Hello guys,

 

I know someone is gonna come back to me and be like "did you not read the earlier posts" but I am gonna ask it anyway.

 

- should I move the Mute wire over one pin and ground it or should I leave it alone and add another wire on the second pin(green wire in the picture) next to mute and ground it?

- when I receive a call the volume of the music I am playing goes down, it doesn't pause by itself. Does anyone know how to make it pause or stop the music while I am on the call, and unpause it when I disconnect the call.

 

THanks

Regardless of which choice you make its the same thing. So why make it hard?

Does anyone have a picture of what the RCA harness/mute-wire-relocation harness looks like? (before/after)  I've seen a picture in the 850 thread, but when I did the relocation, the bypass doesn't work.   I have the parking wire grounded and a relocated mute wire that is grounded, but no love.  I get the "incorrect parking wire" message once, but options still dim when the car is moving.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks,

Matt

did you move the wire or add a new one?  if you added a new one you didnt ground both did you?  you would only ground the new one and leave the original not connected to anything.  

did you move the wire or add a new one?  if you added a new one you didnt ground both did you?  you would only ground the new one and leave the original not connected to anything.  

I moved the existing mute wire to the next spot over (where the green wire is in this picture:  http://avic411.com/index.php?/gallery/image/218-avic-z150-interlock-bypass/) 

I'm wondering if

A-  I have it in the wrong location (doesn't seem likely)

B-  The new 150 firmware uses additional methods for detecting motion (VSS)?

I miss the old days of grounding the parking brake

Just to update, my z150 allows video when I'm in Park.  As soon as I switch to Drive, the video goes off with the warning.  I have a Metra Onstar/Bose interface in my truck which has a wire for "parking brake lead".  The only thing I can figure out is the Metra interface can tell whether the vehicle is parked and sends the appropriate signal to the radio.

 

What I don't understand is what type of signal the Metra interface is sending the z150?  Is it a simple ground?  Is it a pulse?  How would the Metra interface know what aftermarket radio is connected and which signal to send?  It's just strange that I never have to push the parking brake at all to get video to show.  Only have to the put the vehicle in Park.

 

I may disassemble that one lead tonight and test with a meter to see what signal is being sent when the vehicle goes from Drive to Park, unlocking the z150.

I haven't tried video in my system yet, but for many of the functions, they're locked out as soon as I start moving, I'm supposing from the parking brake wire from the Axxess. The head unit is also getting a signal from the vehicle speed sensor which would be a pulse. The shifter position doesn't seem to make a difference.

There is a wire that goes from the Axxess unit to the head unit that is supposed to be reverse sense. I suppose one quiet day I'll grab a Tech II from work and watch what's actually going on.

Whats going on is you have an improper bypass. The speed sensor has nothing to do with it.

I haven't tried video in my system yet, but for many of the functions, they're locked out as soon as I start moving, I'm supposing from the parking brake wire from the Axxess. The head unit is also getting a signal from the vehicle speed sensor which would be a pulse. The shifter position doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

There is a wire that goes from the Axxess unit to the head unit that is supposed to be reverse sense. I suppose one quiet day I'll grab a Tech II from work and watch what's actually going on.

Whats going on is you have an improper bypass. The speed sensor has nothing to do with it.

And don't run the PB wire to the Axxess. Ground it.

Wsup everybody - noob here.

After installing this thing, I must say - I'm pretty pissed. I replaced my 5/6 year old JVC KW-NX7000 with this unit strictly for the iPhone 5 compatability. I figured everything else would just... 'work'. Silly me. I have two rear monitors and a PS3 that worked perfectly fine with my old HU, with no special settings necessary. Now, after installing the Z150 it took forever just for me to verify that the 'video out' function actually worked. I thought I received a dead unit. Talk about being 'finnicky' - this thing has a setting for every fricken thing!

