alright bought the 930bt on ebay real cheap it did not come with the gps antenna or the rca connector harness. ( the one with the yellow mute wire.) I installed the unit and grounded the green wire and everything works fine... video plays fine at any speed, and the buttons are not greyed out. I ordered the gps antenna off ebay, pluged it in, and now once i hit a certain speed, i lose video ,and cant alter settings. is there anyway to do the bypass without the other harness? would i be able to connect a wire to the pin on the head unit where the yellow wire would connect? and then splice that into the green park brake wire, or do I have to order the 70 dollar part thanks

fixed it .... i just studied the video of the bypass..... and connected a small pin connector the to back of the headunit..... ran that wire to the green wire... problem solved

so when i bought the pioneer 930 from craigslist, it didnt have the light green wire that is required for this bypass, i have tons of extra wires just sitting in my room though, can anyone please tell me where the greenwire goes or is located, what wires are next to it? please & thank youu!

Hi, fellas! I am noob to this forum since I've never had this ICE nor have had a Pioneer deck in my cars. That being said:

I will have my x930 soon and I can't wait to do what's been talked about here. I am already all over my mind on how to do a video bypass; as soon as I get my hands on the x930. I've tried and done a vid-bp using a PAC module (on my Alpine) it was not a success. Anyhoo, that's not important because we're all about Pioneer here, right?

I commend and bow to all of you brainiacs out there:D

Cheers!

Happened to me as well. What I ended up doing was pulling back out the female part of the connector, putting a tiny bit of pressure on the pin (squeezing the opening up just a tiny bit), and reinserting. From this I surmised the the male pin on the back of the 930 was too small for the female portion of the connector (part in the plastic housing). Try not to get all macho squeezing the pin or you will have to replace it.

 

I didn't try, but it might be a good idea while having the pin out to actually test the fitting for connectivity.

THIS REALLY WORKED! (I'd been racking my brain for months trying to determine why my X930BT bypass didn't work.) If you're experiencing issues with the pop-up parking brake screen and you are confident that your wiring is correct,....simply pull the female connector of the mute wire from it's new place in the harness and place a small amount of pressure on the female connector with pliers or something making the hole just slightly smaller. Be gentle! Reinsert the female connector back into the harness. Plug (don't force) the harness back into the head unit it clicks, and viola! No parking brake screen. Best of all, I can output Netflix on the kids' monitors in the backseat while my wife and I enjoy peace and quiet or a little Smoothjazz in the front! Also, Motion Drive (99 cents) with Traffic is fantastic, and I don't have to pay $120 or some discounted introductory price for new, 1 year old maps!

For some reason I now have this pop-up parking brake screen come up atleast once a week, I am able to hit Okay and still use the options (Nav, and play video), just wondering why is it doing this now and only once a week. I remember when I got the HU installed the installer has all three wires going into a little fuse box and from there another wire going to the car ground. Can the problem be the fuse not sure why he would do it this way. I guess I should double check the connection again with the mute wire.

Also would you guys suggest to add a switch so I can manually change from bypass unit to a non bypass unit and hide the switch in-case the cops does a random check.

Great mod! Just installed the 930 in my 05 Mazda 3 with the bypass, Works perfectly, Thankyou!!!

THIS REALLY WORKED! (I'd been racking my brain for months trying to determine why my X930BT bypass didn't work.) If you're experiencing issues with the pop-up parking brake screen and you are confident that your wiring is correct,....simply pull the female connector of the mute wire from it's new place in the harness and place a small amount of pressure on the female connector with pliers or something making the hole just slightly smaller. Be gentle! Reinsert the female connector back into the harness. Plug (don't force) the harness back into the head unit it clicks, and viola! No parking brake screen. Best of all, I can output Netflix on the kids' monitors in the backseat while my wife and I enjoy peace and quiet or a little Smoothjazz in the front! Also, Motion Drive (99 cents) with Traffic is fantastic, and I don't have to pay $120 or some discounted introductory price for new, 1 year old maps!

Duane you are a LIFESAVER!!   I've been obsessing about this problem for a year and a half.  I've had the head unit out of the dash like 20 times.  I've read every post about this unit and bypass on the entire Internet and been through this thread a dozen times.  I never register on these boards, but I had to thank you for the advice.  I bet this is the solution for the majority of folks who have not had success with this bypass.  GENTLY CRIMP the mute wire connector!!  That's it!!

Now the other problem I had was that the microphone didn't work with bluetooth.  I went over every setting and couldn't find anything.  I assumed it had something to do with the bypass.  That wasn't it.  Believe it or not, the brand new unit came with a defective mic.  New microphone and we're in business.

Thanks to AVIC 411 and the kind folks that share their knowledge here!

