volts on the pre-amps maybe it's too much for the stock amps and there is some type of feedback that is causing the head unit to reboot.

For those of you having issues with the reboot when using a PAC module in a Mustang, I found this interesting thread from a Mustang Forum solving the reboot issue:

========================================================================

" After a little bit of diagnosis/trouble shooting with an engineer at PAC we found that the Shaker amps are backfeeding 12v into the C2R-FRD1 unit when at high load (we speculate this was originaly to tell the Ford HU to lower volume output).

This is causing an overvolt condition in the C2R-FRD1, the elctronics are designed to operate at 5v. So when 10+v was put into the unit the chips started to malfuniction and then shut down. The Diode keeps the voltage from backfeeding the unit,

I used a 1N4005. I think you can get these at your local Radio $hack, Anyway the diode did the trick, no more cut-outs, no more reboots!"

========================================================================

So far all poster have reported this has a valid fix for their reboot issue....

holy crap thats a crazy ideal, some one please try placing a diode inline with amp turn on wire and see if this works, the line on the diode should be pointing toward the car and away from the harness module

Keep in mind that this only apply to reboot due to playing music at high volume....

You will also note that the person that did validate the solution works for PAC in the R&D group (poster Iskwezm)

I don't know if it's permitted here, but here is the link to the original thread from the Mustang Forum:

http://mustangforums.com/forum/audio-visual-electronics/622606-06-pac-c2r-frd1-wiring-harness-help.html

Solution is on page 3...