Anywho - while troubleshooting, I discovered something that may be of use to some of you guys. While installing, I tried just jamming a wire into the blank slot for the bypass and it didn't work. So this morning while troubleshooting, I had everything connected and the vehicle on, but parked. While moving the radio around to check connections I got the 'not while vehicle in motion' message. This damn thing has a fricken MOTION DETECTOR!! WTF!!! Seriously? The vehicle was parked inside my garage - no vehicle movement whatsoever. Just wiggling the radio was enough to get that message.

So I guess the hack necessary is to somehow disable the motion detector. So grounding the open port does that? I wish someone knew how to just yank the damn motion detector out.

I don't want to get off topic talking about my frustrations with the settings to display video on the rear monitors, but that whole motion detector thing might help someone.

Correction - it isn't a motion detector, it's a compass. I went back out and secured my jammed in wire better and moved the radio around to see if I'd get the message. Well, I didn't get the message but when I put it on the map, the vehicle direction changed as I moved the radio.

I jammed the wire 'properly' (if that makes any sense) and went for a short drive. Compass still works, no lockout message.

For anyone that wants to jam a wire in instead of moving the mute, look at the front of the wire harness (the side that plugs into the head unit) and you should be able to see the wire all the way in the front, the same as the pins that are in the harness. If you can't see the wire you're jamming in, it isn't being inserted far enough. Don't fold the wire over (my first mistake) it will be too thick to be inserted far enough to make contact once connected. A wire similar in size to the wire in the harness with the tip stripped, insterted will go in far enough. After that, I zip tied it to the mute wire to hold it there.

Now if I can figure out the fricken issue with playing video from my phone to the rear monitors...

Glad you figured out the bypass. The sensors are similar to those in a smart phone (accelerometer, gyroscope, magnetometeror AKA digital compass), as well as the 3D slope (up or down angle). Some of these sensors take time to calibrate after installation. They are used for dead-reckoning when the unit has yet to (or lost) locks on the sateliltes. None of them have anything to do with the bypass working. However, moving the unit around might fool the unit into thinking the vehivle is moving. As you found out, moving the unit can loosen an improperly connected wire. Jamming a wire into the opening has never been a recommended way for a reliable connection. You might get lucky. You might not.

Looing for a little help, hoping it isn't off topic, but deals with this issue.  Upgraded my f90bt to the z150bh, I was trying to pull the mute pin and pulled the wire without the pin.  Anyone know where I can get a pin to reconnect this?  I cannot get the pin out no matter how hard I try. Would a stereo shop carry one. 

I had the same problem. I stuck a striped wire into the slot, far enough to contact the pin of the radio and then crazy glued it in place. I haven't had a problem in the two months since I installed it.

I had the same problem. I stuck a striped wire into the slot, far enough to contact the pin of the radio and then crazy glued it in place. I haven't had a problem in the two months since I installed it.

Thanks, I tried just sticking it in there last night and got the improper wiring screen so I just pulled it and will attempt some other day.  I only have the parking brake grounded right now and got the parking brake wiring warning once so far.  Wish this was as easy as the f90 was. 

Edit:  So I "jammed" a wire in there, didn't glue it, but brought it out the small opening as I saw in a picture somewhere in this thread.  Seems to have worked as I didn't get the lock out warning screen.  Also, for anyone, make sure you ground directly to the chassis as grounding to the harness ground doesn't seem to work as well. 

I have a Z150 on the way so I read this whole thread and I'm still not totally sure I know what is going on. Is it move the mute wire and ground the parking brake? Which is the same as it is with my Z2? The best would be if I could just leave my harness and everything else from the Z2 in the car and just plug the 150 in, wishful thinking I guess but It'd be nice.

Hi guys.....

Brand new to this forum, just signed up. I have the z150 and am having problems with this bypass technique. I have the parking brake wire grounded (unit says it is "on" in the connection status screen), have moved the mute wire over 1 slot and have it grounded at the same place as the parking brake wire. I also have my VSS wire hooked up correctly as stated by the "connection status" screen. The unit will not bypass and can not access functions as vehicle is moving.