First and foremost as a new member and user, I would like to say thanks to the community as you all have provided me with and invaluable amount of information in regards to the AVIC and their installs in autos.   Secondly, I would like to post my list of clarifications as i noticed there were a lot of questions which seemed a little confusing and issue-matic in regards to where does the wire go, which slot, and so forth.   A little about myself, I'm a Software Deployment Manager for my full-time career, and MECP Installer on the side (weekends at a Performance shop in DFW).   I have been installing 12V Solutions (as I call them) for customers for about 10 years now.   AVIC's have some personality disorders as like to call them which can wreak havoc to most DIY installers.   I love the ones I have installed and just finished installing one in my brand new 370z.  

Installed in the 370z - AVIC-X930BT , Pre-Amped out to Xtant 4.4 which powers my front Focal ISC 165 6.5" in doors. In the rear we have a modest Kicker ZX.1 Class D powering a SoloBaric L5.   Simple and clean is what we went for with this setup.  Below I will list some of the clarifications and things I noticed while installing the AVIC in this car.

Remote Lead Item - 

A.  When Tapping the Blue - Blue / White wire from the AVIC to any Nissan Antenna Adapter and also Tapping it for the Remote Lead to the Amp in the rears, you will get slight FM/AM Radio distortion and Strength issues.   Was not able to pin point, why but If i removed and created Seperate Switched Remote Turn On Leads for the Amps, this was fixed.  

       a.  Fix that I found worked  : Installed a Resistor in-line between the feed from the Blue / White to the blue - Blue White from the AVIC Rear Harness and the Aftermarket harness which fit to Nissan OEM Connector.   This Cut the interference down to the point where it was not bleeding into the antenna booster which Nissan uses to get FM/AM Reception.   150ohm is what i used.   To Do this - Cut the Remote Turn on lead from your amp in half just before the connection point of the other blue wires in back of the unit, splice in the resistor, solder and heat shrink.  VOILA!

Mute Wire - Yellow / Black - Harness Item - 

1.  There has been a lot of questions in regards to the AV harness in the rear of the AVIC for doing the Mute Wire.   Here is what i noticed as a rule of thumb when dealing with Harness that connects to the rear of the unit * TOP OF THE HARNESS is when looking at the harness down if you were standing above it looking down.  This also keeps in line with push button to release is on top.  So in this case moving forward - Top of this harness is where the release button from the UNIT is.   

3.  Mute Wire origination by OEM - When i first opened this harness out of the plastic, mute wire was on the bottom row, closest to the bottom of the entire unit.  I believe it was 3 in from the left.  

4.  The video on youtube which tells how to remove this wire and it's pin, is a great video.  It was posted earlier in this posting.   For quick annotation - Using a thin Tipped pointing pick tool - Solder Kits have one, this is what i used.   Insert into the side of the harness gently and press down, the middle of the harness will slide downwards out of the harness, this loosens the termination sleeves inside the harness.  

5.  Take a staple or a resistor wire and insert this into the small slot just above where the hole for the actual pin slides in. This is rectangle just above the bigger square holes on each wire termination.  Do this for the Yellow/Black wire, and gently pull out.  It will then slide right out - takes about 5 min tops.

6.  After you now have the entire assy. of the Yellow/ Black wire out - Move this wire to the slot just above where it was moving up a row same column.   This will make it Top ROW - 3 in from the left.  Slide it in to the hole gently and you will hear it click, its now in.  Remove your pick tool and then press with your thumb the middle pressure piece back into the harness

 Bypass Topic Item - (Inclusive of the Parking break Thoughts)

1.  In order to achieve this with no issues, there were two methods which i tested and worked.  First one , which is what I left and soldered - 

     a.  Ground From Scosche Harness  to Pioneer Ground to Light Green P. Brake Wire, to Mute wire from above (Yellow/Black).  This worked perfect. 

     b.  Ground from Schosche Harness - SEPERATE GROUND TERMINAL RINGD wire by default from Scosche Tapped to Light Green, tapped to Yellow/Black Mute Wire ( This was screw butt connector twisted together and then terminated to the chassis with ring connection)  - Worked just as good as letter a.   

     c.  Ground from Scosche Harness to Pioneer Black Ground to Yellow / Black Mute wire - Screw Cap Terminated , and then Took Light Green and tapped the Second Ground from the Scosche Harness to the chassis.   - Worked to, however at some times warning did show (inconsistent results tho)

     d.  Ground Black - Scosche to Pioneer Black Ground to Yellow / Black Mute Wire - Screw Cap Terminated , then Connected a In Line Toggle Switch to the Light Green Wire P. Brake Wire to One throw terminal of the switch , and a second wire to the ground + Ring terminal from the Scosche harness and then to the chassis using a WireTap.  - This method worked very nice and would of been my alternative should the above's not work, as it allowed me to toggle the bypass as I felt necessary.   

As of right now , this bypass has many different angles in which you can perform and apply it, all of the above I tested at different speeds and durations to ensure that they would work.   If anyone has questions, feel free to message me. 

Great Forums community.  Thanks for the plethora of information.  

I'm trying to Bypass parking break on AVIC X9310BT and there is no connection used in the A/V RCA area only the Power Supply Wires are connected to my car. Are there instructions on how to bypass? I noticed the original wires were cut and connected to box labeled C2R CHY4 and another box then to the connector wires for car. Please help!