I have also tried just a peice of wire stuck in the slot coming all the way through the molex connector and I get the same result - unit will not bypass.

Seems  like this is a "hit" or "miss" depending how lucky you are.....

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,

Toys

Hi guys.....

 

Brand new to this forum, just signed up. I have the z150 and am having problems with this bypass technique. I have the parking brake wire grounded (unit says it is "on" in the connection status screen), have moved the mute wire over 1 slot and have it grounded at the same place as the parking brake wire. I also have my VSS wire hooked up correctly as stated by the "connection status" screen. The unit will not bypass and can not access functions as vehicle is moving.

 

I have also tried just a peice of wire stuck in the slot coming all the way through the molex connector and I get the same result - unit will not bypass.

 

Seems  like this is a "hit" or "miss" depending how lucky you are.....

 

Any thoughts or suggestions?

Thanks,

Toys

Everyone I know who has followed the instructions correctly has run into no problems.

As it's been stated numerous times throughout this entire thread- grounding the parking brake is completely unnecessary. I'd say triple check all your wiring. 

so I have run into the same problem as toys, if I disconnect the pb wire from ground it automatically turns the video off, ive reset etc and it works then it shuts off.  Im ready to get rid of this thing

so I just went and messed around with the deck some more, pulled the pin out and crimped the end better, plugged it back in and now its working perfect.  Lets hope it stays this way now

whats up guys? I just got the Z150bh in and I've read this thread, watched the videos, and I've decided to just spend the $10 on the ridiculously overpriced wire on amazon... lol, but at least this way I don't have to worry about breaking the mute wire or super gluing anything or ghetto rigging it so it doesn't fall out or anything like that. I know where to shove this new wire in my question is, since there was never a REAL way to do this and this mod came off of a different unit originally...

How's it holding up for you guys? any problems for anyone that did it right after all these months?

I know I'm going to run a seperate ground to the chassis for the E-brake, that seemed to have a better response from what I read.

I am curious as to the manual saying to hook it up to the "power" side of the e-brake... kinda wanna shove a multimeter in there and see if theres some kind of active signal or if it's just a dead ground. just an idea I don;t know if i'll persue it or not.

EDIT: the tool was a pos, lol, I used a jewelry flathead screwdriver to pop the harness open, but the wire is in there now secure as fawk. Still worth the $10 (to me) lol.

Installed, got the warning screen 2x so far. Lol the warning screen is more hazardous than having video availability while driving! It popped up when I was looking at the GPS for my next turn and I almost missed the turn... Thanks pioneer... Lol wtf. So did anyone get locked out bc of this or no? If not I'm not really gonna care much.

I'm reading above and it looks to me like the video capabilities work if you just ground the e-brake wire, but you get the warning, and if you correctly ground the e-brake wire AND the moved or added "mute" wire then you get no warning. True or false?

False!!!

ok, good, so did anyone get locked out at all because of this? Is there a way to make it go away or should I not care about it?

EDIT: found out it goes away on its own.

According to eBay the below link has a harness that supposedly works, just displays the "Nag" screen like others have posted..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=151018828641&item=151018828641&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

Just to follow up, I've had both the parking brake wire and the bypass pin grounded since April. I had a few "parking brake wire is incorrectly installed" errors during the first couple weeks but it still let me change nav settings on the go, view video, etc. For months since, it's been perfect, no errors.

…until last week. I got the error message again. It happened when I loaded up a DVD disc. I hadn't used the DVD slot since June or so. I had only been using SD cards with videos on them. Just weird that using the DVD slot after many months awoke the error message again.

During all of this time, the bypass always worked. I never wasn't able to view video, change nav settings, etc. Just thought I would share. I have used the DVD slot again since that happened with no errors.